BCWAS Merlot Blind Tasting

For the past several years the BC Wine Appreciation Society has hosted an annual double-blind varietal tasting, beginning with Syrah in 2013, and in latter years featuring Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Having recently taken over as Society Cellarmaster I was given the task of organizing this year’s tasting, and settled on long-suffering Merlot. After taking a beating following the release of the film Sideways in 2004, unfairly maligned Merlot deserves to be championed more often, particularly given its standing as BC’s most-planted red grape. I looked forward to the challenge of showing off some top local examples.

I was limited to only eight wines given the physical constraints of our venue, fewer than years past, so it was important to ensure variety and avoid overlap. I focused on regional distribution alongside important criteria such as quality and availability. Using what was on hand in the Society cellar allowed for a selection of vintages from 2012-2015, while geographic range from Naramata through Osoyoos and on to Keremeos yielded sufficient diversity. While I longed for some of the exclusive icons from LaStella or Checkmate, price was another consideration, and so the wines remained within the $27-$40 range. Cost doesn’t always predict quality however, so prominent award-winners were in the mix to see how they stacked up. The wines were all poured blind, and served blind in the following randomized order:

Painted Rock 2012: The tasting’s oldest wine, coming from professional storage in the BCWAS cellar, it’s long since sold out, as the 2014 is currently available at the winery. The Merlot block on the west-facing Skaha Bench estate vineyard was harvested October 23, and the grapes were later aged for 18 months in 50% new French oak before just over 1,000 cases were bottled.

Stag’s Hollow 2014 Renaissance: The winery’s reserve tier Merlot was harvested from the Okanagan Falls home vineyard on October 27, before aging in 50% new French oak for 15 months. This wine was one of two minor blends in the tasting, having incorporated 10% Cabernet Sauvignon for additional complexity, before bottling of just 225 cases. A Gold Medal at the 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships made it one to watch.

Cassini 2013 “Nobilus”: Bursting with accolades, Cassini’s example of Golden Mile Bench Merlot offered high expectations. The wine had returned a Double Gold (Best of Category) at the 2016 All Canadian Wine Championships, and a prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award last summer. Adrian Cassini entrusted his grapes to 100% new French oak for two years after harvest in the last week of October, releasing only 187 cases in the fall of 2017.

Corcelettes 2015: From the young winery’s relatively new home vineyard on the Keremeos Upper Bench, rare own-rooted vinifera vines were harvested early in September during this hot vintage. The grapes spent 16 months in a mix of French and American oak before 322 cases were released quite recently. At only $27 it was also the least expensive wine in the tasting.

Poplar Grove 2014: Just north of the winery location at the south end of the Naramata Bench are the pair of neighbouring vineyards that yielded a thousand cases of this local favourite. The wine is actually a four-grape blend, harvested over a month-long period starting in early October: 88% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. Grapes were aged in used French oak (second- to fourth-fill) for 21 months.

Burrowing Owl 2014: Anchoring the winery’s portfolio means 6,500 cases of this money-maker come from expansive southern Okanagan vineyards. The Black Sage Bench home vineyard and another on the Osoyoos East Bench contributed grapes harvested over two weeks mid-October. Burrowing Owl’s trademark varied elevage spread the grapes across 65% French, 18% American, 10% Hungarian, and 7% Russian oak, one quarter of it in new barrels.

Church & State 2013: Another Black Sage Bench example, but this time from lower in altitude closer to the valley floor. The Coyote Bowl and Rattlesnake Vineyards adjacent to the winery were harvested October 23, before 22 months of aging in one third new French oak. Just 275 cases came about, and it’s long since been supplanted by the present 2015 vintage for sale.

Van Westen 2014 “Vivre la Vie”: Rob Van Westen’s family vineyards can be found at the northern end of the Naramata Bench. The three small blocks that formed this wine were harvested from October 4-19, and spent 21 months in 25% new French oak before bottling of a mere 148 cases. The 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships awarded Double Gold to mark this bottle as category leader in the premium Merlot tier.

The fifty-plus participants at the sold-out tasting were all asked to rank order the eight wines on anonymous ballots, which I then tabulated using a Borda-count system (for all the voting-method geeks out there) to yield the overall crowd favourites. The clear champions emerged on top in short order, led by Cassini, Van Westen, and Burrowing Owl. The next level was dominated by Corcelettes, Painted Rock, and Poplar Grove, and demonstrating that vintage certainly was not a reliable predictor of appeal, given the full four-year range in that cluster.

Unfortunately, a couple of the wines seemed to have suffered from either faulty bottles or tainted stemware, as reports of off flavours harmed the chances of both Church & State and Stag’s Hollow, relegating them to the rear. My own servings seemed to have avoided any problematic bottles or glasses, as both Church & State and Stag’s Hollow found favour in my notes. Served second, Stag’s Hollow yielded a toasty, leathery nose with palate of blackberries and a pucker on the finish. Church & State, one of the older wines, offered a dusty nose before an aggressive palate of chewy tannins and tart fruit that finished long. It’s truly a shame some glitches may have prevented these two wines from achieving their potential.

The third wine served, top-ranked Cassini, made a particular impression – my notes reference the rich, creamy texture and profile of baked fruit and vanilla. Van Westen showed the winery’s trademark age-worthy tannins, with smoky hints but a well-balanced acidity that brought juicy fruit to the forefront. Burrowing Owl offered significant caramelization on the nose and palate – easy to like – with an accessible texture and ripe southern Okanagan fruit. Corcelettes revealed the freshness of youth, with a range of berry fruit flavours and hints of menthol, pleasantly elegant given the price point. Painted Rock’s Merlot always takes longest of John Skinner’s reds to come around, and even with the benefit of age it was still tight, showing floral character on the nose in time, while ripe, dark berries emerged on the palate. Poplar Grove belied its relative youth, presenting a surprisingly smooth palate of quintessential blueberry, along with deceptive spices that had me guessing Similkameen.

The entire experience was enlightening in the way that blind tastings so often are, and guests seemed quite pleased with the wines and information on offer. I myself was grateful my selections went over so well, and look forward to assembling future tastings of new varieties (or even blends). Thank you to the members of the BC Wine Appreciation Society for so diligently tasting and rating these wines – I hope you had as much fun as I did!

Collectibles: February 2018

In years past the month of the Vancouver International Wine Festival would be my shopping bonanza for both international and domestic bottles. Now, having significantly increased the frequency of my visits to tasting rooms in person, I no longer need to rely as heavily on the Festival store to fill my cellar with BC’s bounty. The Festival comes at an odd time of year, before most local wineries have bottled new vintages, so it can be a time to find the last reserves of some (saved for the Festival), or alternatively, advance access to those yet to be released. Festival purchases and a few recent winter treats make up this month’s collectibles.

Quails’ Gate 2016 Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir: I can often rely on the Stewart family to bring out the big guns for VIWF, and the fact they previewed this upcoming vintage of the winery’s flagship red speaks volumes. Not even mentioned yet online, the 2016 was being poured and purchased in the Festival tasting room, showing off a remarkably approachable profile at this young age. The highly expressive nose and rich palate were balanced and fresh, and will no doubt age well for many years, but made for easy enjoyment well before the official winery release. Winemaker Nikki Callaway brought in ideal West Kelowna fruit from an exceptional growing season to assemble 1,100 cases after ten months in French oak. The Stewart Family Reserve is a consistent benchmark for rich, New World Pinot Noir in BC. VIWF Store $60

Van Westen 2016 “VD” Pinot Noir: Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Rob Van Westen’s petite Pinot project offers a much less well known example, and mightily hard to find at that. Repeat customers get first notification before Rob spends a mid-winter week stocking store shelves and hand-delivering new releases while the vines slumber. The good news is this niche collaboration between Rob and veteran winemaker Tom DiBello has grown in quantity by 25% since last year, now reaching a grand total of 105 cases. The grapes come from the Granite Ridge vineyard on the Naramata Bench, planted to the meaty Pommard clone, and aged nine months in French oak. The generous vintage has yielded another obliging bottle, with softly textured, ripe tannins atop the underlying structure. It may be tempting to crack that screwtop in the short term but here’s another good cellar candidate for those with patience. Winery Direct $40

SpierHead 2016 Cuvée Pinot Noir: The East Kelowna winery on Spiers Road may be changing their name to Spearhead for the sake of convenience but the only change to the wine is it keeps getting better. Supervised by new General Manager Grant Stanley (via Quails’ Gate and 50th Parallel), the growing portfolio holds five Pinot Noir (six if counting the White Pinot) at present, with the Cuvée coming out on top. While Van Westen makes the exception for Pinot, Spearhead is all in on the variety, taking advantage of their ideal estate terroir and that of trusted partners. Cuvée 2016 is a 400 case blend of the best barrels from four clones (115, 667, 828, Pommard) following ten months in French oak. John Schreiner noted the boldness of intense, even jammy fruit flavours in January, while the GismondiOnWine team offered 90+ points (and recommended three years in the cellar) just last week. Winery Direct $44

LaStella 2014 Allegretto Merlot: A tiny “Pie Franco” logo on the label provides a hint of this wine’s special status. The single vineyard Merlot that sits just below the flagship Maestoso in LaStella’s portfolio is planted on its own rootstock in high drainage white silica sand. This “pie franco” accomplishment is rare in a global industry dominated by grafted vines seeking to escape the ravages of phylloxerae. The estate Stagg’s Vineyard on the west bench of south Osoyoos has just over four acres of Merlot (alongside four more of Syrah), and provided for 275 cases in 2014, resulting in a wine reserved exclusively for Club members. The winery claims a certain purity in flavour is obtained from these own-rooted vines, offering a taste of Merlot in its most authentic form. Winery Direct $69

Painted Rock 2015 Syrah: With their sole white wine (Chardonnay) sold out, the Painted Rock team placed particular emphasis on their several superb reds available at the VIWF. The Syrah from the Skinner family’s Skaha Bench estate vineyard south of Penticton has been a favourite in my household for many years. The effects of a warm vintage are apparent in what Anthony Gismondi describes as a “hedonistic nature” sure to find many fans despite a bit less complexity than normal. Liam Carrier’s 92-point review on IconScores offers an intriguing description of blood orange, mint, and vanilla in a “mind-blowingly intense” wine worthy of supplanting the winery’s premier Red Icon. Fortunately 1,700 cases were produced, after 18 months in 30% new French oak, giving many a chance to try it for themselves and be the judge. VIWF Store $46

Burrowing Owl 2014 Meritage: In an age where every winery has a flagship red with a proprietary name Burrowing Owl has stayed with good old fashioned Meritage – straightforward and descriptive. A bottle goes into my vertical collection each year, making for a nice exploration of the vintage at one of the South Okanagan’s most noteworthy wineries. The blend of 32% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, and 11% Petit Verdot was bottled in August 2016, after 21 months in oak (18 months varietally independent), three quarters French. A near endless stream of compliments have come from the WineAlign judging team, yet despite unanimous 90+ point scores the same team awarded a moderate Silver medal at the 2017 National Wine Awards – an ode, perhaps, to the uncertainties of competition. Winery Direct $50

Collectibles: January 2018

The hectic holiday season is behind us but there are plenty of stellar gift-worthy wines still on hand – and a gift to oneself is perfectly legitimate. Even though the tasting rooms in wine country are closed for the season, online stores are open year-round, plus the many fine wine retailers around home are always happy to help the cause. In the case of one collectible, it’s exclusively available at retail, as Chris Carson is nearly too busy making wine to sell it! This month’s selection features several marvellous, under-the-radar examples that will find a comfortable home in my cellar, in many cases building on multi-year verticals as I find myself coming back for another vintage.

Carson 2015 Pinot Noir: For the past decade, the highly respected Pinot Noir of Meyer Family Vineyards has been ushered into bottle by the talented Chris Carson, who also produces his own “garagiste” wine with very little fanfare. A twenty-year-old 1.5 acre block of Clone 115 on the Naramata Bench yields a mere couple hundred cases that Carson vinifies at Meyer’s Okanagan Falls winery. The winemaking is described as “very traditional” and includes an indigenous yeast ferment followed by 11 months aging in one-third new French oak. Every year a sample bottle makes its way to Anthony Gismondi, who bestowed another 90+ score for the third year running in October: Carson’s “hedonistic” style serves up “juicy, red fruit with a savoury, spicy undercurrent.” Marquis Wine Cellars $50

Quails’ Gate 2015 Syrah “The Boswell”: Four years after introduction as a (one-time) special edition anniversary series wine, Syrah has grown to become a notable component of the Burgundian-focused portfolio at Quails’ Gate. The Northern-Rhone-styled wine represents a rarity in that it hails from estate vineyards in West Kelowna, in contrast to the extensive plantings of Syrah found in the South Okanagan. Outsider status notwithstanding, The Boswell continues to garner serious accolades every year: Anthony Gismondi and Treve Ring had nothing but praise in October and November, John Schreiner conveyed his approval with 93-points, and WineAlign’s David Lawrason was similarly impressed with the perfectly ripened fruit and impressive focus. After working through the last of the (equally good) 2014 the winery is finally ready to release the 580 cases bottled last June following 18 months in French oak. Winery Direct $63

Corcelettes 2015 Menhir: Named after marker stones found on the Baessler family’s original farm in Switzerland, the reasonably-priced flagship at Corcelettes eschews the typical Bordeaux blends for Cabernet-Syrah. The components hover around the same proportions annually, coming in at 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah in 2015, mellowed for 16 months in French oak puncheons, to yield just 145 cases. Previous vintages were sourced from the winery’s original Middle Bench Vineyard in Keremeos, but since taking over the former Herder property on Upper Bench Road, the new home vineyard provides fruit from up against the sun-baked hills. John Schreiner had an advance taste in September and confirmed it remains a “round and generous wine” worthy of 93 points. Winery Direct $35

Painted Rock 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon: One could say that every vintage of John Skinner’s Cabernet since that first Lieutenant Governor’s Award-winning 2007 has been sold out upon bottling. Ironically the winery’s recently introduced varietal Cabernet Franc is arguably more noteworthy, but, Sauv still sells. That’s not to say the Sauvignon is unworthy of the attention - this is one of the region’s finest, must-have versions for collectors - it’s just hard to find outside the winery! Production only reached 328 cases in 2015, after 18 months in 30% new French oak, and while some additional rows were recently planted, those younger grapes are going into the exciting new Syrah-Cabernet. The red hot 2015 sunshine seasoned this vintage with “savoury, black cherry fruit and warm, brown spicing,” in the words of Anthony Gismondi: his 90-point review makes the case for patience however – if you can find a bottle hold on for even greater rewards in 2022. Winery Direct $40

LaStella 2014 La Sophia Cabernet Sauvignon: Painted Rock’s Cabernet is prevalent compared to the mere three barrels from LaStella in 2014. Just 75 cases are available from this excellent vintage, harvested from the famed U2 block of Inkameep Vineyard in the north end of the Black Sage Bench. Like the winery’s Maestoso Merlot, this super-premium bottle comes with a price to match, reflecting both the work that goes into it, and the wine’s status and prestige – at least the price slows down sales to give collectors a chance! Having tasted past vintages of La Sophia I’m willing to splurge for a bottle of this deliciously rich but focused wine; the winery suggests it “draws a comparison to the great Cabernets from Washington State rather than the plusher and fatter examples from Napa Valley.” Winery Direct $103

Blind Creek Collective 2014 Consensus: After just one year the Similkameen project of Road 13 and partners has already been forced to rebrand when their original name, “The Similkameen Collective” fell afoul of regulatory authorities (appellation names apparently can’t be part of wine names). The change makes the inaugural vintage of their Bordeaux blend a collectible aberration, but for 2014 the name serves to better reflects the site anyway. The 100-acre Blind Creek Vineyard in Cawston has contributed stellar grapes to many of Road 13’s award-winning wines (and those of other wineries across BC). Consensus brings together 148 cases of 36% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec, recently bottled after 36-months in French oak. Seeing as BCC has next to no web presence and the premium-priced wines are currently sold on the side in the Road 13 tasting room, Consensus makes for the ultimate insider collectible. Winery Direct $60

Collectibles: December 2017

There’s no doubt that visiting BC wine country in the winter is a touch more challenging – every route from the coast takes you through remote mountain passes with threatening weather conditions. After an uncommonly harrowing journey, my safe arrival in Osoyoos over the holidays facilitated some acquisitions of the year’s final new releases. Few wineries remain open throughout the season, but the number is growing as more people enjoy the opportunity to witness a region transformed; and there’s always new wines to be had! While the temptation may be present to crack open some of these hefty red rarities, further time in the cellar will yield dividends to enjoy for many winters to come.

Burrowing Owl 2015 Cabernet Franc: Just released, this ever-so-youthful wine has big shoes to fill, as the preceding vintage received a Lt. Governor’s Award just this summer, the second one for Burrowing Owl’s Franc in just five years. The winery seems quite pleased with the vintage, calling it “a grape grower’s dream come true,” leading up to harvest in the latter half of October, before the wine spent 18 months aging. Barrels were three quarters French oak, with the balance American and Hungarian, slightly more than one third of it new or one-year-old. I intend to age mine further into the next decade and allow maturity to better express the complex profile, elements of which are touched on by WineAlign Judge Michael Godel in his 91-point review. Time will mellow “enough wood spice to smoke a shoulder,” and provide elbow room for the lengthy, expressive black currant, tobacco, and pepper. Winery Direct $33

C.C. Jentsch 2015 Small Lot Malbec: There are few (but growing numbers of) varietal Malbec from BC, and those that exist are always small lot productions, seeing as most grapes are incorporated into Bordeaux-style blends. The third vintage from Chris Jentsch and his talented Winemaker Amber Pratt continues their highly successful practice of reserving a few precious barrels to bottle independently, and they managed to eek out 100 cases in 2015 (double that of the inaugural 2013). Fruit was sourced from Jentsch’s Golden Mile vineyard near Road 13 and the winery home vineyard at Testalinden Creek, aged in American and Hungarian oak for 16 months. The Golden Mile property was sold this year however, so the challenge ahead will be to maintain sufficient production quantities given the growing demand. The wine has already racked up a pair of Gold medals in competition from both Intervin and this fall’s BC Wine Awards. Winery Direct $57

Le Vieux Pin 2014 Equinoxe Syrah: Recent releases seem dominated by the 2015 vintage, but there still exist a small proportion of bottle-aged earlier wines. The super-premium, icon wine at Le Vieux Pin experienced generous aging in French oak barrels and puncheons, and then in bottle, before its recent release on the cusp of 2018. More than half the oak was new, but the blend of low-yield Black Sage Bench and Osoyoos East Bench fruit can handle it with ease, especially from such a fine vintage. With barely two tons per acre harvested, only 242 cases were produced, but some of the country’s top critics have already tried it out to great acclaim. At WineAlign numerous 94-point scores sing praises for the wine’s elegance and outstanding length, with Michael Godel finding texture and acidity so balanced as to render it “peerless” in stature amongst BC Syrah. Winery Direct $103

Clos du Soleil 2014 Signature: Club members received first crack at Winemaker Michael Clark’s newest flagship in their autumn equinox shipment. Grapes from the Keremeos home vineyard and elsewhere in the Similkameen were aged 17 months in French oak, and the best 29 barrels were selected to produce 725 cases, blending equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 14% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. Signature has established itself in relatively short order as one of BC’s finest red blends, while still under the radar compared to cult wines of the Okanagan. Newly reviewed this month by Anthony Gismondi & Treve Ring, this vintage marks the third in a row to receive 92-points of commendation from GismondiOnWine, where it’s said to possess “elegance and authenticity throughout, with surprising depth at this youthful age.” Winery Direct $45

Moon Curser 2015 Dead of Night: Although several of this adventurous Osoyoos winery’s exclusive reds are presently sold out, the remainder have much to offer, chief among them being the newest vintage of a Syrah/Tannat blend found nowhere else in Canada. The hot and heavy 2015 season yielded Tannat at an impressive 25 Brix, but Proprietor Chris Tolley is quick to reassure fans it still retains bright acidity. The freshness found in a potentially brawny red is something noted by Anthony Gismondi, in his 90-point November review that found “much more elegance than we are used to here.” The smoky summer and subsequent disease pressure led Chris to drop fruit and aggressively thin the canopy, so production quantities are actually slightly decreased, with 317 cases available after 14 months in French and Hungarian oak, about one quarter new. The recent Great Northwest Invitational awarded two of BC’s sixteen Gold medals to Moon Curser, for Dolcetto 2016 and Dead of Night 2015. Winery Direct $43

Quails’ Gate 2015 The Connemara: It’s starting to look like I’ll have to begin a new vertical collection, as the second vintage of this new icon red fashions itself a permanent spot in the Quails’ Gate portfolio. Although best known for Burgundian varieties, Quails’ Gate has been delving into a broader spectrum of reds with earnest since Bordeaux-trained Nikki Callaway took over winemaking duties in 2013. The inaugural Connemara 2014 received a Gold medal at the National Wine Awards this summer, although the judging team had a taste of 2015 just last month. The blend has changed to favour Cabernet Franc with 40%, supported by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal proportions, all aged for 18 months in French oak, but awaiting another decade in bottle. John Schreiner suggested just that while complimenting the wine’s “exceptional polish and elegance” in his 94-point review, alongside admiration for Nikki’s other 2015 reds. Winery Direct $69

Painted Rock 2015 Red Icon: Winery owner John Skinner could probably sit back and let his highly successful wine sell itself at this point, but he isn’t one to rest on his laurels. The newest release of Painted Rock’s flagship blend has already been distributed for wide review, and well publicized. Mid-November the WineAlign team looks to have shared a bottle, with the resulting reviews coming to the same effusive conclusion in praise of the wine’s intense and quintessentially BC character: “there is a brightness and generosity here missing in many Canadian reds” says David Lawrason. Having settled on 30% new French oak, John and his team managed to push out a generous 1,500 cases from 2015, following a blend they’ve established with Merlot (45%) and Cabernet Franc (24%) in the lead, joined this year by 11% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot, and a mere 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t let the record-high quantity fool you, as the Icon easily sells out every year given the rock-solid track record it’s assembled. Winery Direct $55

Collectibles: October 2017

A crush of fall club orders and some recent winery visits offered more than enough candidates for the cellar this month. These collectibles include some iconic BC blends and two pairs of classic varietals, in quantities ranging from petite to prodigious. Some will no doubt prove supremely challenging to track down outside their home range, showing once again the necessity of going straight to the source when seeking out the most intriguing bottles. With harvest underway and all hands on deck at this time of year, sales can take a backseat, meaning winery websites aren’t updated and rare new vintages are sometimes released with little fanfare. It’s up to aficionados to do the legwork in tracking down the best new drops.

Cassini 2014 Cabernet Franc: I optimistically stopped by Cassini’s road-side tasting room outside Oliver just as this gorgeous Cabernet Franc was being released and opened for tasting. The rich, purple-fruited nose carried into an equally intense palate showing fine ripe tannins, juicy acidity, and lip-smacking milk chocolate – a fine follow-up to the Gold-medal-winning 2013. Even after tasting and purchasing, I could still taste the extra long finish minutes after departing! Like previous vintages the fruit comes from the west-side Bella Vineyard, and maintains the same production of about 300 cases, which include the addition of 5% Merlot. Adrian Cassini likes to age his reds a bit longer than most, so two full years in new oak (80% French) is the go-to strategy in this case; but of course it can easily mature in bottle for a few more years, just as mine will. Winery Direct $40

Van Westen 2014 Vivre La Vie Merlot: Although the portfolio of wines crafted by Rob Van Westen have expanded over time, small production quantities are still the norm from his rustic Naramata winery. Several different small vineyards enable him to obtain the right varieties from suitable terroir, allowing for rich Merlot like the full-bodied “Vivre La Vie”, already almost sold out. Just 148 cases were bottled, but even before the late summer release the wine took home Double Gold/Best of Category honours at the spring All Canadian Wine Championships. Later in the summer, judges at the National Wine Awards recognized a “textbook Merlot” when delivering a high Silver medal score. The firmly structured tannins and toasty oak influence will benefit from time in bottle – Rob’s reds are consistently prime cellar candidates. Don’t miss the mere 77 cases of 2014 Cabernet Franc (“Vulture”) that were released last month as well, to which the All Canadians awarded another Gold. Winery Direct $30

Painted Rock 2015 Cabernet Franc: John Skinner’s Skaha Bench winery has developed an admirable, focused portfolio of red wines (plus a dynamite Chardonnay), but the recent addition of small lot varietal Cabernet Franc is turning heads even further. The stately Red Icon flagship and cult collectible Cabernet Sauvignon retain their status, but it’s about Franc that John is most excited. Now in it’s third vintage, the Franc – plus even smaller lots (I.e., 150 cases) of Malbec and new Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon – is made possible as the mature vineyards now yield sufficient fruit after blending the Icon. Revered consultant Alain Sutre is equally thrilled about Cabernet Franc, suggesting it is this variety above others in which Painted Rock will make a mark internationally. As the winery is quick to point out, Decanter magazine has already featured the first vintages no less than thrice, and they’re only getting better each year as experience brings finesse. Winery Direct $52

Road 13 2013 5th Element: Restraint from Road 13 means the flagship red blend from the 2013 vintage was only recently released, offered to members of Club 13 as part of their autumn shipment. Adding a bottle from the 852 cases produced fleshes out my six-year vertical, starting in 2007 (as no 2008 was produced), and showing the entertaining label changes over the years. The proprietary blend is intended to combine the traditional Bordeaux reds with stellar Syrah – 18% in this case, added to 45% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Nearly two thirds of the grapes originate from the extraordinary Blind Creek Vineyard in Cawston, with the remainder grown at the home vineyard on the Golden Mile. The structured 2012 received Gold at this year’s National Wine Awards, but the newest vintage is more approachable in its youth: a ripe, stewed palate and long rich finish make it hard to justify cellaring but it certainly won’t hurt in the medium term. Winery Direct $49

LaStella 2014 Maestoso: I have to admit I’m late to the party, as this vintage is already sold out, but don’t let that discourage you from scouring retail shelves – I certainly would! The flagship “jewel-in-the-crown” from Osoyoos-based LaStella is the monumental Merlot on which the winery admits, “no expense is spared.” Just 217 cases were produced from Osoyoos Lake district and (11%) Golden Mile fruit that spent 18 months in French oak, one third new and half on its second fill. While admiring the dense structure and spicy fruit, Anthony Gismondi offered this vintage his highest score yet with 93 points. Another 91 points of praise came from co-author Treve Ring, herself already eager to cellar and try again in five years. At WineAlign, a pair of 92-point scores this spring helped to remind readers Maestoso is “one of the top Merlots in the country to be sure.” Winery Direct $103

Laughing Stock 2015 Portfolio: The benchmark red blend from Laughing Stock is rightfully one of BC’s most well-known cult wines, and the annual October release is cause for celebration. As usual, members of the Preferred Share Wine Club get priority, so I knew to expect a small allotment in my mixed case. Pleasantly surprising me were a full three bottles, allowing an early peek at one I shared with Valerie Stride from Demystified Vine. We were mightily impressed with the complex profile and silky texture belying the wine’s youth; smelling cedar, blackberry, vanilla, and dark chocolate before more striking blackberry flavours accompanied by plum, dark cherry, and hints of white pepper. My remaining two bottles are set for the cellar and a growing vertical, but honestly it’s very inviting at present. Fortunately, a full 2,500 cases were produced, but don’t expect it to last particularly long, especially not with the holiday gift-giving season approaching. Winery Direct $52

Seven Stones 2014 The Legend: George Hansen’s Cabernet-heavy blend from the south Similkameen Valley comes with significant aging potential, and the newest vintage continues construction on another vertical. Usually about half Cabernet Sauvignon, this year it’s 50% on the dot, with another 30% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, and 8% Cabernet Franc, from the cellar’s best barrels. Unlike the larger quantities of very nice Meritage George puts out after lengthier bottle aging, his flagship red is released to loyal followers almost immediately, with the expectation they have their own self-control. It won’t sell out too fast, despite only 204 cases produced, as George’s varietal reds and well-priced Meritage are just so good it’s hard to upsell many to The Legend! The big, thick bottle can be a little intimidating, but it’s going to look great lined up with its brethren as they rest away the years. Winery Direct $50

Collectibles: January 2017

Although maintaining budgetary restraint before the upcoming Vancouver International Wine Festival – and the acquisition opportunities it offers – is often necessary this month, a few collectibles must be mentioned. Upon review I was very pleased to have amassed a diverse range to launch the year, from Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir to Osoyoos Tannat. Any one of these exceptional wines would keep you warm in the crisp weather that remains in our midst, but could easily handle aging to even further greatness in the years ahead.

Carson 2014 Pinot Noir: When he isn’t delivering world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for the Meyer family in Okanagan Falls, Winemaker Chris Carson quietly releases small lots of his own-branded bottles. A mere 295 cases of Naramata Bench Pinot Noir came from a one and a half acre block in 2014, hand harvested and wild fermented before spending 11 months in (one third new) French oak. Carson makes no bones about the wine’s cellaring potential, listing an optimistic 15 years on the label, but he’s built up a lot of trust at Meyer that carries over to the personal brand he started in 2011. The Dijon 115 clone makes for what Anthony Gismondi feels is an “exuberant, fruity, spicy” wine even riper than the superb 2013 I was more than happy to acquire previously. Marquis Wine Cellars $40

Averill Creek 2014 Somenos Series Pinot Noir: It’s no secret Vancouver Island wines are a rarity in retail stores just a few kilometers across the Straight of Georgia. I get few opportunities to add the Island’s top wines to my collection, but jumped at the chance to piggyback on a friend’s case order for this extreme rarity. Already highly respected for his complex and finely crafted Pinot Noir, Proprietor Andy Johnston stepped up his game recently with the new premium-tier Somenos Series. The inaugural Pinot Noir is the Cowichan Valley’s bold, earthy, rich expression of the grape, and a wine Anthony Gismondi puts in contention for the Island’s best Pinot Noir yet. Keep your eyes peeled to see if any of the 300 cases make it over to the mainland. Winery Direct $44

Cassini 2013 Grand Reserve “Nobilus” Merlot: I stopped by Cassini Cellars’ convenient roadside Golden Mile winery late last year just as three new premium reds were released. Despite having closed the tasting room for the season proprietor Adrian Cassini generously took time away from several recently-arrived bins of (immaculate) grapes to ring in my enthusiastic purchase. The Merlot is his smallest lot of the batch, with only 187 cases produced after two years in new French oak, and was named best in class with a Double Gold at the 2016 All Canadian Wine Championships. John Schreiner focused on the new “high calibre” reds in his December review, finding the Merlot worthy of 92 points amid mention of its superb aging potential. Winery Direct $40

Cassini 2013 Collector’s Series Cabernet Franc: The new follow-up to last year’s Lieutenant Governor’s Award-winner has continued the tradition of excellence, taking home a Gold medal from the All Canadians last spring. It’s hard not to be taken in by Liam Carrier’s recent enthusiasm for the “stunningly beautiful” and utterly unique profile that evokes the coasts of California and Australia. Mention of the Cabernet Franc goes hand in hand with the equally superb 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (“The Aristocrat”), bought from the winery at the same time. Last May the 2012 vintage received 94 points and a Best in Class nod from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition; the 2013 is already equally highly regarded: 93 points from John Schreiner parallels Wine of the Year praise from the fans at IconWines. Winery Direct $34

Painted Rock 2014 Red Icon: Although 1,153 cases were ultimately produced of this top tier red from the Skaha Bench, it remains a preeminent collectible alongside other smaller lot rarities. Given the wine’s cachet it can often be just as hard to come by as much more limited bottles, resulting in an early release when the Painted Rock tasting room ran out of 2013! The (thoughtful) roller-coaster blend in Red Icon upped Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon this vintage, to combine 33% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 19% Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot, and (still only) 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. The established oak regime using just 30% new barrels should let the ripe 2014 fruit shine, even over the long haul (where the wine really excels). John Schreiner sought to “stay one step ahead of Decanter” (where Painted Rock’s wines are increasingly reviewed quite favourably) with a taste in September, complimenting the svelte polish with 94 points of praise. Winery Direct $55

Burrowing Owl 2013 Meritage: With the arrival of 2013, the days are numbered for 2007 in my cellar – the old must make way for the new, and a decade is long enough to slumber. Needing room for the newest vintage is great motivation for drinking up its well-aged ancestors. After at least fourteen vintages of Meritage this legendary Black Sage Bench winery is one of the few to retain the trademarked nomenclature for their flagship red. The name is technically accurate, given the blend of 39% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec, so why fix what isn’t broken. The components spent a total of 21 months in barrel (18 separately before blending), ensconced within a complex mix of European and American oaks of various ages. Finding a few bottles at retail level is unusual, but Burrowing Owl seems to be loosening up their notoriously tight grip in favour of greater shelf presence these past couple years. Firefly Fine Wine & Ales $58

Moon Curser 2014 Dead of Night: Chris Tolley’s commitment to – and success with – Tannat has yielded one of BC’s most unusual and desirable wines. Although uncommon varieties are prevalent at the Tolley family’s Osoyoos winery this equal-parts blend of Syrah and Tannat is considered the icon, and well known for its rich intensity. In 2014 the terrific growing season was a boon to heat-loving reds: one of the Tannat lots – a blend of both estate vineyards – came in at nearly 28 brix! After what must have been an exciting fermentation, the components aged in French and Hungarian oak for one year, with just 25% of the barrels being new. Bottled last March at a generous 14.6% declared alcohol (and nearly 3g/L of sugar remaining) it should age wonderfully under screwcap despite the fine and soft tannins said to exist at present. I’m in no rush as the 2009 vintage stares me down from the wine fridge. Winery Direct $43

Giving Thanks for BC Wine

The generous invitation I recently received to Clos du Soleil’s annual vertical tasting prompted plans for a wine country getaway. Having already visited Orofino’s marvellous guest suites this summer my wife and I immediately snapped up the spacious two-bedroom unit and encouraged some close friends to join us for a Similkameen sojourn over Thanksgiving weekend. Saturday morning saw me stopping at Clos du Soleil’s Keremeos winery for an exquisite lunch and guided tasting of every vintage since the inaugural 2006. My companions continued down the road and joined Orofino’s Collectors Club pickup party for a vertical tasting of their own.

Following the incredible assortment of wine and food at Clos du Soleil I made my way to neighbouring Cawston where the party at Orofino was gradually winding down. I was sure to bring with me my latest Soleil 160 Club order, it having patiently awaited my arrival in person since August. The box of reds included the delicious new 2014 Grower’s Series Syrah, a first for the varietal from Clos du Soleil, plus another bottle of exquisite 2012 Estate Reserve, and some of the finely crafted 2013 Signature to boot. I had added another bottle of the dreamy “Saturn” late harvest white for good measure, particularly given the admirable aging potential it had shown in the vertical tasting.

I found everyone in superb spirits at Orofino; no surprise, given the three vertical flights John & Virginia Weber had generously shared with the multitude of Club members on hand. The party had taken place in the unoccupied one-bedroom suite, where guests gazed upon the newest vineyard plantings from the expansive balcony. I was soon brought up to speed and provided with some detailed notes from earlier, during which several Riesling had launched the tasting: even the mature and expressive 2006 was in fine form. Textbook petrol and lemon-lime gave way to honeyed tropical fruits in the younger vintages, with seemingly effortless balance whether one gram of sugar (2015 Hendsbee Vineyard) or ten (2015 Home Vineyard).

For a look at Orofino’s red wines the Webers had dug even further back to find several vintages (2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013) of Home Vineyard Pinot Noir and even the flagship Beleza blend. The estate Pinot Noir comes from multiple clones planted as early as 1989, and has always been crafted in a signature Similkameen style, with dark fruit and spice expressing the warm valley floor. Early years were all drinking well, having matured to encompass earthy caramel and juicy dark cherries ready to be enjoyed, while the cool 2011 could continue refining in the cellar for several more years. The Beleza vertical highlighted the superb cola, chocolate, and red berry salad of 2007, John’s self-declared best wine ever. My own several-vintage vertical collection should age fine without much haste given the youthful state of 2009 and onward: the rich smoky fruit in each was still expressing generous tannin.

Just steps away our own suite allowed for a relaxing and mellow evening with help from a few more bottles on hand, including my latest Club package of 2015 Moscato Frizzante and 2014 Scout Vineyard Riesling (plus the newest 2013 Beleza). Orofino’s latest 2014 Pinot Noir and Syrah were also available in the tasting room, and I made certain to bring some home as well. With typical production for each hovering between 300-400 bottles I never miss either of these highly reliable varietals. The evening passed with nibbling and sipping and plenty of laughs while we absorbed the soothing Similkameen evening and generously appointed suite.

The following day we embarked on a whirlwind tour of the Okanagan from our home base in Cawston, stopping first at the shimmering Painted Rock tasting room high above Skaha Lake. Our friends had last seen the property when a pre-fabricated shed was all that stood where today John Skinner proudly hosts exceptional dinners, weddings, and helicopter landings all summer long! John’s dedication and precision were on display in his newest small lot varietal: in 2014 a mere handful of barrels were reserved from the flagship Red Icon blend to provide for 110 cases of Malbec. The dark violet colour – enchanting against the immaculate white bar – led into the similarly soft purple palate, where raspberries and Concord grapes were found amongst layers of spice and long, fine tannins. Our superb timing ensured a spot for this extreme rarity in my collection.

The notably fine 2014 vintage provided Painted Rock with spectacular Cabernets as well, and with healthy Franc plantings in the estate vineyard over 400 cases were excluded from blending (although Red Icon 2014 still has 21% Cabernet Franc). Rarely seen outside the tasting room, the new batch is only the second varietal Franc released. We noted an appealing earthy herbaceousness on the nose atop bountiful ripe fruit, and a slightly smoky, intense palate with more tannin than the Malbec – this one should make long waves in the cellar. In production since the start in 2007 the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon sells out particularly fast, but we got a taste while present, much to our liking: leather and spice with juicy balsamic character on the nose meshed with a red fruit palate of currants, stewed strawberry, and long-lasting vanilla. The toasty aftertaste conjured notes of Bourbon barrel caramelization to draw out the long-lasting finish.

Stocked up on reds and the irresistible Painted Rock Chardonnay we stopped next at Meyer Family Vineyards to the south in Okanagan Falls. Speaking of Chardonnay, the Meyer family’s specialty was a large part of my collected Club order: a stop in the tasting room accompanied my pickup of 2014 McLean Creek Road Chardonnay and 2015 Old Main Road (Stevens Block) Chardonnay. The McLean Creek home vineyard scooped a well-deserved Gold medal from this year’s National Wine Awards amid stiff competition (five of sixteen total Platinum medals were found in the Chardonnay category). Also in my triannual box of four bottles were a pair of mouth-watering 2014 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir – one for now and one for the cellar I should think!

With lunch on our minds and a destiny to the south we made it to the Golden Mile and a valley view at Tinhorn Creek’s renowned Miradoro Restaurant. There, moan-worthy deluxe grilled cheese sandwiches briefly took our attention away from wine and the sunny skies, before a visit to the still-bustling tasting room. The newly released 2015 Gewürztraminer was proudly displaying its new Golden Mile Bench sub-appellation labelling, and offering unbeatable value for just $16 to provide reams of culinary pairing opportunities; I made sure to stock up.

Similar cellar-stocking was available at near neighbour Fairview Cellars, home to Bill Eggert’s esteemed big reds, and increasingly some fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the radar. We caught up with Bill and his affable brother Chuck in the little log cabin tasting room, and were easily distracted by a menagerie of dogs and one feisty feline vying for attention. The newest 2014 Bucket O’ Blood Syrah-Cabernet made an equally strong impression; even so, with a December 2019 Best After date in print I hope to maintain the patience I have for the rest of Bill’s wines. Little surprise that other bottles like the 2014 Cabernet Franc, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon(s), and the inevitable tasting room back vintages provided plenty more palate pleasures in the refreshingly informal atmosphere Bill cultivates alongside his champion grapes.

Five wineries in one day seemed quite restrained as I brought us last to Road 13 before hitting the highway back west. There the Executive Lounge was still open under the supervision of proprietor Mick Luckhurst, hosting grateful Club 13 members for one of the region’s best guided tastings. There everything from Sparkling Chenin Blanc to the newest 2012 Fifth Element and awesomely rich 2013 Jackpot Petit Verdot were on hand, with Mick’s signature commentary and industry musings. It was the micro lot of simply stunning 2014 Jackpot Cabernet Sauvignon that blew our socks off in particular: just 70 cases are being dribbled out at iconic prices, but I was more than willing to fork over $120 for a single bottle to cellar with glee. Fitting that the Cabernet (and Petit Verdot) comes from Cawston’s increasingly legendary Blind Creek Vineyard: we soon returned to that neck of the woods for one more night of tranquil rest to round out a wondrous weekend.

April Wine Club: Another Bittersweet Goodbye

Nearly four years have passed since the departure of a (founding) couple in our wine club, but the time has come to send off another pair in style. Those original members have prospered in many ways in their new home, and our newest fledglings are sure to do the same in the heat of Arizona. Fortuitously some other friends had recently returned to Vancouver and were eager to fill the soon-to-be-empty slot, inspiring a grand transition dinner for ten. The distractions of food and wine served well to restrain most tears, alongside reassurance that many happy visits would follow.

My wife and I provided a mouth-watering dessert of sticky buns at last month’s brunch, so it was up to us to initiate the latest feast with provision of hors d’oeuvres. Still excited about the local wines I enjoyed at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival I sourced some of Summerhill’s superb new Blanc de Franc from Swirl VQA Store. For easy snacking during the social hour we elected on a creative concoction we named “Savoury Yogurt Parfaits”, essentially individual five-layer dips. Homemade layers of black bean dip, guacamole, and fresh tomato salsa were topped with Greek yogurt and shredded cheddar, to be ravished by Tostitos Rolls – not every meal need by haute cuisine!

Summerhill is renowned for their range of sparkling wines and the newest iteration of pure Cabernet Franc further grows the expansive portfolio to nine different versions! Introduced at February’s Wine Festival after three years en tirage, the Cipes 2011 Blanc de Franc seemed a great match for the “Parfaits”. The same bright red berry nose I adored at the Festival was still in place, with a smooth petite mousse and luscious raspberries & cream palate. The light and airy body possessed superb balance to refresh our palates between savoury, spicy bites, and two bottles were gone in no time with many compliments.

Had we followed the regular venue schedule our hosts for the evening would have been the departing couple, but with their exit preparations well underway a change was in order. Our alternate hosts for the evening welcomed us all to their versatile table for ten, and took on the appetizer course instead of the traditional entree. Their contribution to the meal was an appealingly simple presentation of Braised Artichokes with a pair of light white wines. Accompanied by Hollandaise Sauce and Irish Soda Bread the dish kept focus on the edible thistle’s rich natural flavours.

To sip as we slurped up creamy Hollandaise we chose from Black Market Wine Company’s 2014 “Secret Society White” and another Summerhill treat in the form of new 2015 Grüner Veltliner. Black Market has blended Gewurztraminer, Ehrenfelser, and Chardonnay in a surprisingly dry (3.5 g/L sugar) presentation of intense citrus fruit and fresh greenery. While the White made for an easy sipper, it was the new Grüner Veltliner, with one third higher acidity, that paired most successfully. The Grüner’s higher sugar was well balanced by 8.1 g/L of acidity, making an ideal foil for the Hollandaise. The palate provided refreshment with more citrus, passionfruit, and spicy minerality. As a new addition to Summerhill’s already bountiful portfolio, the small lot (120 cases) Grüner will be quite the rarity until production (hopefully) ramps up in future years.

The upcoming exit of such good friends called for opening an equally superb bottle of wine, and our entree chefs were graceful enough to accept my contribution to the cause. The expertly prepared Spinach & Artichoke Manicotti over which they had laboured was thus paired with my single precious magnum of 2009 Painted Rock Red Icon. I couldn’t be happier for such an opportunity to share this beautiful blend of 30% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, and 1% Syrah. The superbly-aged Lieutenant Governor’s Award-winner was allowed to decant, introducing us to fragrant aromas of cherry, blackberry, licorice, and eucalyptus. Black fruits like currant, plum, and cherry dominated the smooth and very well integrated palate, with a hint of rose petal adding a smile on the finish. The signed magnum made a great souvenir for our decamping companions; fortunately I still have a couple more (regular) bottles for further enjoyment!

After some second helpings of Manicotti we were definitely slowing down, but still found room for Chunky Cheesecake Brownies and real vanilla ice cream. Two wine pairings included the risky venture of dry Road 13 2014 Viognier as well as Hester Creek’s 2013 Late Harvest Pinot Blanc. Somewhat surprisingly the Viognier fared well despite the sweet dessert, with apricot and vanilla aromas matching the ice cream and sufficient fresh acidity to yield a pleasant palate cleanse. The Pinot Blanc offered a tropical honeyed pineapple palate, obviously fuller in body than the table wine given the much higher residual sugar (approximately 75 g/L). A couple years in bottle had developed some deeper, caramelized fruits versus the lighter stone fruit that would have likely have been most present in the past.

Normally dessert would mark the end of our monthly wine and food indulgence, but with an extra-large group present we had assigned one final course of “après-dessert”. The newly joining members were given the challenge of devising something memorable to close the night, and rose to it mightily with an elegant Koko Monk “Blue Moon” chocolate. Joining this perfectly-sized morsel was a rich cocktail – rarely seen in our club but within the informal restrictions given the incorporation of BC wine. The “Portland Manhattan” blended a prodigious quantity of Therapy Vineyards’ Freudified Port-style with an equally generous amount of Smoked Maple Bourbon. Any subtleties of Therapy’s non-vintage blend of two thirds Syrah and one third Merlot were admittedly supressed by the overwhelming maple flavour, but it sure made for an easy-drinking cocktail!

A plentiful meal and nearly too many wines (and additional spirits) to count yielded a challenging Monday morning for many of us, but with such an epic evening we had memories for years. I consider every bottle of wine I buy to be an advance purchase of a memory down the road, so it was a joy to make one more with such fine friends. Within days we’ll wave “see you soon” to a new pair of emergent oenophiles, with promises to share another bottle shortly, over tales of adventure and accomplishment. Happy trails Croftys!

Okanagan Falls Puts Another Foot Forward

Most people could be forgiven for failing to notice the wineries around Okanagan Falls have become an assembly to be reckoned with in recent years. Unlike more historical marketing groups in areas like the Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls wineries only banded together very recently. In a few short years as a formal Winery Association this diverse group of businesses are helping place BC wine on the international map, and commanding significant respect and attention in their own right.

This week the Association hosted their fourth annual trade & media tasting, showing off upcoming and recent releases from the fourteen member wineries in The Loft at Earl’s Yaletown. One admirable characteristic of this group is freedom from some of the political machinations that can distract other bodies, evident by the embrace of Skaha Bench wineries like Blasted Church, Painted Rock, and Pentâge, plus Kaleden concerns like TopShelf and Krâzē Legz. Moreover, the Association continues to grow at a healthy pace, as new wineries such as Nighthawk Vineyards work alongside prominent established businesses like Blue Mountain, See Ya Later Ranch, and Wild Goose. The opportunity to taste wines from these creative ventures and speak with the variety of owners and winemakers was not to be missed. Many thanks to my friend and fellow BC Wine Appreciation Society member Shelley Hayashi for the wonderfully illustrative photos!

The renowned white wines of Wild Goose drew my attention immediately, with additional regard for the maturing red program at the Kruger family’s pride and joy. General Manager Roland Kruger had in hand samples of 2015 Pinot Gris plus Pinot Blanc fresh of this week’s bottling line. The surprisingly perfumed Pinot Gris led into the delicious newly-bottled Mystic River Pinot Blanc, awash in crisp orchard fruit flavours that should continue this wine’s acclaimed tenure. The 2013 Red Horizon Meritage also showed the growing creativity of Winemaker Hagen Kruger, who has deftly blended 55% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a hefty proportion of 20% Petit Verdot. Visitors to the winery can also sample varietal Pinot Noir and Merlot to supplement the better known aromatic whites while envisioning a bountiful future for this BC original.

My longstanding, well-deserved favouritism for Painted Rock took me to the table manned by proprietor John Skinner, his daughter (and Business Development Manager) Lauren, plus Senior Sales Consultant Jill Butterworth Penner. All three of these dynamic team members were happy to pour complex 2014 Rosé plus a triplet of intense 2013 reds: Merlot, Syrah, and the sold-out Red Icon blend. The Icon was being poured from the only format that remains available – magnum – while John awaits the appropriate time this summer to bottle his in-demand 2014 vintage. Of particular interest was hearing about a slight increase in new oak for the 2014 reds after years of decreasing proportions, as recommended by consultant Alain Sutre. This admirable responsiveness to vintage conditions is reflective of John’s independent approach to each annual lot (and why the Red Icon is a completely different, delicious blend every year).

At the Stag’s Hollow table, owner Larry Gerelus and winemaker Dwight Sick were pouring the embarrassment of riches that is their portfolio as of late. Despite the suggested four wines per table, I counted at least double that from this supremely adventurous winery, soon to present pioneering varieties such as Teroldego and Dolcetto, in addition to existing, finely crafted rarities like Albariño, Grenache, and Tempranillo. New this year is also the Muscat Frizzante, smoothly spritzy and packaged under practical screwcap to ensure easy enjoyment over the summer months. Rather unexpected but desirable interpretations of (barrel-fermented) Sauvignon Blanc and rare Osoyoos-grown Riesling were also serving to throw guests for an enjoyable loop. Fans of creative winemaking with an ever-present focus on quality would be wise to join the Stag’s Hollow Wine Club, soon to be blessed with exclusive varietal Malbec.

Blue Mountain is one of British Columbia’s oldest wineries, having virtually defined BC sparkling wine (not to mention Burgundian varieties) for decades, thanks to “43 years of continuous grape production by one family.” Christie Mavety was available alongside Keystone Fine Wines representative Christine Fawcett to remind those present that her family’s focus on estate-grown excellence remains strong, while pouring the well-known “Gold Label” Brut as well as mouth-watering 2008 Blanc de Blancs. The vintage bubbly represents a move by the Mavetys to further develop their portfolio in recent years, with a total of four sparkling wines that include impressively-aged Reserve Brut (e.g., 2007 at present) in addition to existing vintage Brut Rosé. Meanwhile, the 2014 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay varietals being poured were simply icing on the cake that included the highly impressive Pinot Noir.

Efforts to ensure early bottling at Liquidity Wines allowed for Customer Experience Manager Erin Korpisto to show off 2015 Pinot Gris as well as the straight-forward “White Blend”; with the Blend providing a surprisingly well-aligned composition of 32% Chardonnay, 30% Viognier, 20% Pinot Gris, and 18% Sauvignon Blanc. A pair of Pinot Noirs provided insight into the red program that should soon see an additional third reserve tier added to the existing “Select” and “Estate” Pinot. At the same time the 2012 “Dividend” red was showing lovely integration, featuring a traditional Right-bank Bordeaux configuration favouring 72% Merlot. Later this year the new 2014 Dividend will provide a glimpse of the delicious possibilities in a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant blend.

The bonanza of Riesling from Alan Dickinson’s Synchromesh continues to grow, and he was happily pouring several different vineyard-specific examples from the 2015 vintage. The entry-level blend of all four vineyards has been joined by a similar version labelled simply “Drier” with 27 g/L of sugar to the former’s 34 grams. The sugar levels for 2015 peak at nearly 51 grams from the Four Shadows Vineyard outside Penticton, but acidity serves to sufficiently balance each wine, including that from the flagship Storm Haven Vineyard home property. Particularly appealing was a 2013 Botrytis-affected Riesling produced in a surprisingly dry style, providing the complex Botrytis flavours without a sugar rush to distract the palate. I was also enamoured from the get go with Alan’s new Cabernet Franc Rosé, a bone dry, 11.3% alcohol beauty with delicate colour and precise texture, and of which there were only 88 cases produced.

The personal touch was present again from Noble Ridge owners Jim & Leslie D’Andrea, on hand to discuss their fifteen-year-old winery and stunning estate vineyard overlooking Vaseux Lake. Crisp 2014 Pinot Grigio provided a lip-smacking homage to Jim’s Italian roots, while 2012 Reserve Chardonnay was everything a Chard-fan could hope for with velvety toffee flavours. The 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir and Meritage greatly impressed me, particularly as they represent only the middle-tier bottlings, with the highly infrequent “King’s Ransom” series a further step up in quality and exclusivity. Even better news came regarding newly released 2011 “The One” sparkling, a 220-case-lot successor to last year’s Lieutenant Governor’s-Award winning 2010 vintage. Leaving estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for forty months en tirage via traditional method production should provide another success story in the coming year.

Before departing I ensured another taste of Meyer Family Vineyards’ Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, after having sampled the same wines at the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival. While Jak & Janice Meyer could not be present, their small lot whites and reds were poured instead by friendly International Cellars representatives. The pairs of single vineyard Chardonnay (Old Main Road & McLean Creek) and Pinot Noir (McLean Creek & Reimer) all came from the newest 2014 vintage release. As with my experience at VIWF I felt that all four called for more time to mature, albeit intense and expressive at present. Giving Winemaker Chris Carson’s complex Burgundian varietals time in the cellar can be highly rewarding, and the reason I have yet to open 2012 Chardonnay and even some 2008 Pinot Noir.

Although I failed to reach each and every table and taste all the wines available from this continually-growing collective I was given a chance to reflect on how many of my favourites wineries can be found in this relatively unassuming part of wine country. Fortunately regular visits and club shipments ensure I maintain a steady supply at home. The enviable position of Okanagan Falls mid-valley actually makes visiting surprisingly easy – it can be reached in one hour from Kelowna and a mere 30 minutes from Osoyoos and the Canada-US border. I’ll be back again soon, and am grateful to the Okanagan Falls Winery Association for providing yet another reminder why it’s wise to visit often!