BCWAS Bus Tour 2015: Naramata Bench

This year’s record-breaking weather meant the recent BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour ended up smack dab in the middle of harvest! Despite finding themselves in the midst of an accelerating schedule all the winery proprietors and winemakers who committed to meeting our tour group were able to follow through. We also had the rare opportunity to view the winemaking process up close and personal as we stepped over hoses and made way for forklifts. While the settings we visited were a bit more hectic than anticipated, sampling fresh, sweet grape must from tanks more than made up for the disruptions!

Our first stop on Saturday morning placed us at Serendipity Winery on the northern Naramata Bench. In her rustic tasting room, Proprietor Judy Kingston poured samples of nearly every wine she produces: “patio pounder” aromatic White Lie 2011 led into the traditional grassy 2014 Sauvignon Blanc and the serious 2012 Viognier, a match made for coconut shrimp. (Judy’s culinary background ensures food pairing opportunities are the foremost focus at Serendipity.) A 2013 Pinot Grigio was suggested as companion for spicy foods, while the cranberry and pomegranate flavours in 2014 Rosé demand turkey and vegetables. Reds on hand included the full-bodied 2012 Pinot Noir, 2010 Devil’s Advocate (70% Merlot and 30% Syrah), the youthful and bright 2010 Serenata Bordeaux blend, and even newly released, delicious 2011 Cabernet Franc and 2011 Syrah.

In the ten-acre vineyard, hand-planted by Judy herself in 2005, her daughter Katie puts a biology degree to good use with creative pest management choices. Distracting voracious cut-worms with vineyard trimmings is one way to reduce unnecessary pesticide exposure, and Katie’s most recent compost project is actually yielding tax credits – contingent on a well-written formal report to government. The winery facilities are being reorganized and well managed by Winemaker Bradley Cooper since he joined the team last year. It’s where he also produces his own line of Pinot Noir under the Black Cloud label, with Judy’s blessing. Behind the enormous wooden door, Brad poured tank samples of 2015 Sauvignon Blanc and revealed Katie’s pet project – the upcoming 2014 Sparkling Chardonnay, still resting en tirage.

With everyone stocked up on Serendipity’s finely crafted wines we trundled on down the road to Hillside Winery & Bistro, where an early lunch awaited us. As we seated ourselves in a private dining area, Bistro Manager Lisa Henderson introduced Winemaker Kathy Malone. The perfect welcome to Hillside came in the form of 2014 Muscat Ottonel, their most popular wine, sourced from estate vines planted in 1984 when Hillside was first established. The complex profile from 30-year-old vines facilitated immediate refreshment from the 32-degree sunshine outside; Kathy was sure to mention the fresh floral aromas best labelled as Baby’s Breath.

Lunch began with a creative Baby Kale Caesar Salad: those who held on to their Muscat would have found an ideal pairing, but the follow-up 2014 Gewürztraminer provided a relatively dry, balanced approach to fruit and floral character. Between courses the intense and earthy 2011 Old Vines Gamay Noir showed off more of Hillside’s original vineyard achievements. Keeping our palates entertained was rich and supple Reserve Pinot Gris 2014 with Seafood Cioppino or bright and spicy 2012 Syrah with Wild Mushroom Pappardelle Pasta. A special treat as we finished came in the form of freshly pressed Muscat juice, hand-harvested from right outside by Kathy herself while we dined – talk about 0-mile eating!

A visit to Hillside’s tasting room after lunch saw me discover the rare Port-style “Soirée”, a nicely balanced solera-style multi-grape blend that became one of my few unplanned impulse purchases. We soon made a quick jaunt up the road to Howling Bluff Estate Winery to experience Luke Smith’s ode to Pinot Noir. With no room inside the tasting room (formerly his eldest child’s bedroom), Luke held court on the terrace and passed around his most recent white wines: 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and the excellent Sauvignon-Semillon blend. Despite coming directly from lunch we hung on every word of Luke’s inspired food pairings, from Dungeness Crab in Black Bean Sauce to Jalapeño-Serrano Chili Ceviche.

Having sufficiently loosened us up Luke presented an extremely generous and awe-inspiring seven-year vertical of his award-winning Pinot Noir. Not only has Howling Bluff’s “Summa Quies” Pinot Noir brought home a bevy of medals and two Lieutenant Governor’s Awards, but it was the only variety other than Syrah to ever be named Red Wine of the Year from the Canadian Wine Awards. Starting with the first vintage, we inhaled the gorgeous aromas of 2006, Luke’s “sheer, dumb luck” success from two-year-old vines. All the way through to the current 2012 vintage we sniffed and sipped from some relatively youthful bottles, while Luke provided honest criticism of his work, when it could be found. The newest release just brought home a Silver medal from the Decanter Awards, for a wine Luke feels is “getting back to basics” and comparing favourably to 2006.

Joyously burdened with more prudent purchases, we made for Bench 1775 Winery to conclude the first day of touring. General Manager, Viticulturist, and Winemaker Valeria Tait joined us on the well-appointed deck to provide samples of several of her wines, alongside lavish platters of local cheese and charcuterie. We tried several of the table wines from Bench 1775’s extensive portfolio; quenching our thirst under the mid-afternoon sun with 2014 vintages of gooseberry and grapefruit Sauvignon Blanc, crisp “Glow” Malbec Rosé, and the lip-smacking “Chill” white blend. The “Groove” 2013 red blend was also well suited to the warm weather, an easy-drinking combination of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah served cool; followed by fine 2013 Pinot Noir and hearty 2013 Merlot.

After a late afternoon rest period at the hotel, dinner at Summerland’s Local Lounge was hosted by Stag’s Hollow Winery. The five-course meal allowed winery Proprietors Larry Gerelus & Linda Pruegger and Winemaker Dwight Sick to feature some of their most exciting and rare wines. Lobster Bisque & Seared Mini Crab Cake paired nicely with crisp 2014 Riesling – providing fresh, tart flavours to balance the rich and creamy seafood. “Orange Wine” 2013 Viognier Marsanne was served with Seared Scallop, truffled cauliflower puree, and red onion bacon jam. The upcoming 2014 Renaissance Grenache was perfect with House-cured Duck Breast, blueberry salt, and Poplar Grove blue cheese. The ambitious “Tongue and Cheek” beef braised in red wine demi-glace paired very well with 2012 Hawk’s Hollow, a wine club exclusive blend of 45% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. Finally, the winery’s 2012 “Hart” fortified Merlot finished off the meal with a selection of artisan cheeses.

BCWAS Serendipity Tasting

Members of the BC Wine Appreciation Society enjoyed an intimate and informative tasting of the Naramata Bench wines of Serendipity this week. Proprietor and Winemaker Judy Kingston travelled to Vancouver with her daughter and “Second-in-Command” Katie to share a selection of finished wines and fresh tank samples with a crowd of enthusiastic learners. Like probably many of the guests in attendance I wasn’t too familiar with Judy’s wines, seeing as her first estate vintage came from 2009, and her 2010 reds are only just being released now. A relatively small production quantity of 2,500 cases (and growing) might mean this little winery beside Therapy Vineyards could be easily missed, but having tasted the wines in detail I for one will be actively seeking them out going forward!

To introduce the crowd to Serendipity and her winemaking philosophy Judy began with what is likely an oft-told – but no less fascinating and inspiring – story. After years as a professional attorney in Toronto Judy was forced to give up law permanently after a terrible car accident brought on memory loss, in addition to crippling bodily injuries. Judy’s brief referral to “learning to walk and talk again” obviously belies the intense struggles she must have overcome. However, as Judy described it, she would have never again felt confident counselling a client if she couldn’t be sure she hadn’t forgotten some key law, rule, or legal precedent – the “unknown unknowns” as it were. Neurosurgeons suggested that her future career options should exclude any newly acquired skills, but her only other expertise was in cooking, having past training as a professional chef. Unfortunately, her injuries would forever prevent her from long periods of time standing, so even cooking was now off the list.

A trip to the Okanagan with early retirement on her mind is what ultimately brought Judy into the world of winemaking, when a jaunt through Naramata seeking a route north to Kelowna (which she discovered is impassable to most vehicles) led her past an orchard for sale. Realizing that winemaking was “safe” led to the snap purchase – after all, if she forgot something while winemaking the worst that could happen was terrible wine! That serendipitous moment inspired the winery’s ethos, and the apples and cherries were replaced with vines starting in 2006, first harvested in 2009, followed by Serendipity’s official opening in 2011.

To introduce us to her winemaking approach Judy had brought her 2012 Viognier along with tank samples of the 2013 vintage. Like all of her wines, the Viognier is finished completely dry, to provide for ideal food pairing opportunities. (For the same reason, none of the white wines spend any time in oak.) The 2012 showed that purity of fruit quite well, with pear and orange blossom flavours and a long finish. The 2013 tank sample amplified every aspect, with a gorgeous nose of floral stone fruit and a rich palate of white peach and tropical hints leading to an even longer finish.

The grapes in Serendipity’s vineyard are cropped quite low, far below industry averages, at 2.5 tons per acre for whites, and a mere 1 ton for reds. Judy’s insistence on such small numbers makes it virtually impossible for her to purchase grapes to expand her operations – growers almost always insist on payment by the ton, not by the acre, and won’t crop to her standards. I have heard similar tales from other exacting wineries, and the ultimate solution is to slowly, steadily add to one’s vineyard holdings to allow fully control. Fortunately, thus far Judy has managed to borrow access to vineyard land from retiring farmers who still want to retain the property rights, giving her nearly complete control over vineyard operations.

While Serendipity may be boutique in size, Judy has thoughtfully incorporated several key grape varieties, which she has grown from “infancy” in her own nursery. In fact, during the first harvest the thriving nursery was nearly forgotten about. In yet another serendipitous moment that diverse collection of red grapes was ultimately made into a Rosé. As with the Viognier, Judy was pleased to share with us the 2012 Rosé, plus a 2013 tank sample. From a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Noir, and Syrah we enjoyed earthy, strawberry-rhubarb aromas and a clean, red berry and pomegranate palate. The 2013 sample was very similar, just that much fresher and livelier. By blending so many grapes to yield multiple flavours Judy ensures versatility, in that no one characteristic dominates any potential food pairing, and the wine works with a range of cuisines.

As we enjoyed the wines Katie also chimed in on occasion with her unique perspective. Now a vested member of the winery team – having abstained from a career in law – Katie has been working closely with her mother since finishing her undergraduate education in biology. At one point Katie took pleasure in telling us about her being roped into facilitating natural pest management during her summer visits, as the winery was being established. While her peers were enjoying Naramata beach parties Katie was spending her evenings in the vineyard alongside her mom, manually “squishing” cutworms! (Judy strives to avoid spraying her grapes, in order to retain beneficial insects.) At Katie’s urging, they tried an alternate remedy for cutworms she’d read about – spreading hot sauce around each vines’ base. Unfortunately an experiment indoors with some live specimens showed the worms simply lapped it up without harm, so back to squishing they went!

Although Serendipity also produces a Sauvignon Blanc varietal wine and a white blend (called “White Lie”), we spent the remainder of the evening focusing on the many reds on hand. Originally Judy had intended on producing only one red Bordeaux-style blend, but that clearly didn’t pan out, as we had no less than three blends in front of us! The superb value “Red Handed” 2010 is a Meritage blend with the addition of Syrah and Pinot Noir – all of the red grapes Judy grows. I thoroughly enjoyed the delicious aromas of milk chocolate, cherries, and vanilla, which led superbly into flavours of berry fruit and chocolate. Given that this newly bottled wine will retail for only $18 it seems like a steal!

The “Devil’s Advocate” 2010 came next, and again centered on a red Meritage blend with a little something extra. In this case the extra comes from 30% Syrah, leading to toasty aromas of leather and eucalyptus. The bright, peppery palate was very tasty – and like the Red Handed seemed almost sweet from the intense fruit. Judy hasn’t shied away from entering her wines in competition, and the Devil’s Advocate has achieved some prominent medals, including Silver from the Canadian Wine Awards, All Canadian Wine Championships, and the San Francisco International Wine Competition.

Two mini-verticals of newly released and upcoming reds continued the excitement, beginning with the original intended red blend, “Serenata”. Although Serenata 2008 was one of Judy’s very first wines, it was the 2009 that included her first estate grapes, and which we were set to enjoy. This straight red Meritage includes some other Naramata Bench grapes as well, and came directly from Judy’s library – only 21 cases were produced! The complex palate showed more tannin and darker fruit than the earlier two reds, but all in superb balance with acidity and oak. This was followed up with the new 2010 Serenata, featuring Serendipity’s special Calgary Stampede bottle design (including Isaac Newton wearing a cowboy hat). After the Devil’s Advocate was featured in the Stampede’s wine program last year, the Serenata is headed there for 2014. Calgary restaurant-goers can look forward to another finely balanced wine with a delicious, fresh nose and great food-friendly acidity. Fortunately 450 cases were produced this time around!

Joining the Serenata in Calgary will be the 2010 Syrah, a smooth, spicy wine with a hint of smoke to ensure ideal barbecue pairing. The Syrah was our final wine, preceded by the 2009 vintage of the same, a similarly spicy, ripe treat showing hints of brown sugar on the palate. Only 40 cases of 2009 Syrah were produced, but Judy managed to increase production to 95 cases in 2010, still a meagre amount by any standard, so it likely won’t last long!

So many wonderful wines and stimulating stories provided an excellent introduction to an up-and-coming winery. If you couldn’t make it to the tasting be sure to keep your eyes peeled for Serendipity at your nearest wine store, or visit Judy, Katie, and the rest of their growing team in Naramata someday soon!