Collectibles: April 2016

I was reminded of the diversity that can be found in wine production schedules this month, seeing full-bodied Merlot and Syrah emerging alongside the spring’s freshest whites and Rosé. While some days see me finding long-sought bottles in out of the way stores, or finally caving to my desires for the last batch of some rarity for which I have no room, every April collectible is a brand new release. With a couple exceptions, these seven wines are exclusively small lot productions rarely seen in stores, necessitating immediate purchase when spotted, or acquisition directly from the winery.

Tantalus 2013 Old Vines Riesling: Although BC now has a healthy proportion of world-class Riesling, it’s Tantalus and their old vines that receive the greatest cult status. While the winery’s regular Riesling is exceptionally delicious as well, the dry and intense Old Vines version is a consistent collectible with superb aging potential. Released after two years of bottle age it sells out fast from the winery, and has been absent from VQA stores for years. Intense acid in 2013, reaching 10.7g/L, is barely tempered by a relatively low 9.1 g/L of residual sugar, leading reviewers like WineAlign’s David Lawrason to praise the powerful texture, riveting acidity, and outstanding length: “It should age decades.” Hearing that Winemaker David Paterson believes the 2013 is his best ever provides quite the impetus to sock some away! Swirl VQA Store $35

CedarCreek 2013 Platinum Pinot Noir Block 4: One of two reserve-tier Pinot Noir at CedarCreek, the Block 4 received a Gold medal from the National Wine Awards last summer. Despite bottling in March 2015 it is only now trickling into stores after a year of bottle aging and great patience on the part of collectors. The Block 4 typically differs from the lighter more floral Block 2 label, with robust body and spiced mocha character suggested after going through wild fermentation and 15 months in French oak. Like the other Platinum wines it comprises a small lot, with 420 cases produced from 2013 (alongside 325 cases of the equally new Block 2). New owner Anthony Von Mandl’s confidence in his property appears strong, given the 50% price increase the Platinum Pinots experienced after the winery’s acquisition in 2014. Swirl VQA Store $66

Church & State 2013 Coyote Bowl Syrah: The reserve-tier Syrah from Church & State’s Black Sage Bench Coyote Bowl Vineyard is another benchmark for the varietal from BC, with a slew of decorations to its name in previous years, including a Lieutenant Governor’s Award. The newest vintage was just released after having been bottled last August following 22 months in 40% new French, Russian, and American oak. The winery’s crown jewel home vineyard is yielding an abundance of quality Syrah grapes, enough for 1,075 cases from the superior 2013 vintage. Having tasted it alongside a handful of other BC Syrah recently I found it leaning towards the serious and savoury side, with readily apparent peppercorn atop intense dark fruit, plus sufficient structure to keep it sound for a few years in the cellar. Swirl VQA Store $38

Road 13 2012 Jackpot Syrah: Although Road 13 established a loyalty club many years ago, they have now structured their program to feature thrice-annual customized shipments. My first shipment offered the opportunity to add a bottle of the newest release reserve-tier Syrah. Blending Syrah with Malbec (in 2012 and 2013) yielded the Golden Mile winery Platinum medals at two consecutive National Wine Awards competitions. Fresh from 22 months (French oak & steel) barrel aging, I fully expect their small production (139 cases) Jackpot Syrah to continue demonstrating the winery’s growing mastery with the variety. Interestingly the tasting notes suggest a departure from previous vintages that emphasized meaty character, focusing instead on a Northern Rhone profile of “blueberry, orange peel, dark chocolate, plum, black pepper, and grilled almond.” Winery Direct $40

Le Vieux Pin 2013 Retouche: Like the discretely Syrah-infused “Hermitaged” Bordeaux produced by outlaw winemakers of old, Retouche is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. The new blend marks an abrupt change from previous years however, when it included only Cabernet and Syrah. It was recently released to Wine Club members and a few lucky restaurant clients, but is worth seeking out for collectors – only 125 cases were produced (still, a big increase from the 61 cases in 2012). The combination of prime grapes from the famed U2 Block north of Oliver, the Golden Mile, and the home vineyard on the Black Sage Bench spent 18 months in used French oak, ensuring the fruit flavours shine. Having tasted it earlier this month John Schreiner complimented the cassis aromas and concentrated “flavours of black currant, coffee, and dark chocolate.” Winery Direct $69

LaStella 2014 Fortissimo: This well-priced Super Tuscan-style blend is the Italian-inspired winery’s workhorse. Compared to smaller lots of varietal Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese the Fortissimo practically routs the rest with 1,374 cases produced in 2014. Although it hasn’t necessarily been a stated goal, it is exciting to see Sangiovese finally reach the second-highest proportion of the blend for the first time, with 21% following 57% Merlot, and trailed by 11% each Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. The grapes – from five vineyards throughout the southern Okanagan – were aged in more than 40% neutral oak, with only 15% new barrels used. Fortissimo is consistently well crafted for current consumption as well as elegant aging; I was surprised to discover I now have seven vintages in the cellar! Swirl VQA Store $38

LaStella 2013 Allegretto Merlot: Although the iconic Maestoso Merlot is the king at LaStella, the Allegretto has risen in the ranks to provide for a relatively close second status, and is often even more difficult to acquire! Allegretto comes from the Stagg’s Vineyard on the west side of Osoyoos Lake, further south than the lakeside home vineyard where Maestoso is grown. The pure white sand and low water retention in Stagg’s allows the Merlot vines to be grown on their own rootstock (without fear of phylloxera infestation), leading to the “Pie Franco” designation (“on its own foot”). Four acres of lovingly tended vines yielded a total of 275 cases in 2013, which spent 18 months in used French oak before bottling. The result is a well-integrated wine that the winery believes leverages the strong growing season to offer “more immediate appeal upon release” than previous vintages. Winery Direct $69

December Wine Club: Return to Form

After a several-month intermission and a busy summer season of travel our wine club finally reconvened this month in what is hoped to be a more permanent fashion. Our hosts were pleased to finally accommodate us in their snug new home, with some inspired furniture reconfiguration to provide seating for seven. The upcoming holiday season and falling temperatures had inspired some cozy winter comfort foods with a pleasant burst of bright white wines to keep the mood upbeat as the longest day of the year approaches.

Having been assigned hors d’oeuvres duty my wife and I needed to bring something ready to go immediately, to assuage any hunger pangs and provide a solid base for the wines to come. Always striving for something new we elected on soft pretzels, having never before made them, and excited to do so when I came across a delicious recipe in BC Liquor Stores’ Taste Magazine. It was the Roasted Jalapeno & Beet Dip that caught my eye, and I was soon scouring my CellarTracker database for the appropriate wine pairings.

With our Smoked Salt Pretzel Sticks and Beet Dip we shared a pair of big name wines; starting with Mission Hill’s 2009 Martin’s Lane Riesling, the inaugural vintage of this limited edition series in honour of Proprietor Anthony Von Mandl’s father Martin. A few years in bottle provided us with potent petrol aromas that gave way to generous pineapple and citrus. The tropical flavours continued on the palate, where relatively low acidity and a viscous texture emphasized the wine’s Germanic roots, courtesy of consulting winemaker Fritz Hasselbach. With the spicy Jalapeno Dip plus salty blue cheese crumbled over top the off-dry Riesling made for an excellent introduction to the evening.

Another cellar selection came out to kick start the meal in the form of Osoyoos Larose 2007 Le Grand Vin, a Christmas gift from four years ago ready for its day in the sun. With the understanding some decanting would likely be necessary we deconstructed the savoury first impression. The nose provided hints of olives and dates, with some guests discerning almonds and Brandy cherries as well. The palate was certainly shedding some of the legendary Grand Vin tannins, but noticeable dusty indications remained as we tasted restrained red currants. Revisiting the bottle later in the meal showed how much it had opened up and softened, releasing more elegant textures and fruit flavour. Ultimately a touch dry to fully synchronize with the Pretzels & Dip, but the earthiness from the beets colluded nicely regardless.

Seated at the table we soon tucked in to the appetizer course. The Caramelized Onion Tart was charmingly presented with a garnish of fresh microgreens atop the rich Emmental-infused base. Our most curious wine of the evening was on hand as we were presented with a 2014 Pinot Noir from the previously unknown Black Star Vineyards. The wine showed off classic aromas of raspberry, cherry, and earthy mushrooms wafting from the glass, with similarly predictable pale ruby colouring. The smooth texture was a surprise given the recent vintage, with a pleasing flavour profile reminiscent of raspberry lemonade with hints of cloves.

Descriptors aside, we spent more time discussing the wine’s provenance than anything! None at the table had ever heard of the winery/vineyard, and the label indicated only a Lake Country origin from north of Kelowna – no contact information, virtual or otherwise, was provided. Extensive web searching that evening and later turned up no clues either, until assistance from the BC Wine Institute finally revealed the work of Ex Nihilo. The charismatic winery – visited in person last fall – recently created the Black Star label as an exclusive for western Canada Liquor Depot stores. Many restaurants and resorts are sourcing their own custom-branded wines, and it now seems the retail industry is jumping aboard as well; wine shopping could soon become an even more complicated affair!

Dining at the home of creative vegetarians ensured we would receive a delicious main course to satisfy any palate. A pair of beautiful white wines were partnered with homemade Seitan Cutlets over mashed potatoes and crisp green beans, topped with savoury Olive & Caper Picada. From Blasted Church, the newest 2014 Mixed Blessings provided aromatic intensity from 90% Viognier, 7% Ehrenfelser, and 3% Pinot Gris. There were suggestions of fresh laundry from the clean, citrus and orchard fruit nose, while the creamy palate provided additional fruit flavours accented by vanilla and even some intriguing hints of licorice.

Should the very enjoyable Viognier have not sufficed, a second bottle of intense 2014 Riesling was on hand from Kelowna’s quintessential Tantalus. Working with the tangy picada the Riesling provided substantial refreshment, wafting mouth-watering key lime pie aromas. The apple and lime palate was luscious thanks to 12 g/L of residual sugar, deftly balanced by a bracing 10 g/L of acidity. (The sought-after Old Vines version sweeps you off your feet with only half the sugar.) A mention of “limeade concentrate” was put forth as we savoured the tart finish and discussed the obvious differences from the earlier, aged Mission Hill example.

Dessert came courtesy of a late-arriving member, coming straight from an earlier engagement with an easily acceptable penance of Chocolate Bundt Cake from the acclaimed Uprising Bakery. Homemade Strawberry-Honey compote provided a touch of colour and juicy fruit, and La Frenz’s sumptuous Liqueur Muscat pulled it all together. Sipping the Muscat – from a multi-year, neutral barrel solera – encouraged a bevy of beautiful captions such as tropical toffee and orange Amaretto. This wasn’t the first bottle we have enjoyed together, and will most certainly not be the last either, as it effortlessly concludes many a wonderful evening.

Collectibles: June 2015

Through a happy coincidence the majority of my cellar acquisitions this month consisted of Pinot Noir. Some came in recent winery club shipments while others were courtesy of a group order following the BC Wine Appreciation Society’s 10th Anniversary Gala festival tasting. These traditionally lighter-bodied wines seemed thematically appropriate given the warm summer weather.

Tantalus 2012 Old Vines Riesling: Along with a couple bottles of the rare and delicious Brut version of this legendary Riesling I also snagged the table wine following the BCWAS Gala. Described as focused and pure by the winery it certainly focuses one’s palate, with a relatively dry 6.3 grams of sugar and racy 10.8 grams of acidity. Stats like those (and 35-year-old vines) ensure it will last nearly forever in the cellar. Winery Direct $35

50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir: Each year that goes by the young vines north of Kelowna provide a little more complexity (and acreage) for Winemaker Grant Stanley. The sixty-one acre estate is already yielding 2,145 cases of Pinot Noir, and production will likely continue to increase as the vines mature. A recent opportunity to taste this wine (a blend of six clones) prompted an immediate purchase, given the impressive balance and fresh, clean palate. Swirl VQA Store $35

Meyer 2013 Reimer Pinot Noir: Along with a couple bottles of the new 2014 Rosé (already sold out), my most recent Wine Club shipment from Meyer included new vintages of the winery’s two single vineyard Pinot Noir. I had the opportunity to taste both at a recent winery dinner hosted by the BC Wine Appreciation Society. The Reimer Family Vineyard in Kelowna yielded only 180 cases this vintage, so few likely remain at the winery. Winery Direct $40

La Frenz 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir: Owner/Winemaker Jeff Martin was present in person at the BCWAS Gala; I made sure to add a few bottles of his to the group order afterwards to take advantage of the opportunity. Along with some consistently superb fortified dessert wines I bought this well respected Pinot Noir, a reserve selection from the winery’s Naramata Bench “Desperation Hill” vineyard. While an excellent ‘regular’ version of the wine sells for $23, this one is simply “more of everything” as John Schreiner put it in his 92-point review. Winery Direct $35

Meyer 2013 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir: In contrast to the fruit forward Reimer wine, the Okanagan Falls home vineyard has produced a darker, earthier, more spiced iteration of Pinot Noir. The wine was recently named Best Pinot Noir at the new Northern Lands Wine Competition in Edmonton. A larger production run of 500 cases should yield higher availability than the Reimer, but given Meyer’s growing popularity at home and in several countries abroad, even those bottles won’t be around for much longer. Winery Direct $40

Laughing Stock 2013 Pinot Noir: It’s been a few years since Winemaker David Enns produced a Pinot Noir (his sole vintages being 2004, 2006, and 2008). In the meantime the Enns’ have been developing their Osoyoos vineyard and crafting one of the country’s finest Syrah. The time finally came for a return to Pinot Noir, sourced from a small Naramata Bench vineyard. Only 124 cases were produced, and I was lucky enough to receive two bottles in my Preferred Share Wine Club shipment. Opening one revealed an intense, bold take on the variety, with 14.6% alcohol no less! Holding the second bottle for 3-4 years should be no problem. Winery Direct $32

Orofino 2012 Passion Pit Cabernet Sauvignon: My summer Collector’s Club case contained a number of juicy gems, including Scout Vineyard Riesling and Syrah, but the Cabernet was especially desirable. The whole winery team was present at the BCWAS Gala, pouring this one among several others, to great acclaim. With the wine offering exemplary intensity and richness, Orofino provides more evidence that the warm Similkameen Valley is the place to go for ripe Cabernet in BC. John Schreiner’s 92-point review sums it up nicely: “A tour de force.” Winery Direct $29

BC Wine Dinner: Autumn Flavours

After a very busy summer the four couples in our wine club finally got the chance to gather in one place for dinner recently. It was a chance to catch up and share some culinary creations over a few bottles of BC wine. The autumn weather must have inspired all of us in a similar fashion, as light red wines and warm comfort foods provided pleasantly pervasive. Some old favourites and a few new releases offered us plenty to discuss alongside delicious food pairings from our respective kitchens.

Some irresistible cheeses and cocktails couldn’t be turned down, while hors d’oeuvres were finalized and accessorized. What we soon discovered with glee were Walnut-Mushroom “Neat Balls” and a trio of mouth-watering dipping sauces in savoury flavours of barbecue, mustard, and marinara. These tasty little nuggets partnered with a couple of youthful red wines to get us started. The Arrowleaf 2012 Zweigelt displayed a striking amethyst colour in the glass that immediately caught my eye. The gorgeously smooth, soft fruit texture offered generous elements of leather and clove, pairing particularly well with the marinara sauce.

We next cracked open a bottle of Cellar Hand’s budget-friendly 2012 Punch Down Red for some comparative analysis. The Red, plus “Free Run White”, come from Black Hills’ second label line-up, reportedly crafted by the winery’s cellar hands themselves from a few barrels and full experimental latitude. The Punch Down Red provided some immediate contrast to the Zweigelt – jammier on the nose and palate, with a fuller body and sweeter flavours. It was quite easy-drinking and enjoyable overall, coming from the generous 2012 vintage that yielded bountiful and ripe fruit in the southern Okanagan, where Black Hills farms the Merlot, Cabernets, and Syrah found in the blend.

Having dealt with the initial hunger pangs, we settled down and prepared for the appetizer course, taken in hand by myself and my wife for this meal. Our inspiration came from the quintessential fall fruit – pumpkin! Reviewing old issues of the BC Liquor Stores TASTE Magazine I came across Baked Pumpkin and Onion Dumplings with Herb Dip, which we then accessorized with a creamy Apple and Blue Cheese Salad. Contrary to the recipe photo, our Dumplings wouldn’t stay closed, but at least the flavours stuck around to pair with Tantalus 2008 Old Vines Riesling and Orofino 2013 Gamay. Although I had the feeling either wine would pair nicely with the dish, I couldn’t resist sharing both bottles, and suspected few complaints would be voiced.

The Old Vines Riesling was released back in 2011 – fairly delayed for a 2008 white, but Tantalus likes to ensure sufficient bottle aging for this legendary wine. Even with another three years in bottle it still presented youthful vibrancy: generous citrus aromas carried through to the focused and racy palate, where petrol character emerged. Even on its own, let alone dancing with the sweet and savoury pumpkin and rich blue cheese, the wine was enough to elicit accolades around the table. Fortunately the Platinum Medal Gamay proved no slouch, providing an additional round of intensity to entertain our palates: bright, fresh cranberry and cherry fruit flavours plus a sprinkling of cinnamon spice made for another adept pumpkin partner. Orofino suggests chilled summer enjoyment – which I can vouch for with enthusiasm – but the wine’s pure enjoyment factor provides the versatility for all-year enjoyment.

As we sipped a little bit more from the four bottles already available our entree course emerged from the oven in all it’s crispy, gooey glory. Three-cheese macaroni presented by our hosts was said to contain Romano, Cheddar, Cottage cheese, and some sour cream for good measure. To calm our beating hearts some roasted Brussels Sprouts and a crisp green salad provided balance and a few vitamins on the side. Apparently the two-bottle concept was broadly in mind, as we received with glee Painted Rock 2013 Chardonnay and Moon Curser 2011 Syrah, two of my personal favourites.

John Skinner and his team at Painted Rock have been fine-tuning the Chardonnay for a few years via painstaking work in the vineyard and at harvest. Multiple passes to pick clusters at ideal ripeness and acidity are labour intensive, but the results show in the fruit forward expression that easily absorbed the 5-month French oak treatment. We relished the nicely integrated, complex palate, showing fresh citrus and stone fruit with food-friendly toasty accents. The creamy and crispy macaroni made just as nice with the Gold-medal Syrah as well, from which Winemaker Chris Tolley has coaxed generous floral cherry aromas, supported by pepper and a hint of bacon. Cherries and plum on the smooth palate led into milk chocolate raspberries at the finish, giving us plenty to observe and admire.

Chock-full of pasta we had to find room for the always anticipated dessert, an assembly of homemade meringue, ice cream, and a crunchy pretzel stick. The Skor Meringue was topped with Scotch Ice Cream, and paired to Kettle Valley’s Caboose fortified red wine, a blend of ripe Malbec and Petit Verdot from the Naramata Bench. I’m always excited to try this rich prize, produced via the Solera method, yielding a blend of many vintages that promises to  increase in complexity each year. We readily absorbed the alcoholic tingle on the wine’s yeasty nose, with a jammy character soon wafting about. Interacting with the intense ice cream produced a Kirsch character that finished with bright blueberries and plenty of satisfied smiles.

As the Caboose is presented in half-size bottles the dessert team had wisely brought two, consumed with rapidity as we wound down and remarked on the delicious meal. The creative contributions of everyone involved left us feeling very lucky once again to enjoy such great food, wine, and company!

BCWAS Bus Tour 2014 Acquisitions

The annual wine country pilgrimage to join the BC Wine Appreciation Society fall bus tour provides one of my best opportunities for wine shopping at the source. Although I like to visit the Similkameen and Okanagan Valleys during the summer, it’s only once autumn begins do the red wines I particularly covet begin to appear anew. As the Bus Tour was scheduled to take place in the northern Okanagan surrounding Kelowna this year I knew most of my shopping would be done on the way there. My journey would take me via Osoyoos and Oliver, where red varieties like Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet thrive.

In the Similkameen Valley I made sure to stop at Orofino Vineyards to offer my greetings, whilst patiently awaiting my semi-annual “Collector’s Club” shipment later this fall. I very gratefully picked up some of the winery’s Platinum Award-winning Gamay to be served at an upcoming BCWAS event. Down the road at Seven Stones I was lucky enough to find owner George Hanson behind the tasting room bar, and we spent some time catching up before I departed with what should be some superb wines from the 2012 vintage: George’s small lot Cabernet Sauvignon (235 cases produced) and Syrah (only 125 cases) often sell out in short order. I took advantage of the wide selection of beautiful jewellery for sale to pick up a little something for my wife, while George passed along some tongue-in-cheek marital advice to go along with the silver necklace.

Passing through Osoyoos I had the entire length of the Okanagan Valley ahead of me, with wineries left and right as I inched north towards Kelowna. At Burrowing Owl I snatched up a bottle of brand new 2012 Syrah, just bottled last month! At least a couple more new releases are upcoming later this fall, so I’ll have to hope I can order them from the winery (which fortunately ships in quantities as low as two bottles). Nearby, a visit to Black Hills was long planned so as to finally obtain a wooden box for my patiently-collected vertical of the winery’s Nota Bene red blend. The only way to get one of these beautiful boxes is to buy the pricey six-bottle portfolio collection. While the included whites will surely find a happy home with me in the short run, I relish the opportunity to cellar recently released 2012 Syrah and the exclusive 2012 Carménère. It’s no surprise the ultra-rare Carménère isn’t entered into competition, but the Syrah was awarded a Silver medal at this year’s National Wine Awards: judge and critic Anthony Gismondi recently suggested another two years in bottle would be ideal while penning his 88-point review.

Having finished my business on the Black Sage Bench I traversed the valley floor west to the Golden Mile, where a handful of stops proved quite productive. At Road 13 Vineyards I picked up the newest vintage of the icon red “Fifth Element”, having missed the formal release by mere days at the time of my summer visit. With the 2011 in hand I now have a five year vertical reaching back to 2006 (the 2008 was never produced). I also couldn’t resist a bottle of the 2011 Jackpot Petit Verdot, of which only 67 cases were produced from some stellar Similkameen Valley fruit. I’ve been awaiting this wine, as I was lucky enough to try a stunning barrel sample 18 months ago during the 2013 Vancouver International Wine Festival. I took the opportunity to bring home a few bottles of newly released 2011 Sparkling Chenin Blanc as well, a long-time house favourite of friends and family, and recent Gold medal-winner at the National Wine Awards.

Up the road at Tinhorn Creek I swung through the tasting room and picked up my latest Crush Club order, consisting of a series of reserve Oldfield Series wines. The autumn release of reliable 2011 Oldfield Merlot and 2011 Oldfield 2Bench Red had originally provided for three bottles of each in my Club six-pack. However, seeking a bit more variety I had requested some allowed substitutions, consisting of one bottle of 2010 Oldfield Series Pinot Noir, and another of the 2012 Kerner Icewine. Early reviews of the 2011 reds have been positive, from the elegant Merlot, to the floral, fresh, and ripe 2Bench Red. With the clock ticking I quickly jumped next door to Fairview Cellars, where I squeaked in before the 5pm closing and came out with a bottle of 2012 “Crooked Post” Pinot Noir. While Proprietor Bill Eggert’s bigger 2012 reds remain aging in bottle until a spring 2015 release, the Pinot Noir comes from the first year of full production in his new Eagle Bluff vineyard. It’s a lighter wine than many as Bill doesn’t bleed off any juice for Rosé, but it deftly displays the consistent quality and purity for which he is known.

Over the course of the two day bus tour I managed to find a few more gems, but I kept my purchasing in check, having added plenty to my cellar just on the way there! On the first day I took a chance on Arrowleaf’s 2012 Solstice Pinot Noir, after being quite impressed by the other very good value whites and reds we tasted there. Amongst those wines was the delicious 2013 Special Select Late Harvest Vidal, Gold medal-winner at the 2014 All Canadian Wine Championships. A couple bottles of Vidal joined the Pinot Noir, with the thought that at least one might serve well for future gifting opportunities. Day two brought us to SpierHead in the morning, where the winery’s impressive Pinot Noir was still awaiting bottling, but I was pleased to acquire a 2012 “Vanguard”. The 2012 may be the final vintage of this red blend as SpierHead focuses on Pinot Noir going forward. After lunch at Tantalus Vineyards I picked up a pre-ordered collection of 2011 Old Vines Riesling Natural Brut – purchased in advance this spring while still available for sale. A bottle of 2013 Syrah Icewine couldn’t be resisted as I recalled fondly the 2010 vintage I shared with friends nearly three years ago.

A relaxing trip home the following day saw me swing by only a couple more wineries to boost my haul, starting with an exciting visit to the brand new Sandhill Tasting Room in downtown Kelowna. The expansive new space is a huge upgrade from the previous room, boasting generous natural light, colourful displays, and extensive lounge space for event hosting. Admittedly on a Monday morning it was rather underutilized, but I can imagine plenty of room-filling functions are anticipated in the months and years to come. I carefully perused well-stocked shelves, to ensure I didn’t miss out on the rare Small Lots collection bottles, many of which are exclusive to the tasting room: into the remaining trunk space went 2011 Malbec (350 cases produced), Merlot (150 cases), and Petit Verdot (275 cases), plus 2012 Chardonnay (125 cases).

Finally, in West Kelowna I made a short visit to Quails’ Gate in search of any winery-exclusive surprises, something I’ve come to expect from the Stewart family winery. My hunch was vindicated when I came across 2011 “Dijon Clone Selection” Pinot Noir, a wine last produced from the 2008 vintage, and well received at that time as well. Considering the 2011 isn’t even mentioned on the winery’s web site I can only assume a meagre amount was produced: at least 2,111 bottles though, considering I took home that particular numbered bottle. Unfortunately I seem to have just missed the release of several special 25th Anniversary wines, including the winery’s first Syrah! At least a bottle of rich, luscious 2013 Botrytis-affected Optima will help to soothe that frustration, putting a particularly sweet finish on my 2014 cellar compilation.

BCWAS Bus Tour 2014: East Kelowna

After an exciting day touring a number of wineries in Lake Country, members on the BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour had worked up a healthy appetite for dinner. Refreshed by a swim at Kelowna’s Sheraton Four Points, plus a beer or two, we hopped back into our buses and zipped down to the renowned CedarCreek Estate Winery in the city’s southern reaches. CedarCreek’s steeply slopped vineyards and Okanagan Lake waterfront location were set to provide a memorable outdoor meal as the sun slowly set in the stunning blue sky.

Before we took our places for dinner Winemaker Darryl Brooker was eager to show off the verdant vineyards from which he harvests. With some trepidation as we headed steeply uphill a vigorous march through lush Merlot and Pinot Noir brought us to a table set amongst the vines. From there Darryl was able to reference the specific vineyard blocks surrounding us, and detail their surprising differentiation. We sipped lemon-lime 2013 Riesling and nibbled on Halibut Ceviche from the Terrace Restaurant kitchen below as Darryl pointed out landmarks including his own home even further uphill, and a new winery under hasty construction immediately next door. The Martin’s Lane Winery being built by Von Mandl Family Estates (i.e., Mission Hill), CedarCreek’s new owner, will be devoted to premium Pinot Noir, and Darryl has been tasked with leading the international search for a winemaker!

A second sample from our lofty perch above the lake provided a taste of the 2011 Platinum Block 2 Pinot Noir, with accompanying Duck Prosciutto on Toast Point. Despite being separated by only 100 feet grapes from Blocks 2 and 4 show remarkably different qualities, which the winery further explored recently by digging exploratory trenches. Prevalent sand and stones in Block 2, closer to the lake, contribute to a lighter, more delicate wine: we tasted a fruit forward, floral profile in a wine drinking quite well in the present. Further uphill in Block 4 thicker clay deposits have been shown to yield a more intense, heavier Pinot Noir worthy of aging, which we would soon be enjoying at dinner. An easier descent with less daunting views led us back downhill to where Chef Jeremy Tucker and his team had prepared a marvellous meal awaiting our enjoyment.

In the open-air Pavilion just above the Rose Garden (a no doubt spectacular wedding venue) we sat down for the Tour’s sole winery dinner this year. The Ceviche and Prosciutto amuse-bouche had calmed our appetites somewhat, leaving time for presentation of the mouth-watering first course: Roasted Butternut Squash Soup was exquisite on its own, let alone with the winery’s exceptional 2013 Platinum Viognier. The wine’s clean body and ripe stone fruit served to maximize the soup’s fruity character while meshing nicely with the rich, creamy texture. Our introduction to the “brooding” 2011 Platinum Block 4 Pinot Noir came next alongside Yarrow Meadows Duck Breast – higher tannin and acidity showed off the wine’s food pairing possibilities and generous ageability.

A triplet of entree options provided for multiple wine pairings, and while some members enjoyed Lamb Rack with Shiraz Cabernet or Farmer’s Vegetable Tower with Merlot I couldn’t resist Seared Sea Scallops. Complemented by Chanterelle mushrooms, roasted cauliflower puree, and Pomme William, the scrumptious scallops danced a duet with 2012 Platinum Block 5 Chardonnay: fully integrated oak, ideal balance, and a long, creamy, apple and melon finish left me in a state of utter bliss. After respite to breathe and collect ourselves the dessert course was served as the stars emerged in the night sky. Guests chose between Valrhona Caramelia Chocolate Mocha Mousse Latté or a vibrant, fresh-baked Lemon Tart. Without any dedicated dessert wines available save a sold out Madeira-style (Platinum “M”), CedarCreek’s dry table wines had to pull double duty with dessert. Most guests wisely avoided close-knit pairing, while still enjoying the zingy 2013 Platinum Riesling and smooth, spicy flavours of the Cabernet Franc-dominated 2011 Cabernet Merlot. With fully sated appetites we eventually ambled over to the Wine Shop – held open for our benefit – and stocked up on the evening’s favourites before the short journey back to the hotel, and a restful sleep.

On Sunday morning we received a slight respite, as the bus wasn’t scheduled to depart the hotel until 8:45am, a full half-hour later than Saturday’s early start. Those who continued the good times later Saturday night no doubt appreciated the organizing team’s charity. The day’s itinerary included four wineries in the city’s historic eastern district, beginning with a trip back five generations at The View Winery. Inside the ninety-year-old former fruit packinghouse-turned-winery we received a generous welcome from Tasting Room Manager Jill Hansen and staff member Colin. As we warmed up our palates with 2012 Distraction Frizzante they explained the amusing story behind the winery’s logo, in which owner Jennifer Molgat’s stiletto heel was pushed into service as a bottle stopper. The Frizzante’s creamy mousse and crisp blend of Riesling, Optima, Gewürztraminer, and Pinotage made for an ideal breakfast wine! Tart citrus and green apple in 2012 Riesling led into strongly perfumed 2013 Gewürztraminer, a blend of purchased fruit necessitated by a devastating hailstorm last year. Reserve 2012 Pinotage yielded bright plum fruit amongst hints of leather, toast, caramel, and spicy aromatics. We concluded with an exciting fortified late harvest blend of Müller-Thurgau and Ehrenfelser: this 2013 “Well-Heeled” provided delightfully clean, fresh aromas and a light, delicate palate that pleasantly surprised.

A short distance away we had the good fortune to visit petite SpierHead Winery, where owners Bill & Marina Knutson had generously prepared their picnic area with complimentary cheese and olives. The Knutson’s passion for their young winery – already racking up prestigious awards – was evident as Bill addressed our group and detailed their recent successes and challenges. The same hail storm that hit The View last year also struck SpierHead, but the winery has bounced back and even planted several thousand new Pinot Noir vines this spring. We sampled the 2013 Chardonnay to begin, showing delicate apples and melon from the lightly oaked blend that includes some of the Musque clone. A highly refreshing 2012 Riesling put a smile on my face with dry, racy lime flavours and a slight hint of petrol on the palate. The superb 2013 Pinot Gris was served with hesitation – because it has been selling much too quickly! A very attractive nose of tropical fruit blossoms led into a juicy body and silky texture that served well to exemplify the variety locally. Pinot Noir 2013 Rosé provided reminders of my other local favourites, with a subtle, fresh nose and earthy notes of cherry and strawberry in the dry palate.

To conclude our tasting at SpierHead we covered the end of one era and the early stages of an exciting focus on Pinot Noir. While Bill Knutson had originally envisioned a strong portfolio of Bordeaux-style red wines (necessitating purchased grapes from the Black Sage Bench), the early varietal bottlings are already gone and the blended reds will soon follow. We sampled the 2011 Pursuit blend, dominated by Merlot, showing toasty cherries, leather, and a hint of bell pepper that soon opened up nicely to finish with subtle molasses. The flagship 2012 Vanguard, from an admittedly easier vintage, smelled distinctly darker, with blackberries and plums on a longer finish. Both product lines are not long for this world however, as the Knutson’s have yielded to the overwhelming success of Pinot Noir from their estate vineyard. We followed Bill down to the winery where he excitedly poured tank samples of 2013 Cuvee Pinot Noir, headed into bottle within days. This exclusive flagship wine will only yield 100 cases, and garnered extensive praise from the assembled guests (plus a pre-order for the BCWAS cellar!). Three additional Pinot Noirs will be produced this year, including a Wine Club-specific blend assembled by the Club members themselves during a summer winery workshop!

With the area’s wineries so close together it was only another few minutes in the bus before we arrived at our next destination. At Tantalus Vineyards we had a surely delicious lunch to look forward to, courtesy of the talented team at Joy Road Catering. We were met by General Manager Jane Hatch and Winemaker David Paterson, who took the time to show us around the rolling vineyards before a tour of the winery itself. With recent purchases of adjacent land, Tantalus now owns 75 contiguous acres, 50 of which are currently or soon to be under vine. A ten acre forest and dozens of lively bee hives help to reverse some of the negative ecological consequences of monoculture – part of the company’s focus on sustainability. Inside BC’s first LEED-certified winery David discussed his increasing use of “ambient” (i.e., native) yeast, which encourages a more complex ecosystem in the tank (and serving to remind us that wine is a living thing).

Back in the gorgeously decorated, sleek and airy tasting room, David led our group through a tasting of Tantalus’ focused portfolio – centered almost exclusively on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. The 2012 varietal Chardonnay was first, after a year of bottle age following twelve months in barrel. Only a small proportion of the wine was fermented malolactically, with no stirring of the lees, but the end result produced an elegant palate with flavours of buttered popcorn and spiced caramel. A selection of Pinot Noir began with the 2012 “Juveniles”: the estate’s youngest plantings yielded a delicate, pretty nose from an easy-drinking wine with light tannins and a baking spice finish. The “Clone 93” 2012 Pinot Noir smelled darker and earthier, with a fuller, more complex palate, from a relatively rare German clone planted in 1985. The regular 2012 Pinot Noir is described as the winery’s flagship red varietal, and presented a more savoury nose with even a bit of barnyard character; the bright fruit and full texture hinted at a generous future – David suggested at least another year in bottle would be warranted.

Tantalus’ celebrated Riesling was presented in both common iterations (with a third soon to follow), proudly showing off a local benchmark. As David suggested, the warm 2013 vintage yielded a citrus palate favouring lemon, tangerine, and blood orange rather than lime – sweet and peachy but balanced by acidity. From vines planted in 1978, the very ageable “Old Vines” Riesling is always two years behind, having spent extensive time in bottle before release. The 2011 vintage is felt by many at the winery to be one of the best yet, with slightly higher acidity and nearly one third less sugar than the ‘regular’ version (11.2 g/L vs. 15.8 g/L). Textbook Riesling character on the nose included some light petrol and focused citrus, with zingy acidity bound to rouse one’s palate. Having tasted older versions I know it continues to improve for years, with the wine’s true limits probably having yet to be tested!

As the afternoon began in earnest it became time for lunch, and we were lead across a grassy expanse nearby to Proprietor Eric Savics’ holiday house, where tables had been set up on the lower patio. Joy Road Catering’s very own Cameron Smith was present with his team to serve our mouth-watering meal, which began with glasses of Tantalus Old Vines Riesling Brut 2011. This rare sparkling Riesling showed off very fresh, but dry fruit (3 g/L residual sugar) and brisk acidity, with a tightly integrated, fine mousse. David Paterson explained that the precise stream of bubbles in the center of each glass was due to fructose (as opposed to glucose) fermentation that has yielded highly dissolved carbon dioxide. To augment the small lot Riesling Brut, and expand the winery’s sparkling portfolio, David has over 500 cases of 2013 Blanc de Noir currently en tirage, reviving a wine last produced from the 2004 vintage.

Refreshed from the Brut, we next sipped 2013 Riesling alongside Apple Slaw with Carmelis Goat Cheese Sformatto and Garden Herbs. The rustic but elegant dish incorporated shallots, grainy Dijon mustard, and a fresh apple cider vinaigrette. A glass of 2012 Pinot Noir followed with lip-smacking Duck Confit: truffled jus, organic black lentils, Swiss chard, and an heirloom beet puree rounded out the artistic dish. The salty, crispy duck and earthy lentils were a hit with the perfectly paired Pinot, leaving us longing for more of both! With a few refills here and there if you smiled at the right people, lunch concluded with platters of dark chocolate chunks to satisfy any sugary cravings. Soon the wine shop beckoned, and loaded for bear we eventually re-boarded the buses for our final destination, with plenty of thanks to Jane, David, and Cam.

By the time we arrived at Sperling Vineyards Sunday was well and truly living up to its name. In the middle of Sperling’s unique (Vidal) vineyard labyrinth – meticulously planned by Owner and Winemaker Ann Sperling – some welcome shade was to be found. There, Ann’s niece Jill Branby, the winery’s Sales & Marketing Manager, had prepared a broad collection of wines for us to taste. Pinot Gris 2013 had come from 20-year-old vines, producing a crisp and bright wine with dry citrus and stone fruit flavours. A 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé embraced the varietal with earthy aromas and dry, tart cranberry-strawberry flavours. Sperling’s Old Vines Riesling (from 1.7 acres planted in 1978) seemed sweeter than the recent Tantalus offering, with lower acidity; on the very easy-drinking palate lime and mineral character came through. The 2013 "Market White”, a blend of Bacchus, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer elicited a “Wow!” resulting from the beautiful nose of fresh fruit salad, followed by well balanced sugar and focused apricot flavours. Another attractive orchard nose came from the 2012 “Sper…itz”, a lightly effervescent blend of Pearl of Csaba and Bacchus that proved very refreshing under the blazing sun.

The red program at Sperling is geographically apt, with Pinot Noir and Foch anchoring the portfolio. The 2012 Pinot Noir was said to come from fairly young vines, with multiple clones (144, 777, and 828) blended after fermentation. High acid and medium-to-firm tannins encourage aging, and the fruit proved quite prominent on the finish – all suggesting an optimistic future ahead. The 2011 Old Vines Foch comes from a 9-acre vineyard planted by Ann’s father in the 1960’s, now culled down to just 2.5 acres. The intense flavours of dark cherry and dates actually suggested higher alcohol than actually exists (14.5%), to yield an almost Port-like finish. Another rung up was the 2010 Reserve Foch, with a heady, rich nose that begged for a warm fire on a cold night – not exactly a summer wine, but highly enjoyable in the right circumstances. We finished – the tasting, the day, and the tour – with 2011 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, providing a very flavourful burst of lychee and tropical flowers. As many people visited the wine shop other members explored the grounds and antique farming equipment, with some even venturing further into the labyrinth. Meanwhile Jill’s two children handed out freshly picked sweet Concord grapes. The final purchases joined us on the buses and we soon said a wine- and sun-induced sleepy goodbye to another stellar BCWAS Bus Tour.

BC Paired Luncheon at VIWF 2014

The closing weekend of the Vancouver International Wine Festival includes numerous thematic luncheons highlighting regions or wine styles/varieties. I often favour the “BC Paired” lunch organized by the BC Wine Institute, showing off dozens of VQA wines from nearly every BC winery attending the festival. This year’s event witnessed a new venue at the Fairmont Pacific Rim, home of ORU Restaurant. A last-minute change from the Restaurant itself to an upstairs ballroom did nothing to diminish the menu from Executive Chef Darren Brown. As it turned out, the Fairmont’s ballroom was beautifully appointed, and featured expansive views of the north shore and the sleek Convention Centre – more than sufficient for the task at hand!

Upon arrival, my wife and I found a generous food spread in the centre of the room, with wineries wisely spaced around the perimeter. A very active risotto station was busily plating ramekins of seafood fennel and foraged mushroom versions. The provided pamphlet and guide included the full grazing menu (with suggested wine pairings), but to be honest I saw very little of the proffered delights: guests descended on the food with rapidity and I made the choice to focus on wine tasting in the limited time available. Quick passes gave me a chance to enjoy at least a couple of the many delicious table hors d’oeuvres: Truffled Bruschetta, Roasted Baby Beet Salad, Crostini Bufala Margherita, Wild Mushroom Arancini, Duck Confit Rillette, Dungeness Crabcake, Braised Ancho Shortrib, Qualicum Beach Scallop, Sake Miso Sablefish, and Cotechino Meatballs were snatched up with vigour by those in attendance. Oft-refreshed artisanal cheeses provided for additional pairing opportunities, including riches from Moonstruck, Salt Spring Island, Natural Pastures, Golden Ears Cheesecrafters, and Poplar Grove.

I admittedly didn’t make it to all of the twenty-four tables – representing nearly every one of the twenty-seven BC wineries attending the Festival – and took an approach much more random than methodical. Each winery was pouring two wines, often unique from those poured in the afternoon and evening Festival Tasting Room sessions. Overall the focus seemed to be aimed more closely at value-driven, food-friendly wines, rather than the rarities and icon bottles opened in the Tasting Room. A couple of 2012 Gewurztraminers started things off nicely, including a surprising and quite tasty lime-dominated, creamy version from Bench 1775. Nearby, Haywire took aim at the perfumed side of the grape, and their clean and delicate Gewurztraminer helped illustrate the range of styles that can be produced.

At the Gray Monk table family proprietor Steven Heiss was pouring a pair of opposites alongside Charton-Hobbs Representative Taliesyn Huxtable. The winery’s 2012 Pinot Blanc was showing crisp orchard fruit flavours and a hint of light spice on the fuller body. With 15 grams of residual sugar it’s not dry, but bright acidity ensures balance. At more than twice the price, the 2010 Odyssey Meritage ($35) represented the other end of the spectrum. The big red comes courtesy of grapes from Harry McWatters’ Black Sage Road vineyard, and is pleasantly approachable now, with smooth dark fruit and hints of red bell pepper and even some black pepper. Since a direct comparison to Gray Monk’s Meritage was mere steps away we tried out Jackson-Triggs’ 2010 Sunrock Meritage, from vineyards even further south. The Osoyoos Merlot component jumped out immediately with the olive aromas I tend to associate with the region; and burnt sugar flavours yielded a sweeter palate than Gray Monk’s version.

A full Merlot from further north, on the Golden Mile side of the valley, came in the form of Hester Creek’s 2011 Reserve. The block-specific designation that began with the winery’s Cabernet Franc has been extended to the Merlot, which comes from Block 2, planted in estate vineyards nearly four decades ago. Aromas of toast and jam led into a smoky palate showing the prominent use of oak I’ve come to anticipate from Hester Creek. To refresh our palates we sipped from the winery’s 2010 Character White, a proprietary blend that surprised us with a fuller palate than expected given the light, tropical nose.

By the entrance to the room was John Skinner, proudly showing off his brand new 2011 red wines from Painted Rock. While John was only pouring his Merlot and Syrah, I recently got the chance to taste the new Cabernet Sauvignon and Red Icon as well. All the 2011 wines possess a bright, youthful acidity that amplifies the fruit flavours. The Merlot’s expressive, fruity nose flows nicely into fresh blueberry flavours, and the Syrah impressed us with particularly fresh fruit – cherries and red plums – followed by leather, toffee, and white pepper characteristics. (Tasting the Cabernet revealed elegant leather and mint, and the Red Icon is enjoyably rich and spicy, led by 30% Malbec in this annually-unique blend.) The manageable tannins throughout Painted Rock’s 2011 wines make them drinkable already while the fruit is so expressive, but the acidity promises healthy aging potential to allow for the development of additional complexity.

On the other side of the room Poplar Grove was showing off some rarities, in contrast to the more widely available wines on offer at most of the tables. The 2012 Viognier (soon to be replaced by the 2013 vintage) was one of the highlights of the event for us, with mouth-watering tropical, vanilla aromas and a rich citrus palate. It was actually challenging to pick out many unique characteristics from this well-rounded, mouth-filling wine; we just knew we wanted more – too bad it’s winery-exclusive (with just 400 cases produced)! Similarly challenging to acquire is the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, which showed deep, dark fruit flavours of raisins and dates. Despite its rusty colouring the wine could benefit from additional aging given still-noticeable tannins – alcohol approaching 15% will certainly help to preserve this big wine for years to come.

At the nearby Sandhill table Winemaker Howard Soon was more than happy to pose for a few pictures, while pouring juicy 2011 Merlot and a big, flavourful 2012 Pinot Gris. The well-rounded white had layers of tree fruit flavours covering apple, pear, and peach, plus notes of fresh grapes. Of particular reason to rejoice was the news that Sandhill will be opening an expansive new tasting room in a few short weeks. The dark, cramped boutique attached to the Calona Winery in Kelowna will be replaced by a newly renovated space next door that will do wonders to better show Howard’s many superb single-vineyard wines. Renderings show an open, airy room with natural light and original wood beams, plus much improved exterior signage – I can’t wait to visit in person soon!

From another Kelowna champion, Tantalus’ General Manager Jane Hatch had the winery’s internationally celebrated Riesling open to share. The 2012 vintage was showing just a hint of earthy petrol on the attractive nose, with flavourful lime and hints of vanilla following through on the palate. After a long, clean finish we happily tried out the 2011 Chardonnay as well, where the creamy palate and McIntosh apple flavours made for similar satisfaction. In discussing the upcoming 2011 Old Vines Riesling (enjoying limited pre-release at the Festival) Jane shared that it was – in her opinion – the best vintage ever of this extremely popular wine. Even though the Old Vines version is typically released two years later than the regular Riesling, it can still improve with additional bottle aging, up to several years (from vintage) according to Jane. I was certainly left pleased to have already obtained a couple bottles from the on-site Festival store.

While many northern hemisphere wineries, BC included, poured their 2012 whites at the Festival, Harry McWatters risked bottle shock and opened his TIME Estate Winery 2013 White Meritage. The blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon appeared no worse for wear despite being only five months from harvest (and just a few weeks in bottle), with creamy vanilla and grapefruit on the nose, and tropical fruits like starfruit and kiwi coming across on the palate. At Harry’s side was his daughter Christa-Lee, helping to show a slightly more mature release in the form of rich 2011 Red Meritage (released last year). A fruit-forward nose and bright palate trended towards darker fruit after more consideration, while youthful tannins make for myriad food pairings and/or several additional years of potential aging.

Before departing for the afternoon Festival Tasting in the Convention Centre we made sure to stop by Tinhorn Creek’s table. Viticulturist Andrew Moon was happy to pour samples of the winery’s 2012 Pinot Gris, just as the new 2013 is appearing on store shelves. The additional age on the nicely dry 2012 vintage hasn’t diminished it whatsoever, as the wonderful creamy texture remains in force – thanks to 30% Malolactic fermentation and two months of lees stirring. Fortunately, precisely the same treatment was applied to the 2013 vintage, which should be equally enjoyable over the coming months. We couldn’t resist a few sips of 2011 Cabernet Franc either, released last August and currently a rarity in local stores. I always enjoy the refined flavours of Winemaker Sandra Oldfield’s Cabernet Franc: red berry fruit (think raspberry seeds) with hints of leather, toast, and even some licorice.

There were many more wineries and wines present from which we didn’t manage to sample, but I’m glad to have made it to some long-time favourites, and to have caught up with some old friends. Included among those people are the great Communications and Marketing staff at the BC Wine Institute, who have graciously hosted me at the BC Paired Lunch for three years running. Many thanks to the Wine Institute, the Wine Festival, and to Heth PR for facilitating my media pass to the Lunch!

Wines of BC Vintage 2012 Preview

Yesterday afternoon the fine folks at the BC Wine Institute brought together several Okanagan winemakers and viticulturists to discuss the 2012 vintage and preview some of the their upcoming wines. The panel discussion and tasting took place in Hawksworth Restaurant’s beautiful upstairs York Room, and included representatives from regions including the Golden Mile and Black Sage benches, Naramata, Summerland, and Kelowna. Unfortunately there wasn’t any contribution available from outside the Okanagan Valley, such as the vibrant Similkameen Valley, but the expertise and experience on offer was much appreciated by the many attendees.

Tinhorn Creek’s President and Winemaker Sandra Oldfield was first to speak (as she had to leave early), alongside her Vineyard Manager Andrew Moon. In response to facilitator Anthony Gismondi’s query as to what she’ll remember the most about the 2012 vintage Sandra was quick to mention the two weeks of rain that soaked the valley at the end of harvest. That much sustained rain was a unique occurrence, but fortunately only set Tinhorn Creek back a slight amount as they don’t dry farm their vines any longer. Dry-farmed vines would have immediately absorbed all that water and drastically diluted the grapes and resulting wine. Sandra’s distaste for dry-framing was brought about in part due to the high tannin levels it historically yielded in her wines; now Tinhorn Creek carefully but deliberately water their 150 acres of vineyards by drip-irrigation (and steadily declining amounts of overhead irrigation).

Two new white wines from the 2012 vintage were offered as samples from Tinhorn Creek: the varietal Gewurztraminer will be officially released May first, and the “2Bench White” blend will follow in June. The Gewurztraminer comes from estate Golden Mile vineyards, and shows a lychee-heavy focus on fruit rather than floral notes (my preference); it was stainless steel fermented to yield less than 13% alcohol and a moderate 7 grams per liter of residual sugar. The 2Bench White is a popular and food-friendly blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Muscat Ottonel from both sides of the valley. It’s quite dry (only 2 g/L of sugar), fresh and clean, with a long finish of tree fruit flavours. No matter the year, there’s often a bottle of this versatile and dependable wine chilling in my fridge!

To cover vintage conditions in greater detail from the Black Sage Bench perspective were Sandhill’s Senior Winemaker Howard Soon and Viticulturist Nathan Goltz, who manages the Sandhill Estate Vineyard along with his father Robert. Following an illuminating historical overview of local growing-degree days Howard was sure to mention his philosophy of avoiding micromanagement in the vineyard, and his trust in experts like Nathan to take care of the vines properly until harvest. Nathan demonstrated his detailed approach with a lengthy discussion about leaf removal practices, and the unexpected complexities involved in balancing the choices involved.

Another new 2012 white wine was provided by Sandhill in the form of their varietal Sauvignon Blanc, already awarded a silver medal at the New World International Wine Competition in California. The winery reports the grapes were hand-harvested from the Black Sage Bench and whole cluster pressed to yield 1,200 cases coming out on May first. It has an obvious citrus and gooseberry nose, and a mellow tropical palate with few grassy influences. An appealing clean, relatively dry finish keeps the wine refreshing. Howard pointed out his preference for creating wines that pair well with local cuisine, such as the many BC seafood dishes that will mesh nicely with the Sauvignon Blanc.

Representing the Naramata Bench on the east side of Okanagan Lake was Renaissance man Robert Van Westen, who serves as both viticulturist and winemaker at his namesake winery Van Westen Vineyards (not to mention as an often-frustrated cherry farmer as well). Rob walked the audience through his many vineyard locations throughout Naramata: multiple small vineyard parcels keep him busy travelling back and forth along Naramata Road between at least five sites. He’ll have to work even harder this year given his assessment that spring is two weeks ahead of normal; combining that with a two-week delay recuperating from recent surgery puts him a month behind in his opinion.

Van Westen’s whites tend to be released later in the year than most: the Gold-medal-winning 2011 Viognier just came out in December. Rob managed to bring a tank sample of the 2012 Viognier however, and it’s already a very good wine, lush, supremely balanced, and awash in delicate tropical fruit and a hint of ginger – it’s going to be a long wait until this December! As if that wasn’t enough Rob also brought along his 2009 “V” red blend, so named as it is his first wine to contain all five Bordeaux varieties. Three hundred cases were released last fall, and despite the wine having nothing to do with the 2012 vintage it was quite welcome in my glass: fine tannins and chocolate flavours make it approachable already, despite the intense, long-lived reds Van Westen is known for.

Moving across the lake to Summerland we heard from Michael Bartier of Okanagan Crush Pad, along with Viticulturist Theo Siemens. They had brought tank samples of Haywire 2012 Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris and 2011 Canyonview Vineyard Pinot Noir. Michael and Theo were proud to discuss the many environmentally-sustainable practices employed by OK Crush Pad, including the presence of vineyard chickens, and soon sheep! The vineyards have cut insecticide use completely in favour of encouraging beneficial insects via diverse flowering plants. In addition, the winery’s compost pile yields liquid “tea” that serves as an excellent fungicide, further reducing artificial chemical application. These practices have certainly succeeded in producing delicious wines: the Pinot Gris – fermented and aged as five unique lots before blending – is showing off a very nice nose of delicate tropical fruit and floral notes. The 2011 Pinot Noir is already very smooth, with flavours of red currants and cherries, but bright acidity on the palate will keep it fresh for some time, it having not even been formally bottled yet. Okanagan Crush Pad employs several concrete “egg” tanks, which is where the Pinot Noir is currently aging.

Our final panel member came from Kelowna’s Tantalus Vineyards: Viticulturist Warwick Davis joked that since all wine is made in the vineyard, there was no point in sending (Winemaker) David Paterson as well. In fact, David is currently working the Australian 2013 harvest, a practice not uncommon for worldly winemakers with experience timing their travel schedules. Warwick showed a map of Tantalus’ 50-acre estate vineyard surrounding their beautiful winery and tasting room, including some newly acquired neighbouring property being planted to Chardonnay. He was sure to mention the risks involved riding the sharp edge of deficit irrigation – maintaining the fine line between not enough and too much water is a constant balancing act. Although the vineyards may not be pretty, the old vines at Tantalus are still “trucking along” even though some are missing here and there – Riesling planted in 1978 makes up the vineyard backbone.

The 2012 and 2010 (Old Vines) Riesling from Tantalus were the final wines available to sample, and will likely be released within the next month. The “regular” 2012 Riesling is demonstrating an excellent balance between the 16 grams of sugar and 10 grams of acidity. Because 2012 was a warmer year tropical notes are more apparent than in previous vintages, but tart apples and citrus flavours form the fruit core. The Old Vines version from 2010 is soon to be released after extensive bottle aging, and showed somewhat lower sugar and higher acidity than the 2012 vintage in the neighbouring glass. Stronger petrol notes are apparent on the nose, and citrus flavours are dominant (as Warwick suggested, due to the cooler season that year). In this case, a vibrant, mouth-watering, honeyed finish provided for a delightful conclusion to the flight of wines.

My gratitude goes out to the BC Wine Institute for organizing such an informative panel discussion, and to the talented winemakers and viticulturists who attended for being so generous with their time. I look forward to enjoying more of the high-quality 2012 vintage over the coming months and years!