Sunday, 17 September 2017

Celebrating with Poplar Grove

Penticton’s Poplar Grove Winery hosts a generous party for their many loyal Wine Club members each September, and for the first time since joining said Club I was in the Okanagan and available to attend this year. By design, the expansive Munson Mountain tasting room and grounds are a near-perfect event space, and so the facility closed early this Saturday to welcome hundreds of devotees and their guests. In past years, the “Member Appreciation Event” has taken the form of a barbecue, but with the Vanilla Pod restaurant now firmly established, an even more diverse spread has become the norm. Although the winery kept expectations in check with a caveat they would only be providing “small bites,” I’m glad I brought my appetite!

The gathered throngs nibble and nosh on the patio.

Upon arrival – dodging the many complimentary shuttle buses bringing in guests from Naramata to Summerland – we were treated to a glass of welcome bubbly. The winery’s inaugural Extra Brut 2014 was no doubt made with this party in mind, and members have had the chance to enjoy the crisp Blanc de Blanc since this spring. Knowing the Chardonnay was hand-picked by Proprietor Tony Holler from his personal home vineyard engenders a certain gratitude when he hands you a glass! Later in the evening, Tony revealed that the highly enjoyable sparkler will remain a member-exclusive wine for the foreseeable future, another one of several Club wines that serve to entice new members.

A brief cold-spell in the central Okanagan prevented some of the sun-kissed photographs taken in previous years, but organizers were prepared for rain or shine conditions with tents should the worst come to pass. Fortunately, the occasionally-overcast skies stayed in check, and the tasting room itself provided a dash of warmth once a chill set in outdoors. The grounds included a triplet of food and wine stations in the lower picnic area, along with heartier fare on the restaurant patio, and well-refreshed snacks indoors. Although I kept a laser-like focus on the wine, an expansive non-alcoholic bar was highly visible and reflected well on our responsible hosts.

A blast from the past visible in the barrel room.

Combined with coordinated wine pairings from across the portfolio, the many food stations dished out delicacies and hometown favourites. With a glass of Brut in hand one was invited to enjoy Pulled Pork Sliders alongside Vegetarian Chili while talented local musician Nikita Afonso serenaded the reception area. On the grass below long lines formed for Prawns and Tomato Cucumber Salad with the striking new 2016 Chardonnay – bursting with fresh peaches & cream and mandarin orange aromas. Maple Glazed Salmon matched the 2016 Rosé, a complex, lip-smacking Blanc de Noirs of Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, unexpectedly still available for sale on-site! The intensely-flavoured 2014 Syrah was superb with Grilled Fennel Sausage and Sweet Corn Hash; the rich new release is boosted by 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and was fermented with a small proportion of Viognier skins for added aromatics.

In the tasting room itself a half dozen wines were available from the fully staffed “pods”, where sales seemed brisk as well. Opportunity to compare the 2016 Pinot Gris and single-vineyard Munson Mountain bottling of the same (another Club exclusive), showed off the home vineyard’s minerality with ease. The vivacious upcoming “Collectif” 2016 was also being showcased, a follow-up to last year’s delicious new white blend that brought together Riesling, Chardonnay, and Viognier/Marsanne/Roussanne. Newly released 2014 Merlot and 2014 Cabernet Franc provided plenty on which to chew as well, with bright and juicy heirloom tomato flatbread emerging at a furious pace from the hard-working kitchen. For extra-hearty fare the patio was home to Beef Brisket, Baked Beans, and Cornbread, showcased by the much-loved 2013 CSM red blend, and the golden-hued, thought-provoking 2014 MRV white.

Attractive magnums of Lt-Gov Award-winning 2009 Cabernet Franc on display.

Should the seemingly-endless array of food and drink somehow prove unsatisfying the on-site barrel hall was home to Winemaker Stefan Arnason and a pair of open barrels (plus a cloud of fanatic fruit-flies). The barrel thieves were dispending mouth-filling 2016 Syrah and fresh, juicy 2016 Munson Cabernet Franc (surprisingly approachable) to those looking for a glimpse into the future. Platters of Apple Sauce Cake and Chili-spiced Brownies offered a sweet treat on the room’s impressive long-table, just to cover all the culinary bases. After three hours of festivities there could not have been a hungry belly or thirsty palate left in the house; I certainly left merrily mellow. In an increasingly competitive marketplace, Poplar Grove has continued to provide added value for their Wine Club members – I’m happy to oblige!

Thursday, 31 August 2017

Collectibles: August 2017

The several special bottles I’m reserving this month are dominated by classic Cabernet, both parent and child versions in the form of Franc and Sauvignon, respectively. An early August trip to Osoyoos for several days helped in the hunt for some of the small lot exclusives: 400 cases is the largest production quantity amongst these wines. Chance finds at specialty wine stores closer to home rounded out the selection, but in both cases I consider myself very lucky to have nabbed bottles reaching sold out status. The summer’s national award season maintains strong representation, as four acclaimed Gold medal-winners are on the list for those who seek to hunt them down.

August 2017 BC wine collectibles

Anarchist Mountain 2015 Pinot Noir: From the quintessential “small guys” winery, Anarchist proprietor Terry Meyer-Stone actually founded and runs the Garagiste North Wine Festival. Alongside her husband Andrew Stone the pair produce a mere couple hundred cases of wine from their vineyard above Osoyoos. The Pinot Noir they produce (at the winery of Terry’s brother Jak Meyer) has garnered impressive accolades over the years, and the newest vintage is no exception, with a Gold medal from the recent National Wine Awards. Just 75 cases of the 2015 were produced, and it is long since sold out for direct ordering, but discerning private retailers often get a hold of some. The 2016 should be available soon, likely after undergoing similar wild yeast, whole berry fermentation in primarily neutral French oak. Sutton Place Wine Merchant $40

Harper’s Trail 2015 Cabernet Franc: Ontario Cabernet Franc had quite a run in this year’s National Wine Awards, garnering four Gold medals, while the only Gold for BC went to Kamloops, where Harper’s Trail made 200 cases worth on the banks of the Thompson River. WineAlign’s judges pointed out that cooler vineyards sites are producing “fresh, spirited, and ultimately crushable” iterations of the grape, and Kamloops’ first winery is leading the charge. The elegance elucidated in the tasting notes is reflected in judge Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson’s 91-point review, praising the balance and restraint on display in an exemplar bottle. Although still available in some stores, this vintage has been supplanted by the newly released 2016 at the winery, and the good news is that production has more than doubled from an excellent year. Swirl VQA Store $33

Lock & Worth 2015 Cabernet Franc: I acquired an earlier vintage of this Naramata Bench Franc a couple years back, and it still rests in the cellar; meanwhile I’m happy to bring another on board. Matt Sherlock and Ross Hackworth are excelling in their second venture, when they aren’t busy doing the same at Nichol Vineyard. The twenty-year-old estate vines overlooking the lake are still going strong, expressing themselves well through low-intervention, natural winemaking. Seventeen months in neutral oak has yielded 160 cases that ensure, “you're getting a clear-lens view of the grape,” in the words of GismondiOnWine’s Treve Ring. Her 91-point review this month praised the wine’s rustic intensity and aging potential despite the temptation of present enjoyment. If I hadn’t found the last bottle on the shelf I would crack another one open immediately for some of that impressive “scratchy minerality.” Firefly Fine Wines $37

Black Widow 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon: The red-hot, lengthy 2015 season was one in which Cabernet Sauvignon had some of its best chances to fully ripen, even outside the South Okanagan. Although uncommon, there are a number of high-quality Cabernet vineyards in the Naramata Bench, one of them being the Pocaterra property directly beside Black Widow. From there, Dick Lancaster has obtained superb red grapes to complement the estate vineyard at his arachnid-absorbed winery. Only the second varietal bottling, 100 cases from four selected barrels have now gone on to win (the sole) Gold at the All Canadian Wine Championships (following Double Gold last year for the 2014 vintage). Released this month alongside the other premium 2015 reds, it won’t last long in the highly visible roadside tasting room. Winery Direct $55

Cassini 2012 Godfather Red: In 2010 Adrian Cassini put together the first vintage of a new flagship wine for his namesake winery. The first blend of “The Godfather” added Syrah to the traditional Bordeaux reds of Merlot and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. After a departure in 2011 to one of just Cabernets, the wider blend has returned in 150 cases of the recently released 2012 – combining 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, and 8% Syrah. A rare taste at the winery offered me a rich, earthy nose and a dense but smooth palate of toasty dark plum and cherries before a lengthy, raisined finish. The 2012 represents the first in what should be a particularly promising series of vintages to come (Cassini’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot having both received Lieutenant Governor’s Awards), but with Adrian having eschewed Syrah as of 2014, I expect further changes in composition to come. Winery Direct $70

Culmina 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon: Since launching a series of single varietal reds in 2013 to complement the flagship Hypothesis blend, the Triggs family’s Golden Mile winery has taken full advantage of the excellent 2014 vintage as well. In the eyes of Anthony Gismondi, the second year of Cabernet Sauvignon is significantly improved: his 89-point review this spring noted the increased finesse and perfect balance, offering aging into 2020. Tasting it myself this summer I noted a palate with enjoyable and ideal fruit focus - currants and Lapin cherries - plus lush tannins with less austerity than the same vintage’s Merlot. John Schreiner offered 93 points to the Sauvignon versus 92 points to Merlot in his June review – either would be well suited for the cellar. About 400 cases were recently released at the winery after 16 months in (25% new) French oak and bottling last June. Winery Direct $45

Moon Curser 2013 Tannat: I’m pretty sure this Osoyoos East Bench Tannat is still the only game in town, and there are few other locations in Canada that could even attempt the grape. Although blended with Syrah for the winery’s flagship “Dead of Night”, a few barrels are reserved for the single varietal bottling that resumed (after a brief absence) in 2012. Gone is the quirky “Tannant” nomenclature of that vintage, in which a typographical label error led the winery to embrace the Quebecois vernacular for “irritating”; now the proper varietal name is in place. After bottling in early 2015 - following a couple years maturation in (30% new) French oak, more have passed before this summer’s release of 121 cases; coinciding nicely with the Gold medal recently received at the National Wine Awards. Even after four years there is little hurry to unleash the full-bodied character, as the winery suggests another decade in bottle (sealed under screwcap no less) is within reason. Winery Direct $43

Monday, 31 July 2017

Collectibles: July 2017

Mid-year is always a particularly exciting time for BC wine enthusiasts and collectors: following the results of the All Canadian Wine Championships and then the BC Lieutenant Governor’s Awards in June, July reveals results of the highly respected National Wine Awards. The Nationals follow from the previous Canadian Wine Awards: many of the contributors to the defunct host publication Wine Access launched WineAlign a few years back, and continued the awards process. Amongst the many prominent accolades for BC wine coming out of this year’s competition were seven of 20 Platinum medals, awarded to the top 1% of wines entered. Needless to say there are plenty of superb wines from which to choose this month!

July 2017 BC wine collectibles

Privato 2014 Woodward Collection “Tesoro” Pinot Noir: The reserve-tier Pinot from Kamloops’ Privato is as good as gold this summer, receiving matching medals from both the All Canadians and Nationals. With a 91-point overall score at the Nationals, and a trio of glowing reviews from judges praising its irresistibility, the wine must have been within inches of a prestigious Platinum medal. While I visit the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys on a regular basis, making it up to Kamloops has been unfortunately neglected, but rapidly becoming an important expedition to consider. Fortunately wineries like Privato understand the importance of reliable retail channels as well, so I was able to find this fine bottle in Vancouver before it sells out. $46 Swirl VQA Store.

Stag’s Hollow 2014 Renaissance Pinot Noir: Another exciting new Pinot Noir came to me this month in my Stag’s Hollow Wine Club package, which is always a mystery collection until it arrives. Although the winery is already selling futures of the 2015 Renaissance Pinot Noir (only their sixth reserve tier Pinot in two decades), the current vintage remains well on hand, albeit only what remains of about 200 cases produced. It’s described as a bold, Californian-styled Pinot Noir, black-fruited with abundant French oak (50% of it new); although WineAlign judge Remy Charest pointed out “it has the stuffing to stand up to it,” in contributing to the Silver medal the wine received at the Nationals this month. With the winery suggesting aging through 2025 I’m in no hurry to crack mine open (and it’s secure under screwcap until that day comes). Winery Direct $40

The Similkameen Collective 2014 GSM: Expanding out from their Golden Mile Bench origins, Road 13 has made a major bet on the Similkameen Valley, showing off Cawston’s exceptional Blind Creek Vineyard in their Similkameen Collective project. The first release last year of GSM and Syrah-Viognier returned Gold and Platinum medals, respectively, from the 2016 National Wine Awards. This year’s GSM surged to Platinum status on the back of an excellent growing season that propelled the wine to “new heights,” in the words of WineAlign Judge Brad Royale. Despite the 100-acre size of Blind Creek, the grapes are spread thin across several clients, and only 126 cases of GSM have been produced (up from 104 last year though). The blend of 54% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 7% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier found particularly strong favour amongst the judges this year, receiving a 92-point average score! Winery Direct $50

Burrowing Owl 2015 Syrah: Three Canadian Syrah were recognized with Platinum medals at this year’s National Wine Awards, and the pair of BC bottles include a surprising Naramata version (from Lake Breeze), plus this southern Okanagan stalwart. The generous vintage has resulted in a “ripe, rich, and meaty Syrah” that caught the attention of judges: David Lawrason’s 93-point review praises it for being “lavish and engaging” with “gorgeous textures.” In typical Burrowing Owl fashion the 18 months in oak were a complex affair, using a mix of 70% French, 15% American, and 15% Hungarian barrels of varying ages (30% new). Despite having been released just last month (with a limited availability warning) it is reportedly already sold out in the tasting room, so be sure to scour the shelves of local retail establishments! Winery Direct $35

Road 13 2015 Syrah Malbec: The friendly internal rivalry amongst Road 13’s various Rhone-inspired blends appears to continue this year as the contribution of 24% Malbec (and 3% each of Viognier and Gamay) has taken Gold at the National Wine Awards. A small lot Syrah blend with Mourvedre took Platinum last year while the Malbec inclusion only brought home Silver, now “redeemed” with a new vintage. Grapes from the winery’s extensive holdings in the south Okanagan and Similkameen valleys contributed to 347 cases of what the winery calls an “utterly hedonistic wine.” Tasting a sample at the winery while collecting my Club order I was readily persuaded to agree: the noticeable Malbec contribution provides for a darker and jammier profile than the excellent (and equally collectible) varietal Syrah I also obtained, with more tannin present in the rich and creamy palate. Winery Direct $37

Fairview Cellars 2014 The Bear: In the words of proprietor and winemaker Bill Eggert, 2014 was a “most awesome year,” allowing him to devote a larger percentage of the vintage than usual to his flagship red blend. The Bear has been an automatic purchase for many years given Bill’s veteran talent, hence providing me with a rotating six-bottle vertical that now yields a 2008 for current consumption. The wine is typically a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend, including Merlot and Cabernet Franc, plus what Bill reports as “a small percentage of Malbec and an even smaller portion of Petit Verdot.” The grapes (with the exception of Malbec) come from the estate vineyard on the northern end of the Golden Mile Bench west of Oliver. The 650 cases assembled should last at least through the summer, but don’t dawdle! Winery Direct $40

La Frenz 2014 Grand Total Reserve: The icon wine at La Frenz is comprised of fruit from the Naramata Bench winery’s home “Rattlesnake” Vineyard, and their Golden Mile “Rockyfeller” Vineyard, which contributes Cabernets. Acquiring the newest release completes adds a sixth vintage to my collection, initiating another rotating vertical beginning with 2009. Having sampled all of those years (and beyond) at last year’s BCWAS-hosted vertical tasting, I look forward to what to the future holds. That anticipation includes this plush-textured blend of Merlot (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and Cabernet Franc (25%), aged in (70% new) French oak for 22 months before blending and bottling of about 300 cases. Over at IconWines, reviewer Liam Carrier is equally confident in the wine’s future promise: his 93-point review strongly suggests more bottle age to “make the most of your investment.” Winery Direct $45

Monday, 3 July 2017

New Adventures: Bella Sparkling Wines

Since Jay Drysdale opened his tiny Bella bubbly house to the public in 2014 I’ve longed to visit the winery he opened with wife Wendy on the northern Naramata Bench. It’s taken me three years to get there, past myriad vinicultural distractions on the route from Penticton, but I couldn’t be more pleased to finally make it. The northern Naramata tasting room is a working one, with far more space devoted to riddling racks than people. Despite the relatively remote location, the venue was hopping on the recent long weekend, with visitors choosing from amongst dozens of unique, vintage stems and coupes for tasting the lively list of wines before they sell out mid-summer.

Taster's choice rules at Bella when it comes to drinking vessel.

Jay & Wendy’s mantra of “Celebrate Today” was on point as Jay opened what seemed like countless bottles, so many that I honestly lost track of some! To keep at least some focus only Chardonnay and Gamay are used for a growing series of micro-lot (e.g., 50 cases) wines made all Brut Natural with no dosage. From the traditional method “Vineyard Series” of 2016 three Gamay from West Kelowna and a pair of Naramata vineyards offered plenty of crunchy red berries and stone fruit, while Chardonnay showed varietal character from Keremeos and Kamloops. Ancestrale method wines in the 2016 “Natural Series” encompass the first estate fruit in a blend of Chardonnay & Gamay, plus a lime and spiced apple iteration of the Keremeos Chardonnay, and two more Gamay, including a re-visit to the Westbank vineyard source. A major treat was also on offer as the single Reserve Series was opened to reveal a luxurious 2013 Chardonnay from Oliver’s Secrest Vineyard, full of classical Champagne character after 42 months on the lees.

Riddling racks on display for a close look at the Bella process.

Collectible: 2016 Chardonnay - Eastside (Ancestrale). In this case Eastside refers to the Southern Okanagan, and the grapes come from Michael Bartier’s Black Sage Bench vineyard (on the east side of the valley) outside Oliver. One of several ancestrales making inroads at Bella, the wine undergoes a single fermentation that concludes in bottle (instead of the typical tank-based primary and a more controlled secondary in bottle). The technique is riskier and makes for some natural cloudiness, but the results can be stunning, as Jay reports: “You will never taste a more intensely flavored sparkling wine than an ancestrale.” The nose of tropical and citrus fruits leads into a buttered popcorn palate that made this one an immediate purchase, and at only 9.1% alcohol one really can celebrate today, or any day - at least while the 50 cases produced remain available!

Sunday, 2 July 2017

New Adventures: vinAmité Cellars

The Coulombe family winery is two years young this summer, since opening in 2015 (and tweaking the name since) with an enviable location on Highway 97 outside Oliver. Since having first tasted, and thoroughly enjoyed, the wines - presented by daughter Catherine Coulombe - at last fall’s Garagiste North Festival in Penticton, I’ve been eager to visit the winery in person. A couple attempts in May fell through, but as it turned out the shelves were nearly empty at the time, with a full slate of new releases anticipated in June. Among those new wines I heard about through the grapevine was a special release varietal Petit Verdot that piqued my curiosity.

Settle down for a while amongst original artwork and artisanal foods, including this selection from thesaltcellar.ca

Arriving at seemingly the perfect time, I was fortunate enough to be guided through the portfolio (from a vineyard-view table on the back patio) by the ebullient Catherine herself, who serves as both knowledgeable Tasting Room Manager and Assistant Winemaker. The cozy lounge is richly decorated with art from Catherine’s talented sister Nathalie, and fine cheeses and charcuterie are available to enhance and extend one’s experience. All business, I delved straight into each of the eight wines on hand, all small lots of less than 250 cases. Highlights included aged Pinot Gris from 2015, richly textured with honeyed peaches; 2015 Chardonnay, lightly oaked for just four months and offering a pleasing popcorn profile; plus new 2016 Gamay, very pretty indeed with spiced cranberries and a fresh, silky, palate. Red blends from 2015 comprise “Petit Claret”, “Hidden Corner”, and “Compass”, a favourite with ripe berries, cocoa, and vanilla atop structured tannins from 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Malbec.

vinAmite 2015 Petit Verdot

Collectible: 2015 Petit Verdot. Used most often in small proportions for blends, varietal Petit Verdot is rare worldwide, so it’s always exciting to see a local example. In this case, Proprietor Ray Coulombe set himself on a “mission”, as Catherine puts it, to obtain these grapes from a local partner grower in the south Okanagan. Only three (French oak) barrels were produced of what is hoped to be an inaugural vintage (there is a larger lot of 2016 aging in the cellar, and plans for 2017), divided amongst one new barrel, a one-year-old, and a three-year-old, where the wine spent 14 months before bottling. Having a taste at the winery revealed near perfect varietal character, with all the inky, floral aromas and powerful palate one would expect; the ripe, dark fruit is nearly Port-like in its concentration. Needless to say I look forward to longer-term aging of this particular rarity. Winery Direct $55

Friday, 30 June 2017

Collectibles: June 2017

Starting in the esteemed Naramata Bench and working our way south, four rare Pinot Noir represent the majority of this month’s collection of top-notch BC wine. One of those Pinots brings significant pedigree with a newly awarded Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in BC Wines, joined by a second Award winner in the form of a hard-to-come-by Syrah I nabbed direct from the Osoyoos tasting room. The several wines featured this month span a range of vintages and releases, with older wines being both newly released or sourced from the last few cases. Each one has a story of place and time, and a spot in the cellar for the years to come.

June 2017 BC wine collectibles

Laughing Stock 2015 Pinot Noir: The third year of Laughing Stock’s reanimated Pinot program ran headlong into the Okanagan’s hottest vintage on record, making for a big, bold wine in contrast to the elegant cool-climate Pinot Noir more common to the valley. The new estate vineyard the winery is cultivating on the Naramata Bench is supplemented by two nearby high-bluff properties at present, and the combination yielded 300 cases from an unusually early September 10 harvest. After 15% was fermented whole cluster in an oak tank (and rest whole berry), the wine spent 14 months in French oak, just 17% of it new and three quarters third use. Priority access for Wine Club members guaranteed me a bottle during a recent visit, as the “Small Cap” release won’t last very long. Winery Direct $38

Howling Bluff 2013 Century Block Pinot Noir: It will be a celebratory summer down the road at Howling Bluff, as Luke Smith proudly accepts his fourth Lieutenant Governor’s Award - and the third for Pinot Noir. This tiny lot of about 80 cases reserved from the estate vineyard’s Century Block went through a soft-release this spring as Luke tried to determine its fate after extensive bottle aging: lucky members of the BC Wine Appreciation Society enjoyed the wine with him during a dinner at Glowbal just last month. Upon my first taste it launched a striking aroma of orange pekoe tea before the juicy cherry palate brought a burst of fruit that grew over time. With the province’s most prestigious wine award in hand sales in the wine shop have opened up, with a price set to keep it in stock at least in the short term. Winery Direct $75

La Frenz 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir: The high heat of 2015 made for more powerful Pinot from Naramata neighbour La Frenz. Jeff & Niva Martin’s seven-acre Desperation Hill vineyard grows five clones, and the best blocks of the numbered four (91, 115, 667, and 828) were selected to comprise 400 cases of the Reserve tier in 2015. The winery clearly feels this “knockout” is a notable departure from the previous vintages, describing it as having a deeper concentration of flavours, dense palate weight, and plush mouthfeel. At this year’s Dan Berger International Wine Competition in California, the Reserve Pinot contributed to La Frenz’s domination, which included four Gold medals. The wine is also headed to the prestigious International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon this July as BC’s only entrant, and (by exclusive invitation) to the Six Nations Wine Challenge in Australia come August. Winery Direct $35

Meyer 2015 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir: At least five different Pinot Noir of different tiers are included in Meyer’s portfolio (six if you include the new varietal Rosé), so release dates are staggered, providing Club members with the workhorse home vineyard version this month. Harvested in late September, the free-run juice spent 11 months in (25% new) French oak before bottling of 600 cases last fall. The winery feels this muscular version is suitable for long-term cellaring (2017-2024), and the deeper fruit flavour profile was observed by John Schreiner at this spring’s Okanagan Falls Tasting: his 91-point review speaks of “spicy black cherry and cloves.” It sounds a little heavier than last year’s well received vintage, showing the warm, dry weather of 2015, but I’ve got patience to let the structure coalesce until at least 2020. Winery Direct $40 (and available in Norway as of July!)

Maverick 2014 Bush Vine Syrah: Showing the southern Okanagan’s continued superiority in Syrah, both of those who received Lieutenant Governor’s Awards this year came from the region. While The Hatch found favour in the Osoyoos East Bench, Bertus Albertyn’s experiments with unusual Goblet-trained (“Bush”) vines north-west of town got the nod as well. The small winery of the Albertyn family is a first-time winner for this small lot (185 cases) of whole-bunch, foot-stopped Syrah. Fermented in one large 3,400-liter vat, it then spent 18 months in older French oak before bottling last September. The meaty aromas lead into admirable intensity on the palate, where quintessential black, spicy fruit make their mark. Winery Direct $32

Stag’s Hollow 2013 Hawk’s Hollow: A pleasant surprise in my recent Wine Club shipment from Stag’s Hollow came in the form of this uncommon Cabernet-Syrah. Although officially released last summer - to a Silver medal at the 2016 National Wine Awards - Club members were treated to some of the remaining bottles (only about 100 cases were produced). The blend sees 45% each of Osoyoos Syrah and Oliver-area Cabernet Sauvignon accessorized with 10% Osoyoos Petit Verdot. Having spent 15 months in French oak (40% new), it seems destined for even further bottle age to soften the full-bodied tannins and further develop the balanced palate. Despite being only the second vintage of this wine produced since the inaugural 2012, it is destined to be the last, as other directions take priority in Winemaker Dwight Sick’s packed portfolio. Winery Direct $40

Orofino 2014 Scout Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: Having two different Similkameen Valley vineyard sources for Cabernet Sauvignon, John & Virginia Weber can release an enviable pair of wines each year. The Passion Pit Vineyard iteration was here and gone in short order late last fall, but this spring the 250 cases from Cawston’s Scout Vineyard were deemed ready for release after some aging (following bottling last September). Given the quality of the vintage I expect to relish this well-priced expression of Similkameen terroir in the years to come. While discussing Orofino’s growing vineyard sources and new Cabernet Franc focus this month, John Schreiner had nothing but praise for the Scout Sauvignon, polished and elegant after 20 months in French oak. Winery Direct $29

Wednesday, 31 May 2017

Collectibles: May 2017

Three cheers for 2014: the rich, ripe reds of that superb vintage are seemingly everywhere one looks in the Okanagan these days. A recent trip to Osoyoos provided the opportunity to stock up on the latest and greatest from the cellar door, leaving me with a divine selection to fawn over this month. While it may seem odd to have focused on so many big reds in the summer, rest assured there were more than enough bottles of white and Rosé keeping these cellar-dwellers company on the ride home. And not every white is destined for immediate consumption, because locally legendary Riesling is just as age-worthy as the neighbouring collectible reds.

May 2017 BC wine collectibles

Synchromesh 2016 Black Label Storm Haven Vineyard Riesling: The 2016 vintage at Alan Dickinson’s Okanagan Falls home vineyard was split into 182 cases of this Black Label, wax-sealed reserve plus a White Label for earlier consumption. While both wines host a generous 38 g/L of sugar, the bracing acidity is even higher in the Black Label version, providing for a stunning pH of 2.81 and a very long life ahead. The team at GismondiOnWine have tasted nearly every vintage since the inaugural 2010, culminating in a library tasting in mid-March that found even the “vibrant and youthful” 2011 (with 55 g/L) to have “so many years to go still”. Anthony Gismondi’s 93-point review of the newest release praised the benefits of long hang time last fall, finding the purity of fruit to be “impressive to say the least.” Winery Direct $40

Church & State 2014 Merlot: Wrapped in the winery’s new Signature Series label, with varietally-unique calligraphy, 450 cases of Merlot come from a blend of Black Sage Bench and Golden Mile fruit from two vineyards, including the home Coyote Bowl property. One of several generous new 2014 reds, the Merlot has done particularly well for the winery, being named Best of Class (Double Gold) at this year’s All Canadian Wine Championships, one of two (the other for Trebella 2015) in addition to a pair of Gold medals. Even before the All Canadians, February’s New World International Wine Competition in California bestowed the honour of Best Canadian Wine for this Best of Class Merlot. Released just in time for the busy summer touring season, stocks are already growing low thanks to the intense roasted cocoa aromas and rich, round blueberry palate, followed by a sweet and savoury smoked finish to wrap it all up. Great for summer barbecue season no doubt, but secure under screwcap with further cellaring in mind. Winery Direct $40

Mt. Boucherie 2014 Winemaker’s Reserve Syrah: After a tumultuous couple of years in receivership, established West Kelowna winery Mt. Boucherie re-emerged this spring, as John Schreiner detailed in a February article. Most important to consider from John’s detailed summary of the proceedings is that talented and committed Winemaker Jim Faulkner remained at the helm throughout. As the budgetary prospects improved Jim could finally acquire bottles and labels for reds that include this smoothly aged Similkameen Valley Syrah, after it spent an unexpected 22 months in oak. The resulting 381 cases of “full and rich” wine are felt well-worthy of a 92-point score in John’s experienced eyes. Later in the same month, a taste by David Lawrason at WineAlign yielded similar accolades, with another 92-points for the “classic Syrah nose,” fine tannins, and elegant, rich palate. Winery Direct $40

Church & State 2014 Malbec: Having taken some time off after two consecutive Best of Class awards for 2011 and 2012 vintages the Malbec is back at Church & State. Sourced from the Rattlesnake Vineyard on the Golden Mile, 225 cases of what is always a local rarity snagged one of the winery’s aforementioned Gold medals at the All Canadians (and the only Gold-medal Malbec in the Single Red Varietal category). I was fortunate enough to enjoy a sample upon visiting the winery, and found black cherry and chocolate aromas hinting at what is another ripe and rambunctious red. Equally rich and intense as the Merlot, I briefly reminded of drinking chocolate upon tasting the full-bodied purple-fruited palate. Here’s another exciting candidate for the cellar if you can keep it closed in the meantime. Winery Direct $35

Quails’ Gate 2014 “The Boswell” Syrah: Since the initial 2012 release (intended as a one-time only anniversary wine) received one of the BC Wine Awards’ new Platinum medals in 2014, Quails’ Gate has been one to watch for Syrah. While the winery’s focus remains Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, small amounts of winery exclusive Syrah (unexpectedly from West Kelowna) continue to impress: 570 cases of the latest have garnered universal praise in preview tastings last year. GismondiOnWine’s Treve Ring complimented the “haunting” complexity and finesse for 91-points in October; John Schreiner paralleled his score of 2013 with another 94-point review in December; and Deanna Van Mulligen felt 93-points was well worth it in February for the “amazing structure.” Over at WineAlign reviewers exalted the focus, length, and richness, with emphasis on its cellaring potential for enjoyment into the next decade - I’m more than happy to oblige. Winery Direct $61

Little Engine 2015 Platinum Cabernet Franc: After opening last summer with high-end Chardonnay and Pinot Noir the fuller-bodied reds at Little Engine have now come into play, and the top tier Platinum series has supplanted Gold at the apex of their portfolio. John Schreiner was invited to preview the new releases earlier this month and had nothing but good - and very good - things to say. I stopped by soon afterwards, with an eye to examining wines that garnered some of John’s highest scores ever. The 96-point Platinum Merlot was in my sights, but as good as it was, I was struck even greater by this powerful Cabernet Franc, still 95-points as far as John was concerned (and a complimentary 89-points from Anthony Gismondi); the mouth-watering intensity had me excited to lay down a bottle. Of the three new Platinum reds, the Cabernet Franc is most rare, at just 49 cases produced - now minus one precious bottle. Winery Direct $86

Covert Farms 2014 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: It’s been awhile since I tasted a barrel sample of this young and highly promising Cabernet alongside the BC Wine Appreciation Society in March of last year. In the meantime, it was bottled and apparently quietly released at the Oliver tasting room below McIntyre Bluff. Visiting the secluded tasting room amongst 650 organically-farmed acres   provided the opportunity to get a bottle from the mere 48 cases produced. It’s become evident that 2014 was a well-above-average vintage for BC Cabernet Sauvignon, and Covert’s micro-lot is further testimony. A taste during my visit showed off dark and intensely ripe dried fruits, with age-worthy tannin to boot, and a mouth-watering selection of the winery’s descriptors that include red licorice, cocoa, vanilla, and baking spice. Winery Direct $59