BCWAS Merlot Blind Tasting

For the past several years the BC Wine Appreciation Society has hosted an annual double-blind varietal tasting, beginning with Syrah in 2013, and in latter years featuring Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Having recently taken over as Society Cellarmaster I was given the task of organizing this year’s tasting, and settled on long-suffering Merlot. After taking a beating following the release of the film Sideways in 2004, unfairly maligned Merlot deserves to be championed more often, particularly given its standing as BC’s most-planted red grape. I looked forward to the challenge of showing off some top local examples.

I was limited to only eight wines given the physical constraints of our venue, fewer than years past, so it was important to ensure variety and avoid overlap. I focused on regional distribution alongside important criteria such as quality and availability. Using what was on hand in the Society cellar allowed for a selection of vintages from 2012-2015, while geographic range from Naramata through Osoyoos and on to Keremeos yielded sufficient diversity. While I longed for some of the exclusive icons from LaStella or Checkmate, price was another consideration, and so the wines remained within the $27-$40 range. Cost doesn’t always predict quality however, so prominent award-winners were in the mix to see how they stacked up. The wines were all poured blind, and served blind in the following randomized order:

Painted Rock 2012: The tasting’s oldest wine, coming from professional storage in the BCWAS cellar, it’s long since sold out, as the 2014 is currently available at the winery. The Merlot block on the west-facing Skaha Bench estate vineyard was harvested October 23, and the grapes were later aged for 18 months in 50% new French oak before just over 1,000 cases were bottled.

Stag’s Hollow 2014 Renaissance: The winery’s reserve tier Merlot was harvested from the Okanagan Falls home vineyard on October 27, before aging in 50% new French oak for 15 months. This wine was one of two minor blends in the tasting, having incorporated 10% Cabernet Sauvignon for additional complexity, before bottling of just 225 cases. A Gold Medal at the 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships made it one to watch.

Cassini 2013 “Nobilus”: Bursting with accolades, Cassini’s example of Golden Mile Bench Merlot offered high expectations. The wine had returned a Double Gold (Best of Category) at the 2016 All Canadian Wine Championships, and a prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award last summer. Adrian Cassini entrusted his grapes to 100% new French oak for two years after harvest in the last week of October, releasing only 187 cases in the fall of 2017.

Corcelettes 2015: From the young winery’s relatively new home vineyard on the Keremeos Upper Bench, rare own-rooted vinifera vines were harvested early in September during this hot vintage. The grapes spent 16 months in a mix of French and American oak before 322 cases were released quite recently. At only $27 it was also the least expensive wine in the tasting.

Poplar Grove 2014: Just north of the winery location at the south end of the Naramata Bench are the pair of neighbouring vineyards that yielded a thousand cases of this local favourite. The wine is actually a four-grape blend, harvested over a month-long period starting in early October: 88% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. Grapes were aged in used French oak (second- to fourth-fill) for 21 months.

Burrowing Owl 2014: Anchoring the winery’s portfolio means 6,500 cases of this money-maker come from expansive southern Okanagan vineyards. The Black Sage Bench home vineyard and another on the Osoyoos East Bench contributed grapes harvested over two weeks mid-October. Burrowing Owl’s trademark varied elevage spread the grapes across 65% French, 18% American, 10% Hungarian, and 7% Russian oak, one quarter of it in new barrels.

Church & State 2013: Another Black Sage Bench example, but this time from lower in altitude closer to the valley floor. The Coyote Bowl and Rattlesnake Vineyards adjacent to the winery were harvested October 23, before 22 months of aging in one third new French oak. Just 275 cases came about, and it’s long since been supplanted by the present 2015 vintage for sale.

Van Westen 2014 “Vivre la Vie”: Rob Van Westen’s family vineyards can be found at the northern end of the Naramata Bench. The three small blocks that formed this wine were harvested from October 4-19, and spent 21 months in 25% new French oak before bottling of a mere 148 cases. The 2017 All Canadian Wine Championships awarded Double Gold to mark this bottle as category leader in the premium Merlot tier.

The fifty-plus participants at the sold-out tasting were all asked to rank order the eight wines on anonymous ballots, which I then tabulated using a Borda-count system (for all the voting-method geeks out there) to yield the overall crowd favourites. The clear champions emerged on top in short order, led by Cassini, Van Westen, and Burrowing Owl. The next level was dominated by Corcelettes, Painted Rock, and Poplar Grove, and demonstrating that vintage certainly was not a reliable predictor of appeal, given the full four-year range in that cluster.

Unfortunately, a couple of the wines seemed to have suffered from either faulty bottles or tainted stemware, as reports of off flavours harmed the chances of both Church & State and Stag’s Hollow, relegating them to the rear. My own servings seemed to have avoided any problematic bottles or glasses, as both Church & State and Stag’s Hollow found favour in my notes. Served second, Stag’s Hollow yielded a toasty, leathery nose with palate of blackberries and a pucker on the finish. Church & State, one of the older wines, offered a dusty nose before an aggressive palate of chewy tannins and tart fruit that finished long. It’s truly a shame some glitches may have prevented these two wines from achieving their potential.

The third wine served, top-ranked Cassini, made a particular impression – my notes reference the rich, creamy texture and profile of baked fruit and vanilla. Van Westen showed the winery’s trademark age-worthy tannins, with smoky hints but a well-balanced acidity that brought juicy fruit to the forefront. Burrowing Owl offered significant caramelization on the nose and palate – easy to like – with an accessible texture and ripe southern Okanagan fruit. Corcelettes revealed the freshness of youth, with a range of berry fruit flavours and hints of menthol, pleasantly elegant given the price point. Painted Rock’s Merlot always takes longest of John Skinner’s reds to come around, and even with the benefit of age it was still tight, showing floral character on the nose in time, while ripe, dark berries emerged on the palate. Poplar Grove belied its relative youth, presenting a surprisingly smooth palate of quintessential blueberry, along with deceptive spices that had me guessing Similkameen.

The entire experience was enlightening in the way that blind tastings so often are, and guests seemed quite pleased with the wines and information on offer. I myself was grateful my selections went over so well, and look forward to assembling future tastings of new varieties (or even blends). Thank you to the members of the BC Wine Appreciation Society for so diligently tasting and rating these wines – I hope you had as much fun as I did!

Collectibles: October 2017

A crush of fall club orders and some recent winery visits offered more than enough candidates for the cellar this month. These collectibles include some iconic BC blends and two pairs of classic varietals, in quantities ranging from petite to prodigious. Some will no doubt prove supremely challenging to track down outside their home range, showing once again the necessity of going straight to the source when seeking out the most intriguing bottles. With harvest underway and all hands on deck at this time of year, sales can take a backseat, meaning winery websites aren’t updated and rare new vintages are sometimes released with little fanfare. It’s up to aficionados to do the legwork in tracking down the best new drops.

Cassini 2014 Cabernet Franc: I optimistically stopped by Cassini’s road-side tasting room outside Oliver just as this gorgeous Cabernet Franc was being released and opened for tasting. The rich, purple-fruited nose carried into an equally intense palate showing fine ripe tannins, juicy acidity, and lip-smacking milk chocolate – a fine follow-up to the Gold-medal-winning 2013. Even after tasting and purchasing, I could still taste the extra long finish minutes after departing! Like previous vintages the fruit comes from the west-side Bella Vineyard, and maintains the same production of about 300 cases, which include the addition of 5% Merlot. Adrian Cassini likes to age his reds a bit longer than most, so two full years in new oak (80% French) is the go-to strategy in this case; but of course it can easily mature in bottle for a few more years, just as mine will. Winery Direct $40

Van Westen 2014 Vivre La Vie Merlot: Although the portfolio of wines crafted by Rob Van Westen have expanded over time, small production quantities are still the norm from his rustic Naramata winery. Several different small vineyards enable him to obtain the right varieties from suitable terroir, allowing for rich Merlot like the full-bodied “Vivre La Vie”, already almost sold out. Just 148 cases were bottled, but even before the late summer release the wine took home Double Gold/Best of Category honours at the spring All Canadian Wine Championships. Later in the summer, judges at the National Wine Awards recognized a “textbook Merlot” when delivering a high Silver medal score. The firmly structured tannins and toasty oak influence will benefit from time in bottle – Rob’s reds are consistently prime cellar candidates. Don’t miss the mere 77 cases of 2014 Cabernet Franc (“Vulture”) that were released last month as well, to which the All Canadians awarded another Gold. Winery Direct $30

Painted Rock 2015 Cabernet Franc: John Skinner’s Skaha Bench winery has developed an admirable, focused portfolio of red wines (plus a dynamite Chardonnay), but the recent addition of small lot varietal Cabernet Franc is turning heads even further. The stately Red Icon flagship and cult collectible Cabernet Sauvignon retain their status, but it’s about Franc that John is most excited. Now in it’s third vintage, the Franc – plus even smaller lots (I.e., 150 cases) of Malbec and new Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon – is made possible as the mature vineyards now yield sufficient fruit after blending the Icon. Revered consultant Alain Sutre is equally thrilled about Cabernet Franc, suggesting it is this variety above others in which Painted Rock will make a mark internationally. As the winery is quick to point out, Decanter magazine has already featured the first vintages no less than thrice, and they’re only getting better each year as experience brings finesse. Winery Direct $52

Road 13 2013 5th Element: Restraint from Road 13 means the flagship red blend from the 2013 vintage was only recently released, offered to members of Club 13 as part of their autumn shipment. Adding a bottle from the 852 cases produced fleshes out my six-year vertical, starting in 2007 (as no 2008 was produced), and showing the entertaining label changes over the years. The proprietary blend is intended to combine the traditional Bordeaux reds with stellar Syrah – 18% in this case, added to 45% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Nearly two thirds of the grapes originate from the extraordinary Blind Creek Vineyard in Cawston, with the remainder grown at the home vineyard on the Golden Mile. The structured 2012 received Gold at this year’s National Wine Awards, but the newest vintage is more approachable in its youth: a ripe, stewed palate and long rich finish make it hard to justify cellaring but it certainly won’t hurt in the medium term. Winery Direct $49

LaStella 2014 Maestoso: I have to admit I’m late to the party, as this vintage is already sold out, but don’t let that discourage you from scouring retail shelves – I certainly would! The flagship “jewel-in-the-crown” from Osoyoos-based LaStella is the monumental Merlot on which the winery admits, “no expense is spared.” Just 217 cases were produced from Osoyoos Lake district and (11%) Golden Mile fruit that spent 18 months in French oak, one third new and half on its second fill. While admiring the dense structure and spicy fruit, Anthony Gismondi offered this vintage his highest score yet with 93 points. Another 91 points of praise came from co-author Treve Ring, herself already eager to cellar and try again in five years. At WineAlign, a pair of 92-point scores this spring helped to remind readers Maestoso is “one of the top Merlots in the country to be sure.” Winery Direct $103

Laughing Stock 2015 Portfolio: The benchmark red blend from Laughing Stock is rightfully one of BC’s most well-known cult wines, and the annual October release is cause for celebration. As usual, members of the Preferred Share Wine Club get priority, so I knew to expect a small allotment in my mixed case. Pleasantly surprising me were a full three bottles, allowing an early peek at one I shared with Valerie Stride from Demystified Vine. We were mightily impressed with the complex profile and silky texture belying the wine’s youth; smelling cedar, blackberry, vanilla, and dark chocolate before more striking blackberry flavours accompanied by plum, dark cherry, and hints of white pepper. My remaining two bottles are set for the cellar and a growing vertical, but honestly it’s very inviting at present. Fortunately, a full 2,500 cases were produced, but don’t expect it to last particularly long, especially not with the holiday gift-giving season approaching. Winery Direct $52

Seven Stones 2014 The Legend: George Hansen’s Cabernet-heavy blend from the south Similkameen Valley comes with significant aging potential, and the newest vintage continues construction on another vertical. Usually about half Cabernet Sauvignon, this year it’s 50% on the dot, with another 30% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, and 8% Cabernet Franc, from the cellar’s best barrels. Unlike the larger quantities of very nice Meritage George puts out after lengthier bottle aging, his flagship red is released to loyal followers almost immediately, with the expectation they have their own self-control. It won’t sell out too fast, despite only 204 cases produced, as George’s varietal reds and well-priced Meritage are just so good it’s hard to upsell many to The Legend! The big, thick bottle can be a little intimidating, but it’s going to look great lined up with its brethren as they rest away the years. Winery Direct $50

Collectibles: September 2017

Most of the exceptional BC wines amassed this month are brand new releases. That’s not to say they will be easy to find, as nearly all represent extreme rarities, but every one is well worth tracking down. They range from a single barrel of an experimental variety never before seen in Canada, to the first vintage of a long-awaited flagship for a winery about to make a major transition. The beginning of fall represents a chance to celebrate the harvest with past years’ finest, and a great opportunity for collectors. Not to mention every winery is now finding themselves in need of cellar room for another celebrated vintage!

Liquidity 2015 Equity Pinot Noir: After some time in bottle, the inaugural 2014 flagship Equity was awarded a silver medal at Mondial des Pinots this month. Of course, that vintage is long since sold out, and this year’s sequel is approaching the same status. In lieu of clone 667 as per last year, the 2015 blends clone 828 with clone 115 from vines fruit-thinned to just one and a half tons per acre to yield 125 cases - prioritized for wine club members. After spending 15 months in (36% new) French oak the release this spring has left very little remaining in the Okanagan Falls wine shop. A pattern is forming at Liquidity, with the Equity being noticeably darker-fruited and more structurally intense than the Estate and Reserve tiers, immediately apparent upon tasting them side-by-side, and something Treve Ring noted last year as well. Winery Direct $64

Moon Curser 2015 Carménère: Although it is included amongst the traditional components of Bordeaux, few Canadian wineries bother to include this challenging grape in their red blends, and only a mere handful of single varietal examples exist. While Black Hills doesn’t even sell theirs outside the wine club, Moon Curser has managed to produce nearly 300 cases from a banner year for Osoyoos East Bench vines in their eleventh leaf. The wine was aged in a restrained 25% new French oak after malolactic fermentation, before bottling in March. For sale since early summer, this Gold Medal winner at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival provides one of the rare opportunities to sample Canadian Carménère; an exciting chance to test out Winemaker Chris Tolley’s impression of “plum, green peppercorn, ripe raspberry, and fennel seed.” Winery Direct $43

Cassini 2014 Nobilus Merlot: Adrian Cassini’s 2013 Merlot is one of two wines for which he received the Lieutenant Governor’s Award this summer, after it was named Best of Varietal at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival (and Best of Category at the 2016 All Canadian Wine Championships). Needless to say, the 2013 vintage is sold out, but fortunately the 2014 was quietly released last month, all 125 cases worth (it’s always a “Limited Edition”). Coming from what Cassini describes as an usually cold growing season it offers a very elegant nose and grippy but fully ripe tannins in the delicious palate, where 15% alcohol dwells despite the cooler temperatures. The grapes come from Oliver’s Bella Vineyard (not to be confused with Naramata’s Bella Winery), and are said to have spent a full two years in new French oak before bottling, and then several months in bottle while fans patiently awaited their opportunity. Winery Direct $40

Orofino 2014 Petit Verdot: While not nearly as rare as single varietal Carménère, Petit Verdot is still primarily reserved for blending, and not often seen on its own, anywhere for that matter. Cawston’s Orofino Vineyards last released a Petit Verdot from the 2010 vintage, preferring instead to integrate the small amount they receive from the neighbouring Hendsbee Vineyard into their Beleza blend. It would seem that aficionados got lucky in 2014, as enough remained after blending to allow for 75 cases to be assembled, introduced firstly this month to members of the winery’s Collector’s Club. I myself was certain to pick up a bottle while present at the winery on the very day it was released! A bottle of the 2010 vintage enjoyed a couple years back was superb, with strong juicy acidity that should keep it lively for years to come, just as the 2014 is a prime long-term cellar candidate. Winery Direct $45

Clos du Soleil 2013 Estate Reserve Red: While the more prevalent “Signature” is considered the popular flagship red at Clos du Soleil, the smaller lot Estate Reserve is crafted in an even more cellar-worthy style, and sourced exclusively from the organic home vineyard on the Keremeos Upper Bench. Just 200 cases of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec were aged for 18 months in French oak before extended bottle-aging (a year beyond that of the Signature). My bottle came on the fall equinox as part of my bi-annual Wine Club shipment, alongside a bevy of other brand-new reds. With a long life ahead of it the wine will need even more time to mature and knit together – perhaps why it “only” received a Bronze Medal at this year’s National Wine Awards. Nevertheless, Judge Michael Godel felt 90-points appropriate for what he saw as a Bordeaux ringer: “cool and minty, with espresso and dark bitter chocolate...well-positioned, purposed, and appointed.” Winery Direct $60

Tinhorn Creek 2014 The Creek: Just weeks after Tinhorn Creek President Sandra Oldfield introduced her winery’s new flagship wine (23 years in the making) news emerged that she and her partners had sold the winery to Peller and she was departing. With the upcoming sale undoubtedly being negotiated at the time, the launch party must have been bittersweet for Sandra. Perhaps it is apropos that new winemaker Andrew Windsor crafted the inaugural and subsequent vintages, having taken over the role from her in 2014 with Sandra’s blessing. In contrast to Tinhorn’s typical focus on Merlot, (Black Sage Bench) Cabernet Sauvignon leads “The Creek”, comprising more than half the blend with 19% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot, all aged for two years in (40% new) French and Hungarian oak. Early reviews of the 1,475 case production at GismondiOnWine have been very positive, noting the balance and elegance in what is deemed to be an age-worthy wine with strong potential. Winery Direct $63

Stag’s Hollow 2015 Teroldego: Honestly, unless you’re a member of Stag’s Hollow’s Wine Club, or are lucky enough to visit their (brand new) tasting room in the next week, you’ll never see this wine. Only a single barrel came from Winemaker Dwight Sick’s first harvest of this esoteric grape planted in the winery’s young Okanagan Falls “Shuttleworth Creek” vineyard, where it grows alongside Dolcetto. After sending the vast majority to Club members this month a few cases remain for sale in the Stag’s Hollow wine shop to celebrate the Fall Wine Festival. Impressively, Dwight feels it is the best wine on hand at present, despite having recently released 2016 Grenache, 2015 Syrah, and the highly anticipated 2014 Renaissance (Reserve) Meritage – so that speaks volumes! Subsequent vintages are expected to increase in volume, but not massively so, making it very much a prime pinch for wine geeks. Winery Direct $40

Collectibles: August 2017

The several special bottles I’m reserving this month are dominated by classic Cabernet, both parent and child versions in the form of Franc and Sauvignon, respectively. An early August trip to Osoyoos for several days helped in the hunt for some of the small lot exclusives: 400 cases is the largest production quantity amongst these wines. Chance finds at specialty wine stores closer to home rounded out the selection, but in both cases I consider myself very lucky to have nabbed bottles reaching sold out status. The summer’s national award season maintains strong representation, as four acclaimed Gold medal-winners are on the list for those who seek to hunt them down.

Anarchist Mountain 2015 Pinot Noir: From the quintessential “small guys” winery, Anarchist proprietor Terry Meyer-Stone actually founded and runs the Garagiste North Wine Festival. Alongside her husband Andrew Stone the pair produce a mere couple hundred cases of wine from their vineyard above Osoyoos. The Pinot Noir they produce (at the winery of Terry’s brother Jak Meyer) has garnered impressive accolades over the years, and the newest vintage is no exception, with a Gold medal from the recent National Wine Awards. Just 75 cases of the 2015 were produced, and it is long since sold out for direct ordering, but discerning private retailers often get a hold of some. The 2016 should be available soon, likely after undergoing similar wild yeast, whole berry fermentation in primarily neutral French oak. Sutton Place Wine Merchant $40

Harper’s Trail 2015 Cabernet Franc: Ontario Cabernet Franc had quite a run in this year’s National Wine Awards, garnering four Gold medals, while the only Gold for BC went to Kamloops, where Harper’s Trail made 200 cases worth on the banks of the Thompson River. WineAlign’s judges pointed out that cooler vineyards sites are producing “fresh, spirited, and ultimately crushable” iterations of the grape, and Kamloops’ first winery is leading the charge. The elegance elucidated in the tasting notes is reflected in judge Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson’s 91-point review, praising the balance and restraint on display in an exemplar bottle. Although still available in some stores, this vintage has been supplanted by the newly released 2016 at the winery, and the good news is that production has more than doubled from an excellent year. Swirl VQA Store $33

Lock & Worth 2015 Cabernet Franc: I acquired an earlier vintage of this Naramata Bench Franc a couple years back, and it still rests in the cellar; meanwhile I’m happy to bring another on board. Matt Sherlock and Ross Hackworth are excelling in their second venture, when they aren’t busy doing the same at Nichol Vineyard. The twenty-year-old estate vines overlooking the lake are still going strong, expressing themselves well through low-intervention, natural winemaking. Seventeen months in neutral oak has yielded 160 cases that ensure, “you're getting a clear-lens view of the grape,” in the words of GismondiOnWine’s Treve Ring. Her 91-point review this month praised the wine’s rustic intensity and aging potential despite the temptation of present enjoyment. If I hadn’t found the last bottle on the shelf I would crack another one open immediately for some of that impressive “scratchy minerality.” Firefly Fine Wines $37

Black Widow 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon: The red-hot, lengthy 2015 season was one in which Cabernet Sauvignon had some of its best chances to fully ripen, even outside the South Okanagan. Although uncommon, there are a number of high-quality Cabernet vineyards in the Naramata Bench, one of them being the Pocaterra property directly beside Black Widow. From there, Dick Lancaster has obtained superb red grapes to complement the estate vineyard at his arachnid-absorbed winery. Only the second varietal bottling, 100 cases from four selected barrels have now gone on to win (the sole) Gold at the All Canadian Wine Championships (following Double Gold last year for the 2014 vintage). Released this month alongside the other premium 2015 reds, it won’t last long in the highly visible roadside tasting room. Winery Direct $55

Cassini 2012 Godfather Red: In 2010 Adrian Cassini put together the first vintage of a new flagship wine for his namesake winery. The first blend of “The Godfather” added Syrah to the traditional Bordeaux reds of Merlot and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. After a departure in 2011 to one of just Cabernets, the wider blend has returned in 150 cases of the recently released 2012 – combining 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 17% Merlot, and 8% Syrah. A rare taste at the winery offered me a rich, earthy nose and a dense but smooth palate of toasty dark plum and cherries before a lengthy, raisined finish. The 2012 represents the first in what should be a particularly promising series of vintages to come (Cassini’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot having both received Lieutenant Governor’s Awards), but with Adrian having eschewed Syrah as of 2014, I expect further changes in composition to come. Winery Direct $70

Culmina 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon: Since launching a series of single varietal reds in 2013 to complement the flagship Hypothesis blend, the Triggs family’s Golden Mile winery has taken full advantage of the excellent 2014 vintage as well. In the eyes of Anthony Gismondi, the second year of Cabernet Sauvignon is significantly improved: his 89-point review this spring noted the increased finesse and perfect balance, offering aging into 2020. Tasting it myself this summer I noted a palate with enjoyable and ideal fruit focus - currants and Lapin cherries - plus lush tannins with less austerity than the same vintage’s Merlot. John Schreiner offered 93 points to the Sauvignon versus 92 points to Merlot in his June review – either would be well suited for the cellar. About 400 cases were recently released at the winery after 16 months in (25% new) French oak and bottling last June. Winery Direct $45

Moon Curser 2013 Tannat: I’m pretty sure this Osoyoos East Bench Tannat is still the only game in town, and there are few other locations in Canada that could even attempt the grape. Although blended with Syrah for the winery’s flagship “Dead of Night”, a few barrels are reserved for the single varietal bottling that resumed (after a brief absence) in 2012. Gone is the quirky “Tannant” nomenclature of that vintage, in which a typographical label error led the winery to embrace the Quebecois vernacular for “irritating”; now the proper varietal name is in place. After bottling in early 2015 - following a couple years maturation in (30% new) French oak, more have passed before this summer’s release of 121 cases; coinciding nicely with the Gold medal recently received at the National Wine Awards. Even after four years there is little hurry to unleash the full-bodied character, as the winery suggests another decade in bottle (sealed under screwcap no less) is within reason. Winery Direct $43

Collectibles: January 2017

Although maintaining budgetary restraint before the upcoming Vancouver International Wine Festival – and the acquisition opportunities it offers – is often necessary this month, a few collectibles must be mentioned. Upon review I was very pleased to have amassed a diverse range to launch the year, from Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir to Osoyoos Tannat. Any one of these exceptional wines would keep you warm in the crisp weather that remains in our midst, but could easily handle aging to even further greatness in the years ahead.

Carson 2014 Pinot Noir: When he isn’t delivering world class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for the Meyer family in Okanagan Falls, Winemaker Chris Carson quietly releases small lots of his own-branded bottles. A mere 295 cases of Naramata Bench Pinot Noir came from a one and a half acre block in 2014, hand harvested and wild fermented before spending 11 months in (one third new) French oak. Carson makes no bones about the wine’s cellaring potential, listing an optimistic 15 years on the label, but he’s built up a lot of trust at Meyer that carries over to the personal brand he started in 2011. The Dijon 115 clone makes for what Anthony Gismondi feels is an “exuberant, fruity, spicy” wine even riper than the superb 2013 I was more than happy to acquire previously. Marquis Wine Cellars $40

Averill Creek 2014 Somenos Series Pinot Noir: It’s no secret Vancouver Island wines are a rarity in retail stores just a few kilometers across the Straight of Georgia. I get few opportunities to add the Island’s top wines to my collection, but jumped at the chance to piggyback on a friend’s case order for this extreme rarity. Already highly respected for his complex and finely crafted Pinot Noir, Proprietor Andy Johnston stepped up his game recently with the new premium-tier Somenos Series. The inaugural Pinot Noir is the Cowichan Valley’s bold, earthy, rich expression of the grape, and a wine Anthony Gismondi puts in contention for the Island’s best Pinot Noir yet. Keep your eyes peeled to see if any of the 300 cases make it over to the mainland. Winery Direct $44

Cassini 2013 Grand Reserve “Nobilus” Merlot: I stopped by Cassini Cellars’ convenient roadside Golden Mile winery late last year just as three new premium reds were released. Despite having closed the tasting room for the season proprietor Adrian Cassini generously took time away from several recently-arrived bins of (immaculate) grapes to ring in my enthusiastic purchase. The Merlot is his smallest lot of the batch, with only 187 cases produced after two years in new French oak, and was named best in class with a Double Gold at the 2016 All Canadian Wine Championships. John Schreiner focused on the new “high calibre” reds in his December review, finding the Merlot worthy of 92 points amid mention of its superb aging potential. Winery Direct $40

Cassini 2013 Collector’s Series Cabernet Franc: The new follow-up to last year’s Lieutenant Governor’s Award-winner has continued the tradition of excellence, taking home a Gold medal from the All Canadians last spring. It’s hard not to be taken in by Liam Carrier’s recent enthusiasm for the “stunningly beautiful” and utterly unique profile that evokes the coasts of California and Australia. Mention of the Cabernet Franc goes hand in hand with the equally superb 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (“The Aristocrat”), bought from the winery at the same time. Last May the 2012 vintage received 94 points and a Best in Class nod from the Los Angeles International Wine Competition; the 2013 is already equally highly regarded: 93 points from John Schreiner parallels Wine of the Year praise from the fans at IconWines. Winery Direct $34

Painted Rock 2014 Red Icon: Although 1,153 cases were ultimately produced of this top tier red from the Skaha Bench, it remains a preeminent collectible alongside other smaller lot rarities. Given the wine’s cachet it can often be just as hard to come by as much more limited bottles, resulting in an early release when the Painted Rock tasting room ran out of 2013! The (thoughtful) roller-coaster blend in Red Icon upped Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon this vintage, to combine 33% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc, 19% Malbec, 16% Petit Verdot, and (still only) 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. The established oak regime using just 30% new barrels should let the ripe 2014 fruit shine, even over the long haul (where the wine really excels). John Schreiner sought to “stay one step ahead of Decanter” (where Painted Rock’s wines are increasingly reviewed quite favourably) with a taste in September, complimenting the svelte polish with 94 points of praise. Winery Direct $55

Burrowing Owl 2013 Meritage: With the arrival of 2013, the days are numbered for 2007 in my cellar – the old must make way for the new, and a decade is long enough to slumber. Needing room for the newest vintage is great motivation for drinking up its well-aged ancestors. After at least fourteen vintages of Meritage this legendary Black Sage Bench winery is one of the few to retain the trademarked nomenclature for their flagship red. The name is technically accurate, given the blend of 39% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec, so why fix what isn’t broken. The components spent a total of 21 months in barrel (18 separately before blending), ensconced within a complex mix of European and American oaks of various ages. Finding a few bottles at retail level is unusual, but Burrowing Owl seems to be loosening up their notoriously tight grip in favour of greater shelf presence these past couple years. Firefly Fine Wine & Ales $58

Moon Curser 2014 Dead of Night: Chris Tolley’s commitment to – and success with – Tannat has yielded one of BC’s most unusual and desirable wines. Although uncommon varieties are prevalent at the Tolley family’s Osoyoos winery this equal-parts blend of Syrah and Tannat is considered the icon, and well known for its rich intensity. In 2014 the terrific growing season was a boon to heat-loving reds: one of the Tannat lots – a blend of both estate vineyards – came in at nearly 28 brix! After what must have been an exciting fermentation, the components aged in French and Hungarian oak for one year, with just 25% of the barrels being new. Bottled last March at a generous 14.6% declared alcohol (and nearly 3g/L of sugar remaining) it should age wonderfully under screwcap despite the fine and soft tannins said to exist at present. I’m in no rush as the 2009 vintage stares me down from the wine fridge. Winery Direct $43

Collectibles: March 2016

Buds are already starting to show on the grape vines as wine country wakes from winter’s slumber. I received three club shipments this month as spring operations begin alongside the 2016 vintage. A few club reds were combined with some gems I brought home from the Vancouver International Wine Festival to yield a healthy compilation of collectibles. Some of the local Wine Festival wines are not yet released to the public, having been sold in limited quantities exclusively at the Festival store, but as wineries open their doors this month and next availability will increase dramatically.

Quails’ Gate 2014 Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir: The legendary West Kelowna winery’s flagship product is a staple for collectors, and the newest vintage (of 974 cases) was very fortunately on offer at the Wine Festival. A taste provided generous and precise varietal character from the winery’s Mount Boucherie Bench old vines (12-29 years of age). My notes ended up duplicating the recently released formal tasting notes detailing spiced red berry fruit. In the last few years Quails’ Gate has consistently aged their Reserve Pinot Noir for ten months in 50% new French oak; this year replicates the same formula for success. Drinking impressively well now it should age marvellously, secured under screw cap. VIWF Store $45

Gold Hill 2013 Cabernet Franc: The first release from 2009 won this new Golden Mile winery (from experienced wine growing brothers Sant and Gurbachan Gill) a Lieutenant Governor’s Award and multiple high accolades. I was excited to find the Gill family manning the booth at their first Vancouver Wine Festival, and soon found myself under the spell of their impressive Cabernet Franc’s newest vintage. The beautifully aromatic nose brought me back repeatedly for another sniff, and the luscious texture solidified my purchase decision. The solid value price of $27 at the winery will keep Gold Hill well within the ranks of local Franc producers to watch. VIWF Store $29

Sandhill 2013 Small Lots Syrah: The legendary Syrah that Winemaker Howard Soon crafts from the Phantom Creek Vineyard on Black Sage Bench is always in high demand, and seldom seen in stores. Shortly after the newest vintage was released last September it was awarded a prestigious Platinum medal at the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival’s BC Wine Awards. Surprisingly it took until now to sell out at the winery, particularly given that only 250 cases (fresh from 14 months in new American oak) were produced. I spent the autumn fruitlessly scanning shelves in every wine store I entered, being unable to visit the Kelowna tasting room in person this year. Imagine my surprise when I recently came across a single bottle on the shelf of my local BC Liquor Store. BC Liquor Stores $41

Poplar Grove 2012 CSM: A spring release red available to Wine Club members, the CSM tends to fly a little bit under the radar given the popularity of the winery’s Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and The Legacy icon red blend. CSM is produced in relatively small quantities, and typically exclusive to the winery tasting room, with Club members getting first crack at it upon release. This year’s blend is primarily Merlot (51%) and Syrah (41%), with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon bringing up the rear. The three grapes were naturally fermented, separately, and aged for 21 months in French oak before another year of bottle aging. Like most of Poplar Grove’s reds it is an excellent cellar candidate, with the winery suggesting up to decade from vintage. Winery Direct $35

Culmina 2013 Merlot: Owners Don & Elaine Triggs and daughter Sara were all present at the recent Wine Festival, showcasing their young Golden Mile winery’s first single-varietal reds. The gorgeous floral blueberry nose and palate of the Merlot caught my attention immediately, sending me dashing to the on-site store for a bottle (from only 168 cases). Having sampled the wine just before the Festival, John Schreiner complimented the “voluptuous texture” in his enthusiastic 92-point review. The Triggs were also pouring samples of the equally new Small Lots Cabernet Sauvignon, well-structured and complex with great aging potential: had any of the 96 cases been for sale on site I certainly would have snagged a bottle! VIWF Store $35

Cassini 2012 “The Aristocrat” Cabernet Sauvignon: I received the valuable opportunity to taste this superb wine at the winery over New Year’s, during a visit with the BC Wine Appreciation Society. Despite the highly appealing concentrated, ripe dark fruit (from an Osoyoos East Bench vineyard), I initially hesitated to buy given the preponderance of 2012 wines overflowing from my cellar – including Cassini’s equally exciting Cabernet Franc. By March I had reconsidered – especially given how few retail stores feature this rarity (only 190 cases were produced after selecting 8 barrels from amongst 45). Highly affirmative reviews – such as John Schreiner’s praise for the “rich and polished texture” – have helped encourage me to find a spot amongst the other excellent 2012 reds. Swirl VQA Store $47

LaStella 2012 Arioso Sangiovese Grosso: The production of a premium Brunello-style Sangiovese from this outstanding Italian-inspired Osoyoos winery has long been the hope of their many fans. For years a small proportion of Sangiovese went into the “Fortissimo” Super-Tuscan blend, but in 2012 sufficient volume was apparently available to bottle a single select barrel (25 cases) as a rare pure varietal wine. Even more than three years after harvest it remains a (stunningly aromatic) beast of a wine in the eyes of winery staff, who haven’t yet decided on a formal release date given the decades they believe it could age. Those bottles not yet allocated to the winery’s elite Wine Society could begin trickling out later this fall, assuming any remain unspoken for. An ultra-rare collector’s item worth every penny for BC wine adventurers. Winery Direct $69

Collectibles: February 2016

With the holiday shopping (and drinking) season still hanging over our heads few new wine releases are usually forthcoming in the first couple months of the year. I myself have introduced only a handful of new bottles into my cellar since December, hence no January Collectibles entry. A couple choice selections from a trip to Osoyoos over New Year’s with the BC Wine Appreciation Society are included this month, along with some new wines from the same neighbourhood thanks to a recent Wine Club shipment from Moon Curser.

Van Westen 2014 “VD” Pinot Noir: Robert Van Westen and his Pinot Noir partner Tom DiBello maintain a good sense of humour, evident not only by the cheeky name of their collaboration, but in their decision to release it annually on Valentine’s Day. This year marks the fourth vintage for the small lot specialty very popular amongst those in the know on Rob’s mailing list. The Naramata vineyard yields a rather intense wine due to additional hang time necessitated by the north-facing tilt: Rob mentions baking spice, savoury meatiness, and dark chocolate characteristics to accompany the fruit flavours. A relatively bountiful 135 cases represents the largest production yet, and a welcome increase from last year’s miniscule two barrels (51 cases). Winery Direct $40

SpierHead 2014 Pinot Noir Cuvée: This young Kelowna winery has gotten into Pinot Noir in a big way, with four different new releases making their way to market. Always savvy marketers, SpierHead sent review samples broadly to the local community, ensuring strong publicity for wines they had every reason about which to be confident. The flagship Cuvée represents the best barrels, blended to produce 274 cases from five clones across the winery’s vineyards, and then aged for ten months in French oak. It has already garnered praise for being “rich in complexity and texture,” in addition to “concentrated and seductive,” with much potential to “relax and grow in the bottle over the next two to three years.”  Sutton Place Wine Merchant $41

Moon Curser 2013 Petit Verdot: This adventurous Osoyoos winery has been producing varietal Petit Verdot for a few years, one of only a small handful of local ventures doing so. It’s always a small lot release, this time only 246 cases from the Osoyoos East Bench, and part of the reserve “Contraband Series”. Interestingly, only one third of the wine was exposed to any expressive oak (new French in this case), with the remainder fermented in steel and then aged in neutral barrels for a year. The early harvest of mature grapes (24.5 Brix by October 16th) and restraint in the cellar should yield fruit forward characteristics, with the winery suggesting it is more “supple and generous” than previous vintages. Winery Direct $32

Cassini 2011 The Godfather: After a few years in operation and growing success, Proprietor Adrian Cassini introduced an icon red blend in the form of “The Godfather”. The new 2011 is only the second vintage, reflecting the highly respectable increased emphasis on bottle aging Adrian has put in place recently. In the case of The Godfather, time in bottle will most certainly have helped settle it after 24 months in 100% new French oak! The wine is a blend of the best barrels and varieties from the cellar, and doesn’t follow a predictable formula, this year bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) and Cabernet Franc (14%) to yield a mere 150 cases. Seeing as The Godfather is rarely seen outside the winery tasting room, I took advantage of the New Year’s trip to pick up this rarity. Winery Direct $70

Moon Curser 2013 Border Vines: Another brand new release included in my latest club shipment, the Border Vines is Moon Curser’s prevalent (1,710 cases) red blend. In past years the inclusion of Carménère has rounded out the six-grape blend, complementing the more traditional Cabernets, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot – putting it a step above others. However, it seems Cabernet Franc didn’t fit the bill for 2013, as it is notably absent this year, making for 32% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 18% Petit Verdot, and 4% Carménère. It’s certainly surprising to see so much Petit Verdot, especially from a winery that also bottles a straight varietal of the grape; Chris Tolley always keeps things interesting! I added the new vintage to my rotating vertical of this little gem, pushing the 2009 to the top of the queue for upcoming consumption; fortunately it should be well preserved under screwcap. Winery Direct $27

Nk’Mip 2013 Mer’r’iym Meritage: While the 2012 vintage of Nk’Mip’s relatively new icon red blend is still listed online (and sold out to boot), the 2013 was found in generous quantities at the Osoyoos tasting room during my visit over New Year’s. The big bold red from some of the Okanagan’s southernmost vineyards is built to age elegantly, and now that I have the 2013 I can finally open my inaugural 2008 to make room in the rotating vertical I keep. Surprisingly, Nk’Mip elected on a blend dominated by three quarters Merlot, despite the beneficial vintage conditions that would imply Cabernet Sauvignon, in this case bringing up the rear at only 12%, with 7% Malbec, and 5% Cabernet Franc to balance the profile. Regardless, it should age just fine (given suggestions regarding past vintages) as I await the 2018 vintage release that bumps this one into consumption status. Winery Direct $50

Osoyoos Larose 2012 Le Grand Vin: Despite just picking up the 2011 vintage in December, the new 2012 has already been spotted on store shelves. As John Schreiner pointed out at the end of last year, reduced production quantities from 2010 and 2011 meant the 2012 was released early despite the potential benefits of bottle aging. This newest release comes just as news has emerged that new Winemaker Mathieu Mercier is himself being replaced by Jean-Marc Enixon, in a friendly staff rotation by estate owner Groupe Taillan. Mathieu would have aged and blended the 2012 after Pascal Madevon departed in early 2013. He settled on a final configuration of 50% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec that charmed Schreiner into a 94-point score (and prompted Anthony Gismondi to declare it “one of the best young Osoyoos Larose we have tasted”). Swirl VQA Store $45

Collectibles: December 2015

The end of the calendar year is usually fairly slow in terms of wine releases, as those in the industry take well-deserved vacations, or at least bide their time awaiting the icewine harvest. That being said, I was quite happy to take delivery this month of my biannual wine club shipment from Painted Rock, and spend some time picking up a handful of other singular sips. Some bottles were expressly intended to continue growing vertical collections, while others represented lucky acquisitions of hard-to-come-by rarities. In amongst the joy of gift shopping for family and friends a few treats for my future self didn’t seem over the top.

Painted Rock 2013 Syrah: Ever since the first vintage in 2007 this has been one of my favourite BC Syrah. Proprietor John Skinner likes to recount his hesitation in planting the variety until he was strongly encouraged by legendary wine writer John Schreiner. The grape sings from Skinner’s sun-soaked Skaha Bench vineyard, and the latest release of 1,622 cases should easily continue the tradition of excellence. A steady decline in the use of new oak at Painted Rock has left only 30% in such barrels (for 18 months), 80% of them French. Early reviews have praised the perfumed aroma and white peppered, dark berry flavours: Anthony Gismondi recently remarked on the beneficial aromatics of “mid-valley” Syrah such as this one in his 90-point review. Winery Direct $40

Cassini 2012 Cabernet Franc: Receiving a Lieutenant Governor’s Award in June for this dynamic Cabernet Franc must have tempted Adrian Cassini with immediate sales potential, yet it only recently came on the market. Of course, a mere 222 cases have disappeared out the door with rapidity, but a select number of retail locations received small allotments. Technically the wine contains 5% Merlot as well, aged alongside the Franc for two full years in new oak (80% French). My own recent tasting experiences agree with the many exuberant reviews, including that from Lt. Governor’s Award Judge John Schreiner, who remarked on the exquisite aroma. Icon Wines’ Liam Carrier found it to be “truly gorgeous” upon tasting in late October; well worthy of 92+ points plus a long and prosperous life in the cellar. Swirl VQA Store $35

Painted Rock 2013 Merlot: Painted Rock only produces 5,000 cases of wine per year, with the varietal Merlot serving alongside Syrah as the winery’s workhorse – combined they comprise nearly two thirds of production. From the 2013 vintage a full 1,746 cases of Merlot are soon to be released, after the same oak aging regime as the Syrah (18 months, 30% new, 80% French). Past experience has shown the Merlot to be a dark horse, taking some time to mature before showing off highly memorable character – this one in particular is a superb cellar candidate. John Schreiner suggested “five or more years” until it will blossom, with enough confidence in the brooding, concentrated texture for 92 points at present. Winery Direct $40

Stag’s Hollow 2013 Cachet No. 04: After a two year hiatus the top-tier Cachet series is joined by a fourth wine with the recent, long-awaited release of No. 04, a creative blend of 57% Petit Verdot, 37% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Exclusively winery direct at present, the price somewhat reflects desire to slowly meter out limited stock – just 117 cases were produced. That’s not to say this continuation of the series isn’t worth every penny, comparable in the eyes of Winemaker Dwight Sick to other local icon reds in the same price range. The predecessor 2010 Cachet No. 03 brought the winery a Lieutenant Governor’s Award in 2013, and No. 04 received a Gold medal at this summer’s National Wine Awards. Bottles are still hand-numbered, with mine coming in at #1339 of 1405; let’s hope Dwight kept #1 for himself! Winery Direct $69

Van Westen 2012 V: Adding the newest bottle of Rob Van Westen’s Bordeaux blend gives me a four-year vertical since the first vintage in 2009. I may open that aged example late next year when the 2013 is released, but there is no hurry as Rob’s wines are notoriously long-lived (he was mentored by Bill Eggert after all). Unlike Rob’s long-running two thirds Merlot and one third Cabernet Franc blend “Voluptuous”, the V contains five Bordeaux varieties, in this case 45% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 17% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. The small production model is maintained however, and only 346 cases were produced, despite the solid growing season. The high quality harvest that year has left the wine with heady aromas and density of flavour, sufficient for a Silver medal at the National Wine Awards. Winery Direct $35

Sandhill 2012 Small Lots One: The Small Lots series provides a playground for Winemaker Howard Soon to drill down even further into Sandhill’s single vineyard philosophy. The “One” typically comes from the 7-acre Black Sage Bench Phantom Creek Vineyard, from which Howard obtained twenty (new American oak) barrels of an eclectic blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon (three clones), 11% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Syrah, 3.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Merlot. The wine was originally released in February, but took longer to show up on store shelves outside the Kelowna tasting room; that being said it’s now sold out there while retail stock remains available. The “One” represents another rotating vertical collection for which I now have 2009-2012 awaiting future consumption. With four years to go until the 2016 bumps this vintage from the cellar I can provide it with sufficient time to “settle down” as Anthony Gismondi suggests. Swirl VQA Store $40

Osoyoos Larose 2011 Le Grand Vin: The newest icon red from the equally iconic Osoyoos Larose brand is the second last vintage in which original, long-serving Winemaker Pascal Madevon had a hand. After his departure (for Culmina) in January of 2013 new Winemaker Mathieu Mercer would have completed blending trials that summer to yield the final combination of 48% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The winery indicates that Cabernet Sauvignon is more dominant than in previous vintages, a surprising choice given the notoriously cool vintage conditions in 2011. The typically heavy tannins of Le Grand Vin will require time, and aging until 2021-2023 is suggested by the winery. With pleasing harmony, 2021 is precisely when I hope to add the 2017 vintage to my cellar, necessitating consumption of the 2011. Swirl VQA Store $50

Collectibles: March 2015

In addition to some Australian icons, I brought home a few local treats from the Vancouver International Wine Festival. I used to acquire at least a case of BC wine from the Festival’s on-site store, but local retail availability has improved so much in the last few years my Festival take has declined. I no longer need to rush into the Festival store immediately upon entry, because it turns out I already have many of the home-grown rarities on offer. This is a good thing, in that it reflects a diversity of BC wine amongst the Vancouver retail market – let’s hope this sector remains robust in the face of recent regulatory challenges.

Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2013: The Wine Festival was the first venue to exhibit Quails’ Gate’s newest Reserve Pinot Noir. Having just bottled their flagship wine in December (after 10 months in 50% new French oak), the winery poured and sold the Family Reserve at the Festival as a preview just prior to release of 1,015 cases at the winery. This was new winemaker Nikki Calloway’s first vintage, as she took over from Grant Stanley in August of that year, following great success with Pinot Noir at Mission Hill. VIWF Store/Winery Direct $45

JoieFarm “En Famille” Reserve Pinot Noir 2012: Testing the patience of loyal customers Joie decided to add additional bottle age to their Reserve Pinot starting with the 2012. Rather than aim for release shortly after 8 months in barrel were complete, an additional 18 months were provided for in bottle (original plans were for 24 months). Attentive treatment of diverse grapes (six clones from Naramata, Skaha, and Summerland) has yielded Heidi Noble’s oft-mentioned bacon flavours, in what the winery feels is their most robust Pinot Noir to date; worthy of a prestigious gold medal at the 2014 Decanter Awards. Swirl VQA Store $36

Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt Syrah 2010: I’ve had an empty spot on the shelf awaiting this bottle for several months. Although officially released back in September 2013, it has taken some time to show up on store shelves (many still sell the 2009 in fact). Previous vintages are awash in trophies, and this one continued the trend with a gold medal at the 2014 National Wine Awards. Nk’Mip’s southern Okanagan vineyards consistently yield superb Syrah from ideal terroir. We should consider ourselves lucky it’s been afforded some bottle age so as to knit together the dense palate. BC Liquor Stores $35

Cassini Cellars Grand Reserve Syrah 2011: Adrian Cassini was present at the Wine Festival with this small lot gem, very much deserving of the moniker. Just three barrels worth were apparently culled from the remaining 22 barrels of Collector’s Series Syrah. I always enjoy and appreciate when the term “Reserve” is used in its most literal sense. Despite not being mentioned on the Cassini website yet, the wine was awarded a silver medal at the National Wine Awards last year. At around the same time John Schreiner described it as “complex and brooding” – worthy of time in my cellar to intimidate the other bottles. VIWF Store/Winery Direct $39

Red Rooster Reserve Syrah 2012: Another Wine Festival snag, which is rarely seen outside the winery. Winemaker Karen Gillis was personally present to pour and discuss the wine, of which a previous vintage (2010) brought her a Lieutenant Governor’s Award. The winery’s Syrah webpage was just updated, listing only 377 cases produced, with some confusion as to provenance: although initially said to be sourced from Oliver, it is later said to be from the Similkameen Valley’s Vanessa Vineyard, with a touch of Osoyoos Petit Verdot. Seeing as the VQA certification is for the less specific “British Columbia” appellation the dual valley origin seems most likely. VIWF Store/Winery Direct $30

TIME Syrah 2012: The very first varietal Syrah from Harry McWatters’ relatively new winery project on the Black Sage Bench (although the vineyard itself is quite mature). Like other new BC Syrah it was previewed at the Wine Festival, where I enjoyed the savoury aromas, clean dark fruit, and spicy pepper flavours. TIME’s first Cabernet Franc (from the same vintage), released last year, was extremely popular and a superb value. This small 100 case production could sell out quite rapidly, but one would imagine Harry is holding some back for sale at his new winery and tasting room when it opens early fall. VIWF Store/Winery Direct $35

Stag’s Hollow Cabernet Franc 2012: I got the chance to sample this beauty at the tasting that followed The Grape Debate in January – it was a highlight of the evening. The wine received a silver medal at the BC Wine Awards last fall, and contains grapes from four different geographically distinct vineyards: 8% of the wine is actually a blend of (Okanagan Falls) Merlot and (Osoyoos) Petit Verdot. Fresh, ripe, and very well balanced, it should be just as memorable after a couple years in the cellar. Swirl VQA Store $31

Synchromesh Reserve Cabernet Franc 2012: Having been hearing more and more buzz about Synchromesh’s red program recently (following a 2013 Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Riesling), I paid special attention when I saw this unknown wine at Marquis Wine Cellars. A short conversation with proprietor Alan Dickinson provided description of a particularly pure and exquisite single barrel (neutral French oak) from Turtle Rock Farms on the Naramata Bench. The 23 cases produced were primarily intended for the Synchromesh Wine Club; a handful of lucky restaurants and stores got one case each. Marquis Wine Cellars $55

BC Syrah Spices Up Wine Festival

In the days leading up to the prestigious Vancouver International Wine Festival I reviewed the potential contributions of the twenty-seven BC wineries that would be attending. With the Festival’s “Feature Variety” being Syrah this year there would be ample opportunity for local wineries to exhibit their world- class presentations of the grape – which thrives in the desert vineyards of Oliver & Osoyoos in particular. As the grateful recipient of a Media Pass for the Festival’s International Tasting Room I spent time exploring a great many Australian Shiraz from the Theme Region, but the lovely local competitors stood out as well.

Several sessions in the Tasting Room at the Vancouver Convention Centre ensured I was able to find and enjoy fifteen BC wineries sampling their Syrah. There were wines from entry to icon level, miniscule small lots and market-spanning productions, all poured with pride by the Winemakers and Proprietors in attendance. I tasted many existing favourites, found new ones, and relished trying wines I hadn’t expected when I previewed the most likely wines last month.

With the national sections laid out in sensible alphabetical order I started my BC review at Backyard Vineyards, the growing Langley winery recently joined by capable and experienced Winemaker James Cambridge. James poured me 2012 Syrah, harvested before his arrival, and a sample of 2013 he has managed in full since harvest. The youthful tannins in the 2012 were obvious, but the clean and fruity palate showed off lovely cherry flavours. Fresher and also bigger in body was the 2013, with a luscious palate presenting jammy character.

Next door I found Glenn Fawcett, President of acclaimed Black Hills, pouring his 2012 Syrah, still toasty and young after a year in bottle. The wine can be found in some stores but is sold out at the winery. A juicy, spicy palate and sweet vanilla notes proved more than sufficient for current enjoyment while the newly-bottled 2013 awaits release. Just across the aisle Adrian Cassini was providing a glimpse at his ultra-rare Cassini Cellars “Grand Reserve” 2011 Syrah, of which a mere 75 cases were produced. The intense black cherry aromas followed through on the long finish of the rich cherry pie palate. To pour such a rarity at the Festival is commendable, considering it will likely sell out at the winery in short order.

The table of wines from Haywire was being shown off by the enthusiastic team at Okanagan Crush Pad, including newly-promoted Chief Winemaker Matt Dumayne. The 2012 Syrah yielded a fresh, expressive nose with plenty of fruit and a hint of leather – aging in old French barrels kept the fruit first and foremost. It’s quite quaffable, and definitely one of the best values at only $21 for Black Sage Bench fruit. Just around the corner Laughing Stock power couple David & Cynthia Enns were present with their highly coveted Platinum medal 2012 Syrah. Sourced from their Osoyoos vineyard, the wine greatly impressed, with a nose of sweet flowers and perfumed leather – clean and fresh in part due to 4% Viognier. The gorgeous full palate was awash in pure dark berry fruit, with white pepper and chocolate flavours on top. With the 2012 now sold out at the winery fans are eagerly awaiting the 2013 release in June.

Back-to-back at the end of the row, flanking the Wines of BC booth, I found Painted Rock and Poplar Grove. John Skinner was on hand to pour his 2012 Painted Rock Syrah, already yielding much more fruit expression than the youthful bottle I opened in December. As the initial oak treatment integrates, flavours of bright cherry and strawberry are coming out to complement aromas of vanilla and leather. A curtain away, Poplar Grove Winemaker Stefan Arnason was slinging the newly released 2011 Syrah, after 18 months of bottle age. Despite the cooler 2011 season, the refreshing wine provided a very nice, clean, fruity profile that benefits from a touch of Viognier. Stefan’s take is that his Syrah program is “dialled in” with no changes desired or expected going forward, and none are seemingly needed.

Less than two years since winning a Lt. Governor’s Award for her 2010 Reserve Syrah, Red Rooster Winemaker Karen Gillis was present with the 2012 iteration. Although the wine is not yet officially released it was already displaying a lingering fruit forward profile with sweet spice and a silky texture. Things got a bit darker next door at Road 13 where the charming Joe & Laura Luckhurst were pouring 2012 Syrah, another upcoming release being readied for an April debut. The co-fermented blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier includes 15% Similkameen fruit to complement the Golden Mile winery’s Okanagan vineyards. A rich, toasty nose revealed generous dark fruit and mocha on the memorable palate – a powerful wine that Joe suggested “will follow you home.” I’ll be sure to keep a bed warm for this one!

When not busy graciously accepting his Spirited Industry Professional Award, Sandhill Winemaker Howard Soon was pouring two 2012 Syrah for eager guests. The excitement was to be expected considering Howard’s 2007 Small Lots Syrah was named Best Red Wine in Canada at the Canadian Wine Awards. The 2012 vintage continues the tradition of excellence with a complex profile of leather and earth, delicious milk chocolate, and attractive burnt sugar aromas. The 2012 Estate Syrah was also on hand, offering superb value at only $20 for a very accessible wine with ripe fruit and an enjoyably full texture.

More notable Syrah was present at nearby See Ya Later, where the 2012 “Rover” was being poured, showing off the BC Wine Award’s inaugural “Premier’s Award” for best wine. Having tasted it last fall I found the somewhat dichotomous sweet fruit and oak are now melding into a more complete wine. I also look forward to seeing what it becomes after a couple more years in bottle. Right next door I found another table of multiple Syrah, where Summerhill’s CEO Ezra Cipes was present pouring dual vintages. A 2010 Osoyoos-sourced Syrah from a vineyard transitioning to organic status provided tart cherry flavours and a smooth, easy drinking palate. The small lot “Spadefoot Toad Vineyard” 2011 Syrah was in bottle mere days, but provided a long, fresh fruit finish following the understandably restrained nose.

At the TIME Winery table, Harry McWatters was proud to present not just a new release, but his young winery’s first varietal Syrah, a natural fit for his Sundial vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. Six months after bottling (just 100 cases) the nose is still a little closed, but enticing savoury, meaty character was present. The lush, clean palate yielded ripe blackberry flavours with gamey, black pepper hints. Similar spicy notes came from another surprise next door at Tinhorn Creek, where the rare 2011 Oldfield Series Syrah was actually open for tasting – despite it having been sold out virtually since release last fall. A fragrant, fruity nose and juicy palate provided another reminder that the cool 2011 vintage was far from universally negative, despite the severe cropping required to yield just 168 cases from Tinhorn’s Black Sage and Golden Mile Bench vineyards.

Given my own favouritism for Syrah in general, particularly the exciting variety of styles and consistently high quality found in BC, this year’s Festival was extremely enjoyable for me. I am very grateful to have received media accreditation and admission to selected events, with particular thanks to Heth PR for their hard work supervising the accreditation process. As Australian wine enjoys a well-deserved renaissance thanks to the Festival, I’m sure the hard work is already ramping back up for next year’s celebration of Italy!