SpierHead Tasting II & Blending Experiment

Following a late May release party and tasting of wines from new Kelowna winery SpierHead I was honoured to receive samples of the six wines I tasted that day from owner Bill Knutson. Having given them sufficient time to recover from the bottle shock winemaker Tom DiBello warned us about in May I finally managed to coordinate some friends for a tasting this past weekend. We started with the two whites currently available – 2010 Chardonnay and Riesling – while the four reds decanted for a couple of hours (all four came from the 2009 vintage).

While I had recalled more tropical flavours and orchard fruit aromas in the Chardonnay the experience we had at present was of a toasty wine that also possessed significant mineral notes. Knowing that only a very small percentage had seen oak treatment (using staves instead of barrels) I was honestly surprised by how much oak influence now comes through. My “tasting panel” described aromas reminiscent of smoked cheddar, charcoal, and flint, while being unable to pull out any specific fruits. Judging by our experience it would appear that Icon Wines’ suggestion of focusing on the “austere and mineral characteristics” to yield a Chablis doppelganger in the future would indeed be quite feasible.

The Riesling followed and invoked a great deal of praise for the refreshing, bright fruit flavours and long finish. Fruits such as mango, pineapple, and especially lime and green apple were detected, with even crab-apple making an appearance for some. In the months since I first sampled this wine it was received positive reviews from many local critics, including Anthony Gismondi, Daenna Van Mulligen, and Jurgen Gothe, plus Liam Carrier at Icon Wines. This was one of the more memorable wines of the evening, and came out on top of most guests’ favourites list.

The backdrop for the four red wines were some delicious pizzas from Firewood Cafe, which helped keep us upright as we surpassed the 1:1 person-to-bottle ratio. We began with the Merlot, possessing a rich velvety nose of vanilla, black liquorice, and red fruit. Panel members reported that it smelled “warm and cozy” and the smooth texture was paired with a delicious finish of ripe black cherry flavours. Ultimately the Merlot was declared to be the favourite red of the tasting. The Cabernet Franc was next: lighter in colour with less rich aromatics it was more acidic and brighter than the Merlot. The spicy palate had elements of cranberry, blood orange, and even some pepper on the end; it paired quite well with pizza sprinkled in hot sauce, while the Merlot was said to have been excellent purely on its own. The final single varietal wine was the Cabernet Sauvignon, which possessed a similar fruit profile to the Cabernet Franc but without the spiciness. It was dark and rich, with aromas of currants quite prevalent, as well as acidity and some tannins on the palate.

The final bottle of red was SpierHead’s approachable Bordeaux/Meritage blend, “Vanguard”. Vanguard blends Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), and Cabernet Franc (10%) – the same three grapes found in the single varietals we had just tasted. Knowing this going in I had the idea of attempting to create our own reproduction of Vanguard using the three varietal wines, to examine how blended wines integrate and incorporate the multiple grape varieties used. Before doing so we tried out the Vanguard with palates fresh from tasting the three components: the wine is quite tasty, and the components work together nicely. The richness of the Merlot could be detected alongside the tannins in the Cabernet Sauvignon, and the spiciness from the Cabernet Franc was also noticeable. Without having just tasted all three of those single varietals we would not have been able to so easily detect and appreciate what each brought to the blend, so it was already a really interesting learning experience.

The components in Vanguard were each fermented and aged separately for 18 months before blending and bottling in May, so all told the wine has been integrating for almost four months. Our reproduction would be integrating for about four minutes, so differences were expected! Carefully measuring the remaining amounts of each single varietal we combined them to create “Vanguard II”, with the same exact proportions as the original. Comparing the two alongside one another they smelled nearly identical; it was on the palate that the differences became apparent. Our blend was said to taste “like the exact same wine but a year younger,” with more tannins and green notes apparent. Feeling adventurous we even made “Vanguard III” with the remaining wine, using 55% Merlot this time, plus 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The higher proportion of Merlot definitely upped the warm flavours as the tannins decreased; this would probably yield a wine with less aging potential than the original Vanguard, but we enjoyed it.

There are only two other wineries I can think of with which you could attempt an endeavour similar to our own: Fairview Cellars and Sumac Ridge. Both release varietal Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, although the two wineries could not be more different! The extremely small lots released by Fairview Cellars’ owner Bill Eggert would be much harder to find than the Sumac Ridge wines, but his legendary prowess with reds – Cabernet Sauvignon in particular – would likely yield a very rewarding experience remaking red blends such as “Two Hoots” and “Madcap Red”. The more widely available wines from Sumac Ridge may be a better bet for those wanting to try a similar experiment at home (should SpierHead be unavailable of course): they can often be found in BC Liquor Stores and VQA Stores across the province. Get some friends together with a few bottles of wine and you’ll be thoroughly entertained while gaining a greater understanding of and appreciation for the art of the blend.

The BC Wine Variety Show

Last week we enjoyed an entertaining wine tasting at home for some new friends from south of the border – Arizona to be precise – as well as an old friend moving away to New York – her last night in Vancouver! Also present was another old friend, an experienced veteran of many tastings I've hosted over the years! I had been asked by my wife to put together a small selection of wines that could help to introduce BC wines to someone with next to no experience enjoying our homegrown viniculture (i.e., our American guests), with a focus on whites (it being “summer” after all). Armed with a few more hints about what our guests might enjoy I picked out some recent award-winners, old stand-bys, and new discoveries while emphasizing multiple regions and a few unique grapes that would show what BC has to offer.

Our first wine came to us from the Naramata Bench courtesy of Lake Breeze Vineyards: their 2010 Pinot Blanc continues a tradition of excellence with this grape, having recently been awarded Best of Category at the 2011 All Canadian Wine Championships. I knew I wanted to serve a Pinot Blanc given the low profile of this grape, despite the wonderful wines it can produce, particularly here in BC. Lake Breeze considers Pinot Blanc to be their “signature,” so the decision was easy. My choice rewarded us with beautiful aromas of apple, peaches, and pineapple, with floral flavours and a slightly creamy texture that I particularly enjoyed. This wine was the favourite white amongst two of the six of us, and came in a very close second for me personally.

Topping the Lake Breeze for me was the next wine, a superbly fashioned 2010 Viognier from Di Bello Wines. Long-time CedarCreek winemaker Tom Di Bello has now moved on to produce his own ultra-small-lot wines in partnership with his wife Tari, and this first release consisted of only 87 cases! Fortunately I found my bottle at Marquis Wine Cellars, where there is still some available (in addition to directly from Tom & Tari) if you want to get in on the ground floor of Tom’s new venture: four more varietals are coming soon including highly anticipated Pinot Noir and Syrah. As John Schreiner puts it, the Viognier is “an intense and exotic white” which conjured up myriad descriptors amongst us – particularly as the temperature changed – including cedar, menthol, bubble gum, and caramel! Tom’s notes include aromas of lychee, orange peel, and pears, all of which were present for us as well. The impeccable balance and thought-provoking flavours in this wine made it my favourite.

Next up was the sequel to one of our favourite wines last summer – CedarCreek Ehrenfelser. Ironically the 2010 release of this wine represents some of the first work by Tom Di Bello’s replacement at CedarCreek – Australian Darryl Brooker. With 2010 being a cooler season, it comes as no surprise that the new Ehrenfelser is more acidic than the delicate 2009 we fawned over last year, but it still garnered plenty of fans amongst our guests: fully half of those present declared it their favourite white of the evening. As in years past, the Ehrenfelser is still aptly described as “fruit salad in a glass” and we enjoyed aromas of honeysuckle and orange blossom, grapefruit, and melons. Flavours of honeydew and cantaloupe continued on the palate, ensuring an empty bottle in short order.

Seeking diversity in both grapes and flavour profiles – whilst maintaining the approachable summer theme – I decided a Gewurztraminer would be suitable as our final white wine. Knowing Thornhaven’s prowess with the grape led me to this Summerland winery, and their award-winning 2009 Gewurztraminer, another Best of Class winner from the recent All Canadian Wine Championships. Upon smelling the beautiful fruitful aromas wafting from this wine I’m fully in agreement with the reviewers at Icon Wines, and was also sure to prepare my guests for the decidedly off-dry flavours on the palate. Powerful lychee was most obvious, with some describing it as “candied lilacs,” while others detected smoky notes that reminded them of candles. Although this wine wasn’t anyone’s favourite, I fully respect it for what it is: a powerful expression of this very enjoyable grape variety.

I would be remiss to serve a selection of BC wines in the summer without including at least one Rosé, given the huge variety of styles we benefit from in BC. Although a great deal of excellent single varietal Rosés exist from wineries across the province, we’ve always enjoyed the blended approach from Dirty Laundry, and had yet to try their newest release. Inside the beautiful transparent bottle, Dirty Laundry’s 2010 “Hush” includes 50% Cabernet Franc and 30% Pinot Noir, along with a little Pinot Blanc and some other “hush hush” grapes. What struck many of us first and foremost is the incredible rich cherry colour of the wine, which reminds one once again of the huge range possible when it comes to Rosé wines. Although we enjoyed flavours of guava, strawberry, and pomegranate, the current incarnation was felt to be not as “patio-friendly” as in years past. It’s possible the lighter snacks we were enjoying did not maximize this wine’s potential, given that Dirty Laundry recommends pairing it with “bold Malaysian foods, Asian fusion cuisines, and East Indian dishes.” Those being some of my favourite foods I look forward to trying another bottle in a different context soon!

I felt I should include at least one full-bodied red wine to finish off the tasting. Taking my cues once again from the All Canadian Wine Championships I expected that the 2008 Cabernet-Merlot from Blasted Church would fit the bill quite nicely. This Bordeaux blend was awarded Best Red Wine during the Championships, and easily impresses whether or not one knows its $26 list price. Even more impressive is the knowledge that Blasted Church went so far as to include both Malbec and Petit Verdot (for the first time), which are varieties rarely seen in such a reasonably priced red blend. After decanting this relatively young wine we experienced quite a bit of rich vanilla and chocolate aromas that followed through on the palate. A surprisingly smooth mouthfeel was reversed upon pairing with actual chocolate, which really brought out the hidden tannins! Similarly, accompaniment with aged cheddar was said to have expressed green notes for some. The pairing experiences were quite intriguing and memorable, while overall this wine was impressive and enjoyable for most of us. Personally, I will be seeking some more of what remains from the 2000 cases which are now sold out from the winery.

The six uniquely enjoyable wines I shared represent only the tip of the iceberg in terms of the excellence in winemaking we benefit from here in BC. Putting together a “BC wine variety show” to introduce our wines to others was a lot of fun! I hope to do it again soon given the many hundreds of additional superb wines available to share with those unfamiliar with what is on offer in our own backyard. Cheers!

Cabernet Franc Comparison

I’ve had the desire for a tasting of local Cabernet Franc for quite some time, and finally got the chance this past weekend to host a few friends for some tasty summer food and excellent BC wines! My decision to focus on Cabernet Franc came about due to the growing popularity of single varietal wines from this sometimes-maligned grape, which can offer much more than a minor (albeit important) component of Bordeaux-style blends. In fact, many people remain unaware that Cabernet Franc is one of the parents of the more well-known Cabernet Sauvignon grape – which is used for many legendary varietal wines the world round. In British Columbia Cabernet Franc has much more potential than Cabernet Sauvignon, with the ability to bud and ripen up to two weeks earlier – critical in this cool-climate wine region. Cabernet Sauvignon grown in BC often has trouble fully ripening, and as a result green notes can easily find their way in, yet wineries no doubt feel pressured to produce varietal Cab Sauv to meet the desires of consumers who are familiar with successful (and readily ripe) wines from France, California, Australia, or Chile. Wine Access magazine did not mince words in last Fall’s Canadian Wine Awards when reporting that the judges “agreed Canada should not focus on Cabernet Sauvignon.” As a result, it may be Cabernet Franc’s time to start shining more brightly, and fortunately a bevy of successful Francs are present in BC, and more follow each year as producers learn the advantages of working with this grape.

For our tasting I sourced several wines from producers big and small, and friends brought a few more: amazingly not a single bottle overlapped amongst the six of us! As it turned out, we had a few more bottles than we could healthily consume in one evening, but I tried to ensure we opened a variety, while paying appropriate homage to those on which we missed out. In fact, one of my favourites – from Tinhorn Creek – never made it to the table during the tasting, but that’s not to say it doesn’t deserve recognition. Tinhorn Creek has produced a single varietal for over a decade, always coming in at a very reasonable price: for only $18, the 2008 version gets top marks in my book as a go-to red; I’m learning to always keep a few bottles around for both special, and not-so-special occasions. In this case we started out the evening with Sandra Oldfield’s “Half-Screwed Sangria”, which included a full bottle of Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc along with generous proportions of brandy and Triple Sec. Although it almost seemed a shame to “waste” the subtleties of this wine in sangria, I figured if it’s good enough for Tinhorn Creek’s Owner/CEO/President/Winemaker it’s good enough for me! The sangria was a huge success, but I definitely recommend adding some of the “optional” soda water to thin it out a little!

With our palates loosened up from brandy and our plates loaded high with burgers, corn on the cob, and hearty salads, we delved into our first Cabernet Franc from well-known producer Burrowing Owl. This 2007 version really nailed it with a Gold medal at the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards and a resounding 91-point review from Anthony Gismondi. Despite the release of the 2008 vintage the 2007 can still be found in many stores, which is fortunate because I thoroughly enjoyed it! The ripe, dark fruit aromas and well-integrated tannins put a smile on my face immediately, and made me glad I have a bottle in the cellar.

We followed quickly with another 2007 from equally proficient Cabernet Franc producer Poplar Grove. I was quite impressed with this wine at the Playhouse Wine Festival earlier this year, which was where I picked up my own bottle, but hadn’t heard much else about it until recently. At the same time we were drinking ours, a couple of well-known local critics were also delving into this delight: recent reviews from Daenna Van Mulligen and Anthony Gismondi both sing the praises of Poplar Grove’s achievement. For what it’s worth, this one eventually came out on top at the end of the evening, with a texture even smoother than the Burrowing Owl, and pleasingly delicate hints of floral herbs amongst the vanilla aromas.

The final bottle from the 2007 vintage came from Hester Creek, which scooped a Gold medal at the 2010 BC Wine Awards. Although this wine is fairly difficult to find now following the release of the 2008 version under slick new labels, I figured the extra year of aging could only serve to benefit our experience. The prominent vanilla aromas reminded some of us of chocolate chip cookies, but nice ripe fruit was also present on the nose. The acidity seemed fairly high, and meaty flavours were also present that conjured up bacon and sausage. The newer release has received positive press from both John Schreiner and Icon Wines, and should be ready to drink now despite a few bottles of the 2007 floating around in stores.

Our dinner nearly complete, we took a short break for a delicious dessert of homemade strawberry shortcake, and a thematically-appropriate Late Harvest Cabernet Franc from Gehringer. Along with Gehringer’s Late Harvest Riesling, it’s a well-priced treat that isn’t too sweet or syrupy, and suitable for plenty of occasions; plus it goes quite well with strawberries.

We moved on to the 2008 vintage with a wine from a less well-known producer in Lilloet: the Fort Berens Cabernet Franc was produced from south-Okanagan grapes while owners Rolf and Heleen await first harvest from their own vineyard this year. Like the Hester Creek, this bottle has also been supplanted by the following vintage (in this case 2009), but I was lucky enough to find a few in Village Wines Dunbar. Solid reviews for some of their initial production bode well for Fort Berens; this wine has done well via positive reviews from Icon Wines, Daenna Van Mulligen, and others. Our experience yielded fairly herbal, floral aromas – once someone suggested dill I had trouble thinking of anything else. It was definitely the most savoury wine of the night, and unfortunately we had finished most of our dinner by the time it was opened, as the high acidity and very dry approach would pair well with food. I look forward to seeing if Fort Berens continues with Cabernet Franc via their Lilloet vineyards; in the meantime try the 2009 vintage in stores now.

Filled up with food and wine, we decided on one more bottle from Naramata producer Hillside. Experience over several years has led Hillside to settle on Black Sage fruit for their 2008 version, which is where a lot of top-quality Cabernet Franc seems to come from. Once again I suspect this savoury wine would have benefited from the hearty burgers we enjoyed earlier in the evening, but there is only so much food and wine one can consume at once. Reviewers such as Daenna Van Mulligen point out the benefits of “tangy tomato-based sauces” in addition to the grilled meats that Anthony Gismondi suggests.

The five Cabernet Francs that we tried represent only a portion of those produced in BC, and pleasingly I could have easily held another tasting the following night with others from wineries such as Herder, Nichol, Pentage, Sandhill, Seven Stones, SpierHead, and Sumac Ridge. Herder’s ultra-small-lot (104 cases) release from 2008 is particularly exciting, and I’m pleased to have recently found a bottle for my collection in Sutton Place Wine Merchant; John Schreiner describes it as “a powerhouse…that makes a statement.” I encourage you to experience some of these interesting terroir-driven wines that showcase BC’s potential particularly well. As one final example of how Cabernet Franc has a bright future here witness Painted Rock’s 2008 Red Icon: without using any Cabernet Sauvignon at all this big red blend relies upon 25% Cabernet Franc to work with Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot for a wine Anthony Gismondi describes as intense, yet supple. Cheers!

*For those of you without access to something the size of a wine barrel in which to mix the original recipe, here is the single-pitcher version of the Half-Screwed Sangria:

1/2 cup brandy

1/2 cup triple sec

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/3 cup frozen lemonade concentrate

1/3 cup orange juice

1 bottle Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc

1/2 lemon, sliced into quarter-rounds

1/2 orange, sliced into quarter-rounds

1/2 lime, sliced into quarter-rounds

8 maraschino cherries

1/4 cup sugar or honey (optional)

carbonated water (optional)

CedarCreek Platinum Club

Last month I received my first shipment of wine from CedarCreek’s newly launched “Platinum Club”. With so many BC wineries devising wine clubs it was great to find out CedarCreek had done the same – with some great perks to boot. In general I find most winery clubs are of greatest benefit to those residing in smaller communities: the large number of public and private stores in Metro Vancouver tend to negate their greatest benefit – hard-to-find rarities. It can be challenging to justify paying for shipping multiple times per year for wines you can get just as easily in the VQA Store down the street, for example. CedarCreek has fortunately avoided that conundrum by offering complimentary shipping on their thrice-annual shipments, which immediately makes the Platinum Club economically viable for those in even large, well-served communities. The offer of a 15% discount on additional orders is just icing on the cake: 6-bottle mixed lots can be added to any club shipments to piggyback on the free shipping (plus 15% off in the wine shop in Kelowna).

The Platinum Club consists of three annual shipments, each with a different focus: aromatic whites in the Spring/Summer (June), mixed whites and reds in the Fall (September), and the reserve Platinum tier wines in February. I’m not sure what the first February shipment next year will yield, having heard that the 2008 vintage did not produce any Platinum-calibre red wines. (I’m not concerned however, some of the excellent 2007 Platinums, or even older library releases will undoubtedly be well received.) With twenty wines in CedarCreek’s portfolio (including Madeira and two entry-level Proprietor’s blends) club members are likely to receive a bottle of nearly every wine available for purchase each year.

My order included some excellent new wines for Summer – and as you can see I added on some additional bottles, including the well-priced and very food friendly Proprietor’s Red and Proprietor’s White. I’m particularly pleased to have acquired a bottle of the new Pinot Noir Rosé, which has been well-received in its inaugural vintage under the supervision of new winemaker Darryl Brooker, in addition to some respectable medals in competition already. It has great aromas and flavours of strawberries, and should be a welcome addition to the Summer wine list.

Also included in the Summer shipment were two bottles of the racy 2010 Riesling, winner of Best of Varietal at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. Having sampled it at the “Bloom” BC VQA Spring Release, and having opened two bottles of my own already I can vouch for Anthony Gismondi’s description of a “citrus theme.” High acidity ensures that there is a lot of lime present in this wine, but paired with the right food it makes a superb Summer sipper: I recently discovered it is excellent with peanut sauce for example. I’m hoping the 2010 Gewurztraminer is equally interesting, with one bottle of this brand new release having arrived as well. It’s not yet listed on the CedarCreek website, nor have any local critics reviewed it to my knowledge, but the wine profile that came with my shipment describes a nose of rose petals benefiting from an extra-long, gentle pressing. The acidity is slightly higher than 2009 – 7.55 g/L vs. 6.28 g/L, but nowhere close to the domain of the Riesling – 12.20 g/L. Less than half as much Gewurztraminer was made in 2010 compared to the 2,843 cases made in 2009, but there should still be enough to go around. I’m actively seeking out Gewurztraminer this year for a change of pace, so I’m looking forward to opening this one when the time is right (CedarCreek suggests a pairing with Green Thai Curry).

Another wine not yet appearing on the CedarCreek website is the 2010 Pinot Gris, although Daenna Van Mulligen recently reviewed it quite positively: I love her suggestion of an Alsatian Onion Tart and plan on enjoying such a pairing soon! Over 4,000 cases of Gris are being released – almost the same number as last year – so you can look forward to plenty of this versatile wine over the next 12 months. One big change from last year is the dramatic increase in residual sugar, going from 0.66 g/L in 2009 to 7.90 g/L listed this year, which probably really ups the sweet peach, pear, and melon flavours.

The final wine Platinum Club members received in their first shipment was the 2010 Ehrenfelser, CedarCreek’s famous “fruit salad in a glass.” The winery likes to point out that so few wineries produce varietal Ehrenfelser that they have earned a mention in the Wikipedia entry for this grape! Sadly barely 100 hectares of Ehrenfelser remain planted worldwide according to that same Wikipedia article, which is a tragedy given the beautiful expression coaxed out of it by CedarCreek. Anthony Gismondi feels that Darryl’s first shot at Ehrenfelser has been very successful, producing a classic patio wine with excellent balance. I’ve tried a couple bottles already and have been quite pleased as well. Although in my opinion the 2009 still holds the crown for pure enjoyment, this newer, more acidic approach retains the intoxicating tropical, floral aromas we fell in love with last year.

CedarCreek wines are widely available in BC Liquor Stores and VQA Wine Stores, but for an easy and economical introduction consider the Platinum Club if you prefer your wines to come to you – it just seems so much more civilized that way ;)

June Wine Club: Summer Wines

Our wine club dinner this month not only included a very special guest – our host’s Mom – but finally gave us the chance to explore some wines and cuisine to celebrate the warm weather of Summer! In perhaps our most geographically-diverse event to date we enjoyed three different Rosés, a couple of top-tier Sauvignon Blancs, a mind-boggling white blend (with 18 grape varieties) and even a charming and delicious Tawny Port to finish the evening. It seems that our original proposition for each of three couples to bring one bottle of wine is fast flying out the window as we get more enthusiastic – and knowledgeable – about the many great wines BC has to offer!

Our turn to manage the appetizer course had finally arrived, and we thought long and hard about how to best approach what can often be the most creative and entertaining part of the meal. Lately I’ve been reading from a truly incredible book my wife got me for Christmas called “Taste Buds and Molecules” and was pleased to see it had a chapter about Sauvignon Blanc. Having started our monthly club last Fall we haven’t yet had any Sauvignon Blanc, as we had trended towards red wines and hearty winter fare. Learning about Sauvignon Blanc’s compatibilities with various herbs, fruits, and vegetables inspired my wife and I to develop a homemade rice paper wrap served alongside a tropical fruit salad. Our wraps included shredded carrots and golden beets with fresh dill and parsley, plus cucumber, avocado, smoked tofu, and pea shoots, along with a fresh ginger-carrot dip on the side. The fruit salad included Granny Smith apples, honeydew melon, kiwi, mango, and papaya, plus some fresh mint. Many of these anise-flavoured ingredients contain similar aromatic molecules that pair quite naturally with Sauvignon Blanc – or so we hoped!

To drink we sourced two hard-to-come-by new Sauvignon Blancs from South Okanagan’s Le Vieux Pin and Naramata’s La Frenz for a little comparison. Both bottles come with impressive accolades behind them: John Schreiner feels the 92-point Le Vieux Pin is “one of the most expressive Sauvignon Blancs to come from the Okanagan” while La Frenz reports that theirs “has already been proclaimed by consumers as better than the 2008” (which won Best of Class at the All Canadian Wine Championships). We thoroughly enjoyed both wines, although the intense bouquet of grapefruit and lime exhibited by the Le Vieux Pin gained it the most followers. The La Frenz was a bit more mild overall – and the favourite of my wife – with a little more sweet tropical fruit. The wine and food pairing was also very successful, and the harmony of flavours was equally enjoyable.

Our entree course – prepared by the evening’s host couple – favoured other fresh, local ingredients, somewhat deconstructed to accommodate all tastes. A delicious pasta with cherry tomatoes and feta was accompanied by fresh spot prawns and mussels, or crispy stir-fried tofu for the vegetarians. Our host, a card-carrying carnivore, is always wildly successful in cooking tofu despite little experience in the past (I think the secret is lots of oil!), and we are always grateful for his sensitive inclusivity.

The entree wine, without any coordination between us, turned out to be Le Vieux Pin’s newly released Pinot Noir Rosé “Vaïla”! With even fewer cases produced than the Sauvignon Blanc don’t expect it to last long in stores, especially because of the great reviews it has received already – which Le Vieux Pin gladly provides on their website. I actually tried this wine (along with that Sauvignon Blanc) earlier this Spring, but found it to be better now than I remembered, with some of the earthy Pinot notes having faded a little, allowing for the fruit to emerge. Beyond the beautiful colour, we detected sweet aromas of strawberry – almost cotton-candy, but the palate was appropriately dry, with hints of grapefruit on the finish.

Two bottles of Vaïla went down easily, and while we waited for dessert to finish baking we sipped on a another Rosé from brand new Kaleden winery Krāze Lēgz, this one a red-white blend according to John Schreiner. The wine was quite approachable, with some fairly strong strawberry jam elements to complement the vibrant colour.

Dessert was served, and an unexpected third Rosé came out to accompany it! This time it was to be Fort Berens’ Petit Verdot-based wine, with a dry, almost savoury approach that had some of us throwing out phrases such as turkey sandwich, and cold cuts. The Lilloet winery’s use of Petit Verdot for Rosé is a bold and exciting move, showing the great versatility of this wine style, and it has yielded respectable reviews as well. Also making an appearance was a bottle of Glenterra Vivace, a white blend from Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley. Vivace contains an almost unbelievable 18 different grape varieties but starts with nearly half Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, finishing with grapes we had never even heard of such as Huxelrebe and Cantaro! It was very floral and mouth-filling, even a little bit tawny on the nose, and was a great pairing for the individual rhubarb cakes we were enjoying fresh from the oven. In the same ramekins the cakes had been baked was the most incredible cold strawberry soup that garnered heaps of praise. Just thinking about the fresh aromas and smooth flavours that caressed our palates is making my mouth water!

At the very end of the night, again unplanned and unexpected, our hosts introduced a bottle of La Frenz Tawny Port to round out the evening. This fairly unique offering is a delicious treat, with flavours of dried apricot, raisins, and walnuts, one that evokes an almost tingling sensation in the sinuses for which I coined a new term: “nose-feel.” Apparently I’m at my most creative eight bottles in!

Recent Tastings: Joie

The second of two recent tastings I attended was also the first formal event I’d attended at the new Legacy Liquor Store: a three-vintage vertical of Joie wines led by self-taught proprietors Michael Dinn and Heidi Noble, both former Vancouver sommeliers and wine industry veterans. Joie is still a fairly young winery, but has attained impressive cult status in the several years since opening: prominent awards have included dual Lt. Governor’s Awards in 2009 for the 2007 Reserve Chardonnay and 2008 Riesling. Grape varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat, and Pinot Noir represent Joie’s commitment to successful cool climate wines originating from regions such as Alsace, Burgundy, and Champagne.

Michael and Heidi led guests – including my wife and me – through four flights of Joie wines, starting with the superb Noble Blend, their tribute to Edelzwicker, “the traditional Germanic-variety blend of the Alsace region of France.” Conveniently Edelzwicker translates to “noble blend” and thus overlaps with Heidi’s surname. We enjoyed the opportunity to taste the 2008 through 2010 releases, which have contained at times up to six different grape varieties from up to twelve different vineyards! (In addition to Joie’s estate vineyard in Naramata they also purchase grapes from growers throughout the Okanagan valley.) Typically Noble Blend contains Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Auxerrois in differing percentages, but the 2008 also included Kerner and Oraniensteiner. We found that the well-preserved 2008 was dominated by tangerine on the palate, while the younger 2009 (with 60% Gewurztraminer) showed much more grapefruit. The newest release dials down the Gewurztraminer and substantially ups the Riesling component (from 8% to 38%) for 2010, and really impressed us with a delicate floral nose and well-controlled acidity (a challenge from such a cool vintage). Well-priced magnums in dauntingly large Alsatian flutes are available in select stores for Summer party centerpieces!

The single-varietal (but multiple vineyard) Rieslings were next, again from 2008 through 2010 vintages. Joie has purchased Riesling grapes from a few select vineyards for this wine, with large components in each year from 8th Generation Vineyards in Okanagan Falls, themselves known for their own excellent  Riesling varietals. The wines we tried were clearly demonstrating Riesling’s potential for aging, as significant differences were apparent between the vintages: 2008 was showing powerful diesel aromas that Rieslings can be known for, while the youthful 2010 had a much more delicate and nuanced nose. None of these are dry Rieslings either, with high residual sugar ranging from 20 to 25 grams per liter; fortunately balanced by crisp acidity. Even so, all that sugar and acid began to take a toll on our stomachs, requiring dutiful ingestions of water and pleasantly mild “undressed” Gone Crackers.

Moving on to Joie’s well-regarded Chardonnay, we were fortunate enough to get a chance to sample the soon-to-be-released 2009 Reserve Chardonnay in addition to the 2008 and 2007 vintages. Although Joie does produce a very nice unoaked Chardonnay, we skipped to the fully oaked version for this tasting. As with the Riesling, Joie has purchased grapes from other vineyards – often including 8th Generation – for their Chardonnay, after which it is fermented (some naturally) and aged in premium French oak of various ages. Secondary malolactic fermentation and lees stirring are done to enhance the texture and complexity, yielding many classic popcorn, butterscotch, nutty aspects that some people love (myself included, in the proper context). In this case the 2007 was particularly classic in aroma and flavour, reminding us of butter and hazelnuts; the long and memorable finish is why this particular wine is still on my all-time favourite Chardonnay list. The 2008 had a bit more popcorn on the nose, and seemed somewhat juicier on the palate, with flavours of cloves and nutmeg present that reminded me immediately of fresh apple pie. Lastly, the new 2009 Chardonnay had the most floral nose, likely due to the use of much less new oak; it still likely has many years of development ahead of it.

The final flight of wines presented to us consisted of Joie’s only red wine, a unique blend of approximately two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Gamay Noir called “PTG”. Again taking cues from Burgundy, Michael and Heidi have embraced the regional blend of Passetoutgrain due to Pinot and Gamay’s success in the Okanagan. We were able to sample the 2007 through 2009 vintages, and learn about Joie’s experimentation with whole cluster fermentation and foot-treading. In select vintages the grapes with the longest hang-time experience lignified stems (changing from green to brown) and thus contribute fine tannins and complexity to the wine: the 2009 vintage lacked this event due to the early frost but for 2010 whole cluster fermentation was once again instigated at Joie. The three vintages we tried differed substantially in colour, aroma, and flavour: the 2007 had the most expressive nose that my wife described as “toasty blood”, while the 2008 was darkest in colour and much fruitier on the nose with aromas of menthol cherry. The 2009 PTG was the lightest in colour (no surprise given the lack of whole cluster fermentation) with fresh aromas that reminded us of rhubarb and violets. The wide variation in the PTG across the years is a positive thing in my opinion, as it demonstrates the effect of vintage and terroir given that the environmental conditions and source vineyards can differ from year to year – it makes the wine that much more interesting!

In addition to the wines we tried Joie also produces the aforementioned Unoaked Chardonnay, a very popular Rosé, and a relatively rare varietal Muscat that is often snatched up by restaurants. Details are all available in depth on Joie’s beautiful new website, and a slew of recent positive reviews are courtesy of Icon Wines. The Rosé is available in magnum size for Summer fun if your magnum of Noble Blend is lonely!

Recent Tastings: Spierhead

I’ve attended a couple of comprehensive tastings recently that bear more than a mention, from two excellent wineries at different stages in their young lives. The first is new Kelowna winery Spierhead, which hosted a very classy tasting at the Four Seasons in their gorgeous Yew Restaurant. John Schreiner detailed the evolution of Spierhead late last year, with particular compliments for their first Meritage red – “Vanguard” – and their Cabernet Sauvignon. I acquired a bottle of the 2008 Vanguard along with a CedarCreek Platinum Meritage (2007) a while ago, two wines with a very significant connection in Tom DiBello: Tom was the winemaker at CedarCreek for a decade before leaving recently to spread his wings as a consulting winemaker, which he has done marvellously at Spierhead.

Spierhead’s first release consisted of 2009 Chardonnay and 2008 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Vanguard, but they have recently expanded to include Riesling and Cabernet Franc. For this year’s release Tom helped produce two excellent whites – Riesling and Chardonnay, and four quality reds that are just beginning to show their potential: varietal Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus the second vintage of Vanguard. So far most of the fruit has come from other vineyards – as Spierhead’s own vines were just planted in 2008 – and are limited to Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Acquiring the bigger reds from vineyards in the Southern Okanagan is a smart move, given the many quality growers in those warmer, sunnier southern pastures. Even so, Tom cited Spierhead’s “impeccable” young vineyard as one of the reasons he was convinced to come on-board – operators Brian Sprout and Bill Knutson are clearly taking their business seriously.

The vineyard practices and winemaking talent are particularly evident in the two new whites I tasted, which include the first fruit from Spierhead’s 20-acre estate vineyard. The 2010 Riesling has tangy lime flavours common to the cool vintage it represents. The fruit was harvested quite late in mid-November to keep the acidity under control, which was a big challenge in last year’s harvest. The 2010 Chardonnay includes a bit of Oliver fruit to add tropical notes, and acquires beneficial minerality from Spierhead’s own fruit. A very small percentage saw oak, while the vast majority was tank fermented, yielding a very fresh, fruity wine that will be a great Summer sipper along with the equally refreshing Riesling.

The four 2009 reds are naturally quite young, but are already showing impressive balance and ripeness. Although Tom warned guests of some bottle-shock I was pleased to savour each one and look forward to their upcoming release. The Merlot was fairly light in colour with low tannins, but showed fresh red fruit, and got distinctively richer over time. The Cabernet Franc was also light in colour, with more acidity and rustic berry notes. The Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited a rich dark purple tone, and possessed tasty aromas and flavours that reminded me of raisins. The 2009 Vanguard – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc – has more tannins and acidity than the 2008 version, but both show delicious dark fruit. The blend ratios changed in 2009 to include more Merlot and a bit less of each Cab: Tom believes that Merlot-based Meritage can yield a “bigger” wine in the Pacific Northwest than those that lean on Cabernet Sauvignon. What surprised me most over the course of the tasting was how much each wine evolved as the bottles got the chance to breathe; there’s clearly a lot of evolution to come for these wines, and hopefully even more so from this promising young winery!