BCWAS Bus Tour 2013: Summerland

Our Saturday night dinner at Local Lounge with Tom & Tari Di Bello and Robert Van Westen concluded with BC Wine Appreciation Society members locking in their wine orders and bidding adieu to our talented guests. Many guests turned in for the evening after dinner, grateful for Sunday’s later 9am muster call. Our first appointment that day was just minutes away at Sumac Ridge Winery. Winery Experience Manager Kristina was on hand to welcome us to one of BC’s oldest estate wineries, where we enjoyed our morning bubbly outside under the clearing skies.

For those who hadn’t already enjoyed sparkling wine with breakfast there was the quintessential 2008 Steller’s Jay, the non-vintage “Tribute” Blanc de Blancs, and the 2005 “Pinnacle” Reserve Sparkling, the most complex and elegant of the three. While we moved on to the Black Sage Vineyard 2010 Merlot, Kristina suggested we keep our eyes peeled for an upcoming sparkling Shiraz, and even a varietal Zinfandel. With the Sumac Ridge tasting room just around the corner many members took the opportunity to stock up on sparkling, and we even captured a group photo back outside, with newly refreshed glasses of Pinnacle in hand.

Magnums of Steller’s Jay and other treats safely ensconced in the bus we headed back through Summerland to 8th Generation Vineyards, on the south side of town. Winery Proprietors Bernd & Stefanie Schales were awaiting us in their beautifully decorated picnic area, with a slew of wines and mouth-watering baked goods from True Grain Bread. Each wine was paired with one of the many breads, pastries, and cookies from this highly successful, local organic bakery.

We enjoyed wines such as the 2012 Classic Riesling with ancient grain Emmer bread, the 2012 Integrity Frizzante with a classic French croissant, and 2011 Pinot Noir with gingerbread cookies. The chance to try the powerful 2011 Riesling “Selection” saw almost the entire remaining stock at the winery sold out during our visit! The enthusiastic crowd also descended upon the remaining Cheddar Twists, French Baguettes, Sourdough, and Chocolate Croissants brought along from True Grain, with a great many compliments to the baking team.

Having just filled up on breads we headed off to our lunch visit post-haste, where nearby Okanagan Crush Pad was hosting BCWAS favourite Joy Road Catering, and a festival style wine and food visit. OCP’s house brands Haywire and Bartier-Scholefield were being poured in earnest along with many gems from clients Perseus, Sage Hills, Bartier Brothers, and Harper’s Trail. After an introduction by Owner Christine Coletta, Chief Winemaker Michael Bartier brought us into the Switchback vineyard to describe his grape-growing and winemaking philosophies, while Joy Road’s servers circulated with trays of canapés.

Upon returning to the winery we found ourselves practically swimming in exquisite food and wine choices, including Heirloom Tomato Galette, Merguez Sausage & Homemade Pita, Grilled Striploin & Caponata, Wild Salmon Sliders, and Melon Carpaccio with Prosciutto. With dozens of wines on hand there was an ideal pairing for everything, which many members gladly explored!

To conclude our winery tours we spent the remainder of the afternoon after departing OCP enjoying the lively atmosphere and great company at Sonoran Winery. Proprietors Adrian and Sarah Smits provided for a seated tasting of their extensive portfolio, which focuses strongly on aromatic whites, including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Oraniensteiner, and Ehrenfelser. That being said, sampling 2007 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec was also quite a treat, while several platters of baked brie with Cabernet-caramelized onions were passed around. The fun was amplified by the live music and bouts of karaoke that emerged, led with gusto by Sarah and our very own bus driver, plus courageous BCWAS members!

Our unexpected party at Sonoran led to a delay in returning to the Resort for dinner, but Local Lounge graciously accommodated our revised schedule. We certainly didn’t want anything getting in the way of our dinner with Harry McWatters! Harry had brought wines from his McWatters Collection and TIME Estate Winery portfolios, to pair with a four-course family style dinner led masterfully yet again by Chef Lee.

With the new TIME 2011 Chardonnay guests enjoyed Fraser Valley Rabbit Terrine while Harry discussed the great advances in BC wine culture over the years. Seared Scallops followed, with TIME’s smooth, tropical 2012 White Meritage. The entrée course included heaping trays of Roasted Ling Cod, as well as Grilled Beef Tenderloin, served with McWatters Collection 2011 Chardonnay and TIME 2011 Red Meritage.

An inventive and delicious dessert course included the McWatters Collection 2009 Red Meritage both in our glasses and in the chocolate cake served with poached blackberries and caramel espresso ice cream. Over and above the fantastic food and wine, listening to Harry’s decades of insights on the BC wine trade was a treat; his passion and integrity have helped build an entire industry, and he has no plans of slowing down!

Concluding our bus tour at the same superb venue in which it began seemed particularly apt; enjoying local food and wine is what the tour is all about. Celebrating BC’s best with a great group of passionate people left me energized and excited to do it all again next year!

BCWAS Bus Tour 2013: Naramata Bench

After a comprehensive tour through the Oliver-Osoyoos region last year, the BC Wine Appreciation Society bus tour swung north in 2013 to visit Summerland and the Naramata Bench. The Executive team had arranged luxurious accommodations at Summerland Waterfront Resort, where most of us met up Friday before the tour started in earnest the next morning. The well-appointed resort directly on the water is also the site of Local Lounge & Grill, where we were set to dine throughout the weekend. The highly-respected restaurant is operated by Christa-Lee McWatters and her husband Cameron Bond, in partnership with Christa-Lee’s father, Harry McWatters. The convenience of dining directly at the resort allowed guests more flexibility, and saved money on transportation as well!

For BCWAS members arriving Friday evening, Local was set up to welcome us with a festival style wine tasting, alongside a tapas dinner from talented new Executive Chef Lee Humphries. Several members wineries from the “Bottleneck Drive” association in Summerland were present pouring for the excited guests, with everything from crisp sparkling wines to rich fortifieds and icewines. Naturally, everything was available to order as well, with the wineries generously offering to deliver orders to the hotel’s front desk the next day. Given the many excellent wines being poured I certainly hope they received plenty of new customers.

As good as the great many wines were, the seemingly endless array of food easily grabbed our attention as well: platters of cheese and charcuterie were accompanied by a bevy of bite sized hors d’oeuvres on skewers, planted in a bed of living greenery. The quail eggs, prawns, seared tuna, and tomato & bocconcini morsels kept guests salivating while Chef Lee cooked up mini meatballs and squash tortellini at a hot food station. A table of desserts didn’t go missed either, with pies, brownies, éclairs, and chocolate mousses offering a feast for the senses late into the evening.

Despite a hearty party to get us started, everyone dutifully reported outside the resort on Saturday morning at 8:15 for our departure to visit the Naramata Bench wineries, helped along by plenty of coffee, and/or sparkling wine in a number of cases! A short ways down the road in Penticton Upper Bench Winery & Creamery was ready to receive more than three dozen bright-eyed wine (and cheese) fans. Proprietors Gavin Miller (the winemaker) and Shana Miller (the cheesemaker) welcomed us to their newly renovated patio, where we all enjoyed a seated wine and cheese tasting.

Elegant Chardonnay and crisp Riesling were paired with Shana’s “Gold” and “French Gold” cheeses to start, while industry veteran Gavin discussed his all-natural viticultural approach. A hearty new 2011 Pinot Noir was accompanied by the garlicky “Italian Gold” cheese, and the fruit forward Merlot and old world inspired Cabernet Sauvignon brought out the “Moody Cow” and “King Cole” blue cheeses. The impressive selection of wines and cheeses set Society members upon the tasting room in droves, stocking up on their favourites in both domains. It didn’t take long for the previously-burgeoning cheese fridge in the shop to look quite forlorn and lonely once we practically emptied it in our enthusiasm for Shana’s wares!

With the Naramata Bench wineries so close together it wasn’t long before we reached our next destination, mere minutes away at Poplar Grove’s production facility, down the road from their iconic Tasting Room. There, Founder Ian Sutherland was on hand to greet us and provide a guided tour of the new winery, about to enter its second year of production. The extremely spacious building is home to dozens of massive steel tanks and a huge barrel room that should serve Poplar Grove and second-label Monster Vineyards well for many years.

After a quick hop up the road to the beautiful tasting room and event facility Ian was happy to share and discuss several wine samples, including a smooth and balanced Chardonnay, plus a rare and luscious Viognier found only at the winery. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2009 CSM red blend soon brought on plenty of grins with their ripe dark fruit, and the nicely maturing 2006 Legacy provided for a delectable treat.

With Poplar Grove having been joined by the Vanilla Pod Restaurant from Summerland just last year, we were able to smoothly transition directly into lunch, served outside amongst the stunning views overlooking Penticton and the lake. Executive Chef Bruno Terroso had prepared a spectacular three-course meal, beginning with an extremely flavourful heirloom tomato salad with fresh Burrata.

Summerland potatoes and squash were next, served with either Hanger Steak or Wild Soho Salmon, similarly mouth-wateringly fresh and honestly prepared. Finally, the flourless chocolate torte for dessert was so rich and delicious that members were pooling their leftovers in take-away containers, so as not to leave even a single bite behind!

With memories of such a fantastic lunch still in our minds (and bellies) it was almost hard to concentrate during our afternoon visit to Township 7. Winemaker Bradley Cooper met us outside the winery where a series of tables had been set up for a custom blending session. After pouring the 2010 Reserve 7 Meritage, Brad challenged us to form small groups and create our own unique blend out of six single vineyard samples from the 2012 vintage.

With a full suite of flasks and beakers on hand, we masterfully crafted three Merlots, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Malbec/Petit Verdot field blend into several brand new wines, under the watchful eye, nose, and palate of Brad. Many gleeful amateur winemakers soon received Brad’s approving acknowledgement of their blends, which he recorded for future research and consideration during his own blending sessions for the 2012 Reserve 7.

Our final winery visit of the day took us up the road to Red Rooster, where the winery was hosting a fundraising picnic afternoon for the Penticton Fire Department. Outdoor games, a petting zoo, and actual firefighters demonstrating their life-saving equipment were all on display. With the winery grounds crowded with families and wine fans, we journeyed upstairs to a private room for a guided wine tasting with hospitality associate Dale.

Several wines from Red Rooster’s portfolio gave us a crash course in the techniques and skill of Winemaker Karen Gillis. We were lucky to sample from small lot, Reserve wines such as the Lieutenant Governor’s Award-winning 2012 Viognier, the rare 2011 Pinot Noir, and the newly released 2011 Malbec. The winery’s generosity continued as Dale provided samples of the light, refreshing 2012 Riesling Icewine, and the restrained, age-worthy 2010 “Golden Egg”, Karen’s venue for experimenting with Mourvedre and Grenache.

Back at the Resort, we enjoyed some time off to collect ourselves and squirrel away our purchases of wine and cheese from the day. The evening’s dinner at Local saw us honoured with the company of two well-known local winemakers: Tom Di Bello and his wife Tari joined Robert Van Westen in introducing several wines from their individual and joint ventures. Tom’s small “Di Bello Wines” project has yielded exceptional Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, and Syrah thus far, but is temporarily on hold as he ramps up work as the new head winemaker at Burrowing Owl. The busy harvest season didn’t stop Tom and Tari from bringing their 2010 & 2011 Chardonnay and Merlot wines, plus the 2010 Syrah, all ready to be paired with Chef Lee’s delicious food.

The first course of Poached Pear Salad with Goat’s Cheese paired nicely with both Chardonnays, each of which possess bright, food-friendly acidity. The second course of Bison Tartar was enjoyed with the 2011 “VD” Pinot Noir, a very successful collaboration between Tom and Rob, and of which fewer than 100 cases were produced. Rob revealed his initial anxiety at producing a Pinot Noir, given the passion with which fans of the variety can both celebrate excellence and condemn perceived failure. Fortunately Tom convinced him to take the chance, and they have continued to collaborate on subsequent vintages. A third course of Duck Confit Ravioli served to celebrate both vintages of Di Bello Merlot, and juicy Syrah synched up with Roasted Black Pepper Venison next.

A highlight of the entire meal for many was the dessert course of Qualicum Brie Pannacotta with the exquisite 2012 Van Westen “Vicicle” Viognier icewine. The honeyed peach and apricot flavours of the wine meshed superbly with the added rosewater honey gel and candied ginger sable crumble atop the Pannacotta. It was altogether the perfect conclusion to a fantastic day!

July Wine Club: Bubbles & Bread & Butter

On one of the many beautiful July evenings in Vancouver we joined a few friends for our monthly BC wine dinner. After many weeks of waiting we’d finally finished rotating through the three courses we share and my wife and I were back on appetizer duty – full of excitement to share our long-awaited idea! With everyone’s courses and wine pairings chilling or heating up as necessary we enjoyed some time on our hosts’ balcony with visually stunning summer cocktails of Campari and Limoncello. All the refreshing sunshine of late had put everyone in a festive and relaxed mood, which a few bottles of wine and plenty of inventive food were soon to amplify.

It was quite nice to sit down and relax in fact, because we had spent the better part of the day baking from scratch three loaves of bread, and churning a bevy of homemade butter. After discovering the ease with which one can produce fresh butter at home we had been inspired several weeks ago do the same, but resolved to wait for just the right time to share the riches. I’m not sure why it never occurred to us beforehand: just churn whipping cream in the food processor (with whisk attachment) until it almost magically becomes butter several minutes later. Even better, you’re left with a substantial portion of fresh buttermilk to boot! We’d done precisely that in three batches, variably adding additional ingredients to easily yield compound butter.

Our smoked salt butter, herb butter, and sundried tomato & basil butter were destined for the fresh bread we’d laboured over for hours. Even using our bread machine for most of the kneading and rising cycles, it was still a day-long affair to allow for the full rising and independent oven baking of all three loaves. At the end though, we had a solid whole wheat loaf, a light three-cheese bread with Asiago, cheddar, and ricotta, and a rich chewy country French loaf with Kalamata olives and (home-grown) rosemary.

Deciding on a wine pairing for such a simple yet simultaneously opulent dish led rather quickly to traditional method sparkling: creamy textures and yeasty notes would mesh nicely, whilst cleansing bubbles and acid would keep the rich butter in check. A couple of bottles from the cellar were natural selections, and having two different wines would provide for an interesting comparison as well. We began with Salt Spring Vineyards’ “Karma” Sparkling, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir produced from the superb 2009 vintage, and winner of a gold medal at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships. The winery also reports having placed as a finalist at the recent Lt. Governor’s Awards as well. The Karma’s light melon and caramel aromas opened into a soft mousse texture with bright citrus flavours and a dry, green apple finish. Overall very cleansing and tart, definitely one to awaken the palate!

Knowing we weren’t the type of people to stop at just one bottle, I had brought along a recently acquired sparkling from Okanagan Crush Pad’s Haywire Winery: “The Bub” is a bottle-fermented blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes just like the Karma, this one from the more recent 2011 vintage. We found The Bub to exhibit a very fresh and clean nose, slightly finer bubbles than the Karma, and a medium-bodied, smooth texture with reminders of crème brûlée. Being big fans and consumers of Road 13’s Sparkling Chenin, some of us couldn’t help but draw parallels to that superb wine. Overall The Bub was deemed to be a favourite amongst the two sparkling wines on hand, but there was little stopping the enthusiastic consumption of both bottles!

Although very tempted to fill up on bread, we managed to leave room for the entree course, prepared in both vegetarian and omnivorous fashion to appeal to everyone. Diners had their choice of savoury marinated and grilled tofu, or flank steak from local butcher shop Pete’s Meat. Alongside our proteins was the “Bowl of Green Goodness”, a cashew and avocado dressed melange of red quinoa, fresh zucchini, peas, and a triplet of beans – green, purple, and yellow. The creamy avocado basil dressing made for a richly-flavoured mouthful, with roasted cherry tomatoes and raw cashews accessorizing the dish.

The ideal wine to enjoy with such a combination turned out to be a lightly chilled 2010 Gamay Noir from West Kelowna’s Mt. Boucherie. Opening with a nose of strawberry jam the Gamay expanded into additional aromas of raspberry and currant, with a noticeable earthiness present as well. Lots of strawberry flavours followed through on the palate, which revealed hints of cranberry and even a little bloodiness. The complex profile held up well to the varied flavours and textures on our plates, and the chill kept things light and summery without seeming to restrain the wine from expressing itself.

A few second helpings, and a second bottle of Gamay later and we were ready to enjoy dessert, a very promising-looking fruit pie. A happy medley of apricot, blackberry, blueberry, plum, and peach came neatly packaged in a shortbread crust served alongside organic vanilla ice cream. A couple of recently-acquired late harvest wines gave us plenty of thought-provoking flavour combinations. Gehringer Brothers’ 2012 Riesling showed off a very pretty nose reminiscent of much more expensive icewine, with fresh and clean aromas of orange blossom. The honeyed palate was definitely sweet but quite well balanced, with flavours of elderflower and lychee leading into a lemon finish. Neighbouring winery Hester Creek’s well-known Late Harvest Pinot Blanc was sweeter and more viscous, with an even more focused citrus profile: additional orange blossoms and a mandarin orange palate kept the fruit flavours swirling readily.

Cool ice cream and chilled dessert wines made for a superb conclusion on a warm evening. We tried not to think about how much butter we had just enthusiastically consumed, and instead focused on the many tasty wines and creative food pairings, all shared with great friends; cheers!

June Acquisitions: WBC13 Bounty

While last month’s Wine Blogger’s Conference in Penticton was an incredible opportunity and a very fun experience, it also yielded a huge cellar dividend as well. Spending a weekend in wine country allowed for a large number of winery visits and the chance to stock up on a great many rare wines not readily available in Vancouver stores. From the drive up to Kelowna on the way there to the drive home from Osoyoos via the Similkameen Valley, we made quite a few stops, and ultimately amassed eight cases of wine by the time we got home! Needless to say I’ll be slowing down my cellar acquisitions until the fall, having checked off virtually everything on my to-buy list in one fell swoop. Most of the wine is now safely ensconced in crates, fridges, and shelves, and I can actually take stock of what I managed to pick up over that whirlwind weekend.

On the way to Penticton my wife and I stopped for lunch at Mission Hill, with the secondary goal of picking up some of the winery’s small lot “Martin’s Lane” wines. These wines – initially Pinot Noir and Riesling, now joined by Viognier – were created as an homage to Proprietor Anthony von Mandl’s late father. I made sure to pick up the 2012 Riesling, described as “intense and refined” in Anthony Gismondi’s 90-point review, and the brand new 2011 Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir, of which only 485 cases were produced, was recently awarded one of the three Canadian Regional Trophies at the Decanter World Wine Awards, a huge coup for Mission Hill, especially for a wine in only its second vintage!

Down the road in Summerland we visited Silkscarf for the first time and came away supremely impressed, along with several bottles of wine as well. I felt it pertinent to pick up the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (400 cases produced) to sample, it having been named Best of Varietal at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. Most of the remaining portfolio joined us as well, as we took home the 2012 Viognier and 2012 “Saignee” Shiraz-Merlot Rosé, plus the 2008 Ensemble red blend, 2009 Malbec Cabernet, and 2009 Shiraz Viognier, all wonderfully fruit forward and elegant. For good measure I snagged a bottle of versatile 2010 Cherry Wine as well.

A few minutes away, and at our last stop before Penticton, 8th Generation had plenty of delicious Frizzante and Pinot Meunier Rosé: it was an easy decision to take home 6 bottles each of “Confidence” and “Integrity” Frizzante, plus the consistently excellent Rosé. I also made sure to get a bottle of 2010 Pinot Noir, which was named Best of Category at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships. I have very little experience with 8th Generation’s red wines (they produce Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals as well), so the Pinot Noir seemed like a great place to start. Lastly, I took the opportunity to purchase the unique 2011 “Riesling Selection”, a new style of Riesling for the winery, one that included indigenous yeast fermentation and low residual sugar to yield zesty intensity.

During the course of the Conference I popped in and out of the local Penticton and Naramata wineries to obtain some key selections. At Poplar Grove I was very pleased to find the new 2009 CSM (Cabernet Syrah Merlot), and what I believe is the winery’s first varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, from the superb 2009 vintage. Up the road at La Frenz I really dove in, as the winery releases their entire annual allocation in June: 2012 Viognier and 2011 Reserve Chardonnay joined 2011 reds including Reserve Pinot Noir, Shiraz, and Malbec. The Reserve Pinot Noir topped the Best of Varietal Awards at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, and the winery’s other great value reds never disappoint. I was also sure to get a few bottles of non-vintage Tawny and Liqueur Muscat, plus the 2012 Vintage Port to put away for future enjoyment.

Further up the Naramata Bench I visited a few more wineries over the weekend, including stopping at Laughing Stock to pick up my Preferred Share Wine Club allotment of 2011 Blind Trust Red and 2011 Syrah. Having noted that (traditionally) fruit winery Elephant Island’s dominance in the Viognier category at the Spring Wine Festival I picked up a bottle of 2012 “I Told You So…” from the winery’s “Unconventional Wisdom” line of vinifera wines. A bottle of scrumptious Stellaport (solera-style fortified cherry wine) and 2012 Framboise fortified raspberry dessert wine were also enthusiastic choices, but so too would be many of the remaining table and dessert fruit wines if I had the space!

At Van Westen Vineyards I picked up a bottle of nicely maturing 2007 Voluptuous, only just beginning to peak. Winemaker Rob Van Westen trained under Fairview Cellars’ Bill Eggert, and his reds are proving to be just as long-lived as Bill’s epic wines. Finally, a visit to Kettle Valley provided the chance for a bottle of highly-acclaimed 2009 Barber Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, of which only 72 cases were produced, and now fully sold out! I also gladly tacked on a little bottle of “Caboose”, the winery’s highly enjoyable fortified Malbec-Petit Verdot.

After the Conference concluded we headed south for a little casual wine touring and an extra night’s rest at Hester Creek’s Villas. A few stops on the way to and through the Oliver area provided for some very valuable additional acquisitions. Ironically I didn’t need to make any purchases at the wine shops of Covert Farms, Jackson-Triggs, or Le Vieux Pin, despite passing all three on the way. That’s not to say I wouldn’t have enjoyed more wines from all three, but I had what I needed the most courtesy of the Penticton Wine Information Centre VQA Store: Covert Farms “Odie” Sparkling Pinot Blanc, Jackson-Triggs 2010 Sunrock Shiraz and 2010 Grand Reserve Cabernet-Shiraz-Viognier, and Le Vieux Pin’s superb 2010 Syrah.

As big and as well stocked as the Wine Information Centre is, there were still plenty more bottles out there in the wild, including award-winning reds at Quinta Ferreira. The Oliver winery’s 2009 Cabernet Franc and 2009 Malbec received top ranking in their respective categories at the Spring Wine Festival, and fortunately some remained at the winery when I stopped in; however the 75 cases of Malbec are now all gone and I’m sure the 175 cases of Cabernet Franc will follow quite rapidly. I also took home a bottle of 2008 “Obra-Prima” red blend, named Best of Class at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships, and described by Anthony Gismondi last year as inviting, supple, and impressive.

With a luxurious villa suite and dinner reservations at Terrafina Restaurant awaiting us we moved through the Black Sage Bench efficiently. First stop was at Church & State’s Coyote Bowl property to further my vertical collection of their icon “Quintessential” red blend, with the 2009 bringing me up to five vintages since the 2005 debut. A bottle of impressive 2010 Coyote Bowl Merlot came along as well, to join the 2010 Coyote Bowl Syrah I already had at home. Burrowing Owl provided for additional vertical additions, with purchases of 2010 Meritage and 2010 Syrah, plus the brand new 2011 Sauvignon Blanc out of curiosity – a new wine from Burrowing Owl doesn’t come often. Finally, a more leisurely sit down tasting at Black Hills finished off the afternoon, where I was extremely grateful to obtain a hard-to-come-by bottle of 2011 Carménère, strongly recommended to me at the Conference by local blogger Kristof Gillese.

After a relaxing evening and a luxurious in-suite breakfast at Hester Creek it was finally time to head back home, and tick off the final wines from my to-buy list. A couple bottles of Hester Creek’s exciting new Cabernet Franc Rosé were sure to come with us upon departure, and a quick stop at Cassini was made to obtain 2010 Maximus red blend and 2010 Syrah. After visiting Road 13 we emerged several bottles later with newly released 2012 Old Vines Chenin Blanc and 2012 Jackpot Viognier Roussanne Marsanne – a very worthy sequel to last year’s Lt. Governor’s Award-winner. I was also sure to add the new 2010 vintage of “Fifth Element” red blend to my vertical collection, and picked up the small lots 2011 Merlot (175 cases) and 2011 Syrah (630 cases). Further down the road towards Osoyoos we swung by LaStella for a couple bottles of the delightful 2012 Moscato d’Osoyoos, plus the tasty Super Tuscan blend of 2010 Fortissimo, as well as the very rare 2010 Allegretto Merlot (only 110 cases produced).

Only one more stop in the Okanagan remained before we crossed into the Similkameen Valley and our final leg of wine touring. At Moon Curser I stocked up on the newly released 2011 reds, including their reliable Syrah, deep dark varietal Petit Verdot, and exciting Tempranillo. New this year from this Osoyoos winery is a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, plus an extremely small lot and never-seen-before varietal Touriga Nacional (only 60 cases!). The Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot both took home silver medals at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships, and the Touriga was awarded Best of Category (Other Single Red Vitus Vinifera)!

With just a little bit of space left we made sure to visit some of our favourite Similkameen wineries as well. After a picnic lunch along the Similkameen River at Forbidden Fruit, we left with a bottle of “Flirt”, an exciting sparkling peach wine produced in the traditional “méthode champenoise”. I was also sure to stop up the road and pick up the newly released Seven Stones 2011 Syrah (only 104 cases produced), and then a bottle of Orofino’s 2012 Moscato Frizzante for good measure (even though I was expecting more in my upcoming Collector’s Club case). Our final visit before hitting the road in earnest was to Herder Winery, on the outskirts of Keremeos, a beautiful location with some great memories of past visits. Unfortunately the Herders have had to put the property up for sale, so we knew it could be our last opportunity to say hello and obtain some of their fantastic wines. I was extremely lucky, and grateful, to get a bottle of the not-yet-released 2009 Josephine red blend, as well as the 2011 Blind Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, of which only 20 meagre cases were produced (basically one barrel!).

Unloading and storing all that wine after arriving home was hard work, but it will provide for many memories and bottles shared with friends in the future. Most of the reds will be cellared until 2015 and beyond, so I look forward to recollecting our exciting trip years from now when it comes time to open them up and enjoy the adventures within.

BCWAS Tasting: Gray Monk Gamut

Last night the members of the BC Wine Appreciation Society enjoyed our final tasting before the summer hiatus. Steven Heiss and his wife Dawn joined us from Gray Monk Estate Winery to sample a broad range of wines produced by this long-time family-owned winery. Steven’s parents George and Trudy started Gray Monk over forty years ago when they planted their first grapes north of Kelowna. Now he and his two brothers – and their respective families – oversee most of the winery’s operations and winemaking, with Steven focusing on sales and George Jr. acting as head winemaker. It soon became clear that working so closely with one’s family keeps things exciting for Steven, as he recounted many hilarious and engrossing tales from the vineyards and cellar!

Proprietors George and Trudy originally met in Edmonton, a city which seems to have an unusual draw for the Heiss family (Steven himself spent time there as a musician before returning to BC in the mid 1990’s). It would seem the couple met in the course of Trudy’s tenure as a hair model, on whom George could practice his hairdressing skills. After marrying in 1962, they eventually left the surprisingly vibrant Edmonton hairdressing scene for British Columbia, where they bought the land that would become Gray Monk in 1972. The purchase of a single book on vine grafting helped the burgeoning self-taught viticulturists establish a series of “suitcase vines” brought over from Europe, with a strong focus on Pinot Gris, known as “Grauer Monch” in Germany. Steven shared the fact that his parents originally sold their grapes to others, but the wine that was produced after all their hard work in the vineyard was distasteful to say the least. As a result, by 1982 Gray Monk’s winery had been built in order to facilitate estate winemaking.

We began our tasting with samples of hard-to-come-by 2009 Odyssey Traditional Brut, a new wine released last year with a unique “Celebration Edition” label. The very worthy celebration being noted was Gray Monk’s 30-40-50 Anniversary: 50 years of marriage for George and Trudy, 40 years of vineyards, and 30  years of winemaking. The Traditional Brut complements the winery’s existing Odyssey White Brut, a more off-dry blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay Musque, and Riesling which I recently enjoyed courtesy of some friends with good taste. The Traditional Brut is quite naturally a more traditional champagne blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier, with a toasty, yeasty nose and a fine mousse. It was well liked, particularly as an ideal start to the evening!

A series of Gray Monk’s many white wines came next, beginning with the (reserve) Odyssey Pinot Gris and regular Estate Pinot Gris. The 2011 Odyssey comes from vines originally planted in 1978, which are treated with special care as they approach middle age. Intended as a drier, more food-friendly wine, it showed off a complex palate and rich texture with plenty of ripe stonefruit flavours. The 2012 Estate was recently named Best Pinot Gris at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, and was awash in ripe fruit salad and floral aromas, with a strong peach focus and a sweeter palate than the Odyssey edition.

Following the Pinot Gris, we enjoyed 2012 vintages of Gewurztraminer, Pinot Auxerrois, Siegerrebe, and Ehrenfelser. My personal favourite, and that of many it seemed, was the Ehrenfelser, with an extremely fresh flavour profile and rich fruit salad characteristics. Unfortunately, Gray Monk’s Ehrenfelser vines are still recovering from their earlier use in icewine production, and so it remains a winery exclusive production at present. The Siegerrebe is apparently Trudy’s favourite wine, with a softer canned fruit salad profile that favours pears and peaches, plus a slight perfumed aroma, while the Pinot Auxerrois came across as fairly subdued in fact. The light body and low acid of the Auxerrois followed the highly perfumed Gewurztraminer, which although possessing pleasant lychee aromas ultimately exceeded my own personal preferences in terms of floral intensity – to each his or her own however!

A couple of Gray Monk’s Odyssey series red wines were also available, giving us a chance to see how the winery is expanding beyond their traditional focus on aromatic whites. The 2010 Odyssey Merlot comes from Oliver and Black Sage Bench fruit; it provided an intriguing hint of sausage on the nose that carried through on to the dry palate. The 2010 Odyssey Meritage was said to be all Black Sage Bench fruit (a blend of Merlot and Cabernets Franc & Sauvignon); it was even drier than the Merlot, with more tannin to boot, but showing bright fruit flavours and hints of meat and leather on the palate.

A couple of highly enjoyable treats served to cap the tasting, beginning with Gray Monk’s Odyssey “III” Port-style fortified wine. This Merlot-based wine is fortified with spirits locally distilled from Gray Monk’s own grapes, with a focus on retaining the original flavours. The “III” has been produced in a solera-style since 2005, and came across as full-bodied but only moderately sweet (51 grams per liter of residual sugar), no doubt making it more versatile when it comes to food pairing. Flavours of cherry and chocolate would make it an ideal companion for homemade Black Forest Cake.

An unexpected surprise from Steven was a sample of 2001 Late Harvest Kerner, held in the Gray Monk wine library for quite a while, and very valuable as an educational experience. On the nose there was an initial funky character (and in fact a couple of the bottles were somewhat corked), and aromas of ink and linen that reminded me of a printing press. Over time apples and honey aromas emerged as the wine warmed up, where it seemed to show better in fact. Altogether it was less impressive on the palate, but a fascinating study of the variety and style. The winery still produces a varietal Kerner, but no longer differentiates based on harvest dates: the 2012 vintage possesses nearly 70 grams per liter of residual sugar, so customers are hopefully purchasing it with some advance knowledge of what to expect.

Although his superb history of the winery came at the beginning of the evening, Steven’s highly enjoyable commentary was a feature throughout the tasting. The details he provided for each wine, and his willingness to answer questions truly enriched the experience, and left everyone talking about how much fun we’d had, above and beyond the well-crafted wines! Many thanks go to Steven and Dawn, and the entire Gray Monk family, for sharing so much with the BC Wine Appreciation Society and the many local fans of Gray Monk.

Wine Bloggers Conference 2013 – Part III

The Wine Blogger’s Conference in Penticton concluded last Saturday night, but instead of heading home to Vancouver on Sunday we decided a more relaxing agenda was in order. I had been wanting to visit the luxurious villa suites at Hester Creek for some time, and it seemed like the perfect opportunity for my wife and I to refresh and reconnect after the busy days apart during the Conference. A night in the southern Okanagan could be followed by a more leisurely drive home on Monday, with the fringe benefit of course that we could visit a few more wineries at a slower pace. So after a hearty breakfast we packed up the car, made sure to visit our friend Jeanette’s delightful little art gallery in downtown Penticton, and struck out for another day in sunny wine country.

By early afternoon we arrived in Okanagan Falls and stopped for a light lunch of ice cream cones at Tickleberry’s. Fun Fact: you can have ice cream for lunch when you’re on vacation. Soon we passed by McIntyre Bluff, marking our entry into the south Okanagan, and swung off the highway to route through the Black Sage Bench and the many excellent wineries there. Immediately upon us at the head of Tucelnuit Drive was Jackson-Triggs’ massive production facility, and we took the opportunity to visit the JT tasting room for the first time. I’d already picked up a couple bottles of Jackson-Triggs reds at the Penticton VQA Store, but appreciated the opportunity to taste both the 2010 Sunrock Shiraz and Grand Reserve Cabernet-Shiraz-Viognier in person to confirm my selection. Our next stop was at Quinta Ferreira in Oliver. I sought out the winery’s Best of Class Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and added a couple more bottles to the multi-case collection in the trunk. Quinta Ferreira’s picturesque vineyards also offered me the opportunity to capture a photograph looking back north.

Travelling further south along Black Sage Road we faced the difficult choice of where to stop, having to skip over a number of intriguing and excellent wineries for the sake of time. It doesn’t hurt to leave something for next time as well! We couldn’t pass up the chance to visit the gorgeous tasting room of Church & State; at the very least I needed to continue my vertical of the winery’s icon red blend “Quintessential”. We always enjoy the sleek architecture and stunning views at Church & State, and the staff’s thorough professionalism never disappoints. Down the street the superb customer service of Black Hills was the next to impress us, in particular due to Jeff Stewart having joined the team after showing us a great time last year at LaStella. Jeff walked us through a leisurely and thought-provoking tasting of the entire Black Hills portfolio outside by the “water feature” (i.e., after-hours pool), including the marvellous, complex 2011 Carménère. Back on the road, and approaching the northern end of Osoyoos Lake, we needed to visit Burrowing Owl for their newly released 2010 Meritage and Syrah, both of which are sure to sell out promptly.

Winery visits complete for the day, and needing some time to reorganize the many boxes of bottles joining us, we looked forward to what would surely be a soothing evening at Hester Creek. Even our optimistic hopes were easily surpassed after driving up the exclusive path through the vineyards to be greeted by friendly Villa Manager Melissa McLaughlin and shown to our immaculate room. A complimentary bottle of the winery’s Character White helped us relax even further as we unpacked the car and admired the expansive views as the sun slowly set behind us. With no more driving necessary until the next day it was nice to enjoy a generous glass of wine after a few days of responsible tour tasting.

The reason we could park the car for the night was because of our dinner reservations at Hester Creek’s Terrafina Restaurant, a very short walk down the hill past the Tasting Room. In fact, Terrafina occupies the space originally devoted to the tasting room, before the new winery and guest centre were built in 2009. We made sure to leave for dinner early enough to first visit the (new) tasting room, where we methodically sampled all the wines available, with the advantage being that we were the only guests right before closing. The always fascinating Trebbiano made an impression with orange blossom focus, along with the toasty 2011 Merlot and the spicy new Cabernet Franc Rosé. The Rosé is a winery exclusive release, of which a couple bottles were sure to find their way home with us.

At Terrafina we settled into a comfortable vineyard view table indoors, although a number of very nice patio tables beckon guests as well. Just as predicted based on past experiences, dinner was superb, particularly the wild-harvested morel mushroom appetizer on special that day. A crisp salad, delicious vegetable pavé, and a crab & corn pizza from the restaurant’s wood-fired oven rounded out the meal to our considerable pleasure. We walked back to our Villa room with glee – given how rare that opportunity arises – and enjoyed a very relaxing night’s sleep on the massive king-sized bed in air-conditioned comfort. Sunrise breakfast on our private terrace the next morning continued to impress, and it was easy to muse about spending more time at the Villa in the future while we packed up to depart. Still, it was shaping up to be a spectacular day in the Okanagan, and we had a number of wineries to visit before we headed home via the Similkameen Valley, and more of our favourite venues.

After a stop at the Hester Creek wine shop to stock up on some favourites, we proceeded down the road a couple of minutes to Road 13, always a must-visit winery given so many great memories there. Road 13 has also come into the habit lately of releasing a bevy of small lot wines, so there’s almost always something new or up-and-coming when we visit. Recent releases include the Jackpot Viognier-Roussanne-Marsanne and the very hard to find Old Vines Chenin Blanc, plus a Jackpot Reserve version of the same. The stocking up continued, plus we got to watch the upcoming 2010 Sparkling Chenin Blanc being labelled and prepared for release within weeks. We even got the chance to say hello to recently-married Joe Luckhurst (son of owners Pam & Mick), who shared with us a sample of ridiculously-ripe Similkameen Merlot destined for a particularly great wine in the years to come. I’ll be waiting to see what comes out of it in the end, with my fingers crossed for just a little bit of vintage Port!

Further down the road towards Osoyoos we zipped in to LaStella, with our focus being olive oil in fact: LaStella’s importation of fine Sicilian organic olive oil is almost more exciting than their incredible wines! The olive oil is available only at the winery, and we have learned never to leave the Okanagan without acquiring some, not only for ourselves but as a great gift for others. Of course, adding some fresh Moscato D’Osoyoos and LaStella’s gorgeous Merlot to the mix also made plenty of sense. The growing collection of bottles was joined by a few more from Moon Curser before we left town as well, where we got the chance to snag plenty of new release reds, including their first varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Even better was the chance to obtain what is likely Canada’s first varietal Touriga Nacional, of which only a meagre 60 cases were produced!

Finally it came time to head west back towards home, and fortunately that route took us directly through the picturesque Similkameen Valley and the many wineries we enjoy visiting there. At our first stop, Forbidden Fruit, we enjoyed lunch takeout we’d picked up in Osoyoos, while sitting by the Similkameen river and watching a family of deer cavorting on the opposite bank. Up the road at Seven Stones we stopped to offer thanks for a wonderful dinner during the Conference excursion, and to pick up a bottle of Syrah for good measure. Next was our umpteenth visit to Orofino, where we ensured John & Virginia Weber’s venue remained our “most-visited” winery of all time. Despite my upcoming mixed case of wine via the new Orofino Collector’s Club, we needed one more bottle of delicious Moscato Frizzante for good measure.

Although many more great Similkameen wineries exist our final stop before hitting the road was at Herder, to catch up and buy what may be some of the final vintages there. Sadly, the entire Herder property is for sale, and although the vineyards should remain productive the Herder label may not be around for much longer. Thus, a magnum of Pinot Noir (among other special bottles) found its way into the car – which would soon make a friend back in Vancouver very happy. All told, we finished the trip in possession of about eight cases of wine – and a great many memories as well – which should keep me quite busy sorting, cataloguing, and writing about in the weeks to come. The scary thing is we’re headed back to wine country in only a couple of weeks for a tour with my mother; good thing there are plenty of potential adventures remaining, and even a few bottles of wine if I’m lucky!

Wine Bloggers Conference 2013 – Part II

After a day spent indoors for most Conference participants there was an eagerness to get outside and enjoy the beautiful Okanagan summer weather. I had already snuck out to visit a couple wineries in the morning, but was just as excited to depart on the bus for our mystery excursion to feature “wine & geology”. To be honest I had already surmised the excursion would be visiting the beautiful Similkameen Valley, and that we’d be dining at a very special new location, which is why I’d hustled to get on board that particular bus! Joining me were my wife and a blogger friend of ours from Vancouver, plus plenty more friendly faces I recognized throughout the full busload. Under the enthusiastic leadership of Kim Lawton from the Similkameen Wineries Association, we took off for Keremeos and our first stop.

After an exciting trip through Marron Valley via Kaleden and Highway 3A we arrived in Keremeos from the north and pulled into the Grist Mill Heritage Site. This functioning flour mill, with original machinery intact, was built in 1877 and is the last remaining site of its kind in Western Canada. Inside the Visitor Centre we were greeted with sparkling wine from Orofino Vineyards and Rustic Roots, along with fresh oysters and other treats to enjoy on our tour of the grounds. The lush gardens and swiftly rushing creek provided for a relaxing venue to chat and begin an introduction to the Similkameen. Still, it wasn’t long before we were off to our dinner destination at Seven Stones, with everyone’s palates refreshed and ready for more!

We zipped down the Crowsnest Highway through Cawston to reach Seven Stones, one of the southernmost wineries in the valley (outdone only by Vineglass and Forbidden Fruit, nearly at the American border). At George Hanson’s beautifully-sited winery the entire Similkameen Wineries Association was awaiting us, with such a bevy of wines from the nine wineries one could scarcely count them all, let alone taste them! That’s not to say the group didn’t try, as each winery proprietor was present to convey their unique story and pour in person. The bloggers were divided amongst three groups, and alternately toured the property with George or explored the terrain of the region with trained geologist Dale Wright of Eau Vivre Winery. Tasting through the wonderfully varied wines of the Similkameen – from fruit frizzantes to bold Cabernet Sauvignon – was certainly a cherished moment, yet the high point of the tour was exploring George’s brand new wine cave.

The multi-wing concrete caves extending underneath Seven Stones are nearing completion, and George was only too happy to show off what should soon be one of the premier wine-tourism destinations in the Similkameen. Although one wing will store Seven Stones’ many barrels (and connects directly to George’s home), a second wing has a promising future as a highly desirable event space, including a commercial kitchen and a full suite of lighting and sound. It was in that enigmatic locale that Chef Chris Van Hooydonk of Artisan Culinary Concepts was preparing a tapas feast for dinner. Guests still tasting upstairs needn’t have worried, as every remaining bottle was ferried down to the cave where we could all help ourselves with dinner! As good as the wine was, it was almost outshone by Chef Van Hooydonk’s spectacular spread of food, of which not a single crumb could be found at the end of the evening.

Amongst a great many thanks and congratulations to our hosts, it took quite a while to round up the bloggers for our departure to a reception with the four other excursion troops. We reunited with our compatriots at Spirit Ridge Resort, home of the celebrated Nk’Mip Cellars, for a rooftop party hosted by the Oliver-Osoyoos Winery Association. As the sun set we cavorted late into the night, and did our best to keep anchored in the increasingly-amusing windy weather. No doubt the staff at Spirit Ridge weren’t amused by how many broken glasses resulted from the table-clearing gusts, but the conditions certainly kept things exciting! Once again we were gracefully chauffeured back to Penticton Lakeside Resort for more after-hours parties and some solid sleep for the wisest among us.

Saturday morning began with a luxurious breakfast in Gyro Park across the street from the hotel, organized by the Downtown Penticton Business Association. With everything from fresh crepes to mouth-watering pastries and savoury breakfast wraps there was something for everyone, regardless of their waking state. I myself fuelled up for the day, given that I would be spending the morning wine touring once again, and had even corrupted a fellow blogger into joining me! My wife was to spend the day gallivanting with several friends on a bachelorette party weekend which just happened to coincide – geographically and chronologically – with the Conference, so we dropped her off in Naramata and set out with shopping list in hand.

Stops at Elephant Island and Kettle Valley produced some key acquisitions, and we even auspiciously spotted Robert Van Westen erecting his road-side sign, prompting another winery visit. Rob was even kind enough to treat us to a barrel sample of his upcoming 2012 Pinot Noir, which should easily match the superb quality found in the 2011 “VD” collaboration with Tom Di Bello. Before returning to the hotel for lunch and afternoon sessions we enjoyed a leisurely tasting on the patio at Laughing Stock, where I picked up my latest Preferred Share Wine Club allotment. Tasting both the 2011 Syrah and Blind Trust Red I was quite pleased to be taking home three bottles of each of these finely crafted and very promising red wines.

Back in Penticton my fellow blogger and I caught the tail end of lunch with Wines of Uruguay, and committed to attending the afternoon sessions, including the enticingly-named “Drink Them Before They’re Famous”. That breakout session hosted by Master Sommelier George Miliotes introduced us to a stunningly good custom Gamay that had not yet been tasted by anyone beyond the development team. An introduction to Canadian icewine from Inniskillin came next, with some remarkable story-telling by guest speaker Randy Picton, Winemaker at Nk’Mip. Randy recounted the spectacular longevity of an open bottle of icewine he kept in his laboratory fridge for years, prompting a few attendees to recork the sample bottles throughout the room and slip them into satchels for later! We immediately moved into the next “Live Wine Blogging” segment, featuring many high end local reds, and of which I was sure to participate in full this time, to much relief and enjoyment. Lastly, New Wines of Greece hosted a lengthy pre-dinner reception featuring a slew of educational opportunities for those of us – myself included – who had yet to taste from grapes with names like Assyrtiko and Xinomavro.

The closing dinner prepared by the Resort’s Head Chef Chris Remington required the challenging selection of only four wines from the myriad wineries represented at the Conference. Poplar Grove’s highly respected Pinot Gris was a nice match for the first course of candied salmon, while the second course halibut sang with Hester Creek’s Character White blend. Hopefully those present were able to appreciate the inclusion of the Okanagan’s only Trebbiano grapes (from 45-year-old vines no less) in the Character White, alongside Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc. Penticton’s “in-town” winery Perseus, within walking distance of the hotel, was tapped for their full-bodied Invictus red blend to pair with lamb and lentils. Although I skipped the lamb in favour of more lentils and roasted beets I had no trouble enjoying the dark, ripe fruit found within the predominantly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon of the Invictus. Our final course consisted of generously portioned cheesecake and the unexpected Lemberger Icewine of West Kelowna’s Little Straw Vineyards. An individual 50mL bottle for every diner revealed delicious fresh, clean berry fruit flavours, and likely prompted some unique wine journal entries as well.

After several hilarious skits and the conclusion of the Wine Blog Awards, some well deserved applause for the Conference organizers acknowledged the passion that brought WBC13 to Penticton in the first place. It was then revealed that next year’s Conference will be held in Buellton, California, where attendees will enjoy the wines of over 100 members of the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association. Just like that the 2013 Conference was over: I’m so glad I made the decision to attend, which in retrospect I can scarcely believe was even in question! Fortunately for my wife and I the adventure was to continue for one more night in the Okanagan, with a luxurious stay at Hester Creek’s Villa coming up next!