BCWAS Pinot Noir Blind Tasting

The BC Wine Appreciation Society recently hosted their third annual double blind varietal wine tasting, pitting nine BC bottles against one another and three international competitors. Previous years featured Syrah and Cabernet Franc, making Pinot Noir an ideal candidate this time around. Although Pinot Noir has remained the second-most-planted red grape in BC for at least fifteen years it has recently begun to garner more attention. Last year’s naming of the Mission Hill Martin’s Lane 2011 Pinot Noir as “World’s Best” at the Decanter Awards put an international spotlight on the excellent work being done here.

There exist a number of experienced and talented winemakers focussed – sometimes exclusively – on Pinot Noir in our local industry. One such person is Bradley Cooper, owner of Black Cloud, plus current Winemaker at Serendipity Winery. Brad was generous enough to join the Society for the Blind Tasting, to serve as Moderator and provide insight on Pinot Noir and the BC wine industry. Brad’s years of service at Township 7 helped build the winemaking experience that allowed him and his wife Audralee Daum to launch their own “garagiste” wine brand Black Cloud a few years ago, making small quantities of Pinot Noir-exclusive wines.

Brad reminded everyone of the renaissance Pinot Noir experienced following the release of the movie Sideways in 2004. The film effectively raised the profile of Pinot Noir in North America, providing consumers with a re-introduction to this complex and remarkably drinkable wine. While many local wineries have relatively long histories with Pinot Noir, the last decade in particular has offered up winemakers the freedom to explore their passion and hone their techniques. Along with the more well known, long-running Pinot Noir producers (e.g., Blue Mountain, Quails’ Gate), a great number of smaller wineries have existed historically or have come on stream in the last few years.

Just like past blind tastings, this year featured plenty of delicious wines along with many surprises when the popular vote results were revealed. The wines seemed to range from those in the lighter, more delicate spectrum to dark, rich, and oak-influenced: we smelled and tasted flowers and earth, raspberry, orange, cherries, strawberries and more; plus leather, mushrooms, barnyard, and toasted oak. Knowing the broad range in which Pinot Noir is grown in BC, interpretations and hypotheses were left wide open: in the Okanagan Valley alone it is planted from the desert of Osoyoos to the forested hills of Vernon.

Participants received a short ballot on which to record their top five favourites, in rank order, to analyze the popular vote using a Borda Count spreadsheet. This method of assigning points is fairly robust in dealing with truncated ballots, which is why a ranking of all twelve wines was not required. Three different scoring systems were used to ensure redundancy, and provided the Society Executive with a overview of favourites: wines were thus revealed in three groups. Latter analyses based exclusively on the twelve-point scoring system (i.e., 12 points for every first place ballot ranking, 11 points for second, etc.) enabled a complete ranking to be compiled.

The bottom four wines included two of the three international contributions to the tasting. Last year’s Cabernet Franc blind tasting found the French contribution least favoured, and surprisingly a solid last place finish was once again accorded to old world viniculture. The relatively pricey, aged 2009 vintage of Domaine Louis Jadot Santenay “Clos de Malte” from the Côte du Beaune region of Burgundy simply didn’t find favour amongst BC wine aficionados. Rounding out the bottom four, but scoring significantly higher than the Burgundy, were the Black Cloud 2011 “Altostratus”, Oregon’s Evesham Wood 2013 vintage, and the 2011 Reserve from Blue Mountain. Both the Black Cloud and Blue Mountain were derived from the cool 2011 vintage, yielding bright berry fruit with hints of leather; but perhaps just a bit too tart and lean for some.

The middle group of wines – ranked 8th to 5th – contained some well-known favourites, with significant history behind them. CedarCreek’s 2012 Platinum Block 2 Pinot Noir represents a family of reserve-tier wines going back many years, and was split into block-specific wines starting in 2011. In comparison to what the winery describes as structured, chocolate and spice character in Block 4, the gold medal Block 2 yields a more delicate, floral profile thanks to surprisingly different soils in the adjacent blocks. Alongside CedarCreek we revealed the 2012 vintage from new Lake Country winery 50th Parallel. After many years at Quails’ Gate, Winemaker Grant Stanley partnered with Curtis & Sheri-Lee Krouzel to build 50th Parallel, which focuses on premium Pinot Noir and opened for business in 2013. As the young vineyards mature and Grant becomes even better acquainted with the terroir, the future of Pinot Noir at 50th Parallel should be a prosperous one.

Two notable award-winning wines and wineries followed, as Haywire and Howling Bluff garnered support in the top half of the favourites. Both wineries are the recipients of Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for their Pinot Noir, with the creamy 2011 Haywire Canyonview having received the award just last year. Summerland’s Haywire (based at Okanagan Crush Pad) is going all in with Pinot Noir, planting up to 50 acres of own-rooted vines in the nearby Garnet Valley. Across the lake on the Naramata Bench, Luke Smith’s Howling Bluff has received not only two Lt. Governor’s Awards for Pinot Noir (2006 & 2009) but received Red Wine of the Year honours from the Canadian Wine Awards (for his 2008 Pinot Noir). We received the fortunate opportunity to taste the yet-to-be-released, juicy 2012 Summa Quies vintage, the reserve tier from Luke’s premier estate vineyard.

Overall Ranking

1.  Eau Vivre 2013 ($22)

2.  Kim Crawford Rise And Shine 2012 ($35)

3.  Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt 2012 ($30)

4.  Meyer Reimer Vineyard 2012 ($40)

5.  Howling Bluff Summa Quies 2012 ($35)

6.  Haywire Canyonview 2011 ($35)

7.  50th Parallel 2012 ($32)

8.  CedarCreek Platinum Block 2 2012 ($45)

9.  Blue Mountain Reserve 2011 ($40)

10.  Evesham Wood 2013 ($34)

11.  Black Cloud Altostratus 2011 ($35)

12.  Louis Jadot Santenay 2009 ($45)

Closely ranked in fourth and third place respectively were Meyer’s 2012 single vineyard offering from Kelowna’s Reimer Vineyard, and Nk’Mip’s Osoyoos-appellation Qwam Qwmt (Reserve) from the same superb vintage. Despite being sourced from vineyards at nearly opposite ends of the Okanagan, the wines presented similarly intense, dark palates; with the expressive toasted oak aromas from Meyer yielding to slightly more subtle perfumed red fruit from Nk’Mip. At last year’s National Wine Awards the Meyer took home a silver medal in competition, while the Nk’Mip was awarded gold.

With only two wines remaining we finally discovered the group’s favourite BC bottle of the tasting, in the form of Eau Vivre’s 2013, the only contender from the Similkameen Valley. A close second was New Zealand’s Kim Crawford Small Parcels “Rise and Shine” 2012, bringing more rich, dark complexity from the southern hemisphere. In 2012 and 2013 Eau Vivre won consecutive Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for their 2009 and 2010 Pinot Noir. The newest 2013 vintage provided impressive, complex aromas of spiced cherries, with hints of earthy mushrooms. The rich palate provided more cherries, cinnamon, and cloves, with a touch of marmalade on toast: the wine appeared in the Top Five ranking on 32 of 48 ballots. Those with a little bit left in their glasses were lucky indeed; revisiting the wines now exposed proved an engaging conclusion to a very thought-provoking evening!

BC Syrah Spices Up Wine Festival

In the days leading up to the prestigious Vancouver International Wine Festival I reviewed the potential contributions of the twenty-seven BC wineries that would be attending. With the Festival’s “Feature Variety” being Syrah this year there would be ample opportunity for local wineries to exhibit their world- class presentations of the grape – which thrives in the desert vineyards of Oliver & Osoyoos in particular. As the grateful recipient of a Media Pass for the Festival’s International Tasting Room I spent time exploring a great many Australian Shiraz from the Theme Region, but the lovely local competitors stood out as well.

Several sessions in the Tasting Room at the Vancouver Convention Centre ensured I was able to find and enjoy fifteen BC wineries sampling their Syrah. There were wines from entry to icon level, miniscule small lots and market-spanning productions, all poured with pride by the Winemakers and Proprietors in attendance. I tasted many existing favourites, found new ones, and relished trying wines I hadn’t expected when I previewed the most likely wines last month.

With the national sections laid out in sensible alphabetical order I started my BC review at Backyard Vineyards, the growing Langley winery recently joined by capable and experienced Winemaker James Cambridge. James poured me 2012 Syrah, harvested before his arrival, and a sample of 2013 he has managed in full since harvest. The youthful tannins in the 2012 were obvious, but the clean and fruity palate showed off lovely cherry flavours. Fresher and also bigger in body was the 2013, with a luscious palate presenting jammy character.

Next door I found Glenn Fawcett, President of acclaimed Black Hills, pouring his 2012 Syrah, still toasty and young after a year in bottle. The wine can be found in some stores but is sold out at the winery. A juicy, spicy palate and sweet vanilla notes proved more than sufficient for current enjoyment while the newly-bottled 2013 awaits release. Just across the aisle Adrian Cassini was providing a glimpse at his ultra-rare Cassini Cellars “Grand Reserve” 2011 Syrah, of which a mere 75 cases were produced. The intense black cherry aromas followed through on the long finish of the rich cherry pie palate. To pour such a rarity at the Festival is commendable, considering it will likely sell out at the winery in short order.

The table of wines from Haywire was being shown off by the enthusiastic team at Okanagan Crush Pad, including newly-promoted Chief Winemaker Matt Dumayne. The 2012 Syrah yielded a fresh, expressive nose with plenty of fruit and a hint of leather – aging in old French barrels kept the fruit first and foremost. It’s quite quaffable, and definitely one of the best values at only $21 for Black Sage Bench fruit. Just around the corner Laughing Stock power couple David & Cynthia Enns were present with their highly coveted Platinum medal 2012 Syrah. Sourced from their Osoyoos vineyard, the wine greatly impressed, with a nose of sweet flowers and perfumed leather – clean and fresh in part due to 4% Viognier. The gorgeous full palate was awash in pure dark berry fruit, with white pepper and chocolate flavours on top. With the 2012 now sold out at the winery fans are eagerly awaiting the 2013 release in June.

Back-to-back at the end of the row, flanking the Wines of BC booth, I found Painted Rock and Poplar Grove. John Skinner was on hand to pour his 2012 Painted Rock Syrah, already yielding much more fruit expression than the youthful bottle I opened in December. As the initial oak treatment integrates, flavours of bright cherry and strawberry are coming out to complement aromas of vanilla and leather. A curtain away, Poplar Grove Winemaker Stefan Arnason was slinging the newly released 2011 Syrah, after 18 months of bottle age. Despite the cooler 2011 season, the refreshing wine provided a very nice, clean, fruity profile that benefits from a touch of Viognier. Stefan’s take is that his Syrah program is “dialled in” with no changes desired or expected going forward, and none are seemingly needed.

Less than two years since winning a Lt. Governor’s Award for her 2010 Reserve Syrah, Red Rooster Winemaker Karen Gillis was present with the 2012 iteration. Although the wine is not yet officially released it was already displaying a lingering fruit forward profile with sweet spice and a silky texture. Things got a bit darker next door at Road 13 where the charming Joe & Laura Luckhurst were pouring 2012 Syrah, another upcoming release being readied for an April debut. The co-fermented blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier includes 15% Similkameen fruit to complement the Golden Mile winery’s Okanagan vineyards. A rich, toasty nose revealed generous dark fruit and mocha on the memorable palate – a powerful wine that Joe suggested “will follow you home.” I’ll be sure to keep a bed warm for this one!

When not busy graciously accepting his Spirited Industry Professional Award, Sandhill Winemaker Howard Soon was pouring two 2012 Syrah for eager guests. The excitement was to be expected considering Howard’s 2007 Small Lots Syrah was named Best Red Wine in Canada at the Canadian Wine Awards. The 2012 vintage continues the tradition of excellence with a complex profile of leather and earth, delicious milk chocolate, and attractive burnt sugar aromas. The 2012 Estate Syrah was also on hand, offering superb value at only $20 for a very accessible wine with ripe fruit and an enjoyably full texture.

More notable Syrah was present at nearby See Ya Later, where the 2012 “Rover” was being poured, showing off the BC Wine Award’s inaugural “Premier’s Award” for best wine. Having tasted it last fall I found the somewhat dichotomous sweet fruit and oak are now melding into a more complete wine. I also look forward to seeing what it becomes after a couple more years in bottle. Right next door I found another table of multiple Syrah, where Summerhill’s CEO Ezra Cipes was present pouring dual vintages. A 2010 Osoyoos-sourced Syrah from a vineyard transitioning to organic status provided tart cherry flavours and a smooth, easy drinking palate. The small lot “Spadefoot Toad Vineyard” 2011 Syrah was in bottle mere days, but provided a long, fresh fruit finish following the understandably restrained nose.

At the TIME Winery table, Harry McWatters was proud to present not just a new release, but his young winery’s first varietal Syrah, a natural fit for his Sundial vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. Six months after bottling (just 100 cases) the nose is still a little closed, but enticing savoury, meaty character was present. The lush, clean palate yielded ripe blackberry flavours with gamey, black pepper hints. Similar spicy notes came from another surprise next door at Tinhorn Creek, where the rare 2011 Oldfield Series Syrah was actually open for tasting – despite it having been sold out virtually since release last fall. A fragrant, fruity nose and juicy palate provided another reminder that the cool 2011 vintage was far from universally negative, despite the severe cropping required to yield just 168 cases from Tinhorn’s Black Sage and Golden Mile Bench vineyards.

Given my own favouritism for Syrah in general, particularly the exciting variety of styles and consistently high quality found in BC, this year’s Festival was extremely enjoyable for me. I am very grateful to have received media accreditation and admission to selected events, with particular thanks to Heth PR for their hard work supervising the accreditation process. As Australian wine enjoys a well-deserved renaissance thanks to the Festival, I’m sure the hard work is already ramping back up for next year’s celebration of Italy!

Laughing Stock Vertical at VanWineFest

This year the Vancouver International Wine Festival included very few BC-centric events, with just one outside the Festival Tasting Room. Fortunately that one event was of the highest calibre: a ten-year vertical of Laughing Stock’s flagship “Portfolio” Bordeaux-style red blend. The winery has been celebrating their tenth vintage release since the 2012 was introduced last fall, with similar Portfolio Verticals across Canada. Needless to say I was honoured and excited to have received an invitation to attend the sold out Wine Festival Vertical as media.

The tasting took place in the newly renovated boardroom of law firm Borden-Ladner-Gervais, and was moderated by local wine and food legend Sid Cross. Laughing Stock owners David & Cynthia Enns were present along with their new Wine Club & Tasting Room Manager Kendall Harris. Stunning views of the Convention Centre buildings and North Shore mountains provided an appropriate backdrop for the Enns’ impressive achievements. The “winery” started in 2001 when David imported one ton of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Washington to press in his White Rock garage. Only two years later they had moved production to the Naramata Bench and assembled the first Portfolio blend. In the dozen years since then Laughing Stock has amassed national and international acclaim, with sustainable growth at the same facility built in 2005, always focused on quality over quantity.

Based on experience from previous similar tastings in Vancouver, Toronto, and Montreal, along with guidance from Sid, the ten samples from 2003-2012 were divided into two flights of five. The 2007, 2006, and then 2005 were actually tasted first, representing the initial years of self-sufficient production from the Enns’ own winery. The 2007 expressed very attractive maturity and complexity on the nose, with baked strawberry and blueberry flavours that still retained fresh acidity; it would ultimately prove my favourite of the flight. Both 2006 and 2005 were more savoury and leathery on the nose, seemingly more tannic than the younger 2007, with stewed fruit flavours and hints of milk chocolate and olives, respectively.

The first two vintages (2003 & 2004) were crushed at the nearby Poplar Grove winery, and made in a simpler Cabernet-Merlot style (without the Malbec and Petit Verdot that would arrive later). Only 500 cases of the inaugural vintage were produced from an 8 ton harvest, and very, very few bottles remain. There was some suggestion that both early vintages are now past their prime, but I actually quite enjoyed the fully mature 2004. The sawdust aromas and thick, sedimentary texture of the 2003 left something to be desired, but the 2004 grew on me easily. It showed a very expressive nose and many interesting secondary flavours one doesn’t often get to enjoy, finishing second for me amongst the five samples in the flight.

Vintage	Merlot	Cab Sauv	Cab Franc	Malbec	P. Verdot
2003	64%	33%	3%	0%	0%
2004	55%	35%	10%	0%	0%
2005	59%	33%	3%	4%	1%
2006	61%	16%	16%	5%	2%
2007	56%	25%	12%	6%	1%

Tasting those older wines prompted some reminiscing from Cynthia and David, who were quick to recall early challenges with which they struggled. Although the winery immediately established a superb and now iconic branding that remains unchanged, the initial bottle labelling was not without headaches. The 2003 Portfolio was accidentally printed with estimated details yet to be finalized, including an inaccurate alcohol level and (not yet decided-upon) VQA status! Cynthia explained that the printer wisely choose to pay their VQA fees rather than reprint 6000 bottles. Even two years in there was plenty to overcome: for the 2005 harvest the new winery’s crush rollers were delayed, forcing the Enns (and whomever they could cajole into helping) to personally foot stomp 43 tons of fruit!

The second flight of wines represented the younger, more recent vintages, those for which the winemaking and equipment have been “dialled in” to meet the target style. Each one could continue aging well, but all provide quite pleasant current enjoyment. By 2008 the formula was relatively well-established, with room for vintage variation of course: half Merlot, one quarter Cabernet Sauvignon, one eighth Cabernet Franc, one sixteenth Malbec, and a percent or two of Petit Verdot. David reported that he produces each variety as an independent blend – mixing the wine from different vineyard blocks – before making the final Portfolio (and the “Blind Trust” second wine). The hundreds of blending trials consume many long days of solid tasting, testing, and re-tasting.

When comparing the 2008 to the earlier 2007 I could immediately detect more oak expression on the nose, with hints of leather and cocoa, but overall more restrained. The palate was clean and juicy, with plenty of life left. This was the first year David put the Cabernet Franc into puncheons, and the year he began fine-tuning whole cluster fermentation. While 2008 was a cool season overall (in the bottom three of the ten), the following year saw an extremely hot, albeit short, growing season. The resulting rapid ripening in 2009 yielded a rich and robust Portfolio, fuller-bodied and concentrated, with Cabernet varieties making up half the blend. The candied, fruit forward aromas were widely appreciated, and I enjoyed the floral hints, with even a hint of barnyard on the finish; it eventually became my close second-favourite of the flight.

The warm weather in 2009 was short-lived, as 2010 brought the start of two very cool seasons in a row, and a new set of challenges. Despite a slow start and a cool September, rigorous fruit thinning allowed Cabernet Sauvignon to dominate for the first time that year. Merlot decreased to only a third, and Malbec jumped up dramatically, demonstrating the uniqueness of each vintage. At little more than four years old, the 2010 introduced the fresh character of the younger wines, with tart red fruit and licorice flavours. The 2011 was similar, although the chilliest growing season by far resulted in cooler fruit flavours and a lighter-bodied wine. Still, a certain elegance emerged from the lean, bright palate – enough to warrant a prized Lieutenant Governor’s Award for that vintage!

Vintage	Merlot	Cab Sauv	Cab Franc	Malbec	P. Verdot
2008	53%	24%	12%	9%	2%
2009	36%	27%	22%	14%	1%
2010	32%	42%	6%	18%	2%
2011	42%	32%	17%	7%	2%
2012	45%	25%	22%	7%	1%

By 2012 growing conditions had dramatically improved, as that year was the first of three excellent seasons still going strong. The celebrated tenth vintage of Portfolio saw a return to somewhat more traditional proportions, although by now David is quite flexible in response to vineyard expression. For such a significant wine, the results could not have been better: the beautiful violet colour introduced a highly aromatic nose, with well integrated oak already. The tannins are predictably young, but the purity of fruit, balance, and delicious molasses hint on the finish gave me an immediate favourite wine of the flight.

With Kendall recording data at a flip-chart, Sid proceeded to ask for audience favourites, giving each guest two voting opportunities. The overall results showed a sweet spot at several years from vintage: the most preferred wine was the 2009, with 2008 and 2006/2007 coming in second and (tied for) third. Great things are likely still to come from the newer releases, particularly the string of great vintages from 2012-2014. And Portfolio is not the only source of greatness at Laughing Stock, with a full but focused selection of other wines. The winery’s 2007-acquired Osoyoos vineyard has yielded multi-award-winning Syrah since 2008, including the most recent (and now sold out) Platinum Medal 2012 vintage. David even revealed his re-entry into Pinot Noir territory, with two acres under vine on the Naramata Bench, and two vintages in barrel already. There will be many more exciting verticals yet to come!

Collectibles: February 2015

Some highly anticipated new releases put a smile on my face this month, including the arrival of rich red wines from CedarCreek in my latest Platinum Club delivery. A couple even served to resurrect Platinum reserve wines not made since 2009 – both very good candidates for the cellar. Joining them are unexpected acquisitions and entirely brand new wines alongside reliable favourites reaping the rewards of the healthy 2012 vintage.

Van Westen “VD” 2013 Pinot Noir: Rob Van Westen has been partnering with industry veteran Tom Di Bello (of CedarCreek and Burrowing Owl, among others) for three years so far, making small proportions of their own cheeky Pinot Noir. The “VD” moniker is coupled with an annual Valentine’s Day release, allowing no end to the puns they both enjoy when marketing the wine. It’s a Pinot Noir in the complex, earthy style, with toasty notes of clove and tobacco mingling with the bright berries and rich cherry fruit. From 96 cases in the first year, to 125 from 2012, now only 51 cases were made of the 2013, which Rob strongly recommends cellaring. Winery Direct $40

Stag’s Hollow 2012 Tempranillo: Fewer than a handful of varietal Tempranillo exist in BC, but the always adventurous Dwight Sick at Stag’s Hollow is enjoying the challenge of working with what Anthony Gismondi calls “a moody grape here in BC.” Winery owners Larry Gerelus and Linda Pruegger have actually planted Tempranillo in their Okanagan Falls estate vineyard, from which half the blend comprising 305 cases is harvested, plus the 10% Merlot component. This fragrant, fruity, savoury wine brought home a silver medal at the National Wine Awards last year. Swirl VQA Store $33

CedarCreek 2012 Platinum “Desert Ridge” Merlot: One of the long-lost Platinum reds, not seen since the 2009 vintage. The winery’s Osoyoos vineyard is home to eleven acres of Merlot, and selected rows typically yield the reserve-tier Merlot desired for the Platinum series. However, the 2010 and 2011 vintages were deemed not quite sufficient for a Platinum designation, making this a true reserve wine, only produced when deserving of the moniker. After 20 months in French oak, 550 cases were bottled last August, and finally released this spring after a long absence. Winery Direct $40

Road 13 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon: Originally released at the winery last spring, the 92 cases produced sold out in two weeks after Proprietor Mick Luckhurst declared it their best Cabernet ever. The winery hasn’t produced a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon since the 2007 “farewell” vintage, but times change and the winery is no longer as focused on blends as they were several years ago. The 2012 came from 1.3 acres on the Osoyoos East Bench, plus about one hundred kilograms of grapes (6% of the total) from the Similkameen Valley’s renowned Blind Creek Vineyard. Amazingly a few bottles found their way to Vancouver, and flew under the radar for the past ten months! Burrard Liquor Store $34

Nk’Mip 2012 Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon: The Osoyoos vineyards that produce Nk’Mip’s Cabernet Sauvignon are legendary, yielding grapes sold to many other wineries as well. After pushing through challenging conditions in 2011 the winery, and wine, seems back to form with the receipt of a gold medal from the National Wine Awards, where praise was given for the “very fruity, crowd-pleasing style.” Although 2011 garnered a silver medal, there was criticism for heavy oak treatment overwhelming the delicate fruit that year. The grapes in 2012 appear to have been ripe enough to accommodate 18 months in 90% French oak: with 14.8% alcohol there is still nearly 6 g/L of residual sugar. Swirl VQA Store $33

Lariana 2012 TWELVE: One of only two wines produced by this young and focused Osoyoos winery. After replacing an existing orchard in 2007 proprietors Dan & Carol Scott released a 2012 Viognier that garnered stellar praise from John Schreiner. The 2013 Viognier is now available, and with it this exciting red blend called simply TWELVE, presumably an homage to the winery’s first vintage. Consulting Winemaker Senka Tennant (founder of Black Hills and Terravista) crafted the blend from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Carménère, harvested from Lariana’s five-acre lakefront vineyard abutting the US border. The 480 cases produced are actually disseminating broadly, including to many VQA stores. Winery Direct $45

CedarCreek 2012 Platinum “Desert Ridge” Meritage: Like the aforementioned Merlot, the Platinum Meritage has been absent from the winery’s portfolio since the acclaimed 2009. With the even better 2012 vintage finally yielding fruit the winery felt was appropriate for the Platinum tier, the newest release of 525 cases will be snapped up by collectors. This complex wine is a blend of 54% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. For a taste of the baby brother try the new $25 Meritage (thoughtfully crafted from the same five varieties) that complements the existing $20 Merlot Cabernet. Winery Direct $45

Van Westen 2011 “V”: Rob Van Westen has been producing his age-worthy “Voluptuous” red blend (typically two thirds Merlot and one third Cabernet Franc) for several years, but added a more complex Bordeaux-style blend in 2009. It is appropriately given the Roman numeral “V” to signify the five varieties included, consisting of 49% Merlot, 24% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot in 2011. Like Rob’s other reds, it is very age-worthy, and previous releases have been suggested to benefit from up to several years in the cellar. Focusing on Merlot and Malbec in the cool 2011 vintage should hopefully continue the trend of praise he has received from critics such as Anthony Gismondi, who determined the 2010 to be “really impressive for the vintage.” Winery Direct $35

BCWAS Upper Bench Tasting

The most recent BC Wine Appreciation Society tasting was particularly delicious, because it featured both wine and cheese from Upper Bench Winery & Creamery. This young Penticton venture is the product of Gavin and Shana Miller, experienced veterans of the Okanagan wine industry. It was opened just four years ago, but Upper Bench has quickly become a popular stop at the south end of the Naramata Bench due to the Millers’ collective expertise.

John Schreiner details the Millers’ early years in the Okanagan in his Okanagan Wine Tour Guide (5th Edition). Gavin hails from Britain, and Shana from Nova Scotia: the couple met in Penticton in 1995 and then settled down there in 1997. Drawn to wine, Gavin gained experience throughout the valley and ended up making wine at both Poplar Grove and Painted Rock (at one point concurrently). At the same time, Shana was honing her craft making cheese at Poplar Grove. After the 2010 vintage the Millers took over a property being sold in the Holman Lang bankruptcy proceedings. They spent significant time and effort revamping the buildings and mature seven-acre vineyard to realize their dream.

The Upper Bench estate vineyard in Penticton includes three white varieties: Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay. We began with a taste of the 2012 Pinot Blanc, noting a slightly herbaceous quality reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of citrus and green pear led into a refreshing, crisp palate that revealed richer stone fruit and tropical notes as it warmed. Gavin originally produced a varietal Pinot Gris from nearby contracted vineyards, but the variety has now been cut from his portfolio. Without guaranteed estate fruit, and given his own preference for Blanc over the ubiquitous Gris, Gavin elected to bid adieu for the time being.

We next got an opportunity to enjoy the marvellous 2013 Chardonnay, making a strong case for the joy of cheese pairing. As we admired the soft orchard fruit aromas in the Chardonnay, Shana showed off a special batch of her “Gold” semi-soft, washed rind cheese – washed with the very same wine in our glasses! Gavin let half the Chardonnay ferment and age sur lie in new French oak for three months, yielding a superbly well-integrated profile. The rich texture in the Chardonnay matched the creamy cheese, with both providing fruity, apple flavours and a long, aromatic finish.

The reds started with 2012 Zweigelt, from a relatively rare grape in BC – representing less than 1% of red varieties in acreage. In fact, Gavin recently grafted over a majority of his legacy Zweigelt to Cabernet Sauvignon, leaving him with less than one acre in total. The wine has a bit of a cult following however, and he plans on continuing to produce about 100 cases per year. The 2012 spent 18 months in neutral oak, and displayed a complex nose of raspberry, leather, and toasty earth. The red berry character continued into the bright palate, making for a great pairing with dark chocolate. (Revisiting the wine later revealed surprisingly expressive cocoa aromas in fact.)

Pinot Noir from the same excellent 2012 vintage was next, showing off a fresh and clean nose of cranberry and young leather. The juicy fruit-forward palate revealed more of the same cranberries and strawberries, with a hint of earth. A relatively small amount of this wine was produced (331 cases), and few bottles remain after some excellent press recently, including a 90-point score and very positive write-up in the Globe & Mail by Beppi Crosariol.

The brand new 2012 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon followed, fresh from 20 months in 40% new French oak. The jump into a darker fruit palate from the Pinot Noir was readily apparent, with mint, eucalyptus, vanilla, and currants yielding to licorice and more currants in a smooth palate. The soft tannins and long finish make the wine very drinkable already, explaining why it wasn’t relegated to last in the tasting. Because the Cabernet is cropped low, there will never be a large quantity produced: the 2012 saw only 188 cases, at 3.1 tons per acre (with 2013 & 2014 at just two tons per acre).

An exciting group of Merlot was awaiting us to conclude the reds: Gavin is a major fan of Merlot, and feels it doesn’t get nearly the credit it deserves in BC. The 2011 vintage was his first, blending the estate fruit with that of the neighbouring Margaretta Vineyard; it spent 18 months in barrel before release in 2013. After some time in bottle it was ready to show off perfumed blueberries and leather, with dusty tannins and a long, tart finish that evolved into caramel notes.

For 2012 the Estate Merlot was bottled separately in 154 cases after 20 months in French oak. A second batch of 440 cases was produced from the neighbouring Drunken Dog and Four Shadows vineyards. The blended 2012, compared to the 2011, displayed noticeably darker fruit elements on the nose, to be expected from a much warmer and more prosperous vintage. The acidity was better balanced, the body fuller, and the tannins more prevalent in a wine showing generally richer character throughout. The 2012 Estate Merlot was similarly rich, and particularly smooth-bodied: earth and touches of caramelized sugar joined the ripe fruit on the palate, to yield an enthusiastically easy-drinking wine.

A fourth and final sample of Merlot came to us straight from barrels of 2013 estate vineyard fruit, not quite having completed the 18 months minimum aging Gavin favours. Naturally, the barrel influence was still quite strong, but surprisingly ripe fruit emerged on the nose, almost Port-like in character. The texture was smooth, albeit more noticeably tannic when comparing against the 2012 Estate. It was easy to savour flavours of chocolate and jammy toast however, providing a great deal of optimism for what will end up in bottle from yet another very good vintage.

With the gamut of rich reds still being swirled, and mouth-watering Brie and Blue cheeses still on hand, guests received a final wine in the form of chilled 2013 Riesling. The delicate tropical palate would prove ideal for concluding the tasting on a refreshing note. The honeyed nose revealed very slight petrol hints, with fresh citrus and pineapple dominating. A mere 8.3 grams of residual sugar made for supremely nice balance with the moderate acidity, finishing crisp and relatively dry.

With Upper Bench just getting started, there is plenty to look forward to from Gavin and Shana. They recently acquired a Naramata vineyard containing Cabernet Franc – a key red missing from their Penticton acreage. About 300 cases of a new 2013 Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend will soon be released under the title of “Yard Wine”. The name is an homage to wine they used to make for themselves from their own home’s backyard vineyard. As the Estate Vineyard recently reached twenty years of age, we can expect even greater complexity and evolution, plus more specialization amongst Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. And thanks to Shana, there will always be plenty of delicious cheese with which to pair it all!

VanWineFest BC Syrah Preview

The Vancouver International Wine Festival will provide an opportunity for BC wineries to showcase one of the province’s grape stars in Syrah, this year’s Global Focus. BC Syrah has received more national and international honours than any other grape variety grown in the province. BC Syrah was named “Red Wine of the Year” in nearly every season of the Canadian Wine Awards, and Syrah has dominated the “Best Red Wine” standing at the British Columbia Wine Awards for several years.

Nearly three quarters of the 27 BC wineries that will be present in the Festival’s focal International Tasting Room produce at least one Syrah-based wine, so guests should expect the local talent to show off their premium products. A thorough review of the attending wineries’ portfolios provides a preview and a few educated guesses about what to expect.

8th Generation Vineyard: A well-priced $25 “cool climate” Syrah is produced at times from the winery’s Summerland estate vineyard. The latest (2012) release, brought home a silver medal from the Northwest Wine Summit. Perhaps guests will get lucky and encounter the winery’s 2010 Syrah Icewine, originally intended as a table wine until an unexpected freeze provided for a serendipitous sweet treat.

Backyard Vineyards: For only $22 Syrah fans can find an easy-drinking value from this Langley winery. The 2012 wine made from Osoyoos grapes – and finished by new Winemaker James Cambridge – has garnered a triplet of silver medals in North American competition. It is reportedly accompanied by an upcoming Reserve version that John Schreiner deemed elegant and worth keeping an eye out for – perhaps a Festival release is in order?

Black Hills: Best known for their legendary Nota Bene red blend, Black Hills took advantage of their ideal location on the Black Sage Bench to begin producing a Syrah in 2009. The first vintage immediately received a gold medal at the 2012 BC Wine Awards, and subsequent vintages have been snapped up and enjoyed by the winery’s many fans. The “complex, spicy, compelling” current release 2012 has been well received by the WineAlign team, and should gain more admirers at the Festival.

Cassini Cellars: Adrian Cassini’s Syrah is one of several powerful red wines produced at an enviable location directly beside Highway 97 outside Oliver. Taking advantage of Syrah’s affinity for warm conditions in the southern Okanagan has produced plenty of successful vintages at Cassini: his 2009 Syrah was named Best of Varietal at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival two years in a row! The latest release comes from the cool 2011 vintage, but don’t be surprised to see 2012 on display at the Festival.

CedarCreek: For several years varietal Syrah was a celebrated, albeit small, part of this Kelowna winery’s portfolio, thanks to a prosperous Osoyoos vineyard. However in 2010 the varietal Syrah was discontinued in favour of an approachable entry-level Shiraz-Cabernet crafted by Australian Winemaker Darryl Brooker. Since then the winery has focused strongly on Kelowna Pinot Noir as their herald. Recent pre-release announcements for long-awaited 2012 reds omitted mention of Platinum (Reserve) Syrah, which may be permanently retired, but new release 2012 Shiraz-Cabernet is likely on the docket for the Festival.

Haywire: Okanagan Crush Pad’s house brand produces a family of wines at their Summerland winery, focused primarily on lighter reds and whites from their estate “Switchback” Vineyard. Acquiring grapes from the Black Sage Bench has enabled production of a 2012 Syrah, aged in old French oak barrels to maximize fruit expression, in the OCP style. This value-driven $21 wine received an impressive silver medal at the 2014 National Wine Awards, and will likely be present at the Festival. It would make sense for Okanagan Crush Pad’s recently released 2013 “Samantha” Syrah to also join the Haywire wine. A small lot of 150 cases were produced in concert with, and as an homage to the 2013 Festival’s Sommelier of the Year, Samantha Rahn.

La Frenz: While this acclaimed winery produces legendary whites in particular from three Naramata Bench vineyards, their ten acre “Rockyfeller” Vineyard on the Golden Mile yields late-ripening red varieties that include Syrah. The winery has elected to call their wine Shiraz due to the jammy ripeness it displays, while retaining the finesse of the Northern Rhone. The 2012 vintage should be on hand at the Festival, providing an opportunity to enjoy what the winery describes as “intense layers of dark fruit…and a seamless, lengthy finish.”

Laughing Stock: Since acquiring an Osoyoos vineyard in 2007, this Naramata Bench winery has used it to great effect producing award-winning Syrah. Inspiration is said to come from Côte Rotie, resulting in the inclusion of small proportions of Viognier. A Lt. Governor’s Award for the 2010 vintage was followed by a gold medal at the National Wine Awards for 2011, and most recently platinum at the Nationals for the 2012 release. Although the upcoming 2013 isn’t anticipated until June, some of the sold out 2012 was set aside for the Festival – this will most likely to be the last opportunity to purchase!

Nk’Mip Cellars: Smack dab in the middle of Canada’s best Syrah terroir around Osoyoos, Nk’Mip has a long and fruitful history with the grape. The winery’s reserve-tier Qwam Qwmt Syrah achieves regular critical accolades (including a Decanter gold medal for the 2008), and a very reasonably-priced Syrah blend named “Talon” was initiated beginning with the 2010 vintage. Both the newly-released gold-medal 2010 Qwam Qwmt Syrah and the more youthful, easy-drinking 2012 Talon should provide plenty to chew on at the Festival.

Painted Rock: Syrah has been a part of Proprietor John Skinner’s tightly-focused portfolio since the first vintage was released in 2007. Only two years later the 2009 vintage was awarded a Lt. Governor’s Award, bringing the young winery’s tally up to four in only three years! Although Syrah is most typically found in the southern Okanagan, Painted Rock’s estate vineyard on the Skaha Bench just south of Penticton has achieved plentiful success with late-ripening reds, and is the exclusive source of all the winery’s grapes. The textbook 2012 example will be available at the Festival, where the always-enthusiastic Skinner will be on hand to enlighten guests with captivating details.

Poplar Grove: Another Naramata Bench winery with land holdings further south, well respected Poplar Grove has a solid grasp on Syrah, despite perhaps more fame for their desirable Cabernet Franc and powerful Merlot. A pair of Osoyoos vineyards have yielded fruit for wines such as the varietal Syrah as well as the CSM (Cabernet-Syrah-Merlot) blend, a wine that hopefully shows up at the Festival. The 2011 Syrah was bottle-aged for 18 months before release last fall, and has already received silver medals from the BC Wine Awards and National Wine Awards.

Quails’ Gate: To celebrate the Stewart family’s success at their West Kelowna winery a series of special 25^th Anniversary wines were crafted for release in 2014. The first bottling of Syrah for Quails’ Gate is a winery-exclusive, small lot (320 case) production called “The Boswell” in honour of the family grandparents. Right out of the gate the wine was awarded one of five inaugural top-tier platinum medals at the BC Wine Awards. Collectors of premium BC wine rarities will be extremely lucky if Quails’ Gate offers this superb wine at the Festival!

Red Rooster: In 2013 Red Rooster received dual Lt. Governor’s Awards for their 2012 Reserve Viognier and 2010 Reserve Syrah. No surprise that the 2010 vintage is long gone, but the 2011 release remains available, showing off the enviable skills of humble Winemaker Karen Gillis. Grapes from two Oliver vineyards combined to yield precisely 476 cases of 2011 Reserve Syrah (there is in fact no “regular” Syrah at Red Rooster), oak-aged for 14 months. While the 2011 may be present at the Festival, the time since its release suggests a 2012 is imminent, and would be ideally suited to initial release this month.

Road 13: The fine cellar work of Winemaker J-M Bouchard has produced a bevy of Syrah-based delights from the original Golden Mile Cellars. Road 13 uses Syrah in more iterations than any BC winery, with five current named wines in the portfolio, and the inclusion of Syrah in at least three more of their red blends! Most recently the winery was awarded a platinum medal at the National Wine Awards for their 2012 Syrah Malbec, sadly long since sold out. Additional wines that remain available include the 2012 Syrah Mourvedre, and 2011 vintages of varietal Syrah, Jackpot (Reserve) Syrah, and Merlot Syrah – any of which could turn up at the Festival. The winery could easily use the opportunity to preview or release new vintages of the above wines as well.

Sage Hills: Proprietor and “Head Weed-Picker” Rick Thrussell is focused on being a winegrower, taking care to enact exacting, organic vineyard practices in Summerland. His initial 2012 & 2013 Pinot Noir achieved critical and consumer success, and the inaugural (2013) Syrah expected to be previewed at the Festival should also impress. A refreshing and fragrant off-dry Syrah Rosé is also part of the Sage Hills portfolio and may also make an appearance.

Sandhill: Veteran Winemaker Howard Soon has perfected Syrah at Sandhill after decades of experience. At the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards his Small Lots 2007 Syrah was named Canadian Red Wine of the Year (with Sandhill itself named Winery of the Year). The Small Lots Syrah hails from grower Dick Cleave’s Phantom Creek Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench, and from which fewer than a dozen barrels are produced each year. The nearby Sandhill Estate Vineyard also yields a white label Syrah, aggressively priced from the 2012 vintage at only $20. At the very least, a small proportion of the 300 cases of 2012 Small Lots Syrah – a BC Wine Awards gold-medal-winner – should be available at the Festival.

See Ya Later Ranch: At the 2014 BC Wine Awards the new Platinum Medal category was introduced in concert with top wine honours in the form of a “Premier’s Award”. See Ya Later’s 2012 “Rover” Shiraz-Viognier (with a curious 1% Pinot Noir) was the first wine to be assigned this prestigious tribute. The $22 wine has been selling particularly fast as a result, but it has always come with a strongly positive reputation since the initial 2007 vintage. Winemaker Dave Carson will hopefully be one hand to pour his wine with pride.

Summerhill: From a Kelowna winery best known for world-renowned sparkling wines, there exists a surprisingly broad range of table and dessert wines across the spectrum, including multiple iterations of Syrah. Considering the winery was generous enough to pour their stunning $88 “Cipes Ariel” 1998 sparkler at last year’s Festival, there is always the remote possibility that the $108 2011 Syrah Icewine may appear. More likely is that the varietal 2010 Syrah – at a more approachable $29 – will be available, sourced from the Aulakh Family Vineyard in Osoyoos. Other possibilities include a recently-released bottle-aged, complex 2013 Syrah Rose along with an age-worthy 2012 Cabernet Syrah from the winery’s charitable Robert Bateman Collection.

TIME: Harry McWatters’ new project on the Black Sage Bench continues to grow, and in fact a brand new winery is under construction there for the 2015 harvest. Once the new hospitality centre opens later this year visitors will be able to taste the range of whites and reds available – centered on Meritage – while gazing upon the mature Sundial Vineyard, first planted over fifty years ago. To be included in the growing portfolio as of this year is TIME’s first varietal Syrah, a 2012 vintage to be introduced exclusively at the Festival.

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards: Recent years have seen Sandra Oldfield’s Golden Mile winery struggle to obtain sufficient quantities of premium Syrah in cooler vintages: 2010 provided for only 210 cases, and the recently-released 2011 yielded only 150 cases, which sold out quickly to the winery’s Crush Club. Extensive bottle aging defines the Oldfield Series wines, so quantities for sale won’t increase until the 2012 is released much later this year. As a result, don’t expect to see any Syrah at the Tinhorn Creek table this year; enjoy the marvellous Merlot and Cabernet Franc instead!

Collectibles: January 2015

The new year brings ever more new wine, with increasing release of the 2012 vintage, now more than two years in the past. Even 2013 reds are starting to appear, having enjoyed a solid twelve months in their respective tanks and barrels. Some brand new Pinot Noirs came home with me alongside a few new vintages for cherished verticals, both young and old.

Foxtrot 2012 Pinot Noir: This wine obviously sees a more complex barrel program than most – it was only just bottled in September, two years after harvest. Widely acknowledged as one of BC’s superlative Pinot Noirs, the wine is produced in small proportions (500 cases) from a 3.5 acre Naramata Bench vineyard. Fortunately John Schreiner shared the good news last year of an expansion to the self-rooted vineyard. The wine is being released at the winery in February, and seems to have shown up in selected stores in advance. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $69

Nichol 2012 Pinot Noir: More Naramata Pinot, this time from one of the original wineries on the Bench. Nichol reports their vineyard (also own-rooted) was planted between 1989-1991, bringing at least some of the vines up past 25-years-old by now. The Pinot Noir comes from a mere six rows of vines, yielding about 400 cases that spent 13 months in neutral French oak. The winery describes it as the “fleshiest” Pinot they have released in some time, providing “more immediate pleasure than previous vintages,” but still good until 2020. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $34

SpierHead 2013 Pinot Noir Cuvée: I don’t often get to know a wine even before bottling, but this one crossed my lips in September during a winery visit as part of the BCWAS Bus Tour. Proprietor Bill Knutson generously offered our group tank samples the day before bottling, to great satisfaction. Originally imagined as a producer of Bordeaux varieties, the five-year-old winery has rapidly become known for finely crafted Pinot Noir. I was quite excited to learn of this flagship wine’s public release, but the miniscule 100 cases produced are few and far between – get it now! Sutton Place Wine Merchant $41

Nichol 2012 Cabernet Franc: All the Nichol reds are typically released together, from the same vintage, at the same time, and retail distribution is fairly well established. (That being said I haven’t spotted the Syrah just yet, as most stores are still selling the 2011.) The Cabernet Franc is a 414 case lot, having spent 12 months in neutral French oak before bottling last March. The excellent 2012 vintage has produced a particularly ripe wine in the eyes of the winery, with great aging potential until 2022. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $34

Osoyoos Larose 2010 Le Grand Vin: Everyone knows one of the original “icon reds” from BC, produced in a relatively consistent age-worthy style since 2001. The 2010 is the last vintage fully under the supervision of long-serving winemaker Pascal Madevon. Pascal left to join Don Triggs’ Culmina in early 2013, shortly after this vintage was bottled (following 18-20 months in French oak). Challenging conditions in 2010 are said to have been managed well, yielding a wine John Schreiner described as bright, firm, and generously textured (thanks to a blend centered on 67% Merlot). With the 2010 added to my six-year vertical, the 2004 is now available for consumption! Swirl VQA Store $50

Nk’Mip 2012 Mer’r’iym: The Osoyoos Indian Band’s well known winery added a super premium red blend to their portfolio as of the 2008 vintage, leading to the demise of their solid Qwam Qwmt (Reserve) Meritage. However, the Mer’r’iym Meritage has garnered plenty of praise of its own, coming from a winemaking team long experienced with big reds. The 2011 vintage was actually skipped over, making this the fourth release, and the first to cut Cabernet Sauvignon below one quarter of the blend: Merlot leads for 2012 with 59%, with 12% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc. The wine was released at the winery back in May 2013, but some of the approximately 450 cases produced only showed up in stores recently. BC Liquor Stores $50

Culmina 2012 Hypothesis: Only the second release from a powerhouse winery that leapt out of the gate two years ago with a 2011 that Anthony Gismondi called “the best first release I can remember from a local winery.” The 2012, from a superior vintage, should be even better – John Schreiner deemed it a solid 92+ points. Tasting the 2011 and 2012 side by side would be quite revealing, considering the major change in proportions: the formerly leading Cabernet Franc is now only 19%, with Merlot taking charge at 57% – while Cabernet Sauvignon remains the same at 24%. The wine has been available for a few months, but the new vintage is only now starting to replace the 2011 on store shelves. Swirl VQA Store $50