Collectibles: June 2015

Through a happy coincidence the majority of my cellar acquisitions this month consisted of Pinot Noir. Some came in recent winery club shipments while others were courtesy of a group order following the BC Wine Appreciation Society’s 10th Anniversary Gala festival tasting. These traditionally lighter-bodied wines seemed thematically appropriate given the warm summer weather.

Tantalus 2012 Old Vines Riesling: Along with a couple bottles of the rare and delicious Brut version of this legendary Riesling I also snagged the table wine following the BCWAS Gala. Described as focused and pure by the winery it certainly focuses one’s palate, with a relatively dry 6.3 grams of sugar and racy 10.8 grams of acidity. Stats like those (and 35-year-old vines) ensure it will last nearly forever in the cellar. Winery Direct $35

50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir: Each year that goes by the young vines north of Kelowna provide a little more complexity (and acreage) for Winemaker Grant Stanley. The sixty-one acre estate is already yielding 2,145 cases of Pinot Noir, and production will likely continue to increase as the vines mature. A recent opportunity to taste this wine (a blend of six clones) prompted an immediate purchase, given the impressive balance and fresh, clean palate. Swirl VQA Store $35

Meyer 2013 Reimer Pinot Noir: Along with a couple bottles of the new 2014 Rosé (already sold out), my most recent Wine Club shipment from Meyer included new vintages of the winery’s two single vineyard Pinot Noir. I had the opportunity to taste both at a recent winery dinner hosted by the BC Wine Appreciation Society. The Reimer Family Vineyard in Kelowna yielded only 180 cases this vintage, so few likely remain at the winery. Winery Direct $40

La Frenz 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir: Owner/Winemaker Jeff Martin was present in person at the BCWAS Gala; I made sure to add a few bottles of his to the group order afterwards to take advantage of the opportunity. Along with some consistently superb fortified dessert wines I bought this well respected Pinot Noir, a reserve selection from the winery’s Naramata Bench “Desperation Hill” vineyard. While an excellent ‘regular’ version of the wine sells for $23, this one is simply “more of everything” as John Schreiner put it in his 92-point review. Winery Direct $35

Meyer 2013 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir: In contrast to the fruit forward Reimer wine, the Okanagan Falls home vineyard has produced a darker, earthier, more spiced iteration of Pinot Noir. The wine was recently named Best Pinot Noir at the new Northern Lands Wine Competition in Edmonton. A larger production run of 500 cases should yield higher availability than the Reimer, but given Meyer’s growing popularity at home and in several countries abroad, even those bottles won’t be around for much longer. Winery Direct $40

Laughing Stock 2013 Pinot Noir: It’s been a few years since Winemaker David Enns produced a Pinot Noir (his sole vintages being 2004, 2006, and 2008). In the meantime the Enns’ have been developing their Osoyoos vineyard and crafting one of the country’s finest Syrah. The time finally came for a return to Pinot Noir, sourced from a small Naramata Bench vineyard. Only 124 cases were produced, and I was lucky enough to receive two bottles in my Preferred Share Wine Club shipment. Opening one revealed an intense, bold take on the variety, with 14.6% alcohol no less! Holding the second bottle for 3-4 years should be no problem. Winery Direct $32

Orofino 2012 Passion Pit Cabernet Sauvignon: My summer Collector’s Club case contained a number of juicy gems, including Scout Vineyard Riesling and Syrah, but the Cabernet was especially desirable. The whole winery team was present at the BCWAS Gala, pouring this one among several others, to great acclaim. With the wine offering exemplary intensity and richness, Orofino provides more evidence that the warm Similkameen Valley is the place to go for ripe Cabernet in BC. John Schreiner’s 92-point review sums it up nicely: “A tour de force.” Winery Direct $29

BCWAS Black Hills Vertical Tasting

Another momentous tenth anniversary event for the BC Wine Appreciation Society saw a sold-out crowd relish a ten-year vertical of Black Hills Winery’s iconic Nota Bene red blend this week. Winery President Glenn Fawcett visited Vancouver to lead the tasting and share in the enjoyment – to the extreme envy of his colleagues back in Oliver! The Black Hills wine library is reportedly quite small, and such extensive vertical tastings are extremely rare, so Glenn was just as excited as the attending aficionados. He even managed to dig up and generously contribute two bottles each of the rare 2004 and 2005 vintages to ensure the vertical’s ten-year goal was met.

While we sipped the winery’s charming Sauvignon-Semillon blend “Alibi”, Glenn provided a quick history. The creamy palate and well balanced lemon curd flavours in Alibi provided a nice backdrop for an introduction to Nota Bene. Black Hills’ original Black Sage Bench vineyard (an abandoned 34-acre property) was planted in 1996 with a focus on Bordeaux reds: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon (four clones), 40% Merlot (four clones), and 15% Cabernet Franc (two clones). From these vines the first Nota Bene vintage of 1,600 cases was made in 1999, and by 2003 a cult following had grown thanks to positive media coverage and fan visits to the original Quonset hut winery.

Glenn helped lead a group of investors in a friendly takeover in 2007 when founders Bob & Senka Tennant “retired” to the Naramata Bench. The Tennants now focus exclusively on Galician and Rhone whites at their small winery Terravista, having planted Canada’s first Albarino. Since the transition varietal Syrah and Viognier have been added to the Black Hills portfolio, while Nota Bene production has been capped at 3,300 cases annually and a second-label line has been devised. The Cellar Hand brand allows Winemaker Graham Pierce to select only the best barrels for Nota Bene, yet provides for a superb value entry-level red.

The talented pouring crew had managed to extract nearly 70 meaningful samples from the pairs of 2004 and 2005 bottles, and that’s where the tasting began. (The wines had all been decanted the previous day and then returned to bottle for pouring.) By 2004 the vines were in their ninth leaf, yielding sufficient fruit for 2,800 cases, originally suggested for consumption by 2009. Despite their age, both of those early vintages were still going strong, with violet and baking spices leading into a smooth, well balanced chocolaty palate in 2004. The more savoury 2005 showed off leather and dried fruits, with an elegant, spicy profile.

Working through the the next several vintages there emerged bright, fresh fruit character as the wines became more youthful. Even relatively old 2006 had plenty of life ahead of it with noticeable tannins still present amongst the vibrant flavours. I noted a personal favourite in the 2007, with a rich, ripe nose and dark, silky palate (also the highest alcohol at 14.7%). This was the same vintage Graham Pierce began his residency following the transfer of ownership, serving as co-winemaker that year alongside Senka. By 2008 Graham was in charge: this vintage was really showing off youthful, fruit forward aromas, followed by a creamy palate of chocolate with hints of black licorice.

In 2010 the blend included the highest proportion ever of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%); the subtle nose of that vintage yielded tobacco and sweet red fruits, with a lighter body and plenty of acidity to age. This was the same year the winery made the decision to cap production and commence rigorous barrel selections going forward, creating and benefiting the Cellar Hand label. A colour transition was apparent by 2011, in which the violet spectrum dominated. Despite the cool season there were no green notes evident in the nose of plums, nor in the spiced milk chocolate flavours. The exciting development that year was acquisition of a neighbouring 15-acre vineyard, originally planted in  the same year as the estate vineyard, with virtually the same clones and rootstock.

Although the grape ratios in Nota Bene have always followed the vineyard proportions that slightly favour Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 was one of two exceptions, with Merlot in the lead at 57% (1999 led with 64% Merlot). Despite its apparent youth, I found another favourite in this fresh and clean wine, possessing ripe tannins and all the classic (by now) Nota Bene notes of violets, cassis, and chocolate. There was a return to traditional form in 2013, when the lowest alcohol yet witnessed (13.7%) was also attained. This latest release, still available in select stores although sold out at the winery, was not nearly as chewy as expected, with notes of fresh berries and red licorice coming together nicely.

At the same time as this fall’s harvest the 2014 Nota Bene will also be bottled in preparation for release next spring. This year the winery added small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot to the vineyards, so future years will enjoy even greater complexity (and yet more challenging blending decisions). Glenn closed the tasting by requesting favourites from the assembled guests: the secret ballot showed 2006 in the lead, followed by 2008, 2009, and a 2010/2012 tie. Clearly those fans awaiting the 2014 release can look forward to several years of maturation in their cellars before the wine reaches its peak. Many thanks to Black Hills for their generosity and mutual excitement for this exciting event: best of luck in your 17th vintage!

Le Vieux Pin Foraged Dinner

Accomplished Oliver winery Le Vieux Pin has begun tenth anniversary celebrations this year. Since their first vintage in 2005, Le Vieux Pin has strived to produce wines that “capture the essence of French winemaking tradition, but with the fruit and character of the New World.” Initial forays (and success) with Pinot Noir later evolved into a Rhone-inspired focus that emphasizes Viognier and Syrah. All three varieties were present at a recent innovative pop-up dinner to mark a decade of accomplishments.

The winery partnered with Chef Robin Kort of Swallow Tail Culinary Adventures to present a foraged dinner prepared by talented Chef Jefferson Alvarez – I was particularly lucky to attend as a guest of the winery. Upon arrival in the “secret” Chinatown location patrons were greeted like old friends by winery GM Rasoul Salehi (and no doubt many were). Rasoul had personally assisted with foraging the North Shore and beyond for ingredients in the weeks leading up to the dinner. As we sat down to fresh-baked bread with goat butter and duck pate, he was on hand to pour a glass of Le Vieux Pin’s spectacular Pinot Noir Rosé, “Vaïla”.

Having recently returned from a weekend visit to the Okanagan that included a stop at Le Vieux Pin I was excited to enjoy Vaïla yet again, despite the presence of several new bottles in my own cellar. The Rosé has been a favourite of mine for years, and the clean, crisp, and dry 2014 vintage is an ideal expression of the style. We sipped the supremely refreshing wine – awash with strawberry-rhubarb and ripe peaches – as an equally mouth-watering Wild Salmonberry Gazpacho was served, topped with Pine-infused Farmhouse Cheese. The pink-orange-coloured gazpacho proved to be an excellent pairing and particularly delicious in its own right.

“Let me tell you a story about sturgeon” introduced the next course, as described in the creative menu. As Rasoul deftly poured 2013 “Ava” Viognier Roussanne Marsanne my wife and I considered the provenance of “sturgeon marrow”. Some quick research revealed the marrow is a delicacy of generations past, taken from the spinal cord of European sturgeon fish. Admittedly the texturally unique marrow was not on my personal highlights list, but the Ava provided for plenty of admiration (as it has for me since the wine’s inception). From 2013 Winemaker Severine Pinte produced a blend of 50% Viognier, 41% Roussanne, and 9% Marsanne, yielding perfumed aromas of apricot, candied pineapple, and baked vanilla.

A follow-up to the sturgeon was Seared Cat Tail, served with celeriac purée and a very flavourful scallop chip. The cat tail and rich purée were favourites, with the celeriac serving to augment the sweet floral character from the Viognier. Overall, the Ava’s dry, long-lived palate hints at serious complexity to come, with apricot pit and toasted almond notes that intensified the earthy flavours in one last spoonful of gazpacho as well.

Le Vieux Pin’s entry-level Syrah, the outstanding-value $29 Cuvée Violette, was present to provide an introduction to the winery’s extensive focus on the grape. Above the Violette there is also the Cuvée Classique, and the exceptional and powerful Equinoxe Syrah, neither of which should be missed. The 2013 Violette’s fragrant nose, with hints of spicy toast, proved a lovely match for Fire Morels with fiddle heads, ramps, and yolk sauce. The smoky, meaty character of the delicious mushrooms revealed the wine’s spicy notes hidden within a palate of mixed dark berries and chocolate. Although it could be cellared for the short term, the Violette is drinking quite well at present, with fresh acidity and delicate tannins that make it superb on its own or with a variety of foods.

Refills of Syrah were generously provided, at the expense of the winery team’s own dinners! Fraser Valley Duck Breast provided for another lovely pairing, smoked with Alder wood and served with huckleberry jus. As the meal wound down we surveyed a final creative course of “Cheese Honeycomb”, another new gustatory experience I could not have imagined. The dish consisted of a honeycomb-like lattice formed from what seemed to be flash-frozen cheese, light and ethereal, to satisfy and refresh one’s palate. It capped a memorable meal and treasured opportunity to celebrate a wonderful winery with many further years of success to come. My thanks to Le Vieux Pin and to Chefs Alvarez and Kort for a delightful experience!

Collectibles: May 2015

My most recent quarterly shipment from Moon Curser’s wine club brought exciting new red wines, some of which are exclusive to this adventurous Osoyoos winery. Well-made examples of Carménère, Touriga Nacional, and Tannat are evidence that Chris Tolley is pushing the boundaries of accepted "cool climate" viticulture in Canada's only official desert. Additional rarities from other wineries joined my collection this month to continue established verticals in some cases, and provide even greater cellar variety from more of our creative local winemakers.

Stag’s Hollow 2013 Grenache: After painstakingly sourcing and awaiting maturity of the necessary vineyards Winemaker Dwight Sick finally got to produce his first Grenache in 2012. This second vintage continues the trend of excellence, “making a case for more vines in the south Okanagan” according to Anthony Gismondi’s enthusiastic 91-point review. Seventy percent of the grapes came from Penticton’s West Bench, with the remainder sourced from an Osoyoos vineyard that also contributed 8% Syrah for a little added spice. Several months in third-fill French oak have ensured the bright red fruit “pops from the glass,” with up to five years of healthy vigour predicted in bottle. Only 100 cases will go fast via the winery’s club and Okanagan Falls tasting room. Swirl VQA Store $34

Carson 2013 Pinot Noir: Meyer Family Vineyards Proprietor JAK Meyer snapped up internationally-experienced Winemaker Chris Carson back in 2008, and Chris has been putting Meyer’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on the world stage since then. As a side project, Chris produces his own “garagiste” brand of Pinot Noir, making a few barrels when he finds the time. The first vintage was 2011, released last May, suggesting 2012 may have been skipped over (or kept close to the chest) in the twelve months since then. Anthony Gismondi recently had a taste of 2013 and declared it “pure, terroir-focused, and eminently drinkable” in his 90-point review. With a mere 264 cases produced, I was pleasantly surprised to find it on the shelf in Vancouver. Sutton Place Wine Merchant $44

Moon Curser 2013 Carménère: Under former label Twisted Tree, Chris & Beata Tolley produced a single varietal Carménère once, in 2008. Finally, in 2012, using the new Moon Curser nomenclature they were able to do so again, making a wine named Best of Category at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, and one that John Schreiner found to be “of remarkable intensity…(that) demands full-flavoured foods.” With 2013 second in a trio of generous vintages the quality was sufficient once again, and production was even increased from 192 cases to 315, as the winery has found themselves with a fan favourite in high demand. Winery Direct $43

Le Vieux Pin 2012 Syrah “Cuvée Classique”: Last month I got my hands on one of the few remaining bottles of iconic Equinoxe 2011 Syrah, and now find myself with a new vintage from a different location in the cherished LVP portfolio. The middle tier of what is now three distinct Syrah’s has recently been renamed “Cuvée Classique” to differentiate it from the “Cuvée Violette” at the entry level (and a superb value for $30). The new vintage takes advantage of the 2012 growing season to show off what the winery (and many reviewers) feel is a bounty of intense, savoury, wild fruit. The high fruit quality combined with the deft and subtle hand of Winemaker Severine Pinte has ensured a long life ahead that I’m particularly excited to execute and enjoy when the time comes! Swirl VQA Store $56

Moon Curser 2012 Touriga Nacional: Several years of planning came to fruition – literally – in 2011 when Moon Curser produced a varietal Touriga Nacional, the first and only one in Canada. The vines hit their fifth leaf in 2012, and the second vintage was harvested at a healthy 24.6 Brix, but only yielding 48 cases from the small, single vineyard block. The first vintage was a huge success, being named Best of Category at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships and taking home a gold medal at the National Wine Awards that fall. Given that the 2012 has enjoyed an additional year of barrel and bottle aging over the 2011 upon release it should be even more successful at present, but with many very good years ahead of it as well. Winery Direct $43

Orofino 2012 Beleza: Another excellent 2012 red to get excited about, Beleza is the signature blend from one of my favourite BC wineries. Owners John and Virginia Weber have partnered with their neighbours the Hendsbees to grow the Bordeaux red varieties included in Beleza. The 2012 includes 40% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus 10% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, from both vineyards. (The single varietal Hendsbee Vineyard Petit Verdot is a very special gem as well.) John Schreiner recently provided extensive praise in his 92-point review for the “powerhouse of almost Port-like fruit that creates a rich, intense mid-palate.” Swirl VQA Store $36

Moon Curser 2012 Dead of Night: Amongst the other finds in my recent Moon Curser Club shipment was this cherished blend of Syrah and Tannat, considered by the winery to be their top tier red. The Tolleys started growing the extremely rare (in Canada) Tannat grape many years ago, and even bottled some single varietal versions during the Twisted Tree era. The vines are now well established, and succeeding in the warm Osoyoos climate, even providing sufficient quantity of fruit to enable a return of the varietal wine later this year (from the same 2012 vintage). After fermenting and oak-aging the two varieties separately, 247 cases were bottled last April, giving it a solid year in bottle before release. It has already been named Best of Class at both the 2015 Pacific Rim Wine Competition and the All Canadian Wine Championships. Winery Direct $43

Black Hills 2013 Nota Bene: The newest vintage from one of BC’s most well-known icon reds – I made sure to pick up a bottle immediately, from the limited stock available to stores. The winery typically cuts off sales in short order after release, to ensure enough remains for cellar door sales (and their own wine club members). Winemaker Graham Pierce praised “another outstanding vintage,” apparently providing sufficient ripeness to facilitate a hefty 49% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, along with 40% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc. It was bottled back in September, but undoubtedly remains quite young. Several years in my rotating vertical will allow it time to mature, and give me the opportunity to open the 2007 in the meantime. Swirl VQA Store $58

Meyer Family Vineyards Dinner

The low-lying clouds didn’t hamper stunning views as the BC Wine Appreciation Society recently sat down to the sold-out Meyer Family Vineyards dinner at Seasons in the Park. Expansive windows in the private dining room provided guests with a one-of-a-kind lookout from Vancouver’s highest natural point. The location was apt given how readily Jak Meyer is making a name for himself as purveyor of some of BC’s most celebrated Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wines, produced by Winemaker Chris Carson from carefully selected vineyards, have received the highest accolades provincially and nationally in only a few short years.

It’s been nearly three years since the BCWAS visited Meyer Vineyards in Okanagan Falls during the Society’s 2012 Fall Bus Tour. That memorable visit is still mentioned given the enjoyable outdoor tasting, the generous hospitality, and the superb wines brought home by nearly everyone in attendance! Since that time the Meyer family have continued to fine tune their focused portfolio as their twenty acres of Okanagan Falls and Naramata Bench vineyards continue to mature. While concentrating on Burgundian varieties, Jak has allowed for small quantities of Gewürztraminer and Riesling (listed amusingly as “Other Wines” on the Meyer website). Most exciting has been the recent news that an upcoming sparkling wine is already on the lees!

The five-course meal began with one of those ‘other’ wines, as the newly released 2013 Gewürztraminer was paired with a trio of fresh oysters by Seasons’ Executive Chef Peter Isacu. Jak spent a moment introducing the wine, harvested from his McLean Creek Road home vineyard in Okanagan Falls, fermented with native yeast, and left on the fine lees for a few months before bottling last spring. A fresh cucumber and Granny Smith apple mignonette for the oysters provided fruit flavours that paired with the intense lychee character in the bottle-aged wine. Vegetarians enjoyed Roasted Yellow Beet Carpaccio while contemplating the Gewürztraminer’s rich tropical palate, which included roasted pineapple flavours and a lightly perfumed, honeyed finish.

Guests next had the opportunity to sample a new variety recently added to the Meyer portfolio, as we previewed the 2014 Riesling. Last year’s 2013 Riesling was the first vintage, from which a mere six barrels were obtained via a contracted Naramata vineyard. The wine will remain a small lot production, but serves to complement the Gewürztraminer in providing some lighter variety. Pacific Smoked Salmon Buckwheat Blini was the selected pairing, with capers, shaved red onions, and orange fennel salad. Vegetarians received a generous hummus platter, with grilled asparagus, artichokes, crostini, mixed nuts, caponata, and tart gherkins – nearly a meal in itself! The lively and nicely balanced Riesling provided perfect fresh flavours of lime, apple, and lemon curd to pair with both dishes.

The time soon came for more serious investigation of the winery’s raison d’être, as we received a pair of newly released 2013 Chardonnay from Meyer’s two estate vineyards. The McLean Creek Road Vineyard contains a steep, southerly aspect mix of gravel and sand, on which two independent blocks of Chardonnay are planted. The wine presented the favoured traditional characteristics of apple pie and butterscotch, with a soft texture and pleasing toasty caramel nose as it warmed in the glass. The McLean Creek Chardonnay comes with acclaimed provenance, with last year’s 2012 named Best in Class at the Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition, and the 2011 received a Platinum medal as top Chardonnay at the 2013 National Wine Awards of Canada.

The Chardonnay were served with ideal food pairings of Parmesan Crusted Scallop or Butternut Squash Ravioli in Tomato Cream Sauce. The scallops’ lemon beurre blanc and the ravioli’s creamy but tart rose sauce were particularly ideal with the slightly brighter Old Main Road Vineyard (“Tribute”) wine. This smaller Naramata Bench vineyard (where the winery was in fact originally planned) yielded 380 cases, compared to 480 from the McLean Creek Road site. The silt and clay vineyard’s northerly aspect helped to yield an additional gram of acidity versus the first wine in the pair, providing mouth-watering, lemony character following the appealing popcorn aromatics.

The Tribute Series Chardonnay is thus named because each year the Meyer family donates $5,000 to charity in tribute to an accomplished Canadian person or organization cited on the label. Tributes have ranged from the Emily Carr Institute to rodeo cowboy Kenny McLean to Paralympian Sonja Gaudet. In 2013 hockey legend Pat Quinn received the honour, thanks in large part to his long-time support for Canuck Place Children’s Hospice, the recipient of the most recent Tribute Series donation.

Enjoying the two Chardonnay side-by-side provided an illuminating rendering of vineyard expression. Both lots of grapes were harvested, (whole cluster) pressed, and fermented (in stainless steel) under identical conditions. In both cases the must was then transferred to French oak, of which 20% was new for McLean Creek and 33% new for Old Main Road. Natural malo-lactic fermentation took place while each wine spent ten months sur lees (without stirring) in oak. Each site’s unique characteristics, combined with minor differences in Brix and acidity at harvest, allow for the Meyers and Winemaker Chris to produce a real study of BC terroir.

What Meyer does for Chardonnay is repeated in the red wine domain, with the grape’s Burgundian partner Pinot Noir. The same small lot, single vineyard philosophy is followed, with the McLean Creek vineyard paired up against a contracted Kelowna property. Our fourth course of Eggplant Parmigiana or Duck Breast with Sour Cherry Sauce provided another opportunity to compare vineyards from the same 2013 vintage. Carrot puree, crispy kale, and a potato croquette on the side of each dish provided even more flavours for our ongoing culinary adventure.

The 2013 Reimer Vineyard Pinot Noir comes from a site in south Kelowna planted exclusively to the variety, with a mix of French clones. The 2013 harvest was a challenge for Pinot Noir producers due to a week of rain in September; as a result the decision was made to delay harvest and allow the grapes to thoroughly dry out. By mid-October conditions were much improved at Reimer Estate, and any rotten bunches were easily identifiable. After production similar to that of the Chardonnay (10 months French oak aging) the Reimer wine revealed an elegant violet colour in the glass, with a fruit-forward palate of cranberry and cherry touched by earthy character on the bright finish.

From the McLean Creek Road vineyard the same 2013 vintage was conveyed in a darker, spicier expression. Nearly triple the production quantity (500 cases) came from the home vineyard, but techniques remained similar, including the same proportion of 33% new French oak. A notable colour difference was apparent, with the McLean Creek wine leaning towards dark red brick. Cloves and baking spices on the nose led into an earthier, bolder palate suggested by Jak as more Burgundian in style. The wine was recently named Best Pinot Noir at the new Northern Lands Wine Competition in Edmonton.

A surprise third glass provided the opportunity to virtually accelerate the aging process when we received 2008 McLean Creek Pinot Noir. The wine’s first vintage came from the same year in which the Okanagan Falls vineyard had just been acquired by Meyer, prompting Jak to point out “they weren’t really our grapes.” With the seven-year-old wine now much darker in colour than its compatriots the nose presented rich and complex aromas, with tart red fruit and forest floor showing on the palate. In some glasses an interesting slightly oxidized quality was admittedly evident. The solid acidity and structure could ensure continued aging, and in fact the original tasting notes suggest an anticipated lifespan reaching until 2019.

A glass of Meyer’s approachable 2014 Rosé concluded our meal as individual Truffled Peccorino Cheese Plates were distributed. The primary contribution to the Rosé is Pinot Noir (85%), but an additional 15% Gewürztraminer has been added to provide even more fun-loving character, with the grapes coming from vineyards in Kaleden and Naramata. The aromatic blend of strawberry blossoms is appealing, and the off-dry palate of candied strawberries, ruby red grapefruit, and pink peaches should provide plenty of summer sipping opportunities. Only 220 cases were produced however, so once tasting room visitors discover it stocks will likely decline with rapidity!

Many thanks to the staff at Seasons in the Park for their hard work and delicious food, and to Jak & Janice Meyer and their team at Meyer Family Vineyards for sharing such exciting wines. It was a joy and honour to explore another one of BC’s finest wineries.

Collectibles: April 2015

Even with the approaching summer season and the call of whites and rosés, I still found plenty of cellar-worthy reds to dote over this month. With a couple of exceptions, all were relatively new releases too, keeping collectors piqued outside the traditional red seasons. A few favourites included a couple additions to cherished rotating vertical collections, meaning older vintages finally become fair game for consumption!

Eau Vivre Pinot Noir 2013: This Similkameen Valley star has significant provenance, as both the 2009 and 2010 vintages were awarded Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence in BC Wine. A bottle for the cellar became a necessity after it was revealed as my number one selection at the recent BC Wine Appreciation Society Blind Tasting (in which it was voted the overall crowd favourite). Considering only 600 cases were produced, as the winery’s flagship variety, and the “simply delicious” palate described by John Schreiner, it makes for an obvious collectible at a dynamite price. Swirl VQA Store $24

LaStella Allegretto Merlot 2012: Newly released for summer (and unlikely to last long) is one of Italian-inspired LaStella’s complex and coveted Merlot (the other being $100 Maestoso). Despite the iconic status of Maestoso, the own-rooted “Pie Franco” Allegretto from south-west Osoyoos is actually produced in lesser quantities: only 206 cases are available, while the most recent release of 2011 Maestoso saw 329 cases on the market. Needless to say it will be rare to find on store shelves, with Club/Society members and visitors to the Osoyoos winery likely to acquire most in short order; well curated VQA stores may have some. Winery Direct $70

Le Vieux Pin Equinoxe Syrah 2011: The sister winery to LaStella is focused on Syrah, recently expanding to three different styles at a range of price points. The winery’s Equinoxe tier of wines represent their penultimate reserve collection. The 2011 was released last fall and is now approaching end of vintage, not that 268 cases went very far to begin with. Several reviews on WineAlign emphasize the bright, elegant palate, well worthy of a gold medal at last year’s National Wine Awards. Even before release Anthony Gismondi was gushing about the wine’s fabulous character. Winery Direct $90

Burrowing Owl Athene 2012: A co-fermented blend of 53% Syrah and 47% Cabernet Sauvignon from a vintage generous to both varieties. The wine spent 21 months in a creative blend of 85% French, 10% American, and 5% Hungarian oak barrels before bottling last August and then several months of bottle age. The first few vintages of this wine (a versatile and beneficial blend that is growing in local popularity) were fairly hard to find, but lately it has been showing up in stores outside the winery. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $42

Le Vieux Pin Retouche 2012: Recalling the secretive historical practice of “Hermitaging” Bordeaux wines inspired Le Vieux Pin to do the same here, adding just enough Syrah “that it sits invisibly behind the Cabernet filling in the gaps.” In previous vintages that has equated to approximately 20% Syrah, 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, and similar proportions are likely this year. This is in contrast to Burrowing Owl’s even split that shines more light on the Syrah component. The resulting wine (a mere 61 cases) can be expected to exude youthful but ripe tannins, which I am more than happy to tame into elegance with some years in the cellar. Winery Direct $69

Perseus Select Lots Cabernet Franc 2013: This young Cabernet Franc was quite popular at the recent BC Wine Appreciation Society 10th Anniversary Gala. The 2012 vintage (from the Similkameen valley’s renowned Blind Creek Vineyard) received a silver medal at the National Wine Awards, but the 2013 comes from a different vineyard on the Okanagan’s Golden Mile Bench. Little else is known thus far about it, given limited release; but when a small allotment arrived at Swirl VQA Store I was happy to pick up a bottle for future assessment before it all disappeared. Winery Direct $30

Poplar Grove The Legacy 2010: Cool conditions in the 2010 growing season prompted Poplar Grove to implement aggressive crop thinning practices; the harvest was reduced from 210 tons to 80 tons! Production of the winery’s icon “The Legacy” was cut by 40%, down to just 300 cases, which are seeing particularly limited distribution. Fortunately I was able to continue my vertical collection by snagging one bottle directly from the winery. Evidence of intriguing vintage variation can be seen when comparing 2009 and 2010 vintages, as Merlot decreased from 56% to 33% while Malbec increased from 3% to a bountiful 24%, surpassing both Cabernets! Winery Direct $50

Church & State Quintessential 2011: The winery delayed release of the 2010 vintage – still bottle aging – to present their award-winning 2011 after it was deemed more approachable. In a very impressive showing, it won a prestigious gold medal from the British International Wine Challenge last year, the first time since 2008 any BC VQA wine has been awarded higher than silver at the IWC. Although it could be eagerly enjoyed at present, this bottle will join my vertical collection to “put some fat on” as per Anthony Gismondi’s 90-point review. It bumps out the 2006, meaning I finally get to crack open that well-aged gem! Swirl VQA Store $60

BC Wine Brunch In The Sun

The most beautiful weekend in Vancouver so far this year provided an ideal setting for last weekend’s wine club in the sun. With a new baby at home our friends are finding it easier to host others than head out for dinner, so they welcomed six of us for Sunday brunch. Their sun-soaked rooftop patio was the perfect venue on which to enjoy everyone’s culinary creativity and a range of BC wines covering the spectrum. New releases and aged delights provided plenty of pairing opportunities that pleasantly surprised even those who assembled each delicious dish.

After welcome Mimosas and some fortifying cheeses (having not yet reached the noon mark in the day) we kept up the sparkling sequence with Gray Monk’s newest 2011 Odyssey Rosé Brut. Homemade Cranberry Orange Scones had been freshly baked by the hors d’oeuvres team, finished with a rum vanilla glaze and served alongside cinnamon nutmeg butter. The cranberry flavours in the Brut synchronized well with the scones, and the crisp texture refreshed our buttery palates with additional hints of watermelon. The bubbly was complemented by brand new 2014 Rosé from Clos du Soleil, one of my personal favourites. This rarity – from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes – is surprisingly aromatic, with the latest vintage continuing to impress. The dry finish and earthy, strawberry-rhubarb flavours had us yearning for more cheeses as we considered the broad range of food pairings it can deliver.

A forecast temperature in the high teens had clearly provided warm weather inspiration: my own contribution included Blue Mountain 2006 Reserve Blanc de Blancs. While my wife and I nervously eyed the extended cooking time seemingly required for our appetizer course, yet another cork was popped with pleasure. The Blanc de Blancs is part of Blue Mountain’s new reserve sparkling program that sees extended sur lie aging. This particular bottle was disgorged as late as 2013, and I received it in my Priority Group shipment that fall. Two further years in bottle had not dulled the very clean, fresh profile, providing us with generous springtime citrus and a hint of brioche and caramel all wrapped up in very fine mousse.

Finally confident they were cooked through we served a pair of Baked Egg Baguettes: one rich in caramelized onions and mushrooms with herbs and Comte cheese, another imbued with vegan “chorizo” plus green onions, tomato, and cheddar. A bowl of homemade ketchup we’d simmered throughout the previous evening provided the fix that some need when it comes to eggs and cheese. Surprisingly great with the tart ketchup was Le Vieux Pin Cuvée Violette Syrah 2012, the winery’s new “entry-level” Syrah. The first vintage in 2011 added this sub-$30 gem to the winery’s bigger Cuvée Classique and flagship Equinoxe Syrah – although all three represent solid value for what they offer. The luscious Violette provided delicate leather, white pepper, and vanilla floral aromas that led into a juicy finish to complement the silky texture.

An unexpected entrée course perfectly suited to weekend brunch brought us hefty Banana Pancakes, heaped high with berry compote, freshly whipped cream, and the requisite rivers of maple syrup. The surprisingly perfect pairing was JoieFarm 2013 Muscat, a natural fit for the tart compote in particular. Despite the sweet maple syrup the Muscat wasn’t challenged thanks to a supremely well-balanced palate. The wine’s versatile character showed off Asian pears, yellow peach, and pineapple fruit with clean, floral aromas as well. No less enjoyable was Road 13 2012 Jackpot Viognier Roussanne Marsanne, which provided thought-provoking reflection on the complex and serious palate. Aromas of baked apple and popcorn were reminiscent of Chardonnay, but apricots and even a bit of cucumber were also mentioned. The rich texture and impressively long finish provided plenty of memories as we scooped up the remaining whipped cream.

The surprises continued with the final course, in which Beet Chocolate Ganache Cupcakes proved a worthy partner for Liquidity’s 2012 Merlot. Putting a little chill in this Okanagan Falls wine was an excellent choice when matching it with vanilla ice cream and fresh raspberries under the mid-day sun. The addition of 10% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon provided for a well-rounded, complex palate and some discussions about varietal and blended wines across the world. Despite a mere one gram of residual sugar, the Merlot excelled with near-perfect dark berry and chocolate flavours, plus an earthiness to match the beets.

Some of our wines represented new releases, but most were a short trip down memory lane: Blue Mountain’s 2008 Blanc de Blancs is coming this fall, the superb new 2013 Cuvée Violette was just released, most of Joie’s whites are on to 2014, and Liquidity’s 2013 Merlot is newly on scene. Recent grey skies notwithstanding, spring is here and summer is on the way, providing many opportunities for a look at new vintages over the coming months. Here’s to more patio weather!