March Wine Club: Back to Brunch

Although our group of wine and food fans has enjoyed quite a few epic dinner parties, it’s fun to change things up now and then and drink in the daylight. Once or twice a year we bring back the legendary wine brunch, a risky venture given its proclivity to lead into a “festive” afternoon and potentially regretful evening. However, for young parents it can be a chance to enjoy the full meal without an early departure for baby’s bedtime. Since our March meal was to be hosted by just such a couple, we gave into temptation and relished the opportunity for some non-traditional food pairings and lighter lunch-time wine styles.

Following an enthusiastically welcomed round of reception Mimosas we prepared for the much-cherished Hors D’oeuvres course, oftentimes the best opportunity for kitchen creativity. Those expectations were well met when the pair of chefs revealed their mouth-watering Pancake Sliders. Two versions were available for all tastes: one with fresh Ricotta and blueberry reduction, and another sporting Turkey sausage. The obvious introductory wine for a sunny spring morning was sparkling, with Unsworth Vineyards’ Charme De L’ile providing cleansing bubbles from a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Gris, and 20% Sauvignette. This Cowichan Valley Prosecco-style (non-vintage) gave off generous peach and hazelnut aromas, a crisp and fine mousse, and clean flavours of apple and linen with a touch of tasty yeastiness.

To help wash down any remaining sliders the hors d’oeuvres team was happy to open Black Widow’s crisp and dry 2014 Pinot Gris. From the Lancaster family’s meticulously tended Naramata Bench estate vineyard, the Gris had obviously enjoyed a brief period of skin contact to yield the blushing peach colour. The profile was similarly stone-fruit inspired, while the surprisingly dry palate and light tannins amped up the curiosity factor. Given time to warm slightly from its highly chilled introductory state we found a hint of flint amongst the white peach bunches, plus some lychee and Rainier cherries providing further complexity. The 2014 vintage is now sold out at the winery, but fans can expect newly released 2015 any day now, with even fresher fruit flavours ready for summer enjoyment.

Sitting down for the plated Appetizer course brought us another pair of wines, both from the same celebrated Similkameen winery. Robin Ridge’s 2013 Flicker Rosé and 2012 Pinot Noir were next in line for discussion alongside Baked Tomatoes with Herbed Eggs. The savoury appetizer was well-paired with the dry Rosé blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, offering aromas of honeyed and Balsamic-infused cranberries. The tart palate showed a bit more appealing Balsamic with crab apples to nicely match the ripe tomato. The Pinot Noir’s delicate earthy spice synched rigtht up with the fresh herbs amongst the eggs, plus a very well balanced and smooth palate offered ideal varietal character with bright red fruit flavours.

Pinot seemed the name of game going forward, with another iteration of Noir plus more juicy tomatoes in our Entree course. Our hosts had excitedly prepared an authentic Shakshuka of baked eggs in red pepper tomato sauce, topped with creamy nuggets of Feta cheese plus fresh parsley. JoieFarm’s 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir came boldly out of the gate with sharp and intense dark fruit from a mix of vineyards surrounding Penticton. The twelve best barrels were assembled for the “En Famille” selection, and extended bottle aging after eight months in oak has yielded silky smooth textures. Another Similkameen diversion of Orofino’s 2013 Scout Vineyard Riesling matched the tomato with a lovely burst of cleansing citrus fruit. One the nose some grassy petrol aromas mixed with apple, pear, and orange blossom, while the palate laid out juicy melons and lemon meringue pie for our enjoyment.

Having lovingly tended trays of rising dough my wife and I were naturally eager to present the day’s dessert course, fresh from the hosts’ oven and nearly overwhelming in aroma. The Zesty Citrus Buns couldn’t have been more brunch-appropriate, brushed with sweet orange glaze and hiding a citrus-infused cream-cheese filling. I was even more excited for an opportunity to open my sole full-sized bottle of Clos Du Soleil’s “Saturn” dessert wine, made in the spirit of France’s famous Sauternes. While normally found on retail shelves in 375ml sizes, the 2013 Saturn graces the winery’s tasting room in larger bottles for those seeking to impress a crowd. The intent was easily obtained when the heavenly aromas of honey and mandarin orange wafted from the bottle. I doubt a better pairing for the Citrus Buns could have been found, with the wine’s passionfruit and dried pineapple flavours bouncing around the tropics before a very pleasant fresh citrus pith finish.

The carefree afternoon included visits to some of the nearby Commercial Drive breweries, including group favourite Storm Brewing. The morning’s wines and well-crafted food dominated our flavourful memories however. It would seem another unintentional theme had emerged upon reflection, as three of the four courses featured the viticultural bounty of our local Similkameen Valley. The pleasing variety of wines that included Vancouver Island and the Naramata Bench was admirable as well, providing inspiration for the inevitable brunches to come. I can only hope for an aged example of Saturn to share one lucky day in the future.

BCWAS Covert Farms Tasting

In a return to form after a year of festival-style events and dinners, the BC Wine Appreciation Society sat down for a portfolio tasting of a single winery this month, hosting Derek Uhlemann from Covert Farms Family Estate. As winery Sales Manager (and Farm Chef) Derek is well versed in the full range of wines available from the Covert family’s 25-acre organic vineyard and namesake winery at McIntyre Bluff. Derek’s digging in the cellar provided a sold-out crowd with the opportunity to taste aged examples as well as brand new barrel samples.

The youthful 2015 vintage was first out of the gate with a Sparkling Zinfandel, a crisp naturally fermented creation that carries the Méthode Ancestrale nomenclature. As Derek explained, the low-Brix, trimmed shoulders from maturing Zinfandel clusters were put to use making a small lot of 9.9% alcohol bubbly, and guests got a chance to relish the bright cranberry raspberry results. The sparkling provided a good backdrop for Derek’s historical recollection of the more than half-century-old homestead founded by California tomato farmer George Covert. George’s grandson Gene and his wife Shelly now manage a comprehensive farm that spans 650 organically farmed acres.

Although the 1970s and ‘80s saw Covert fostering nearly two hundred acres of hybrid grapes to yield “unremarkable ‘Chateau Okanagan River Channel’ wines,” today is a much different story. Gone is the “White Diamond” in favour of much more exotic (and palatable) white varieties such as Semillon, Viognier, and Roussanne. Thanks to Derek’s cellar sleuthing, there was the opportunity to enjoy a four year vertical of the Amicitia White blend following the newest 2014 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon. The vineyard’s pure sand bench yields a mineral and citrus presentation of Sauvignon Blanc; blending in 20% Semillon provides body that complements the fresh and tart, traditional grassy character.

A small percentage of both Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc is included in the Amicitia White but this rare blend is predominantly Rhone grapes, with Roussanne unexpectedly leading the way over and above Viognier’s smaller contribution. Although a handful of 2007 and 2009 Amicitia was discovered at the winery, only a batch of unlabelled 2008 made it through the years in drinkable condition. As a result a comparison was available for a relatively aged version against the more recent 2012-2014 vintages. Oxidative, Sherry-like character was readily apparent in the golden, straw-coloured older wine, with an intensely flavoured, viscous palate present upon tasting. The younger vintages showed Roussanne’s strong influence, presenting stone fruit flavours of yellow peach amongst hints of greenery and even petrol, with mild tannins and a similar generous body.

Before delving into several red bottle and barrel samples there was a moment to appreciate the 2014 Rosé, a blend of 76% Merlot, 22% Pinot Noir, and 2% aged Syrah. The small component of Syrah comes from the 2013 vintage to add additional complexity to the wine, well within allowable blending boundaries. The same long finish offered by the whites is present in the Rosé’s food friendly palate, with leafy red fruit flavours of wild strawberry. More of that same Syrah is found in the 2013 “MDC”, a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Zinfandel, and 21% Syrah. The jammy, rich palate, and peppery, toasted cocoa flavours seem like a superb tribute to Winemaker Gene’s late father, Michael Dunham Covert, a Cabernet aficionado for whom the wine is named.

One red blend isn’t enough for Covert Farms however (and in fact neither is two – they also produce a Cabernet-Petit Verdot – “The Bluff”). The Amicitia Red further demonstrates the range of grapes grown in just twenty-five acres, this time assembled into a traditional Bordeaux configuration. The 2013 vintage poured reflected an increase in Merlot now that the winery produces varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, bringing together 52% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot. The result is a nicely balanced, fruit forward, and understandably complex medley of juicy fruit.

A three-year selection of barrel samples awaited the conclusion of the tasting: Derek had brought everything from the newly bottled 2013 Grand Reserve Zinfandel to the fledgling 2015 Grand Reserve Merlot, a blockbuster of nutty blueberry jam just beginning a long slumber in used French oak. The ripe and rich Zinfandel follows up the inaugural 2012 in the stylishly-labelled Grand Reserve series, and should prove very popular upon its September release to the growing waiting list. The parallel series of Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon skipped 2013 and will follow its first vintage with the sophisticated 2014 sample we tasted, showing off archetypal black currant and eucalyptus notes from an elegant texture with impressive potential.

The Society’s much appreciated volunteer pouring crew was reminded of the work involved in clearing several hundred glasses as the evening wrapped up, it having been several months since the last sit-down event of this magnitude. Following a few final sips over order forms, guests left expressing their gratitude to Derek for sharing these exciting wines so generously. Covert Farms’ inventory was surely shrinking just as their waiting list was growing by the end of this tasting!

VanWineFest 2016: BC Wine Report – Part II

An earlier post detailing this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival focused on the four BC wineries sharing their wares for the first time. With 22 additional local wineries (and one superb Sakemaker) on hand as well, there was more than enough to keep my attention for three days. Dozens of veteran winery principals from across BC were equally enthusiastic as those pouring for their first time. Given the alphabetical organization I generally explored our local wineries just as they were laid out, and found everything from Averill Creek to Wayne Gretzky Estates.

My first sample of the entire Festival came from Andy Johnston’s Averill Creek, where Pinot Noir is king in Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley. The 2012 being shown was impressively clean and pure – with its still-upcoming release status testimony to Andy’s patience as he continues to let the 2011 shine. I came back more than once too for a glass of apples and creamy raspberry scones in the 2010 Brut, another very charming preview. Three tables down, Burrowing Owl owner Chris Wyse had a bevy of rich reds on hand, plus the 2014 vintage of his winery’s famed Pinot Gris. Age-worthy 2012 Athene (Cab-Syrah) and 2012 Meritage impressed just as much as dark and ripe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon and surprisingly silky 2013 Cabernet Franc. Steps away, the Triggs family was present in force to pour the wines from their blossoming Culmina project, while Winemaker Pascal Madevon discussed the winery’s new varietal reds in detail. The dry and focused 2014 Decora Riesling and toasty, citrus-mineral 2013 Dilemma Chardonnay complemented the complex and collectible small lots of 2013 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (168 and 96 cases respectively).

Okanagan Crush Pad’s Chief Winemaker Matt Dumayne was pouring the Summerland winery’s home label Haywire. The likeable traditional method sparkling “The Bub” 2013 was available alongside organic 2014 Pinot Gris and the fascinating Free Form 2014, a naturally-fermented blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Eight months of skin contact and full malolactic fermentation without any sulphur made this risky venture into a “textural sensation” of dry citrus flavours and fine tannins. Behind Haywire Head Winemaker Rob Summers had a selection of Hester Creek’s wine on hand, showing the benefits of increasing oak integration in his bottle-aging 2012 reds. Time in bottle has given the ripe fruit an opportunity to emerge in smooth Reserve Cabernet Franc as well as in brown-sugar-spiced icon blend The Judge. The new 2015 Trebbiano continues the grape’s Golden Mile success story, where 48-year-old vines consistently produce refreshing fragrances and long, soft fruit flavours.

Nearby, the wines of Meyer Family Vineyards provided a study in 2014 single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir courtesy of Winemaker Chris Carson. Kelowna’s Reimer vineyard yielded a bright, youthful red fruit Pinot Noir and Naramata’s Old Main Road vineyard offered creamy Chardonnay with fresh tree fruit flavours. From the Okanagan Falls home vineyard on McLean Creek Road, young, mineral-driven Chardonnay and rich, dark fruit Pinot Noir will grow even better with age if given the chance. Across the aisle Lauren Skinner and the team from Painted Rock had the rare and special 2014 Chardonnay along with elegant, complex 2014 Rosé – a blend of red Bordeaux grapes. Lauren was leading the charge at her family’s sixth consecutive Festival appearance, showcasing the newest 2013 reds: suave Syrah, brooding Merlot, and the stellar Red Icon beckoned me daily.

Well within reach the synchronized squad at Poplar Grove was where Winemaker Stefan Arnason could be found with the winery’s champions. Newly-bottled, ever-popular Pinot Gris gushed fresh stone-fruit, and similarly modern Blanc de Noirs blended big reds to yield candied pink grapefruit aromas and earthy red fruit flavours. The allure of sold-out 2011 The Legacy offered up a perfumed leather nose before a smooth spicy finish; patience is a necessity for those awaiting the bottle-aging 2012. Neighbouring tablemate Tony Stewart was offering the expression of 2014 at Quails’ Gate, introduced by uncommon Chenin Blanc, refreshing one’s palate with crisp textures and a tangy finish. The Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay made subtle use of oak in a creamy, toasty drop delivering a bright finish, while textbook Reserve Pinot Noir displayed perfect balance surrounding cloves and red fruit. Turning around brought the Summerhill smile of CEO Ezra Cipes and the exciting new Blanc de Franc 2011: sparkling Cabernet Franc repeatedly enchanted me with fresh fragrant berries and a fabulously smooth, clean mousse.

The final line of BC wine was home to Thornhaven Winemaker Jason Fraser, revitalizing guests with 2014 Brooklyn’s Blend, Summerland’s unique merger of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. This clean and summery field blend was took on the new name in honour of the Fraser family’s newest addition. Apart from the winery’s definitive Gewürztraminer I was also taken with the elegant 2013 Syrah, thanks to a silky, earthen palate and well-tuned balance following the Platinum-winning 2012. It was only logical to next make time for Harry McWatters, still working his magic on the Black Sage Bench at TIME Estate Winery. The pleasingly approachable 2012 Red Meritage was nicely softened after a couple years in bottle, and the charmingly textured 2014 White Meritage provided another measure of the creamy character I’ve enjoyed in the past. A jump to the right found Tinhorn Creek Winemaker Andrew Windsor proud papa to barrel-sampled 2014 reserve Chardonnay. Andrew’s first vintage at Tinhorn yielded such divine wine it demanded a new addition to the Oldfield Series tier. The necessity was obvious upon tasting the round, rich, creamy caramel behind the newly deployed “Golden Mile Bench” sub-appellation label.

The “big three” beverage companies were present as well, but I found myself drawn primarily to the smaller independent wineries. That being said, it was good to see that parent company Peller had arranged for Sandhill Master Winemaker Howard Soon to give the international guests a little something to think about with 2012 Small Lots Sangiovese and Italian-inspired red blend “Three”. Mark Anthony Group’s Mission Hill rarely misses a Wine Festival, and this year freshly appointed Head Winemaker Darryl Brooker was present to pour a gamut of rarities from the new, high-end Terroir Collection. Constellation Brands’ Black Sage Vineyard was showing off an impressively fragrant 2013 Zinfandel, while the company’s See Ya Later Ranch property poured the peppery 2013 Rover Shiraz. The conglomerate’s Jackson-Triggs “Sunrock” brand had more Zinfandel blended with Shiraz in the “Illumina”, as well as a two-vintage comparison of the well-respected Cabernet Sauvignon (2012 & 2013).

The only session in the Tasting Room for which I was absent was the final evening on Saturday, which generally provides the most entertaining people-watching if anything. Of course that final session is also where the next year’s theme region is announced, so I was thrilled to hear the good news in short order over social media: the 2017 Festival will feature Canada as theme region, just as our nation begins celebrating its sesquicentennial. My very pleasant surprise at the news came about in large part due to earlier discussions with members of the organizing committee, who had suggested to me that certain challenges precluded such a possibility. Apparently the difficulties were overcome through what must have been hard work and delicate negotiations. The growing ranks of Canadian wine aficionados worldwide must be excited at the opportunities that will come about in Vancouver next spring – I know I’ll be first in line for tickets!

VanWineFest 2016: BC Wine Report – Part I

The Vancouver International Wine Festival is without a doubt the local vinicultural highlight of the year. This year’s Festival marked the 38th iteration of this landmark event, bringing together hundreds of international delegates from fourteen countries – including theme region Italy – to share their love for wine with 25,000 guests. I was extremely happy to attend several events, including five visits over three days to the massive Festival Tasting Room, where principals from 155 wineries gave voice to their respective stories over a glass.

Second in volume to each year’s theme region are always our own local wineries, reaching near-record representation this year with twenty-six grape wineries, as well as Vancouver’s own Artisan SakeMaker. Presence at the Festival does not come cheap given the logistical costs involved, so it is a joy each year to see many friendly faces from British Columbia’s great variety of wineries. Amongst the twenty-six tables, the BC contingent was populated by a dozen congregations returning from last year, and most excitedly, four wineries new to the Festival entirely. Bookended by the educational Wines of British Columbia booth promoting the province as a whole, the expansive BC section of the Tasting Room was kept abuzz throughout the Festival.

While certain to expand my palate exploring the wines of the world I repeatedly visited the many BC wineries present and pouring, being particularly sure not to miss the new participants. Veteran local winemaker Michael Bartier and his brother Don were present to share their Bartier Bros. bottles, fresh from opening their Oliver tasting room last fall. A trio of youthful 2013 reds were on hand alongside fresh and tropical 2014 Gewürztraminer and the clean lemon curd flavours of 2013 Semillon. Smooth, approachable textures and ripe fruit flavours were universal across varietal Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah; all ready for current consumption but with the elegance to age gracefully.

Nearby, Sant Gill and his nephew Navi were to be found proudly pouring their Gold Hill wines at the Festival for the first time. After years growing fruit in the Golden Mile, Sant, with his brother Gurbachan founded Gold Hill in 2009, the same vintage for which their young winery was recognized with a Lieutenant Governor’s Award. That famous 2009 Cabernet Franc certainly has a worthy successor in the beautifully aromatic 2013 I sampled – and immediately sought out for purchase. Also on hand were exciting varietal Malbec, new 2014 Cabernet Merlot, 2012 Meritage, 2014 Chardonnay and the off-dry 2014 “Charisma White” blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier, Sauvignon blanc, and Gewürztraminer.

Two other BC wineries new to the Festival included Kamloops’ first winery, Harper’s Trail, plus new Naramata Bench label Tightrope. General Manager Tracy Roche brought a series of estate-grown wines from Harper’s Trail, including cool, clean, and elegant Cabernet Franc 2013, said to evoke impressions of the Loire Valley. The intensely fruit forward but pleasantly dry 2014 Merlot comes from the Bartier brothers’ Cerqueira Vineyard on Black Sage Bench, while 2013 Pinot Gris and a pair of expressive 2013 Riesling (including Late Harvest) are all Kamloops.

Tightrope was represented by owners Graham and Lyndsay O’Rourke, a duo of experienced local viticulturist and winemaker, respectively, now focusing exclusively on their promising winery and 10-acre Fleet Road vineyard. The O’Rourke’s wines have been garnering national attention, and I was pleased to sample the wonderfully balanced, crisp 2014 Pinot Gris, lusciously textured 2014 Viognier, smooth and delicate 2013 Pinot Noir, and the elegant new white-peppered 2014 Syrah.

I went on to visit nearly every table in the local contingent, while keeping matters fresh by circulating to Italy and back via the other dozen countries represented in the room. Greeting and meeting the many winemakers and proprietors pouring their very own wines was an energizing experience, as always. The opportunity to sample a range of new local highlights, let alone international icons and rarities, kept me fully engrossed over three days of concentrated focus. I offer my many thanks to the Festival and partner Heth PR for facilitating media accreditation to enable this exciting tour of the wine world all in one place! My summary and impressions of the remaining resident wines and wineries follows in Part II.

Collectibles: February 2016

With the holiday shopping (and drinking) season still hanging over our heads few new wine releases are usually forthcoming in the first couple months of the year. I myself have introduced only a handful of new bottles into my cellar since December, hence no January Collectibles entry. A couple choice selections from a trip to Osoyoos over New Year’s with the BC Wine Appreciation Society are included this month, along with some new wines from the same neighbourhood thanks to a recent Wine Club shipment from Moon Curser.

Van Westen 2014 “VD” Pinot Noir: Robert Van Westen and his Pinot Noir partner Tom DiBello maintain a good sense of humour, evident not only by the cheeky name of their collaboration, but in their decision to release it annually on Valentine’s Day. This year marks the fourth vintage for the small lot specialty very popular amongst those in the know on Rob’s mailing list. The Naramata vineyard yields a rather intense wine due to additional hang time necessitated by the north-facing tilt: Rob mentions baking spice, savoury meatiness, and dark chocolate characteristics to accompany the fruit flavours. A relatively bountiful 135 cases represents the largest production yet, and a welcome increase from last year’s miniscule two barrels (51 cases). Winery Direct $40

SpierHead 2014 Pinot Noir Cuvée: This young Kelowna winery has gotten into Pinot Noir in a big way, with four different new releases making their way to market. Always savvy marketers, SpierHead sent review samples broadly to the local community, ensuring strong publicity for wines they had every reason about which to be confident. The flagship Cuvée represents the best barrels, blended to produce 274 cases from five clones across the winery’s vineyards, and then aged for ten months in French oak. It has already garnered praise for being “rich in complexity and texture,” in addition to “concentrated and seductive,” with much potential to “relax and grow in the bottle over the next two to three years.”  Sutton Place Wine Merchant $41

Moon Curser 2013 Petit Verdot: This adventurous Osoyoos winery has been producing varietal Petit Verdot for a few years, one of only a small handful of local ventures doing so. It’s always a small lot release, this time only 246 cases from the Osoyoos East Bench, and part of the reserve “Contraband Series”. Interestingly, only one third of the wine was exposed to any expressive oak (new French in this case), with the remainder fermented in steel and then aged in neutral barrels for a year. The early harvest of mature grapes (24.5 Brix by October 16th) and restraint in the cellar should yield fruit forward characteristics, with the winery suggesting it is more “supple and generous” than previous vintages. Winery Direct $32

Cassini 2011 The Godfather: After a few years in operation and growing success, Proprietor Adrian Cassini introduced an icon red blend in the form of “The Godfather”. The new 2011 is only the second vintage, reflecting the highly respectable increased emphasis on bottle aging Adrian has put in place recently. In the case of The Godfather, time in bottle will most certainly have helped settle it after 24 months in 100% new French oak! The wine is a blend of the best barrels and varieties from the cellar, and doesn’t follow a predictable formula, this year bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) and Cabernet Franc (14%) to yield a mere 150 cases. Seeing as The Godfather is rarely seen outside the winery tasting room, I took advantage of the New Year’s trip to pick up this rarity. Winery Direct $70

Moon Curser 2013 Border Vines: Another brand new release included in my latest club shipment, the Border Vines is Moon Curser’s prevalent (1,710 cases) red blend. In past years the inclusion of Carménère has rounded out the six-grape blend, complementing the more traditional Cabernets, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot – putting it a step above others. However, it seems Cabernet Franc didn’t fit the bill for 2013, as it is notably absent this year, making for 32% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 18% Petit Verdot, and 4% Carménère. It’s certainly surprising to see so much Petit Verdot, especially from a winery that also bottles a straight varietal of the grape; Chris Tolley always keeps things interesting! I added the new vintage to my rotating vertical of this little gem, pushing the 2009 to the top of the queue for upcoming consumption; fortunately it should be well preserved under screwcap. Winery Direct $27

Nk’Mip 2013 Mer’r’iym Meritage: While the 2012 vintage of Nk’Mip’s relatively new icon red blend is still listed online (and sold out to boot), the 2013 was found in generous quantities at the Osoyoos tasting room during my visit over New Year’s. The big bold red from some of the Okanagan’s southernmost vineyards is built to age elegantly, and now that I have the 2013 I can finally open my inaugural 2008 to make room in the rotating vertical I keep. Surprisingly, Nk’Mip elected on a blend dominated by three quarters Merlot, despite the beneficial vintage conditions that would imply Cabernet Sauvignon, in this case bringing up the rear at only 12%, with 7% Malbec, and 5% Cabernet Franc to balance the profile. Regardless, it should age just fine (given suggestions regarding past vintages) as I await the 2018 vintage release that bumps this one into consumption status. Winery Direct $50

Osoyoos Larose 2012 Le Grand Vin: Despite just picking up the 2011 vintage in December, the new 2012 has already been spotted on store shelves. As John Schreiner pointed out at the end of last year, reduced production quantities from 2010 and 2011 meant the 2012 was released early despite the potential benefits of bottle aging. This newest release comes just as news has emerged that new Winemaker Mathieu Mercier is himself being replaced by Jean-Marc Enixon, in a friendly staff rotation by estate owner Groupe Taillan. Mathieu would have aged and blended the 2012 after Pascal Madevon departed in early 2013. He settled on a final configuration of 50% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec that charmed Schreiner into a 94-point score (and prompted Anthony Gismondi to declare it “one of the best young Osoyoos Larose we have tasted”). Swirl VQA Store $45

February Wine Club: Not That Colbert

My favourite aspect of our monthly wine club is the fact that it encourages people to experiment in the kitchen to find the best food pairings. This month one of our regular couples was forced to cancel on short notice, but some highly enthusiastic pinch hitters joined us in their absence. Maybe it was the presence of new members to impress, or maybe inspiration was in particular abundance this month, but everyone brought their A-game! There were plenty of new gourmet dishes and exciting wines to share.

As we awaited the arrival of all eight diners we noshed on warm hors d’oeuvres from the oven, paired with a wine duo sure to please any palate. The first course chefs had brought us Miso-glazed Baked Tofu with Sesame Seeds, and Fried Polenta Rounds with Gruyere & Wild Mushrooms. We had the joy of first sipping from a wine I have foolishly not enjoyed in some time – Hester Creek’s unique varietal Trebbiano. The forty-year-old vines on the Golden Mile Bench produced 1,000 cases in 2014 of a wine that stands alone in Canada. The lip-smacking refreshment of last spring’s release was still very much a joy to drink at the same time the 2015 is likely being bottled. The perfumed nose of dried flowers and tropical fruits opened up into a palate of subtle fresh stone fruit and candied pineapple. I was reminded that keeping a few bottles on hand as a summer staple this year will be wise.

While the crisp Trebbiano helped cut through the rich polenta rounds it was Haywire’s 2012 Canyonview Pinot Noir that was expected to coordinate best with the mushrooms and cheese. This follow-up to the Lt. Governor’s Award-winning 2011 vintage comes from Summerland grapes that spent time in used oak barrels and concrete eggs. It yielded generous varietal character on the earthy nose, and the pleasingly smooth palate presented cranberry and cherry flavours that reminded some guests of tasty fruit gummies. The slightly smoky character actually worked well with the baked tofu, which unexpectedly encouraged the wine to express darker tropical fruit flavours.

With everyone gathered around the table, our appetizer course was presented, courtesy of one particularly intrepid guest who carried a full crock pot across town in a taxi! The devoted chef had brought us an incredibly flavourful eggplant soup modelled after the “Aubergine Dream” served at a friend’s Souppe Shoppe in Toronto. Roasted eggplant and mushrooms were topped with double-smoked bacon bits and mushroom chips, paired with new Synchromesh 2014 Cabernet Franc. Okanagan Falls Winemaker Alan Dickinson worked with the Cachola family to nurture a small vineyard outside Oliver, from which this bright and punchy wine came to us. The savoury nose of herbs and leather worked very well alongside the soup, and the palate proved surprisingly smooth for such a young wine, with a fruit-forward influence and tart cherry flavours.

For the entree course I was inspired yet again by BC Liquor Stores’ TASTE Magazine, having recalled a creative take on traditional lasagna spotted in last Fall’s issue. The Beet & Cheddar Lasagna turned out very well, with layers of beets, chard, whole wheat pasta, and a tangy aged cheddar béchamel sauce topped with a crispy pistachio crumble. With such a hearty, earthy dish on offer I turned to a big, aged red with expected intensity to match. The CedarCreek 2006 Platinum Meritage “Colbert Edition” was a unique small lot (144 cases) produced when the winery acquired four barrels of rare Sylvain French oak from a 350-year-old tree. Supposedly the trees in the forest of Bertrange were planted under the supervision of Louis the Fourteenth’s Finance Minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert. The wine is not an homage to talented comedian and television host Stephen Colbert (who is in fact of Irish ancestry).

Decanted at the beginning of the meal, the Meritage was ready to reveal the results of nine years aging on the blend of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (31%), Malbec (18%), Cabernet Franc (9%) and Petit Verdot (2%) – which spent 21 months in those Colbert barrels. We smelled toasted vanilla, milk chocolate, and the meaty notes of “really good steak,” plus a touch of residual volatile acidity. The palate was velvety smooth with a lively tart finish, and showing intense flavours of blueberry compote along with some savoury olives and a hint of the aforementioned steak’s raw bloodiness. Not including the contents of some vertical collections, the Colbert Meritage was one of the oldest BC wines in my collection, and it was a joy to share it with good friends over great food.

Full of beets we settled back to see what the dessert team had brought us, hiding beneath a tea towel before the final reveal. Individual mason jar cheesecakes yielded applause, particularly when the details were presented: the savoury Blue Cheese Cheesecakes were topped with Blueberry Port Compote and Thyme Honey Graham Cracker Crumble. The chefs were apparently feeling as nostalgic as I was, given the 2005 Hillside Mosaic they were willing to open. In addition, their recent day-trip to Abbotsford had included a visit to growing new winery Singletree, from where a bottle of 2013 Fraser Valley Siegerrebe was obtained. The Siegerrebe’s sweetly scented nose of honey and lychee fruit was a superb pairing for the cheesecake, while the Mosaic offered darker aged character. Suggestions of tomatoes and olives prompted “pizza” as the aromatic descriptor of choice, while “funky” maple-caramelized vegetables swirled about the spicy palate.

Satisfaction and mutual compliments were widespread as we concluded the evening; it was a particularly innovative meal with some rare wines and inspired pairings as well. We enjoyed reds from an expansive range of ten vintages, let alone the fresh and exciting whites, giving us all many wonderful memories and even further inspiration for future gatherings.

January Wine Club: Happily Healthy

It actually isn’t too uncommon for the members of our wine club to seemingly unconsciously coordinate. Despite the very nature of the club being one of surprise, our food and wine choices synchronize more often than expected. I suppose after several years of monthly dinners we’ve clearly developed corresponding tastes and styles. This month’s gathering marked another episode in harmony when the entire meal – with no prior organization – was discovered to be a flavourful, nearly vegan feast – embarrassingly nutritious but equally delicious.

We rapidly got settled upon arriving by starting with ramekins of warm Vegetable Barley Soup as we admired the chefs’ tottering toddler – mere days into the world of walking. The rich and remarkably creamy soup had spent hours slow-cooking to warm our spirits, an easy feat when the exciting wine pairings were revealed. From Stoneboat Vineyards we opened the newest vintage of one of south Okanagan’s finest Pinot Noir. The 2012 expressed spiced red berries and nuts on the nose, with a generous, smooth palate of fruit flavours, plus what one guest suggested was caramelized beets. The wine’s clean finish provided superb refreshment alongside the thick soup.

A second introductory wine came from a personal darling of mine: Le Vieux Pin is quickly mastering red and white Rhone varieties at their Oliver winery. The attractive Cuvée Violette Syrah serves as an introduction to Winemaker Severine Pinte’s broad exploration of the grape’s potential in BC. The 2013 we enjoyed is sold out at the winery, with a new vintage to come this spring, but fortunately our friends found at least one bottle locally. A complex bouquet with cedar, vanilla, and forest aromas immediately impressed, while the mild tannins made for easy youthful enjoyment. However, we were sure to notice sufficient body and acidity to last – should one keep their hands off it after tasting the mouth-watering milk chocolate cherry flavours. Like the Pinot Noir, that bright, fresh character made a good foil for the viscous soup.

Following last month’s soft pretzel hors d’oeuvres my wife and I were assigned sit-down appetizer duty for this installment. I turned once again to BC Liquor Stores’ TASTE Magazine and found an appealing Mixed Grain & Squash Salad that piqued my palate and triggered an inspired search of the cellar. I couldn’t help but present a pair of gems from Stag’s Hollow, particularly once I found a 2007 Renaissance Merlot calling out for consumption. With the salad and decorative kale chips artfully presented we first served the coordinating 2013 Viognier Marsanne, already double decanted back into bottle. This adventurous orange wine is an extreme rarity, with only 35 cases produced after a year in used Acacia wood. We gushed over the intense apricot character and mushroom hints, while the mild tannin paired perfectly with the (optional) blue cheese sprinkled atop the salad.

Following some time in the decanter the Renaissance Merlot was also heartily enjoyed, presenting an intoxicating nose of aged blueberries upon first impression. A bit of leather on the relatively austere palate gave way to a very smooth texture that celebrated several years in bottle. That mature character brought out the smokiness in the kale chips, providing another delightful food pairing for the dish. Back in 2010 Anthony Gismondi suggested 2-4 more years in bottle would help the Merlot really shine, but more than five years later it’s still going strong and provided another impressive introduction to the evening.

By the time our hosts served the entrée course our inadvertent motif had become obvious: Squash, Apple, & Fennel Galette included a vegan crust made with coconut oil, accessorized by fresh Spinach Salad with avocado, citrus, and fried tofu. The wine pairings included a duo of creative red blends that favoured lighter red varieties. The JoieFarm 2013 PTG provided a blend of 55% Gamay and 45% Pinot Noir from four Naramata and Summerland vineyards. Smooth and fruit forward on the palate we detected in it underlying notes of earthy, meaty character with bacon hints that complemented the crispy, savoury tofu. From Creston’s Baillie-Grohman we also enjoyed the 2014 Récolte Rouge, a somewhat mysterious blend of most likely Pinot Noir with Merlot and Cabernet Franc backing. More smoked meat plus sweet jerk flavours emerged alongside the Galette, and the nice soft texture made it easily quaffable.

Dessert provided a few guilty pleasures in which to indulge after such a responsible meal, but yielded another surprise in the form of a delicious Cashew “Cheese” Ball! Some Smoked Boerenkaas Gouda was also on hand plus dark chocolate and tangy fruit, but the wonderfully umami-rich Cheese Ball stole the show. Of course it couldn’t do so without Elephant Island’s exciting Stellaport, made from ripe Stella Cherries and aged for more than a decade in a solera system, before this particular bottle was released in 2013. Surprisingly drier than expected the Stellaport oozed smoked cherries & chocolate, toffee, and over time an appealing savoury barbecue aroma. Nary a drop remained by evening’s end, leaving us to bid adieu relishing the rich, long-lasting flavours as we pondered new culinary memories.