January Wine Dinner: Winter Whites

It’s been too long since our last wine club dinner, so last weekend an augmented group of eight brought together our best homemade culinary creations with a great many bottles of BC wine once again! Normally we hold these dinners with six people – three couples – who each contribute one course and a wine pairing. However, there was so much good cheer (and miraculously easy scheduling) going around we brought some other friends on board as well. It didn’t hurt that our hosts have a wonderfully large table that can seat eight, or even ten in a pinch.

With our hosts putting together the entree course, and my wife and I devoted to dessert already, there was little opposition to a duo of starter courses from the other two couples. Our appetizer chefs actually coordinated with one another to avoid duplication, but we reminded them that this wine club requires no advance planning – and it’s always worked out wonderfully in fact. Case in point: without anyone planning it or notifying others, we all brought white wines this time, once again yielding an unintentional theme.

The first course was soon revealed to be an attractive spinach salad, accessorized with red onion, toasted hazelnuts, dried cranberries, and a homemade balsamic dressing. To pair with it was Howling Bluff’s superb 2012 Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon, with sufficient – balanced – acidity to stand up to the onions and tart dressing. The wine’s fresh floral nose still reminds one of summer even in winter months, and tropical flavours like star fruit kept us intrigued while pear and hints of cedar and mineral also showed up on the finish.

We continued to sip the Sauv-Sém and catch up while Round Two was put together with earnest in the kitchen. The intoxicating aromas of butter and herbs got us all wondering, while we were tasked with choosing which of two wines to enjoy next. Burrowing Owl’s 2011 Pinot Gris was deemed the best pairing for the extremely rich Ricotta Gnudi with which we were soon gleefully presented. A brown-butter sage sauce and crumbled fresh Romano made these little hybrid dumplings shine. The full-bodied, creamy Pinot Gris was an excellent match, with flavours of apples and pears, and a tart finish that cut through the buttery food pairing.

Despite the surprisingly filling gnudi, there was plenty of food and wine to come, particularly the Indian-inspired feast our hosts had assembled. Butter Chicken and Butter Tempeh were accompanied by authentic Aloo Gobi, Quinoa-Wild Rice Pilaf, fresh Chickpea Salad, and Naan Bread. It was dangerously tempting to load up on everything, even three courses in, especially the rich, flavourful, vegetarian-friendly butter tempeh.

Such a bounty of food called for plenty of wine, and our hosts had acquired two bottles each of Dirty Laundry’s “Say Yes” 2012 Pinot Gris, and Thornhaven’s 2012 Gewürztraminer – more than enough to go around! The beautifully-bottled Say Yes was actually the sweeter of the two wines, with slight floral aromas, tropical pineapple flavours, and a full-bodied texture thanks to fairly high sugar. The Thornhaven really shone alongside the spicy food, with textbook floral, sweet lychee aromas, and superb balance. Thornhaven is legendary for their Gewürztraminer, winning top medals and Best of Class awards every year, such as the Gold last fall at the BC Wine Awards (along with another Gold for the winery’s 2011 Syrah).

We all had to hold off on serving too many second helpings, as a rich closing course was on the way. My wife and I had prepared dessert in advance, needing only to pop it in the oven when the time was right. While awaiting tell-tale baking aromas, we all sipped from Team Gnudi’s second bottle, a charming Riesling from La Frenz they had obtained at the winery during a visit last summer. With a fresh citrus nose and no earthy/petrol aromas as of yet it made for a superb palate cleanser. Lots of lemon-lime and mandarin orange flavours were accompanied by a tart finish balanced with just enough residual sugar.

After a great deal of eying, checking, and even some poking, dessert was finally out of the oven and ready to serve. It was quite a process to ensure our individual Molten Chocolate Lava Cakes were sufficiently cooked to come out of their ramekins neatly, yet retaining that ethereal moistness necessary for full enjoyment. A dusting of powdered sugar, some fresh whipped cream, and a few drops of homemade cherry coulis rounded out the plating with pride, before we cracked open a bottle of Nk’Mip 2012 Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine.

Although long a successful wine for this Nk’Mip, the 2012 vintage of their Icewine has recently been burning up the airwaves thanks to a 100-point review from John Schreiner. A striking 93-points from Anthony Gismondi and inclusion in his semi-annual list of the Top 10 Wines of British Columbia haven’t hurt matters either. In fact, Gismondi’s review suggested serving this elegant gem with chocolate, so the Lava Cakes seemed an ideal pairing for such a striking wine. Even with rich cocoa aromas filling the room the intense, vibrant nose of the wine stood out, with a basket of tropical guava and lychee aromas jumping forth. The tart acidity deftly cut through the cake, showing extremely pure honeyed mandarin flavours that lasted for ages. I’m definitely looking forward to adding another bottle to my cellar for a bit of aging, if I can keep my hands off of it!

To finish off the evening in style I broke out a rotund little bottle of Saxon Winery’s VIP Port-style fortified Pinot Noir. I picked up a couple bottles last fall during the BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour, which was based in Saxon’s home community of Summerland. Two years in barrel and fortification with Foch Brandy have yielded a surprisingly spicy wine that everyone enjoyed. In particular, the lower sugar than expected and some meaty hints beyond the cinnamon and nutmeg flavours provoked plenty of commentary; the smile-inducing “grapey” finish was just icing on the cake.

We all left sufficiently stuffed and feeling very learned about several new wines; I was particularly pleased to share the Icewine and Port-style with everyone. Thanks to the enthusiasm and generosity of everyone involved I’m sure we’ll do it again soon!

BCWAS Moon Curser Tasting

The BC Wine Appreciation Society welcomed Chris Tolley to the new year’s first of many monthly tasting events last week. Fresh from a family vacation in warmer parts down south, Chris brought several wines from his southern Okanagan winery Moon Curser. Chris and his wife Beata will be celebrating the tenth anniversary of their adventurous winery this year, having acquired the Osoyoos East Bench property in May of 2004. Both Chris and Beata obtained professional winemaking training in New Zealand after switching gears from software engineering and accounting careers respectfully. They operate Moon Curser (formerly Twisted Tree) with the passion of two self-professed wine geeks, gleefully experimenting with what is possible in their vineyards, yielding many exciting Canadian firsts.

Using a combination of estate vineyards and long-term leased properties, the Tolleys are growing grapes previously absent from Canada. Their home vineyard includes Carménère, Tannat, and Tempranillo, and they recently acquired the vineyard responsible for their first varietal Touriga Nacional (named Best of Category at the 2013 All Canadian Wine Championships). While introducing himself and his winery to the assembled guests, Chris revealed plans to plant Nero d’Avola this year, and discussed earlier plantings of Dolcetto and Corvina (although that late-ripening variety ultimately wasn’t successful). The heartbreak over failed plantings like the Corvina is tempered by pleasant surprises like the Touriga, which Chris never expected to yield anything at all!

Soft-spoken Chris tempered his introductory discussion with the suggestion that perhaps we should actually drink some wine, particularly given the appropriately chilled whites on the tables. The “reception wine” of Blue Mountain Brut had whet our appetites for the aromatic Rhone grapes that comprise Moon Curser’s entire white portfolio at present. Although Chardonnay Musque has made an appearance in the past, right now Chris is focused on Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. We had the chance to compare 2012 vintages of the varietal Viognier as well as the “Afraid of the Dark” blend of all three varieties.

Starting with the Viognier we found a perfumed and serious wine, with an intensely flavoured palate of stone fruit and tropical pineapple notes, rather hot on the lemon finish. (Later, as it warmed an enjoyable creamy key lime pie character came out.) Chris pointed out that the Viognier costs more than other whites to produce, hence the $28 price tag, whereas the VRM blend is only $22. The Afraid of the Dark comes across as less aromatic than the varietal Viognier, with a rounder, smoother palate. This charming blend was a winner of a Gold Medal at the inaugural National Wine Awards last year. Flavours of white nectarines and orange blossom lead to an apple finish. The blend is nearly half Roussanne, with 31% Viognier and 22% Marsanne. On their own the Marsanne and Roussanne failed to impress Chris, but he feels the conglomerate of all three is much greater than the sum of its parts.

With so many red wines on offer from Moon Curser, the rest of the tasting was dedicated to darker juice. Although Chris’ varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Touriga Nacional weren’t available, there were plenty more to choose from! It seemed apt to begin with “Border Vines”, the Bordeaux-inspired blend that was originally born as “Six Vines”. Unlike the vast majority of red blends out there, Moon Curser has always included Carménère in additional to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Chris even regaled the tale of being refused entry to a competition as a result of the blend components: by the time he’d convinced the gatekeepers that Carménère was in fact permitted in Bordeaux blends it was too late to compete!

The current release 2011 Border Vines is doubly unique: in addition to including 1% Carménère, the blend is led by Malbec (38%). One quarter each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot are followed by 12% Petit Verdot and only 2% Cabernet Sauvignon to conclude matters. This creative blend provides a nose of field-fresh dark berries with hints of eucalyptus and leather. On the bright palate mild tannins facilitate enjoyment of the currants and blackberry flavours, with a touch of black licorice and an all-around grapey essence. At $25 it provides for a very quaffable, finely crafted wine at excellent value.

To show how he works with single varietals, Chris then moved us on to his long-since-sold-out 2010 Tempranillo. Leather immediately jumped forward on the nose, but the big juicy fruit leather palate provided a pleasant surprise. Despite an additional year of age, the Tempranillo displayed more prominent tannins than the (younger) Border Vines.

The “main event” was next, in the form of two three-year verticals, beginning with the varietal Syrah, from the 2009-2011 vintages. Syrah is typically Moon Curser’s largest production varietal red, with several hundred cases released each year (although that pales in comparison to the nearly 2,000 cases of Border Vines typically produced). Chris sources the fruit from up to three Osoyoos East Bench vineyards, and ages each block separately in oak (often including some Hungarian barrels) for about eighteen months before blending and bottling.

What was immediately apparent upon viewing the three Syrah was the difference in the 2009 vintage: this oldest of the three wines was noticeably rustier in colour than both following vintages. The maturity came out in the nose as well, with black pepper, leather, toast, and dark red berries. The juicy, rich palate made it an early favourite for many, providing memorable Port-like warmth and viscosity.

Both 2010 and 2011 Syrah saw changes via the inclusion of small percentages of other grape varieties. The 2010 vintage was amped up by 9% Tannat, and came across cooler on the nose, with prominent cocoa notes. The peppery, fruity palate was smooth and slippery, ultimately making it the crowd favourite of the three. For 2011 Chris co-fermented about 7% Viognier with the Syrah, leading to a slight floral perfume on the nose, and a youthful, fruit toast palate with a hint of white pepper and cocoa. Some bitter tannins on the finish suggest more time in bottle wouldn’t hurt for this young wine.

Our final three wines were Moon Curser’s “icon red” in the form of the “Dead of Night” Tannat-Syrah blend, which rings in at $38, a third more than any of the other wines in the portfolio. Acquiring Tannat for his vineyards was no easy feat, and Chris shared the humorous tale of his efforts to call around California providers for budwood. As it turned out only one source was available, who was subsequently barraged by requests from every other provider Chris called upon being turned down. Eventually the sufficiently harassed vineyard owner relented – with Chris having no idea he’d been waging an inadvertent campaign of intimidation!

Up until 2008, during the Twisted Tree era, the winery produced a straight varietal Tannat, but for 2009 Chris experimented with some blending trials with Cabernets, Malbec, and other reds. It was only after an offhand suggestion by Beata did he include Syrah, which they both unequivocally selected as their favourite choice (and since then it comprises nearly exactly half the blend). With that first version of the new Dead of Night in front of us it was obviously dominated by dark fruit, with additional austere elements of leather, earth, and charcoal. A very smooth palate was awash in rich, bright fruit such as cherries and plums. After nearly three years in bottle the wine is aging quite well, with years ahead as well.

Dead of Night 2010 is the current release, still available at the winery and stores – about 400 cases were produced. The 2010 is not quite as expressive on the nose as the earlier 2009, yet with noticeable raisiny hints. More savoury elements come forth on the palate, which is dominated by red fruit over black fruit, with berries and leather most apparent. Once the 2010 is sold out the 2011 vintage will become available for purchase, and we lucked out in obtaining a preview taste. The young 2011 showed off an elegant nose, almost lightly perfumed, with leathery, green hints. The prominent tannins on the palate suggest additional years in bottle would be wise however, so there is no rush to push it out the door just yet. To conclude the tasting Chris revealed plans for varietal Tannat in addition to the Dead of Night for the recent 2012 and 2013 vintages, due to warm, ripe conditions both years.

The evening was altogether a great introduction to Moon Curser for those without much experience, and a chance for long-time fans to compare and contrast varietals and vintages they may have in their cellars. I myself was pleased to sample wines I’ve already enjoyed (such as the 2009 Syrah), and those aging at home (including the Dead of Night). I especially look forward to my next visit in person to Moon Curser for more unique wines and news of the Tolleys’ newest vineyard adventures!

Black Hills Gets the Riedel Treatment

The BC Wine Appreciation Society welcomed a couple of special guests recently, as a sold out crowd was present to experience the wines of Black Hills presented in exclusive varietal-specific Riedel glasses. Riedel Canada Regional President Stewart Risto had flown out from Toronto to lead the tasting, with Black Hills President Glenn Fawcett present as well, in large part just to enjoy the experience! The BCWAS Executive had arranged with Riedel for a special deal on the high-end Vinum XL stemware, so that each attendee got to take home the Red Wine Tasting Set they were using, for a substantial discount off of normal retail prices.

As Glenn and Stewart introduced themselves we sipped on Black Hills Alibi 2012, their Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, and gained some interesting perspective on the wine’s history. Glenn explained that the Alibi’s playful, stylistic label is a form of tribute to French winemaker Didier Dagueneau, whom Black Hills founder Senka Tennant met and worked with for one harvest in France. Dagueneau was an outsider when he started his Loire Valley winery, but he went on to produce some of the world’s most celebrated Sauvignon Blanc before his untimely accidental death in 2008. The Alibi label (and the ripe, creamy wine inside) is an homage to his eccentric manner, and his well-deserved success.

While the Alibi went down easy, Glenn shared some of the history of Black Hills, and their Black Sage Bench vineyard. I was amused to hear of the early nickname for the region, “Black Sage Beach", which came about when the land was cleared for vines and revealed to be almost pure sand. As pointed out by Tinhorn Creek, when discussing their Black Sage Bench Diamondback Vineyard, challenges abound in such terrain, including holes that fill with sand immediately upon being dug, plus low nutrients and very high drainage – requiring more intensive irrigation.

Soon Glenn sat back to witness Stewart work the room, in a confident and very experienced manner to say the least. As Stewart was happy to point out, he has travelled the world extensively on behalf of Riedel, and has no doubt spoken to hundreds of enthusiastic audiences just like those gathered before him. Those travels – and the food and wine involved – have led him to pack on a few pounds, which he proudly declared to be “Michelin fat”, having come from many of the world’s finest Michelin-starred restaurants.

While Stewart seemed to have a bevy of fascinating stories about his work – and the eccentric Riedel family – he himself recognized it was time to start focusing on the glasses and wines in front of us. We were to taste the new 2011 vintages of Black Hills’ Carménère, Syrah, and Nota Bene out of three unique Riedel Vinum XL glasses. Having been first released for sale only four short years ago, the XL series are much larger than Riedel’s other stemware (the Cabernet glass can easily hold any entire bottle of wine). Stewart explained that wines have changed over the years since the Vinum line was introduced (1986), with higher alcohol content demanding a larger bowl to better introduce the aromas of “big, bold, concentrated wines.” The seemingly enormous glasses are machine-blown in Germany, from lead crystal, and cooled slowly to line up the molecules and ensure strength. Stewart demonstrated the advantages of the Riedel manufacturing technique by literally flexing the stem and compressing the bowl, to anxious gasps from the audience!

The tasting process for the evening was set up to show each wine at its best, in the most appropriate glass, and to clearly illustrate the differences between the three different glasses. As a result we were asked to sample each wine from all three glasses, paying close attention to how the nose and palate were altered as a result, beginning with the rare Carménère. Only about 165 cases of Carménère are produced each year at Black Hills, and the wine isn’t even sold to the public at the winery’s own tasting room, so we were very lucky to enjoy it as part of our tasting! What became immediately apparent was that the huge Cabernet Sauvignon glass did little to maximize the Carménère, it being simply too large to hold the delicate aromas, and in fact served only to emphasize the acid and tannin on the palate. The Pinot Noir glass was by far the most appropriate for the task, carefully shepherding the aromas, and ensuring the wine landed on the tip of the tongue, keeping it in balance.

The 2011 Syrah represents only the third vintage of this varietal from Black Hills, but it is an ideal wine for the terroir. Glenn was quick to point out that eight of the eleven wines named “Red Wine of the Year” in the annual Canadian Wine Awards (2002-2012) comprised Syrah from the Black Sage Bench. Black Hills’ success with Syrah became evident as we enjoyed rich aromas of leather and spice, and an intensely fruit-forward palate from the appropriate glass. In the Pinot Noir glass the Syrah was overcome by toast and a somewhat bitter palate, while from the larger Cabernet glass the tannins dominated the palate. Back in the Syrah glass, a few bites of chocolate ensured the pepper notes in the wine really shone through as well, gaining additional compliments, and fans!

The young 2011 Nota Bene was our final wine, destined for the cavernous Cabernet glass – ideal considering Black Hills’ icon red is typically about one half Cabernet Sauvignon. Before tasting the wine, we heard the exciting origin story that started it all: shockingly the winery’s original owners had little aspiration to make wine, but were instead seeking to sell their grapes to others! The McCarrell and Tennant families who planted the vineyard in 1996 eventually decided to produce a small amount of wine themselves, and the first vintage of Nota Bene came from the 1999 harvest. Shortly after the doors to their small Quonset hut tasting room opened in June of 2001, the wine received accolades in Vancouver media from Jurgen Gothe, and visitors began knocking on the door in droves. The winery has had little trouble selling their wine since then, and they certainly use all their grapes now!

In the Pinot Noir glass, the Nota Bene was restrained on the nose, with only notes of toasted oak showing through, and little in the way of finish on the red fruit palate. From the Syrah glass, cherry fruit emerged, along with a hit of alcohol, but significant tannins overwhelmed the palate. In the Cabernet glass, the wine showed ripe, sweet fruit on the nose, and additional spicy dark fruit on the palate, which paired perfectly with the dark chocolate squares from which we all nibbled. Once again, dramatic differences in aroma, flavour, and body were evident amongst the three glasses – even Glenn was amazed at the differences! With the tasting complete it didn’t take much time for the few additional sets of glasses to be snapped up by eager attendees, who all seemed ecstatic to be taking home such transformational stemware. Many thanks to Riedel Canada and Stewart Risto, and to Glenn Fawcett and Black Hills Winery for providing for such an informative, entertaining, and delicious evening!

BCWAS Perseus Tasting

After another wildly successful and entertaining Bus Tour in September, the BC Wine Appreciation Society restarted the regular series of winery tastings this month, with a visit from Penticton winery Perseus. This young winery has experienced quite a tumultuous few years, having been founded in 2009, sold in 2011, and expanded in 2013. At the same time, three talented winemakers have had their hands involved in creating a broad portfolio of whites and reds, with the reins having recently transferred to Okanagan Crush Pad’s Matt Dumayne. In addition to setting his own style for the 2013 vintage, Matt is also tasked with finishing the work of consulting winemaker Tom Di Bello, who left earlier this year (and can now be found at Burrowing Owl). Tom originally took over from consultant Lawrence Herder, who produced the 2009 wines and much of the 2010 vintage.

For the tasting we were joined by both Matt Dumayne and Perseus’ President and CEO Rob Ingram. Although Matt has had little to no influence on the wines we tasted (having only recently joined the team from his home base at OCP – Perseus’ production facility), he generously provided commentary and thoughts on future directions. We had available to taste four whites from the 2011 and 2012 vintages, as well as a range of reds going back to the first wines from 2009.

The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc prompted some enthusiastic comments from New Zealander Matt, who mentioned that he dislikes the style of Sauvignon produced in his home country. In his words, Perseus’ rich, tropical version is “everything Marlborough wants to be but can’t get there.” The wine was showing very enjoyable freshness, particularly for a nearly two-year-old bottle. As Perseus purchases most of their grapes from selected premium vineyards, Rob was able to share the sources for many of the wines: the Sauvignon Blanc was obtained from a Skaha Lake vineyard beside Blasted Church. Ironically, despite its popularity during our tasting, there will be no more Sauvignon Blanc from Perseus, as the winery has shifted their focus to other varietals.

Future efforts at the winery will continue to include Pinot Gris however, and we got to sample the luscious, Alsatian-styled 2011 vintage. Matt was impressed that this wine isn’t “thin, like many Okanagan Pinot Gris,” and revealed his plans underway to produce a Reserve bottling in 2013, given the exceptional quality of grapes from certain vineyard rows. This degree of production control can be obtained due to Perseus’ full ownership of their estate vineyard on Lower Bench Road in Penticton – planted exclusively to Pinot Gris.

Additional whites included a 2011 Chardonnay, from Naramata and Osoyoos vineyards: fermented and then aged 11 months in barrel, the creamy texture and mango and apple flavours yielded a long finish. The single 2012 wine came in the form of a Similkameen valley Viognier, bottled just four months ago. Aromas of vanilla and pineapple, with creamy orange flavours benefitted from leaving the wine on its lees until a month before bottling.

Several varied red wines awaited us as the whites were finished up, beginning with a very rare small lot 2011 Malbec. Only 50 cases of this youthful and rich wine were produced, and the vibrant purple colour, violet aromas, and mint chocolate flavours kept me coming back for more! The similarly small production of 2011 Cabernet Franc was next up, with firm tannins but soft acidity. Coming primarily from the Similkameen’s renowned Blind Creek vineyard, it showed hints of developing dark fruit and candidacy for further aging.

Two mini-verticals of reds to conclude the tasting began with the 2010 and 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Perseus’ most expensive wines at $50 a bottle. Like the Malbec and Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon is part of Perseus’ “Select Lots” series of wines, with only a handful of barrels produced each year. The grapes are sourced from the Osoyoos Indian Band’s Inkameep Vineyard in the southern Okanagan, home of much legendary Cabernet Sauvignon. The huge “legs” (thanks to more than 15% alcohol) in the 2010 led up to a long finish featuring dark fruit and noticeable licorice flavour. The newer 2011 vintage was only bottled four months ago, and showed a fresher, fruitier profile, with slightly softer acids, plus some entertaining hints of leather and even manure on the nose. Only 88 cases of the 2010 Cabernet were produced, and 111 cases of the 2011, so the winery barely even advertises these wines (nor their other Select Lot brethren), as they quickly sell out via the tasting room.

Finally it came time for the three year vertical of every available vintage of Perseus’ “Invictus” red blend, from 2009 to 2011. The 2009 and 2010 bottles were primarily the work of Lawrence Herder, while the as-yet-unreleased 2011 came from Tom Di Bello’s consultancy. Having done his homework, and with sufficient reference material available to him, Matt was able to expand upon the contents of each bottle and provide informative observations. The very ripe, 15.5% alcohol 2009 was comprised of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. Having started to get a little rusty in colour, the 2009 is clearly maturing briskly, showing generous stewed fruit aromas and flavours with a smooth, easy-drinking texture.

Very little of the 2009 Invictus remains on store shelves, as the current release 2010 has taken over at the winery. The 2010 was the most savoury of the three wines, showing more tannin than its predecessor, plus a nose stepped in leather. Winemaker Lawrence Herder saw fit to substantially change up the blend in the second year, favouring a majority of 56% Merlot, followed by 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. The 2010 will take longer to mature than the 2009, so depending on sales figures there is no hurry on the part of the winery to push out the 2011 too early.

Our preview tasting of the third vintage of Invictus was very revealing, illustrating the continued change in the wine as Tom Di Bello took over winemaking duties. While Merlot remains a favoured component of the blend, at 40%, Malbec has jumped to 21%, followed by 18% Petit Verdot, and only then do Cabernet Sauvignon (11%) and Cabernet Franc (10%) come into play. The 2011 Invictus was my personal favourite, given the strong Malbec influence and accompanying milk chocolate aromas, plus additional black fruit flavours.

The evening concluded with an exciting wine raffle, thanks to CEO Rob Ingram having brought along a full case of wine, representing nearly every varietal and blend produced by Perseus. Rob’s generosity in donating twelve bottles ensured that a great many guests went home even happier! As winners were drawn, and selected their preferred bottle, each was invited to draw the next lucky recipient. I felt particularly fortunate to win the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, having only recently picked up the 2010 at the winery on the way to the September BCWAS bus tour; neither bottle will go lonely in my cellar now.

BCWAS Bus Tour 2013 Acquisitions

The annual BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour has become one of my top wine country shopping opportunities. Not only does the tour itself visit numerous top-tier and up-and-coming wineries, but the trip out to the Okanagan can provide for plenty of detours to obtain winery exclusive bottles. With this year’s tour operating out of Summerland Waterfront Resort I elected on a route that took me there via the Coquihalla, and home via Osoyoos and the Similkameen Valley – to cover as much territory as possible.

My Friday began with an early morning departure and an uneventful, easy drive to West Kelowna, where I looked forward to lunch at Quails’ Gate’s Old Vines Restaurant, my first time dining at this well-regarded venue. Beforehand I popped into the Wine Shop seeking a bottle of the winery’s elusive “Dijon Clone Selection” Pinot Noir. Although the wine was originally released two years ago (to glowing reviews), I had recently read that a few remaining bottles were newly available at the winery. Considering I had missed out during the initial release my fingers were crossed for this last chance opportunity. My persistence was rewarded with one of the last bottles from below the counter, #1873 – each bottle (of 2640) is individually numbered!

Full of delicious food and relaxed from the gorgeous garden and vineyard views at Quails’ Gate I next stopped by Mission Hill for a bottle of newly released 2010 Oculus to maintain my vertical of this iconic wine, plus the first release of (2012) Viognier from the winery’s Martin’s Lane collection (joining Riesling and Pinot Noir). Quickly zipping south – ironically past the resort – I made it through Penticton and up to Laughing Stock before closing. There I was able to collect my fall allotment from the Preferred Share Wine Club – and even taste the three wines in my six-bottle box: the 2012 Chardonnay and Viognier are both delightfully fresh and fruity, from a near-perfect vintage. The delayed fall release of these whites has given them ample time to overcome bottle-shock and knit together extremely well. I was even impressed by the sample of very young 2011 Portfolio: despite near-mandatory cellar time and a cool, disappointing vintage David Enns has put together another superb wine I’m quite pleased to have brought home with me.

My final visit of the day before travelling back through Penticton and north to Summerland was a stop at Perseus, open late and within the city limits. I was finally able to acquire a bottle of the winery’s well-regarded 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, from a miniscule lot of only 89 cases. I tacked on a bottle of 2011 Malbec (from only two barrels) given how rarely it appears as a single-varietal in the Okanagan, and another of a surprisingly peppery 2011 Syrah Malbec that was open for tasting. With a full case in the trunk already I was feeling quite optimistic about the upcoming weekend of touring, and made it back to Summerland just in time for the opening dinner and Bottleneck Drive tasting at Local Lounge. My day ended with one last purchase of VIP Fortified Pinot Noir from Saxon Winery – I was quite happy to order a couple bottles (gracefully delivered to the hotel the next day) after tasting it during the evening’s events.

With my own driving duties for the weekend put aside, I was free to relax and taste plenty of fine wines over the next two days as our bus weaved through the wineries of the Naramata Bench and Summerland. On Saturday we enjoyed the morning hospitality of Upper Bench Winery & Creamery, where I gladly purchased structured 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon from Gavin Miller – who helped launch the lauded reds of Painted Rock. Lunch at Poplar Grove saw me add a bottle of extremely delicious 2012 Viognier to my stash, and then another one of the same from Red Rooster later in the afternoon, along with a 2011 Malbec as well. That night’s Winemaker Dinner at Local Lounge featured Tom Di Bello, which made for the perfect opportunity to obtain some Di Bello Wines 2010 Syrah, 2011 Chardonnay, and 2011 Merlot straight from the source. Spending the meal talking with Tom and Tari Di Bello (and Robert Van Westen) was easily the icing on the cake!

On Sunday, as we toured Summerland wineries my purchasing habits were slightly more tempered – knowing the virtual smorgasbord of southern Okanagan wineries awaiting me on the way home the next day. Ironically the wide availability of Sumac Ridge’s wines – in particular the reliable sparkling Steller’s Jay – negated any need to purchase during our morning visit. However, our lunch at Okanagan Crush Pad provided an invaluable opportunity to pick up a couple bottles of sparkling “Bub” Rosé from house brand Haywire. Later in the afternoon as we wound things down at Sonoran Winery I picked up my final Bus Tour wine in the form of a delicious tropical caramel 2007 Ehrenfelser Icewine. Ehrenfelser as icewine is rare enough, and finding a bottle that’s already been aged into something particularly interesting is rarer still.

Although I gleefully picked up some exciting rarities and surprise treats during the Bus Tour, it was on the way home the next day that I really got going: many of my favourite wineries lie south of McIntyre Bluff, where heat-loving red grapes thrive. I got an early start, in the hopes of making it home to Vancouver before dark, with my first visit to the BC Wine Information Centre in Penticton. I made sure to take home the Lt. Governor’s Award-winning Wild Goose 2012 Mystic River Pinot Blanc I found on the shelf at the Centre’s VQA Store – not knowing what might be available at the winery in Okanagan Falls, or whether I’d have time to stop there. Along Skaha Lake south of Penticton I swung up to Blasted Church after taking in the sights at Painted Rock, and added a couple bottles of the brand new OMG Sparkling, plus an advance release of 2011 “Holy Moly” Petit Verdot. Admittedly 2011 wasn’t the ideal vintage for varietal Petit Verdot, but at the very least it should be interesting to taste a grape that is nearly always blended into other wines in miniscule proportions.

With the clock already ticking I had to burn through Okanagan Falls, stopping only at Stag’s Hollow, where I was very lucky to get some of the winery’s brand new 2012 Grenache, a very exciting Canadian first for this varietal. Winemaker Dwight Sick planted the vines back in 2006 and has been patiently waiting several years to see this wine come to fruition. Only 170 cases were produced, and it likely won’t make it into stores, hence my personal visit. Of course, adding the newly-released 2011 Tempranillo and a bottle of the winery’s 2011 “Hart” Port-style fortified Merlot were additional excellent reasons to wind my way off the highway.

I spent the next couple of hours working my way south, adding to my growing bounty, and picking up some pre-orders to avoid dreaded shipping costs. From Fairview Cellars in Oliver I picked up Bill Eggert’s Fall releases without question: 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, “Bucket O’ Blood” Syrah/Cabernet, “Two Hoots” Cabernet/Merlot, and a couple bottles of “The Bear” Meritage. At Tinhorn Creek a few minutes away I made sure to collect my Fall “Crush Club” half-case of reds, as well as add a winery-exclusive bottle of 2010 Oldfield Series Syrah, which was produced in quantities too small to include in the Club orders this year (only 210 cases). Then I made my first visit to the Triggs family’s new winery Culmina, where I was excited to collect my pre-ordered bottles of 2011 Dilemma Chardonnay and Hypothesis red blend. I bumped into some fellow BCWAS members getting a personal tour from Don Triggs, and begrudgingly had to leave with only some photos and plenty of jealousy! Finally, across the valley I stopped at Black Hills for the 2011 Syrah, the veteran winery’s third vintage with this varietal, which I’ve been collecting since first release.

I finally made it to Osoyoos for a quick lunch before heading home via Highway 3 and the Similkameen Valley. Still eager to arrive in Vancouver during daylight hours I only had time for two quick but vital winery visits. At Seven Stones I was eager for a bottle of the newly released 2011 Cabernet Franc, continuing my efforts to collect all of George Hanson’s excellent red wines given the opportunity (not that his Chardonnay and Rosé don’t also deserve plenty of compliment). Finally, in Cawston I pulled up to Orofino with a reserved spot in the trunk for my second case from the winery’s “Collector’s Club”. Upon receipt I was very pleased to see multiples of 2012 Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as 2011 Syrah and Merlot, and even two bottles of the 2010 Hendsbee Vineyard Petit Verdot, of which only 75 cases were produced. Proprietors John and Virginia Weber had even included a special bottle of 2007 Canadian Oak Chardonnay for wine geeks to fawn over. To cap off the trip I bumped into the same group of BCWAS friends I’d earlier seen at Culmina as I was leaving – it’s nice to have friends with such excellent taste in BC wine!

Destination Painted Rock

Renowned Skaha Lake winery Painted Rock recently opened the doors of their brand new Tasting Lounge facility, and I had the honour of attending the Grand Opening party last weekend.

Proprietor John Skinner has been gleefully showing off renderings and constructions photographs for many months. With the big day finally upon us he was rightfully proud to reveal the result of years of patience: a formal tasting room having taken a back seat to vineyard and winery development for the past several years, since the property was acquired in 2004.

Although a comprehensive production building was eventually constructed to facilitate the creation of Painted Rock’s rapidly respected portfolio of wines, visitors to the property were treated to a comically small “temporary tasting room” for years. Originally a break room for vineyard staff, this little shack (clean and newly built, but the size of a bedroom), became a placeholder for things to come. After all, it was the spectacular wines inside that made Painted Rock the highly respected representative of the “New Okanagan” it is today.

It soon became a point of pride to have visited the Painted Rock shack, and I suspect that many visitors will always have a soft spot for that little room. Fans will be glad to know the shack survives, and has been returned to its original purpose elsewhere in the vineyard. This despite my tongue-in-cheek suggestion to John that the new tasting room be built around the shack, to preserve it like a museum exhibit.

With the Painted Rock brand well-established and the vineyards producing just as planned, a proper tasting room was finally commissioned from Penticton architect Robert Mackenzie. The desire for outdoor event spaces overlooking the vineyards and the Lake necessitated heaps of fill in order to raise the site elevation and maximize sightlines. Construction began this spring, and proceeded successfully throughout the summer (with plenty of online updates provided by John), until full completion and landscaping in late August.

The Tasting Lounge had already hosted a soft open in the recent past, as the venue for John’s brother’s wedding, during which the value of a sturdy tent had been noted given the fast-changing weather in the region. Fortunately the wedding avoided calamity when rain-showers approached just as the ceremony wrapped up, but John was taking no chances this time: a slick, very on-theme tent shelter was on hand for the Grand Opening, complete with glittering chandeliers!

The tent briefly enjoyed its intended use during a rainstorm that rolled over the region just as the party began, causing organizers some brief consternation. Afterwards however, it was only needed to provide respite from the blazing sun that blessed the winery for the remainder of the afternoon. The shelter did little to detract from the beauty of the new Lounge, but seeing the sleek facility just as the architect intended is even more impressive. I myself had visited the winery only days before, and so captured a bevy of photographs of the new facility unaccompanied by its skeletal companion.

My previous visit was in the early morning, before the Lounge opened; this event was my first chance to explore inside the completed building. The clean ambient lighting and gleaming white surfaces provoke a heavenly atmosphere, accessorized smartly by well-organized wine bottles and John’s four Lieutenant Governor’s Awards. Massive glass doors slide smoothly into the walls, opening up the entire room to the outdoors, where the pure white concrete floors continue up to lush green grass. Hints of wood ground the building in the natural world, complemented by landscaped rock gardens and native plants.

Outside, the multi-level grass plaza seems designed with weddings in mind, and I’m sure many couples will soon be seeking to celebrate their nuptials amongst such idyllic surroundings. Having a look behind the building one can see extensive accommodations for vehicle parking as well, alluding to an expected prosperous future as the premier South Penticton destination. One can’t help but imagine a restaurant or boutique hotel might not be far behind. If so I’ll gladly join the waiting list for accommodations!

BCWAS Bus Tour 2013: Summerland

Our Saturday night dinner at Local Lounge with Tom & Tari Di Bello and Robert Van Westen concluded with BC Wine Appreciation Society members locking in their wine orders and bidding adieu to our talented guests. Many guests turned in for the evening after dinner, grateful for Sunday’s later 9am muster call. Our first appointment that day was just minutes away at Sumac Ridge Winery. Winery Experience Manager Kristina was on hand to welcome us to one of BC’s oldest estate wineries, where we enjoyed our morning bubbly outside under the clearing skies.

For those who hadn’t already enjoyed sparkling wine with breakfast there was the quintessential 2008 Steller’s Jay, the non-vintage “Tribute” Blanc de Blancs, and the 2005 “Pinnacle” Reserve Sparkling, the most complex and elegant of the three. While we moved on to the Black Sage Vineyard 2010 Merlot, Kristina suggested we keep our eyes peeled for an upcoming sparkling Shiraz, and even a varietal Zinfandel. With the Sumac Ridge tasting room just around the corner many members took the opportunity to stock up on sparkling, and we even captured a group photo back outside, with newly refreshed glasses of Pinnacle in hand.

Magnums of Steller’s Jay and other treats safely ensconced in the bus we headed back through Summerland to 8th Generation Vineyards, on the south side of town. Winery Proprietors Bernd & Stefanie Schales were awaiting us in their beautifully decorated picnic area, with a slew of wines and mouth-watering baked goods from True Grain Bread. Each wine was paired with one of the many breads, pastries, and cookies from this highly successful, local organic bakery.

We enjoyed wines such as the 2012 Classic Riesling with ancient grain Emmer bread, the 2012 Integrity Frizzante with a classic French croissant, and 2011 Pinot Noir with gingerbread cookies. The chance to try the powerful 2011 Riesling “Selection” saw almost the entire remaining stock at the winery sold out during our visit! The enthusiastic crowd also descended upon the remaining Cheddar Twists, French Baguettes, Sourdough, and Chocolate Croissants brought along from True Grain, with a great many compliments to the baking team.

Having just filled up on breads we headed off to our lunch visit post-haste, where nearby Okanagan Crush Pad was hosting BCWAS favourite Joy Road Catering, and a festival style wine and food visit. OCP’s house brands Haywire and Bartier-Scholefield were being poured in earnest along with many gems from clients Perseus, Sage Hills, Bartier Brothers, and Harper’s Trail. After an introduction by Owner Christine Coletta, Chief Winemaker Michael Bartier brought us into the Switchback vineyard to describe his grape-growing and winemaking philosophies, while Joy Road’s servers circulated with trays of canapés.

Upon returning to the winery we found ourselves practically swimming in exquisite food and wine choices, including Heirloom Tomato Galette, Merguez Sausage & Homemade Pita, Grilled Striploin & Caponata, Wild Salmon Sliders, and Melon Carpaccio with Prosciutto. With dozens of wines on hand there was an ideal pairing for everything, which many members gladly explored!

To conclude our winery tours we spent the remainder of the afternoon after departing OCP enjoying the lively atmosphere and great company at Sonoran Winery. Proprietors Adrian and Sarah Smits provided for a seated tasting of their extensive portfolio, which focuses strongly on aromatic whites, including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Oraniensteiner, and Ehrenfelser. That being said, sampling 2007 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec was also quite a treat, while several platters of baked brie with Cabernet-caramelized onions were passed around. The fun was amplified by the live music and bouts of karaoke that emerged, led with gusto by Sarah and our very own bus driver, plus courageous BCWAS members!

Our unexpected party at Sonoran led to a delay in returning to the Resort for dinner, but Local Lounge graciously accommodated our revised schedule. We certainly didn’t want anything getting in the way of our dinner with Harry McWatters! Harry had brought wines from his McWatters Collection and TIME Estate Winery portfolios, to pair with a four-course family style dinner led masterfully yet again by Chef Lee.

With the new TIME 2011 Chardonnay guests enjoyed Fraser Valley Rabbit Terrine while Harry discussed the great advances in BC wine culture over the years. Seared Scallops followed, with TIME’s smooth, tropical 2012 White Meritage. The entrée course included heaping trays of Roasted Ling Cod, as well as Grilled Beef Tenderloin, served with McWatters Collection 2011 Chardonnay and TIME 2011 Red Meritage.

An inventive and delicious dessert course included the McWatters Collection 2009 Red Meritage both in our glasses and in the chocolate cake served with poached blackberries and caramel espresso ice cream. Over and above the fantastic food and wine, listening to Harry’s decades of insights on the BC wine trade was a treat; his passion and integrity have helped build an entire industry, and he has no plans of slowing down!

Concluding our bus tour at the same superb venue in which it began seemed particularly apt; enjoying local food and wine is what the tour is all about. Celebrating BC’s best with a great group of passionate people left me energized and excited to do it all again next year!