Recent Acquisitions: January

The schedule of new release wines usually slows down a bit in January, giving collectors a chance to catch their breath after the busy Fall and Christmas season – when many tempting sales and specials are in abundance. Last month I took the chance to fill in a few holes in my collection, as well as snap up some of the few recent releases while I had the chance to concentrate on them: the Spring Wine Festival and reams of new wines will be upon us before we know it!

Nichol Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Syrah: A number of excellent wines are produced by this Naramata winery, in particular a well-respected Syrah and some great work with Pinot Noir. I was surprised to see that this unique blend of estate-grown Cabernet Franc and Syrah from the 2007 vintage was still available, considering the relatively low production quantity of 578 cases. The spiced fruit and chocolate profile sounded quite appealing, so I filled one of the last remaining spots in my 2007 compilation with a bottle from Firefly.

Jackson-Triggs 2007 Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Shiraz: This bottle represents one of the last available wines with Jackson-Triggs’ old labelling and nomenclature. The Proprietor’s Grand Reserve tier no longer exists, having been merged for the most part with the Sunrock tier into the new Gold Series wines. Considering this wine went through only 12-months in barrel, it’s surprisingly still available more than four years after harvest, and still active on the awards circuit as well: Jackson-Triggs brought home a gold medal from the BC Wine Awards at the Fall Wine Festival, and a silver from the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards. I took advantage of a post-Christmas 15% off sale from Vincor to buy this already economical wine at a superb price as part of a mixed case.

Peller 2009 Private Reserve Syrah: A surprise gold medal winner at the Canadian Wine Awards, this $20 Syrah faced stiff competition from the likes of Church & State, Painted Rock, Laughing Stock, and other big names. Not that Peller Estates is a small winery by any stretch, but it’s rare to see a winner this economical when the competition sells for up to twice as much. I filled out my collection of gold medal Syrah when I found a bottle at Village VQA wines. Most VQA stores should carry this vintage now, but only 889 cases were made so this potent Syrah won’t last too long at such an approachable price point.

Orofino 2009 Beleza: The new release of this Similkameen winery’s signature blend took place recently, and fans would be wise to grab a bottle like I did at Firefly, which has reliably carried the full range of Orofino’s relatively small lot wines for some time. The blend for 2009 is primarily Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a surprisingly high 20% contribution from Petit Verdot; that bold blend combined with 20 months in barrel should yield a powerful and ageable wine similar to the well-received 2008 version. Collectors could also consider an aggressively-priced magnum direct from the winery: Orofino garners a great deal of respect from me for not inflating their magnum price beyond the cost of two bottles.

Sandhill 2009 Small Lots Two: As is common for Sandhill’s Small Lot wines this Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy red blend appeared in BC Liquor Stores recently with little fanfare. Having missed the entire 2008 vintage of the Small Lots “One”, “Two”, and “Three” blends I didn’t dawdle in getting a bottle, despite little available information or reviews. Seeing as the 2008 wines never even made it to stores – and barely showed up on Sandhill’s website – I felt lucky to obtain this bottle, considering only 525 cases were produced.

Inniskillin 2009 Discovery Series Malbec: Another bottle from the mixed case I ordered via Great Estates of the Okanagan, I’d been looking for this wine since hearing about the gold medal it received at the BC Wine Awards last Fall. Seeing as there are so few varietal Malbecs produced in BC I’m always pleased to acquire particularly good ones. I actually had the chance the try this wine recently at a friend’s, and was impressed with the fresh, bright fruit and spicy finish. Other local Malbecs can often be had (when they aren’t sold out) from Cassini, CedarCreek, Desert Hills, Kettle Valley, La Frenz, Red Rooster, and Sandhill.

Burrowing Owl 2009 Meritage & Cabernet Sauvignon: Burrowing Owl has a habit of releasing their wines one at a time – presumably when they are ready – which makes purchasing a bit of a challenge, so a mixed case I ordered last Fall didn’t include the new Meritage, or the Cabernet Sauvignon. Fortunately the winery ships in smaller increments (as few as two bottles), so I recently piggybacked on a friend’s small order with a couple bottles of my own. So far little information is available about these new releases but they do have good pedigree: the 2008 vintages each received a silver medal at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards. The winery appears to have commissioned Rhys Pender to write detailed tasting notes, and his comments certainly inspire confidence.

Road 13 2010 Rockpile: Just recently released and showing up in most public and private stores (4,000 cases were made), this wine represents the third year of Road 13’s new red blend. The Syrah component has increased markedly this year, going up from 45% last year (with 45% Merlot) to 82% for 2010. It’s actually quite a lot of fun seeing how this blend changes from year to year: Rockpile shows Road 13’s realistic and flexible approach to winemaking – as each vintage differs so too does the blend. Although this wine is produced in a style that is approachable in its youth, I’ve nonetheless cellared some each year to see how it ages, something about which I imagine Road 13 is equally curious!

BCWAS: Howling Bluff Vertical Tasting

The BC Wine Appreciation Society hosted another sold-out event last month when Luke Smith, the owner of Howling Bluff Estate Winery joined us to lead two vertical tastings of his red wines. Luke is an outspoken advocate for the potential of the Naramata Bench to produce world-class wines, if only winery owners and winemakers would focus on the strengths he feels are being neglected throughout the Okanagan Valley: focused, targeted plantings of limited grape varieties that are climate appropriate. Howling Bluff has garnered an enviable series of major awards since their first vintage in 2006, and Luke is certain that by focusing on one varietal in particular – Pinot Noir – he can achieve continued critical success on a national and international stage.

While introducing himself and his winery Luke suggested that late ripening red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon (and the Bordeaux-style blends they rely upon) will never be truly suited to much of the Okanagan climate. When Howling Bluff’s vineyards were first being planned, Luke – then a big Bordeaux collector – followed the trend by planting the typical Bordeaux varietals, but it was his Pinot Noir that soon impressed him and critics alike: his first three vintages (respectively) won the Lt. Governor’s Award, the Okanagan Wine Festival People’s Choice Award, and the Canadian Wine Awards Red Wine of the Year (the first Pinot Noir to ever win). While demand for his Pinot soared, his Bordeaux blend Sin Cera – a very decent wine in itself – simply couldn’t follow suit, leading to substantial soul-searching and an eventual about-face for the winery. Despite widespread consumer expectations of “big reds” (leading to what may be inappropriate plantings of Cabernet and the like – that sell nonetheless), Luke told the assembled guests that he is currently ripping out or grafting all his other red vines over to Pinot Noir. He will retain his Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc plantings, however.

Knowing that the 2011 Sin Cera – currently in barrel – will be the last red blend from Howling Bluff, ensured that attendees at the tasting appreciated the four-year vertical that Luke had brought with him. Alongside the 2006-2009 Sin Cera was the star of Howling Bluff, the Summa Quies Vineyard Pinot Noir, of which we had five vintages from 2006-2010 before us. After his passionate and convincing introduction Luke got around to discussing the wines we were to taste, starting with their origin in his small estate vineyard on Three Mile Road just above Okanagan Lake. The vineyard slopes down towards the lake, ensuring that air continues moving across the grape vines, but making it treacherous to farm at times when the tractor tips precariously!

Fortunately physical safety is paramount at Howling Bluff, but financial concerns have shown Luke why Pinot Noir is called the “heartbreak grape”: he pointed out that because Pinot Noir over-crops “like crazy” the labour costs to properly crop the vines can be prohibitive! Yields of several tons per acre can be common, but won’t produce concentrated, high-quality wine, so most of the fruit has to be cut down early in the season. Watching potential income rotting away on the ground can be a very hard thing to do when you are a new winery owner trying to make a living! Fortunately Luke’s hard choices have paid off over time as his wine has gathered a strong following.

We were fortunate that he was able to share some of the few remaining bottles of his initial vintages with us at the tasting. Howling Bluff’s first vintage in 2006 yielded only 120 cases of Pinot Noir, all produced from brand new oak as the winery had no used barrels yet! Winning a Lt. Governor’s Award – the most prestigious prize in BC wines – was a huge coup, and few wineries have replicated such a feat in their first year (Painted Rock having done so twice for the 2007 vintage!). After five years aging the wine was very smooth, with sufficient acidity to suggest it could continue to age in bottle. The 2006 Sin Cera was equally smooth, and we were surprised to hear that it was in fact 100% Merlot rather than the blend most had assumed. A few guests bemoaned the upcoming demise of the Merlot vines at Howling Bluff if this delicious wine demonstrates what they can yield, however Luke was unfazed in his plans!

The following year was “monstrously hot” as Luke put it, resulting in the first major – and painful – crop thinning required on the Pinot Noir. The 2007 – a People’s Choice Award Winner – was a favourite at our table, with the smooth texture of the 2006 replicated but just a touch less acidity to ensure excellent balance. As more of the Bordeaux varieties came online in 2007 the Sin Cera became the blend Luke had imagined; we noticed it taking on more tannin and acid but it was still smooth and quite well liked by many in the room.

The 2008 wines were sources of much drama, in particular because of the amazing results from the Pinot Noir at the 2010 Canadian Wine Awards. Looking back Luke recollected that upon tasting random samples from the bottling line he was devastated at what he thought was a very unimpressive wine! Fortunately many wines can turn around in bottle, as Wine Access declared it to be “a joy in the glass…that wowed and beguiled the judges” in declaring it the first Pinot Noir to win the CWA Red Wine of the Year. I found it to have a smoky nose and pure clean fruit flavours, with higher acidity than 2007 (comparisons coming naturally as we progressed through the vintages). With 2008 being a cooler vintage, the 2008 Sin Cera demonstrated significant tannin, even after the time it has spent in bottle. Luke had no qualms calling this wine a “tannin bomb” that needs many more years in the cellar, and/or a big steak to accompany it.

Fortunately nature cooperated in the summer of 2009, but not before an intense freeze that winter killed and stunted reams of vines throughout the region, leaving Howling Bluff with only one quarter the crop size expected by harvest. The Sin Cera ended up a very different wine after the warm summer, significantly smoother and approachable, despite having been just released recently. The Pinot Noir vines – damaged as they were – continued to produce award-winning fruit, as Luke took home his second Lt. Governor’s Award for the 2009 vintage. So little wine remained on the market by the time he received the award he had to buy it back from local stores to build up his own cellar! In the glasses on our table the Pinot Noir was noticeably lighter in colour than other vintages (including the 2010 that followed it), yet very fruit forward on the nose with elegant qualities that many guests appreciated.

For 2009 Howling Bluff also went through a major label change, switching the “critter” labels featuring a stylized howling dog for clean and concise text on cream-coloured paper that is much more restaurant-friendly. Apparently industry buyers had provided feedback that customers were shying away from the bottle out of concern it might be a low-end wine judging by its “kooky” label! The new labels also feature vineyard designations to reflect the Estate Summa Quies vineyard as alternative Pinot Noirs from surrounding vineyards begin appearing in Howling Bluff’s portfolio.

By 2010 the grafting program was in full swing at Howling Bluff, and an additional 20% more new Pinot Noir vines were yielding fruit measuring up to Luke’s high standards. We were treated to an advance tasting of the 2010 Summa Quies Pinot Noir and were quite pleased at its approachability given its youth. Fruity and quite juicy on the nose, it is smoother than one would expect, and Luke delighted in pointing out how drinkable he and his family and friends have found it to be over the past few months. Fortunately despite the Smith family’s efforts about 300 cases are still available and should soon be for sale via the winery and select private and VQA wine stores.

As the tasting wound down Luke informed us that he is aiming for 2000 cases each year for the whole winery, including his white Semillon/Sauvignon blend and two or more Pinot Noirs, based on the five different clones he has planted and planned. If fans are lucky we may even see a little bit of Port-style wine as well! And finally, as more Pinot Noir vines mature he is also pondering a Reserve Pinot Noir above and beyond the regular Estate wine – an entirely free run wine from select vineyard blocks aged in 100% new oak: the Lieutenant Governor should be prepared!

January Wine Club: Upping the Ante

After spending much of the past few weeks travelling for the holidays and various work-related tasks, the members of our wine club were eager to get back together this month to catch up and share more great food and drink. It’s amusing to see how the club has progressed over the past year, with few of us willing to settle for bringing just one bottle anymore; two bottles per couple has now become almost the norm (not to mention a “dinner” that seems to last for many hours!). As we are all gaining more familiarity with the myriad excellent wineries in BC it’s hard to settle on just one wine to pair with the unique and exciting dish one is contributing to the meal; this month proved to be no exception to our newly developed pattern.

After enjoying a very appetizing and creamy sparkling wine from See Ya Later Ranch before dinner we tucked into the first course with gusto upon seeing individual cast-iron ramekins coming out of the kitchen. Those appealing dishes turned out to contain the most amazing vegetarian French onion soup, and we relished hearing about the chef’s success in retaining the soup’s traditional richness while also accommodating our varied dietary preferences. In place of the typical beef stock he had substituted vegetable stock, and found the secret ingredient to be soy sauce, which guaranteed the rich, meaty umami flavour that such a dish requires. In our glasses we found two completely different wines that each complemented the soup in different ways. Black Hills’ 2010 Viognier (only their second vintage) expressed floral and citrus aromas along with tart acidity and a long finish that emphasized the sweetness found in the heavily caramelized onions. Pairing such a fresh wine with a heavy dish such as this may not be immediately apparent, but the experience showed that – gastronomically – opposites can attract quite well indeed.

The citrus and spice in the Viognier provided a lovely lead-in to a wine that I practically jumped out of my seat to enjoy: CedarCreek’s 2005 Platinum ‘M’. This very rare fortified wine is the only Madeira-style produced in the Okanagan, and required five years of cask aging before only 100 cases were bottled in 2010. CedarCreek has a fairly long history of Madeira-style wines, having produced a non-vintage version described as “very close in style to the real thing” since the early 1990’s. I’ve personally been hoping to thoroughly taste this exciting wine since hearing about it when the 2004 vintage appeared on the market. It’s not an inexpensive proposition – selling for $65 at the winery – but for that price you do get a full-size bottle (750ml) at nearly 20% alcohol! The fortification is immediately apparent upon smelling it, but with more consideration caramel and cherry notes emerge, which reminded some of us of Amaretto liqueur. Although recommended as an after-dinner wine the ‘M’ paired marvellously with the soup, as it brought out the richness of the broth and baked cheese, leaving you with a warm, content feeling – no doubt helped along by the alcohol and 72g/L of residual sugar! Although the 2005 ‘M’ is now sold out on CedarCreek’s website, I have high hopes that they will continue to produce it on an annual basis, to enjoy at any time with or without food.

As we continued to slowly sip at our Madeira, we were invited to guess at the contents of two unmarked paper bags containing our entree wines. We were only told that both wines were the same (red) varietal, and one was from BC: our host has enjoyed challenging us in the past with BC vs. International pairings such as this, if you’ll recall our Barbera blind tasting last spring. With plates full of brightly coloured mushroom and rapini curry alongside navy bean and celery salad, courtesy of Vij’s cookbooks, we sniffed and sipped with discerning senses. The first wine smelled fresh and floral, with dark fruit and hints of balsamic carrying through to the palate. Notes of wet greenery and mushrooms were suggested as we took note of the youthful tannins. Wine number two was quite different, incorporating a sweeter palate along with aromas of chocolate, blueberry, and “cinnamon raisin bread”. It was richer in flavour due in large part to the chocolate notes, and slightly tighter and more tannic than the first wine; suggestion was made that this wine could stand more time in the cellar.

Without further ado the wines were unmasked to reveal Zinfandels from BC’s own Inniskillin as well as California’s Ravens Wood Winery. I had actually just tasted the Inniskillin days before at Village VQA Wines Kitsilano, so was pleased to see it again as part of our meal, in an unexpectedly successful pairing with curry. The big character and spicy notes of Zinfandel make it a natural pairing, but there being so little found in BC (Road 13 used to produce a varietal version, and Desert Hills still does) we were all surprised and impressed. It turns out the fresh and floral first wine was the Inniskillin version, from the 2009 vintage, and the second wine – a candidate for further aging – came from California’s 2007 vintage. Given the differences between the two wines it was hard to pick a favourite, although many of us leaned towards the richer Ravens Wood version. In any case, it was another illuminating investigation into how BC can put a unique spin on the signature grape varieties of other regions from around the world.

I have to admit I was looking forward to the dessert course in particular – it being my own contribution to the meal – and I could see that my wine selection would continue with the rarities theme we were developing. Unlike in many other cases, for this dish I had the food selected long before the wine: having not had the chance to enjoy Dark Chocolate Tart with Gingersnap Crust over the holidays I was very happy to finally get to share this mouth-watering recipe. Finding a wine pairing for this recipe was quite the challenge, as chocolate often demands red, while ginger flavours pair best with aromatic whites. I also wanted to contribute something entirely unique, so I soon settled on icewine – a style which had not yet been served as part of our wine club. Although some of the highly regarded Riesling icewines from Mission Hill and Nk’Mip were originally on my radar I was excited to discover that Tantalus produces a rare Syrah icewine. A quick call to the winery put me in touch with Swirl Yaletown where one of the last bottles in Vancouver could be found!

The rich dark chocolate tart dusted with cocoa was naturally spectacular – hard to go wrong with a recipe like that – but the icewine was the star of the course. A touch of white cranberry balsamic on the nose revealed an extremely well balanced nectar with bright fruit and crisp acidity, rich in flavours of grape and crab apple jelly. In fact, we were all a little dismayed at how much we liked it: I think we secretly hoped it wouldn’t be so impressive, and then none of us would be tempted to buy more icewine in the future! Unfortunately now that we have a taste for excellence we’ll have to be extra judicious with our budgets as we begin to taste our way through the heretofore unexplored realm of these pricey Canadian gems. Although the challenge to surprise and stump each other continues to increase in difficulty, I’m looking forward to more treats such as these as we begin another year!

Holiday Wine with Friends and Family

For fans of great wine the holiday season represents an excellent opportunity to open up some of those special bottles you’ve been saving all year long, or perhaps significantly longer! While you don’t need a particular reason to share and savour a great bottle of wine, I know that I find myself looking for an excuse that Christmastime joyously provides. While we partook in more than a few delicious wines throughout the month of December below are a few of the standouts from closer to Christmas Day itself.

Road 13 2007 Jackpot Chardonnay: On Christmas Eve we noshed on butternut squash and spinach risotto alongside a bottle of Road 13’s top-tier Chardonnay. Now that the winery has shifted to blends, it’s actually their only Chardonnay, as the “Stemwinder” Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc blend takes the place of an entry-level varietal. The current (2009) vintage won gold at the fall BC Wine Awards, and at the time of release the 2007 received some high praise as well from reviewers such as Anthony Gismondi, John Schreiner, and Daenna Van Mulligen. Opening the bottle it becomes obvious that this is an oaked Chardonnay that is not ashamed to admit it. While at first the oak notes were a little too dominant, they became more subdued with breathing time in the glass, and the orchard fruit notes – apple in particular – emerged for us to enjoy. I’ve got a bottle of the 2008 vintage, which won gold at the 2010 Canadian Wine Awards, but may not ever see the 2009 vintage as only 115 cases were produced. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that our local VQA stores manage to acquire a little bit!

8th Generation 2010 “Integrity” Frizzante: We enjoyed this wine on Christmas day as we brunched on sourdough French Toast and opened gifts through the afternoon. The successor to 8th Generation’s first Frizzante from 2009 added Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay. I have to admit that I was a little disappointed when I first tried it last spring, as it didn’t seem to show the mouth-watering purity of flavour that the first Frizzante Chardonnay did. However, after several months aging I think the blend has settled into much greater harmony, and the sharp edges following bottling have smoothed out. The delicate fruit flavours have emerged, and the creamy palate and fine bubbles make it very food friendly. Considering the winery is not yet sold out (as they are with the Pinot Noir-based Frizzante Rose “Confidence”), now may be the best time to buy some – I know I’m motivated to search for what remains in stores around town.

Tinhorn Creek 2009 2Bench White: Our Christmas dinner white wine, suggested by Icon Wines to pair with a vegetarian Christmas. Although I have a bottle of the 2010 vintage they initially recommended, I felt it was a good time to open the 2009 I had been saving. Winemaker Sandra Oldfield produces her white blend to be relatively ageable, so there’s no need to drink the current vintage immediately out of concern the fruit will fade over time. It seems obvious that Sandra makes the 2Bench White as an ideal food-pairing for West Coast dishes, as it’s said to partner well with creamy dishes, seafood, and sushi; with other reviewers recommending Asian cuisine and Indian food, all quite prevalent here in Vancouver! I always love the approachability and balance of this wine, regardless of vintage – it’s one of those few “go-to” wines I can always depend on for many situations. The 2009 still has plenty of life left in it, while perhaps harder to find in stores than the equally tasty 2010, which still appears on shelves.

Orofino 2010 Gamay: I picked out this small lot (only 75 cases) Gamay several weeks in advance as our Christmas dinner red. It was an easy choice given the high-quality approach I know Orofino takes in their winemaking, and the bottle notes even suggested “roast turkey with savoury side dishes”! We were planning on Tofurkey, but I was fairly confident the wine wouldn’t discriminate too severely, and we weren’t disappointed: unlike the (great bargain) Mt. Boucherie Gamay Noir with which I made a most delicious maple cranberry sauce, Orofino’s take was much drier. It was an ideal pairing for the type of meal one enjoys on Christmas, with bright fresh flavours to balance the food, and some fun little touches like the cream-soda aromas rightfully mentioned on the label. Although a painfully small amount was produced, it might still be found in some private stores such as Firefly, where I got my bottle; turkey dinner not required for enjoyment!

Mission Hill 2007 Perpetua: This Chardonnay comes from Mission Hill’s highest tier of wines and with the $40 price to match. For the price you get a wine considered by many to be one of the province’s best and most representative Chardonnays – which is Mission Hill’s goal no doubt. I get at least one bottle each year to cellar for a special occasion, and on Boxing Day we hosted an old friend of mine for some baked brie, and creamy cauliflower-mushroom pot pie – as special an occasion as any. I recall the 2006 being more to my liking, similar to the verdict of Liam Carrier at Icon Wines, but I think a little oxidation may have complicated the situation. The closed nose and unusually deep colour suggested some sort of imperfection, but it did clear up with time and became cleaner and fruitier, with strong hints of the complexity that Anthony Gismondi described in 2009. Fortunately I have two bottles of the 2008 vintage so I should stand a much better chance of ensuring an unbiased sample when I open them over the next year.

CedarCreek 2008 Platinum Pinot Noir: My friend brought this acclaimed bottle alongside an Osoyoos Larose 2007 Grand Vin; although I had to disappoint him in suggesting we cellar the Grand Vin a little while longer, the CedarCreek quickly soothed us all. CedarCreek received a well-deserved gold medal for this wine at the InterVin International Wine Awards, along with silver at the 2010 Canadian Wine Awards, but only just released the wine recently after selling off the 2007 vintage (itself no slouch in the quality department). The winery released it at just the right time however, as I tend to agree with Daenna Van Mulligen that it is an outstanding wine. We really enjoyed the smooth texture and clean juicy berry flavours, and I was particularly pleased knowing that another bottle would likely soon be on its way to me in the February shipment of the CedarCreek Platinum Club.

December Wine Club: Holiday Festivities

Christmas was on everyone’s mind when the three couples that comprise our wine/dinner club gathered for the final event of 2011 earlier this month. As hosts, my wife and I sought out a festive entree that helped to celebrate the season, and made sure to decorate with gusto, from the tablecloth to the Christmas Crackers. As a bonus appetizer I whipped up a little baked Brie with cranberry caramelized onions to enjoy while we exchanged gifts before everyone split up for their holiday travel: we were honoured to receive a valuable Edible Canada gift card, and my wife received a handy book light and a beautiful pen. As for myself, since the exchange I’ve been busy with tryouts for the contents of my new flask – can you believe I didn’t have one – and have settled on Madeira; could there be a bottle of CedarCreek Platinum “M” in my future? We loved picking out gifts for our friends, including Whiskey Stones, Evan Williams Egg Nog, and a very exciting Molecular Gastronomy Kit, plus a few treats for the new baby: can anyone resist buying a baby toque with antlers on it?

Finally one of our guests (who shall remain unnamed) began to recover from what sounded like a truly horrific hangover – courtesy of enthusiastically hosting his own Christmas party the night before – and we sat down to the appetizer course accompanied by Stag’s Hollow 2010 Viognier. The floral and spicy aromas of the wine nicely complemented the rice paper wraps stuffed with broccoli, coconut, tofu, and lime mayonnaise. Stag’s Hollow recently received a Silver Medal for their Viognier at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards, and we all appreciated the smooth texture and balanced acidity from a wine that expresses its varietal character very well.

For the main course I had elected on Pumpkin Baked Ziti with Caramelized Onion Sage Crumb Topping, an easy and delicious holiday comfort food from the excellent cookbook “Veganomicon” (ironically “un-veganized” through the use of Ricotta cheese instead of the equally tasty tofu-based substitute in the original recipe). To balance the creamy pasta we served on the side a light mixed green salad with cranberry vinaigrette and candied pecans. It being such a festive season I couldn’t stop at just one wine pairing, especially as I had just received my first Painted Rock Wine Club shipment mere days before, which included the delicious 2010 Chardonnay. Although it’s a Chardonnay that can easily age for a few years I wanted to share a bottle with my friends at present so we could all try it together. John Schreiner reviewed Painted Rock’s new releases last month and reported that the new Chardonnay possesses dramatic aromas and lively flavours, and we certainly enjoyed the golden colour and creamy texture alongside aromas and flavours of lemon pie, pineapple, and dried mango. Following up the tropical freshness of the Painted Rock I brought out a more mature Chardonnay from the 2007 vintage of Nk’Mip’s Qwam Qwmt series. Back in 2009 Anthony Gismondi suggested it would continue to improve in bottle, and judging by his descriptors of hazelnut, baked apple, vanilla, and orange rind it was quite apt that our guests declared “it tastes like Christmas!” The soft and creamy mouthfeel conjured up additional comparisons to vanilla ice cream with maple syrup, and gave everyone a warm and cozy feeling inside as we finished our entrees.

The meal wasn’t complete yet though, and the festive theme continued into dessert with a cranberry bonanza helped along by The Fort Wine Company. We certainly don’t have any hard and fast rules mandating grape wine, so the dessert crew decided to try out a red cranberry wine from this Langley winery to pair with their cranberry upside-down cake. On top of the brightly coloured cake were generous heaps of whipped cream and some bright fresh cranberries. The wine was a bit of a surprise as it smelled sweeter than it actually tastes, which is fairly tart and dry. Overall the pairing worked well because the relatively low sugar in the cake was in balance with the flavour profile of the wine, which certainly wouldn’t have complemented a sweeter dish nearly as well.

With our final mutual meal of 2011 complete we toasted to a hugely entertaining, educational, and successful year together sharing so many great wines. The new release of Sumac Ridge’s Steller’s Jay Brut (2007) served our toasting purposes admirably with lots of citrus blossom aromas and a pleasing mousse texture that was very easy to enjoy. There are currently a fair number of magnums of the similar 2006 Steller’s Jay to be found around town for very reasonable prices ($35-$45), which holds a lot of potential for a great value New Year’s wine. I know I’ll be celebrating the upcoming year as an opportunity to experience even more of the passion and talent shown throughout the BC wine industry!

BCWAS: Fairview Cellars Vertical Tasting

Earlier this month the BC Wine Appreciation Society hosted a tasting of wines by Fairview Cellars, the small but celebrated winery run by Bill Eggert. The tasting was focused on a very rare seven-year vertical of Bill’s premier Meritage blend “The Bear”, ranging from 2003-2009 vintages: a “Meritage Christmas” if you will! This event was particularly noteworthy as it represented the first tasting since I joined BCWAS that has focused on just one wine; most tastings cover a winery’s larger portfolio, often spread across just one or two vintages. Getting the chance to watch one wine, under one winemaker develop over seven years was a valuable lesson in winemaking and British Columbian viticulture.

I myself have been collecting Fairview Cellars wines for only a couple of years, having been first turned on to Bill’s talents by Icon Wines. After getting the chance to actually taste the wines at several events, and finally at the winery itself this summer, I’ve been hooked on the many superb small lot wines Bill produces. Icon Wines’ Liam Carrier visited Fairview Cellars last year for a barrel tasting, and I bumped into him in person at Bill’s table at the VQA Fall Release “Colour”, where we both thoroughly enjoyed the 2009 wines. (Icon Wines recently named Fairview Cellars’ “The Wrath” Cabernet Sauvignon their 2011 Icon Wine of the Year.) For even more information about Fairview Cellars and Bill Eggert have a look at the December BCWAS Newsletter, which features not only an interview with Bill, but a story by BCWAS Events Coordinator Kristal Kaulbach about the ageability of Bill’s wines.

Going into the tasting this month attendees were not only treated to seven different vintages of The Bear, but also component tastings of the 2008 Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, the primary components of the blend (starting in 2008 Bill introduced Malbec and Petit Verdot in small quantities). The Listel Hotel provided delicious appetizers to complement the wines, and guests enjoyed beef tenderloin with smoked chocolate and cumin, grilled mushroom & eggplant Aranncini with sweet smoked tomato puree, Little Qualicum Blue Claire cheese and stone fruit compote, and braised Peace Country lamb with caramelized onion tart. Once again the staff at the Listel, along with the many BCWAS volunteers who set up the room provided for an excellent experience – good thing too as the event was sold out to one of the largest audiences yet!

Similar tastings hosted by the BCWAS have typically involved the winemaker and/or proprietor guiding guests through the wine flight glass by glass, but Bill – true to his nature – threw caution to the wind and let us individually taste however we wished after a short introduction. Walking around the room he interjected now and then with factoids but mostly just chatted with individual tables on a one-to-one basis. As we tasted through the Bear vertical one thing became immediately obvious: Bill’s consistency was going to make for a challenging experience differentiating the wines. Limited vintage variation was present (Bill pointed out 2003, 2005, and 2009 were particularly hot years) but overall the wines were unusually similar year to year – even the colour remained remarkably consistent! Having tasted some BC reds from vintages in the early 2000’s I’ve seen the loss of primary fruit that can occur at times, so it was very relieving to smell the rich, almost Port-like, aromas coming off the 2003 Bear. The wines slowly got more tannic as they got younger, but overall they all showed the ability to continue to age well for years to come. Even Bill was pleasantly surprised, having not engaged in such a vertical tasting himself for quiet a while!

While Bill doesn’t often widely publicize the release of single varietal bottlings, they do show up in stores from time to time, the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon being the most highly publicized and available. Our three varietal samples from the 2008 vintage were all quite tasty on their own, and helped illustrate how the final blend is constructed. The Cabernet Franc showed herbal characteristics and possessed the brightest fruit, while the Cabernet Sauvignon was rich and smoky, with a hint of sulphur on the nose. The most exciting varietal for me was the Merlot, as had I not know its identity in advance I might have been tempted to suggest it was Syrah given the spicy, peppery notes that sprung forth from the glass. In combination with the highly talked-about delicious Bear samples the varietals showed off the talents of an industry veteran that we all felt honoured to have enjoyed. Thanks for sharing, Bill!

Birthday Beverages

To celebrate my birthday last week I opened a few bottles of great BC wine with friends: some were new releases I was eager to share, and others came out of the cellar for our enjoyment. A Rhone theme became apparent when we started with a three-year vertical of Viognier, and moved on to a bevy of Syrah; finally finishing with a Meritage blend and a delicious fortified wine from the Naramata Bench.

A late lunch of sushi was an excellent opener for the Sandhill Small Lots Viognier I had collected over the past couple of years. At the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards Sandhill dominated the competition by winning Winery of the Year and scooping both Red and White Wines of the Year. The 2007 Small Lots Syrah was Red of the Year, and the 2008 Small Lots Viognier was named White Wine of the Year, prompting me to find a few bottles. My final bottle was now ready to be opened along with the 2009 and 2010 Small Lots Viogniers. The 2008 was first and I was happy to see that two and half years of bottle age had done little to dampen the complex, honeyed flavour profile. The golden colour was quite appealing, and while the wine was sweet, the acidity kept it balanced and retained the freshness for which it received so many accolades two years ago.

When it came time to serve the 2009 Viognier I was dismayed to see a much darker-coloured wine in the glass – not a good sign. Whatever fault (likely oxidation) had assaulted this bottle had led to a flat and flabby texture with none of the bright fruit and intense flavours of the earlier, much more well-preserved vintage. Although I was disappointed it also represented an exciting learning opportunity to witness how a wine can go bad – the photo below barely does justice to the striking difference in colour (from left to right: 2008, 2009, 2010). Fortunately the 2010 vintage redeemed the flight and cleansed our palate with the brightest, freshest flavours and an almost slightly effervescent texture. I was glad to have enjoyed the final wine as recommended – in it’s youth.

As the night grew longer it came time for a few richer reds to complement the dizzying cheese platter we assembled – arranged geographically for our own amusement. I was able to pull another Canadian Wine Awards champion from the cellar in the form of Jackson Triggs’ 2006 Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz, the 2008 Red Wine of the Year. With a nose rich in dark berries and peppery mesquite it lived up to the glowing review Anthony Gismondi had given it back in 2008, with equally impressive “glossy textures” today.

Those smooth tannins were not expected in the other two Syrahs available – both from the 2009 vintage – but each represented wines I wanted to test with friends in the present before aging my remaining bottles. The Church & State Coyote Bowl Syrah continued the Canadian Wine Awards theme, as it only recently was announced as the 2011 Red Wine of the Year. The group described a wide variety of characteristics including aromas of blueberries, blue cheese, and toast, while the flavour profile after decanting took on an herbal, floral note somewhat reminiscent of Cabernet Franc. It was much mellower than I recalled from earlier tastings, and showed how decanting can sometimes change a wine substantially. A change had also taken place in the Fairview Cellars Bucket o’ Blood we enjoyed next: from initial aromas of blood, balsamic vinegar, toffee, and dried roses it actually became fruitier after decanting. This Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon blend is likely a promising cellar-dweller, and winemaker Bill Eggert suggests opening after 2013, but I just couldn’t wait to share a wine with such an entertaining name! Although we didn’t have any tangy ribs to pair with it as Liam Carrier suggests, some of the more flavourful cheeses did just fine alongside this rich and delicious wine.

With our short exploration of the grapes of Rhone complete we moved on to the big blend of CedarCreek 2006 “Colbert Edition” Meritage. A few years ago CedarCreek acquired some very hard-to-get barrels made from 350-year-old French oak and carefully selected a Merlot-dominant blend to age for 21 months. The 144 cases produced are few and far between but as a Platinum Club member I was very pleased to receive this storied wine. Aromas of smoky berries gave way to a powerful wine, brighter than expected, and quite smooth and approachable already. The Colbert Meritage recently ranked sixth at the Sip Wines Icon Red Tasting, as well as receiving a silver medal at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards. Although we were surprised at the approachability (albeit after decanting) the consensus seems to be that it could continue to age a few more years.

It being my birthday I decided on a final wine to sweeten the evening: Kettle Valley Starboard. This Port-style fortified wine is made from Malbec and Petit Verdot grapes, and has recently been renamed “Caboose” to fit with other train-themed names from Kettle Valley. It’s hard to go wrong with a fortified blend of those two rich grapes, and the “long elegant finish” of Starboard provided for some mellow reflecting time as we surveyed the decimated cheese platter and numerous empty glasses and decanters. With even more great wines in the cellar – and always in need of room for more – I see no reason not to make this an annual celebration!