Collectibles: November 2014

The autumn red wine releases have continued at full pace, marked by newly released vintages of some consistent gems. Some don’t last for long on store shelves (even at the winery), so I had to act fast. A few special releases provided some pleasant surprise recently as well, proving irresistible for a collector like me!

Orofino 2012 Scout Vineyard Syrah: Like last month’s Pinot Noir purchase, I may end up with a bottle or two in a future Collector’s Club shipment, but given the sample I enjoyed recently, that would be most welcome. The beautiful, vibrant violet colour yields a perfumed vanilla nose and juicy black cherry flavours; mouth-watering minerality and sweet, ripe fruit from a great vintage. Given the vineyard size and previous releases I would guess about 250 cases only. Swirl VQA Store $29

Okanagan Crush Pad 2013 Samantha Syrah: The fourth release in OCP’s “Wine Campus” Series, in which they invite the Vancouver International Wine Festival’s Sommelier of the Year to craft a small lot wine for charity. Samantha Rahn from Whistler’s Araxi received the honour in 2013, and decided on Syrah that fall, with grapes from Oliver’s Cerquiera Vineyard. The wine was just released this month – only 150 cases spread across selected stores and restaurants. Brewery Creek Liquor Store $31

Burrowing Owl 2012 Cabernet Franc: After a late summer bottling run at Burrowing Owl, a few new red wines were released this fall. I hunted down the Malbec locally last month, but sought the renowned Cabernet Franc directly from the winery given its popularity. The Franc is often a high point in the winery’s portfolio, consistently garnering prominent awards, including a Lieutenant Governor’s Award for the 2010 vintage. A few accolades for the 2012 (an excellent vintage in BC) have already cropped up from the critics at WineAlign, praising the wine’s flavours and varietal focus. Winery Direct $33

Burrowing Owl 2011 Meritage: Because Burrowing Owl ships wine in quantities as low as two bottles, I was able to obtain the Meritage and aforementioned Cabernet Franc with ease. We can’t all buy case lots every time, and I appreciate the opportunity to add another vintage to my Meritage vertical, now with a full six bottles (2006-2011). The wine is a blend of nearly equal thirds Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 2% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The varieties were aged independently in oak for a year before blending, then another nine months in barrel, followed by a year in bottle before release. Winery Direct $45

Clos du Soleil 2010 Estate Reserve: After picking up the premier “Signature” red blend last month, I couldn’t turn down an opportunity for Clos du Soleil’s top tier reserve wine. In 2009 Winemaker Ann Sperling first bottled four barrels (100 cases) of what was then called “Eclipse” Winemaker’s Reserve. Now, 50 cases of what is now labelled simply Estate Reserve have been released, a miniscule quantity by any standard. Naturally the top shelf price has kept sales at a slow pace, but it still won’t last long in the tiny handful of stores lucky enough for an allocation. Swirl VQA Store $60

Church & State 2012 Coyote Bowl Malbec: Last year the first varietal Malbec (from 2011) was released by Church & State, with Proprietor Kim Pullen describing it as the best wine they had ever made. After being named Best of Category at the All Canadian Wine Championships, the initial release price of $35 was bumped up to $75 in short order, but the 150 cases produced still sold out readily. With 275 cases now released from an even better vintage, I leapt on the opportunity when the winery brought a mere two cases to a tasting at Swirl in Yaletown. Swirl VQA Store $35

Poplar Grove 2011 Cabernet Franc: Poplar Grove prides themselves on having the means to bottle age their wines before release, so the 2011 reds are only now coming on the market (and only some of them at that). Amongst the new releases is the highly desirable Cabernet Franc, which sold out so quickly it’s already gone from the winery website! A relatively small production of 450 cases came out of the cool 2011 vintage. Anthony Gismondi describes it as “the most fragrant yet” with years of improvement ahead as well. Fortunately the wine can be found in a some well-stocked private stores. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $44

Poplar Grove 2011 CSM: The traditional French blend called GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) is turned on its head with this cheeky and completely different re-imagining featuring Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon-Syrah-Merlot. The proprietary blend is made in very small quantities (250 cases) so it never shows up for sale outside the winery. Fortunately I have a friend in Penticton generous enough to nab me a bottle! Precise proportions of each variety in the blend are not typically made public, but one assumes the winemaking team selected the best ratio for the vintage. Winery Direct $35

Poplar Grove 2011 Syrah: A third new red release from the same vintage is Poplar Grove’s Syrah, which occasionally flies under the radar given the winery’s prevalent Merlot and sought-after Cabernet Franc. John Schreiner’s recent review of the Poplar Grove/Monster Vineyards portfolio remarked upon the bold, spicy, fruity profile found in this recent release, strongly consistent with past vintages. A pair of silver medals from this year’s National Wine Awards and BC Wine Awards adorn this wine already. Like the Cabernet Franc, only 450 cases were produced, but fortunately it does often make its way into stores. Winery Direct $35

BCWAS: Church & State Winery Dinner

A change of pace for the BC Wine Appreciation Society took place this month upon the occasion of a winery dinner celebrating Church & State Wines. The annual spring winemaker’s dinner has been a tradition for many years, and typically serves as the only dinner outside of the fall Bus Tour. However, with the assistance of additional member volunteers the Society was enthused to host nearly four dozen guests at the renowned Kitsilano Daily Kitchen for six creative courses of culinary delight. Church & State Marketing Manager John Pullen and Vancouver Sales Representative Jason Fung joined the dinner to take in the perfect pairings assembled by Chef Brian Fowke and his talented team.

As tablemates introduced one another and friends reconnected we received a glass of Cuvée Blanc 2013, Church & State’s aromatic white blend. This combination of Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and a bit of Chardonnay Musqué provided a fresh and fruity welcome as Chef Fowke described his culinary philosophy. Based on his regular market and farm visits the restaurant presents a new menu every day, ensuring they use only the freshest, most seasonal produce, meats, and fish from sustainable local producers. Local Albacore tuna was the inspired pairing for the bright Cuvée Blanc, served Poke-style with tamari, sesame, Bird’s Eye chillies, citrus, and fermented fish sauce. The dish exuded freshness in perfect parallel with the citrus flavours and long, peachy finish on the wine, providing a marvellous primer on Chef Fowke’s gift for complementary creations.

With our palates superbly roused by both wine and food we soon detected the intoxicating aromas of our next course. As easily identifiable glasses of Chardonnay were served the unmistakable aroma of truffle emerged from the kitchen. In varietally-corrected Riedel stemware we received Coyote Bowl Chardonnay 2012, one of two vineyard-specific oaked Chardonnay from Church & State’s Black Sage Bench location (the other being from the nearby Gravelbourg vineyard). Soon there appeared wide bowls of mouth-watering soup – Roasted Cream of Winter Cauliflower – accentuated with butter-poached Bell Harbour lobster, wild Rainbow Trout caviar, and shaved truffle! The Chardonnay provided for yet another superb pairing, in what was to become a happy pattern, with a toasty nose awash in caramel apple aromas. The creamy soup encouraged a citrus character from the wine, in which a full texture and very well balanced acidity brought great acclaim from the Chardonnay connoisseurs in our midst. It’s debatable whether a drop of soup, morsel of lobster, or bead of caviar remained!

For our third course we received direct evidence of Chef Fowke’s local focus, as the expected Quadra Island shellfish stew was foregone due to recent stormy conditions hampering fishery operations. His preferred provider was unable to obtain sufficient qualities and quantities, necessitating an immediate and intense consideration of alternate options given the selected wine pairing. Church & State’s Trebella White was on the menu, a 2013 Rhone-inspired blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, with a touch of Viognier. This highly distinctive wine was ultimately paired with Chef Fowke’s choice of Rare-seared Yarrow Meadows Duck Risotto, including Northern Spy apple, roasted garlic, and caramelized lemon. The Trebella’s rich and elegant aromas of citrus flowers with stone and tropical fruit had no trouble keeping up, and the intense flavours and supremely well-rounded, integrated palate demonstrated why the wine was recently named Best White Blend at the WineAlign World Wine Awards of Canada.

Three courses in it was hard to believe we had only reached the halfway mark, having enjoyed so much already! But Church & State’s legendary southern Okanagan reds had yet to make an appearance, so we braced ourselves for more pleasures of the palate. Jumping right into the midst we received the 2009 Quintessential, the winery’s icon red blend, developing nicely after some time in bottle (with many more promising years ahead). The complex blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec was matched to Pan-roasted Peace Country Bavette of Elk, served atop creamy corn polenta, bordelaise sauce, and sautéed woodland mushrooms.

In last year’s SIP Wines annual “Icon Red Tasting”, the 2009 Quintessential was named runner-up, while just recently the 2011 vintage came out on top in the blind tasting’s seventh iteration. This comes on the heels of it being awarded the Canadian Red Trophy (and Gold Medal) from the International Wine Challenge in the UK. The first vintage of Quintessential was created in 2005, but the wine has been racking up an impressive array of accolades in a few short years. Our opportunity to sample this gem was a cherished one, providing aromas of toasty dark cherry and mocha before the intense dark fruit flavours and a smooth texture complemented by the rare Elk. Without food the tannins became more evident, showing the relative youth of this wine (the current vintage in stores) – the winery in fact believes several more years of bottle development can be expected.

In 2011 Church & State was proud to celebrate their 2009 Coyote Bowl Syrah having been named Canada’s Best Red Wine at the Canadian Wine Awards. As its predecessor was being feted across the country, the 2011 vintage was just being harvested from the same outstanding vineyard. That wine, released earlier this year, has now gone on to win a Gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards, as well as being named Best in Class at the 2014 Pacific Rim International Wine Competition. As Church & State doesn’t typically produce any dedicated dessert-style wines the 2011 Syrah was tapped to provide for our final sips, with Extra Dark Chocolate & Preserved Okanagan Cherry Crêpes. Accessorized by Chantilly cream, Bourbon vanilla, and Maple sugar, the crêpes and chocolate ganache were enchanting on their own, but rose to another level with the Syrah. The wine’s intense black pepper aromas opened up to an all-encompassing cherry extravaganza alongside the preserved cherries, and demonstrating the complete success of a dry table wine for dessert!

With rich aromas and flavours of cherry and chocolate still circulating we received generous plates of local artisan cheeses to enjoy as the meal concluded. Any remaining wine available was soon disbursed as guests traded opinions on their favourite dish – a challenge for many no doubt! There were well-deserved acknowledgments and applause for Chef Fowke’s talented staff, and to those who helped organize the event for the benefit of our members. Special thanks to Church & State’s John Pullen and Jason Fung, and to the hardworking BCWAS Executive members for bringing this spectacular dinner to fruition!

Laughing Stock Blind Trust Vertical

A recent evaluation of my wine collection revealed a growing vertical of Laughing Stock’s Blind Trust Red. Without any firm plans for what to do with this bounty I held on to the bottles and the collection grew. By the time the 2012 vintage was released this summer I was in possession of six uninterrupted years of this mysterious and variable wine – so named because the contents of the blend are kept hidden. With half a case at my disposal and a valuable educational opportunity at hand I invited several colleagues from Swirl Wine Store to join me in sampling some of Naramata’s finest.

Laughing Stock’s Blind Trust Red is similar to a traditional second wine in one sense, using the wine not selected for the more iconic “Portfolio”. The winery is clear in stating that “the barrels for Portfolio and Blind Trust are treated exactly the same for the first 15 months.” There are simply often leftover proportions once Portfolio’s taste profile and balance has been finalized. These remaining barrels are put together into a new and unique wine from which one is asked to trust the judgment of winemaker David Enns. However, in recent years the wine has taken on a bit more character of its own, by including grapes such as Syrah, not part of the Bordeaux-style Portfolio blend. Blind Trust can often be more approachable in the present than Portfolio, but it ages just as marvellously in the eyes of the winery (see this Maturation Chart), as we were about to find out.

The first vintage of Blind Trust Red was produced from the 2005 harvest, two years after the first (2003) Portfolio, now in its tenth vintage (2012). Our vertical began with the 2007, generally considered to be a very good vintage in the Okanagan. A nice whiff of vanilla was my first impression upon opening the bottle, which I double decanted along with the other five before everyone arrived. Delving into the wine with the group produced assessments of aromatic blackberry and blueberry, plus mild hints of bell pepper as well. A delightfully smooth texture revealed warm, rich flavours mirroring the nose, with accents of black licorice; an early favourite already! A few guesses ultimately led to the actual content, revealed by peeling back the foil on the neck: 50% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 22% Cabernet Franc.

From 2008 the aromatic introduction was that of black olives; it was deemed immediately more savoury on the nose, reminding many of a winter stew. Still, underneath those meaty notes some chocolate and raspberries crept through; with no peppers evident in what was deemed an improvement. The palate was slightly more acidic than the 2007, from a cooler vintage, but also seemingly sweeter with the same luxurious, well-aged character. The Merlot component was revealed to have increased substantially to 78% that year, with 13% Malbec as a pleasant surprise, and only 9% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our third bottle came from the legendary 2009 vintage, a spectacularly hot summer, despite the cool spring’s late bud-break and an early October frost, which combined to shorten the season by four weeks. Aromas of dried fruit and chocolate presented themselves immediately, with a savoury sausage undercurrent. The summer heat was apparent on the hot, nearly over-ripe palate however, which put some tasters off for being too brash and boozy. That year saw 70% Merlot joined by 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Malbec. Not a favourite thus far, prompting recollections of the more pleasant first two wines, and providing some consternation about the outcome of many other BC wines from the same vintage still awaiting my attention.

The following year, 2010 saw another relatively cool vintage similar to 2008, with harvest only getting started in mid-October (after a cool, wet September), and dragging out into November. The nose on this wine showed off spice-rack aromas and earthy character with leather hints. The palate was awash in cranberries and sour cherry, perceived as the most tart wine of the evening, and pushing 15% alcohol as well. One has to wonder how much of the overall profile was influenced by the inclusion of 6% Syrah for the first time, which we discovered alongside 62% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Malbec. A low of 1,675 cases of Portfolio were produced in 2010, and the Blind Trust followed suit, with a mere 765 cases (versus more than one thousand in every other vintage, and as many as 1,620 in 2009).

The feared 2011 vintage was next up, from the coolest season since Laughing Stock was founded, and roughly considered a poor year overall. The surprise of the night was at hand though, in a youthful, fruit forward wine that had us all raving! Aromas of mulling spices led into a delightfully lighter-bodied, lower-alcohol (13.6%) palate, smoothly textured and soft, with very nicely balanced acidity and a fresh, grapey finish. The complex blend of five varieties brought Merlot down to 47%, while Malbec jumped up to 31%, followed by 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Syrah. The 2011 vintage saw Laughing Stock’s elegant Portfolio awarded a prestigious Lt. Governor’s Award; combined with observations from this Blind Trust, we are reminded that every vintage has something to offer that may surprise!

The 2012 Blind Trust was only released this past summer – I received two bottles in my June Preferred Share Wine Club shipment. After a few ups and downs in the years beforehand, 2012 proved to be a very solid growing season, long and warm, with no major problems during harvest. Opening the bottle provided for a waft of cedar, followed by blackberry and black currant aromas after aeration, with pleasant floral hints around the edges. The palate provided for our first noticeable tannin, with bright but balanced acidity and well-rounded fruit character that’s drinking quite well given its youth. It turned out that Malbec was again a major contributor, at 32% following Merlot’s lead of 49%, with 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Cabernet Franc rounding out the blend.

Six half-empty bottles provided fodder for several reassessments as we nibbled on the delicious food on offer: guests had provided a range of cheese and dips, pâté, home-made mushroom and beef empanadas, and even wild-harvested venison sausage! The favourites were soon obvious without discussion, as the 2008 and then 2007 bottles emptied out, followed soon thereafter by the 2011. The young but promising 2012 found itself in fourth place, while the overall assessment put 2009 and 2010 at the bottom in the formal ranking, leaving us all quite enlightened. Drinking each bottle independently over the years could have drawn out the pleasure, but would never compare to sharing them all with good friends and food in such an entertaining event.

Collectibles: October 2014

While fruitfully working through a bit of a cellar backlog this fall (making room for new vintages) I still found the time to purchase a few bottles I couldn’t resist. Several new and recently released wines caught my attention, either on store shelves or in the news. I lucked out on a few, and others took a fair amount of hunting to track down across Vancouver.

Sage Hills 2013 Pinot Noir: I scooped up one of the last bottles on the shelf of this new release; only 191 cases were produced from Rick Thrussell’s organic Summerland vineyard. John Schreiner recently reported the wine was almost certainly released prematurely (with many years of development ahead), but Rick bowed to pressure “after his debut 2012 Pinot Noir was something of a sensation.” Swirl VQA Store – $45

Orofino 2012 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir: Keeping Sage Hills company is Orofino’s 2012 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir, a bright wine bursting with strawberry aromas and flavours. John & Virginia Weber grow five different Pinot Noir clones in their Cawston vineyard, and aged this blend of all five for 16 months in French oak. I may end up receiving a bottle in my next Orofino Collector’s Club shipment but that shouldn’t be much of a problem at all! Swirl VQA Store – $32

See Ya Later Ranch 2012 Rover: The latest release from a popular and widely available entry level Syrah. Anthony Gismondi has provided some impressive praise for past vintages, such as the 2008, noting it’s a wine that seems to get better and better every year. When the 2012 was recently awarded the new “Premier’s Award” for best wine of the entire BC Wine Awards, it seemed only reasonable to cellar a bottle for the future. At present it’s a bit disjointed, with alternating earthy and fruity notes that haven’t yet melded, but I’m looking forward to seeing what a couple of years aging can yield. Swirl VQA Store – $22

Thornhaven 2012 Syrah: After the National Wine Awards results were announced in late summer I paid close attention to the handful of Platinum medal-winners. Several BC wines made the list, including three 2012 Syrah, only one of which I hadn’t yet acquired. The bottle from Thornhaven in Summerland was more elusive, with the 2011 vintage still on VQA Store shelves. I have to admit, a Summerland appellation Syrah is a curious wine indeed, and this one has reportedly seen a brief 10 months in oak – it should prove quite interesting. Coal Harbour Liquor Store – $33

Burrowing Owl 2012 Malbec: Burrowing Owl only just introduced Malbec to their portfolio last year, with the inaugural 2011 release joining a mere handful of BC wineries producing a varietal version. The new release was bottled in August, fresh from 21 months in a mix of 80% French, and 10% each American and Hungarian oak. The dense fruit style of Burrowing Owl, combined with the excellent vintage and hand-harvesting from the winery’s Osoyoos vineyard should equate to an excellent collectible. Liberty Wines Granville Island – $37

Baillie-Grohman 2012 Cabernet Franc: The new Platinum category introduced at this fall’s BC Wine Awards is intended to award those wines judged unanimously worthy of Gold medals by all nine judges. Only five Platinum medals were handed out in September, including one to young Creston winery Baillie-Grohman. Although the winery has established estate vineyards, they still source reds from the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys: ten barrels of Cabernet Franc were obtained from an exclusive single vineyard in Osoyoos. Swirl VQA Store – $27

Fairview Cellars 2012 Cabernet Franc: On my way to the BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour in September I stopped in to Bill Eggert’s winery outside Oliver. I received the sad news that his 2012 Cabernet Franc was long since sold out. I had heard some impressive praise for the wine, no surprise given the vintage and Bill’s talent with Cabernets. I was pleasantly surprised to spot the wine afterwards on store shelves. Perusing the back label I’m pleased to see Bill has continued his practice of noting the “Best After” date; in this case it’s December 2016, which fits perfectly with my five-years-from-harvest cellaring strategy. Marquis Wine Cellars – $35

Clos du Soleil 2012 Signature: From Keremeos, Clos du Soleil’s top tier red blend was actually doubled in production for this vintage, up to 475 cases, in anticipation of implementing bottle aging from 2013 onward. While bottles may seem prevalent now, shortly after release, once it’s gone there will be a long wait for the next vintage, so stock up while you have a chance! Should I follow through with my rotating vertical strategy, I can now open the 2008. However, the Signature has proved very long-lived, so further delay will likely provide even greater enjoyment. Swirl VQA Store – $40

Poplar Grove 2009 “The Legacy”: The arrival of this 2009 red blend is in fact the third vintage released this year, starting with the 2007, the ethereal 2008, and now the nearly sold-out 2009 – the winery appears to be a victim of their own success! Production in 2008 and 2009 was cut in half (500 cases), and the 2010 will likely see similar numbers, keeping me anxious to avoid a hole in my vertical going forward. At least I get to drink the 2005 now in order to make room for the new bottle! Swirl VQA Store – $50

BC Wine Dinner: Autumn Flavours

After a very busy summer the four couples in our wine club finally got the chance to gather in one place for dinner recently. It was a chance to catch up and share some culinary creations over a few bottles of BC wine. The autumn weather must have inspired all of us in a similar fashion, as light red wines and warm comfort foods provided pleasantly pervasive. Some old favourites and a few new releases offered us plenty to discuss alongside delicious food pairings from our respective kitchens.

Some irresistible cheeses and cocktails couldn’t be turned down, while hors d’oeuvres were finalized and accessorized. What we soon discovered with glee were Walnut-Mushroom “Neat Balls” and a trio of mouth-watering dipping sauces in savoury flavours of barbecue, mustard, and marinara. These tasty little nuggets partnered with a couple of youthful red wines to get us started. The Arrowleaf 2012 Zweigelt displayed a striking amethyst colour in the glass that immediately caught my eye. The gorgeously smooth, soft fruit texture offered generous elements of leather and clove, pairing particularly well with the marinara sauce.

We next cracked open a bottle of Cellar Hand’s budget-friendly 2012 Punch Down Red for some comparative analysis. The Red, plus “Free Run White”, come from Black Hills’ second label line-up, reportedly crafted by the winery’s cellar hands themselves from a few barrels and full experimental latitude. The Punch Down Red provided some immediate contrast to the Zweigelt – jammier on the nose and palate, with a fuller body and sweeter flavours. It was quite easy-drinking and enjoyable overall, coming from the generous 2012 vintage that yielded bountiful and ripe fruit in the southern Okanagan, where Black Hills farms the Merlot, Cabernets, and Syrah found in the blend.

Having dealt with the initial hunger pangs, we settled down and prepared for the appetizer course, taken in hand by myself and my wife for this meal. Our inspiration came from the quintessential fall fruit – pumpkin! Reviewing old issues of the BC Liquor Stores TASTE Magazine I came across Baked Pumpkin and Onion Dumplings with Herb Dip, which we then accessorized with a creamy Apple and Blue Cheese Salad. Contrary to the recipe photo, our Dumplings wouldn’t stay closed, but at least the flavours stuck around to pair with Tantalus 2008 Old Vines Riesling and Orofino 2013 Gamay. Although I had the feeling either wine would pair nicely with the dish, I couldn’t resist sharing both bottles, and suspected few complaints would be voiced.

The Old Vines Riesling was released back in 2011 – fairly delayed for a 2008 white, but Tantalus likes to ensure sufficient bottle aging for this legendary wine. Even with another three years in bottle it still presented youthful vibrancy: generous citrus aromas carried through to the focused and racy palate, where petrol character emerged. Even on its own, let alone dancing with the sweet and savoury pumpkin and rich blue cheese, the wine was enough to elicit accolades around the table. Fortunately the Platinum Medal Gamay proved no slouch, providing an additional round of intensity to entertain our palates: bright, fresh cranberry and cherry fruit flavours plus a sprinkling of cinnamon spice made for another adept pumpkin partner. Orofino suggests chilled summer enjoyment – which I can vouch for with enthusiasm – but the wine’s pure enjoyment factor provides the versatility for all-year enjoyment.

As we sipped a little bit more from the four bottles already available our entree course emerged from the oven in all it’s crispy, gooey glory. Three-cheese macaroni presented by our hosts was said to contain Romano, Cheddar, Cottage cheese, and some sour cream for good measure. To calm our beating hearts some roasted Brussels Sprouts and a crisp green salad provided balance and a few vitamins on the side. Apparently the two-bottle concept was broadly in mind, as we received with glee Painted Rock 2013 Chardonnay and Moon Curser 2011 Syrah, two of my personal favourites.

John Skinner and his team at Painted Rock have been fine-tuning the Chardonnay for a few years via painstaking work in the vineyard and at harvest. Multiple passes to pick clusters at ideal ripeness and acidity are labour intensive, but the results show in the fruit forward expression that easily absorbed the 5-month French oak treatment. We relished the nicely integrated, complex palate, showing fresh citrus and stone fruit with food-friendly toasty accents. The creamy and crispy macaroni made just as nice with the Gold-medal Syrah as well, from which Winemaker Chris Tolley has coaxed generous floral cherry aromas, supported by pepper and a hint of bacon. Cherries and plum on the smooth palate led into milk chocolate raspberries at the finish, giving us plenty to observe and admire.

Chock-full of pasta we had to find room for the always anticipated dessert, an assembly of homemade meringue, ice cream, and a crunchy pretzel stick. The Skor Meringue was topped with Scotch Ice Cream, and paired to Kettle Valley’s Caboose fortified red wine, a blend of ripe Malbec and Petit Verdot from the Naramata Bench. I’m always excited to try this rich prize, produced via the Solera method, yielding a blend of many vintages that promises to  increase in complexity each year. We readily absorbed the alcoholic tingle on the wine’s yeasty nose, with a jammy character soon wafting about. Interacting with the intense ice cream produced a Kirsch character that finished with bright blueberries and plenty of satisfied smiles.

As the Caboose is presented in half-size bottles the dessert team had wisely brought two, consumed with rapidity as we wound down and remarked on the delicious meal. The creative contributions of everyone involved left us feeling very lucky once again to enjoy such great food, wine, and company!

Meyer Wine Club: October 2014

As a member of Meyer Family Vineyards’ Wine Club I receive a mixed case of wine each year, divided into three annual shipments to align with the winery’s release dates. My most recent shipment in the “Some of Everything” club category, the last for 2014, focused on Chardonnay. I’ve been waiting patiently for the 2012 vintages of Meyer’s exquisite single vineyard Chardonnays all year, reading reviews and hearing positive press, so it’s a relief to finally get my hands on them! In addition to both 2012 single vineyard wines, a new entry-level Chardonnay from the 2013 vintage was provided, plus a preview of yet to be released 2013 Pinot Noir.

The winery’s two age-worthy flagship Chardonnay (in addition to the icon “Micro Cuvee”) include one from the home vineyard on McLean Creek Road in Okanagan Falls. The ideal conditions in 2012 resulted in clean, superbly balanced grapes by the time harvest began in early October. The wine was primarily fermented in stainless steel before transfer to 100% French oak (20% new) and ten months on the lees, with a reported natural malo-lactic fermentation. I recently greatly enjoyed a bottle of the 2010 McLean Creek Road Chardonnay from my own cellar, and expect the 2012 to follow suit with similarly elegant fruit, subtle buttery character, and near-perfect balance. The winery has been proudly trumpeting their 92-point score for this wine from Beppi Crosariol in the Globe & Mail. Local Vancouver Sun critic Anthony Gismondi saw fit to award 90 points and pointedly remark the wine is “venturing down the complexity road like few of its competitors.”

In addition to the vineyard surrounding the winery in Okanagan Falls, the Meyer family own a parcel on the Naramata Bench, from which the annual “Tribute Series” Chardonnay is produced. The fifteen-year-old Old Main Road Vineyard was harvested two weeks later than the more southerly Okanagan Falls terroir in 2012, but the grapes were processed almost identically, with the only difference being 33% new oak was used. The wine was dedicated to broadcaster Kelly Hrudey, for whom the annual tribute will take the form of $5,000 from Meyer to a charity of Mr. Hrudey’s choice. Glowing reviews for this Chardonnay have also taken shape over the course of 2014, with Gismondi complimenting the fresh, light wine’s finesse. WineAlign head judge David Lawrason remarked on the “riveting” character and fruit-forward, expansive palate in his 92-point review supporting the wine’s Silver Medal at the 2014 National Wine Awards he co-led with Gismondi.

A final Chardonnay in the shipment consisted of something new – a block-specific Chardonnay from the Old Main Road Vineyard. The 2013 “Steven’s Block” Chardonnay is said to come from the steepest and coolest rows in the Naramata site, with such distinctive terroir as to justify 113 cases of small lot wine. The $24 price tag comes in below the $30 asked for the two red label bottles (and is uniquely labelled with bronze colouring), suggesting a potential mid-point between the higher end wines and the $20 blended Okanagan Valley Chardonnay. Author John Schreiner tasted the new wine in late summer and enjoyed the generous palate and crisp finish. I look forward to delving into my own bottle relatively soon, and seeing where this new product line develops in the years to come.

During a visit to Meyer as part of the BC Wine Appreciation Society’s 2012 Fall Bus Tour, tour guests were served the 2010 vintage of the winery’s entry-level Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir. I distinctly remember the broad appreciation for the value proposition of this $25 wine, blended from multiple vineyards and growers throughout the valley. The final wine in my Club shipment was a bottle of 2013 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir, not yet formally released at the winery, as the remainder of 1,600 cases of 2012 are still for sale. I found enough reason to open the bottle and enjoy it early: the nose presents berry fruit and cloves (with little earthiness), while a fuller-bodied palate than expected yielded sweet stewed strawberries and smooth tannins. The wine is quite easy-drinking, but admittedly lacks the complexity and elegance of Meyer’s single-vineyard Pinot Noirs in the $40 price range. This isn’t necessarily a problem, if anything it suggests the wines are legitimately differentiated and appropriately priced. The 2013 Reimer and McLean Creek Vineyard Pinot Noirs will contribute more insight into the 2013 vintage upon release next year – I’m looking forward to my next shipment!

Orofino Collector’s Club: Fall 2014

My semi-annual mystery case from Orofino Vineyards’ Collector’s Club arrived recently, bursting with tasty treats and new releases from the Similkameen Valley. Unlike many wine clubs the contents of this one are not broadcast to members in advance, making it a true unknown what one is to receive, but I trust owners John & Virginia Weber enough not to worry, knowing they save the most exclusive wines for Club members. Should a particular wine be missed in a given year, there is also a guarantee that members will always have access to purchase at the winery. The latest case focused primarily on four wines, plus the usual Club-only bonus.

Orofino’s increasingly popular Moscato Frizzante was absent from the earlier summer shipment, due to a later than usual release this year. The delay was made up for through the inclusion of three bottles in this recent case. The 2013 Frizzante is now the third year for this charming sparkler, presented in an elegantly-shaped, silk-screened bottle with convenient crown cap. Old-vines estate Muscat is blended with the neighbours’ (Hendsbee Vineyard) Muscat Bianco, and typically a touch of Riesling and Pinot Gris for acidity and “BC flare” respectively. The carbonation provides a light effervescence that makes the wine a great aperitif, with tropical fruit aromas and slightly off-dry palate that finishes bright and crisp. The latest three bottles have ensured I can continue keeping one in the fridge at all times!

The triplet theme continued into a set of 2013 Home Vineyard Riesling, one of the three vineyard-specific Riesling Orofino now produce (the other two, from Hendsbee Vineyard and Scout Vineyard, arrived in the summer shipment). On the Weber’s estate vineyard in Cawston there sits less than one acre of 25-year-old Riesling, which John uses to produce just 100 cases of this intense, relatively dry wine: at 8.8 grams of sugar, the Home Vineyard wine falls between the very dry 4.4g/L Hendsbee and the 12.5g/L Scout. However, native yeast barrel fermentation and lees stirring help the complex Home Vineyard Riesling stand out amongst its peers. Having three bottles provided the opportunity to open one in the present, before setting aside the remaining pair for more aging. The nose presents immediate lemon curd aromas with just a hint of the traditional petrol notes (less than expected in fact). On the palate it is reminiscent of fresh-baked lemon squares, made with freshly squeezed lemons of course. Altogether quite pretty, and very refreshing, providing substantial curiosity as to how it will mature over time.

The Webers must have been thirsty as they prepared this case, for another group of three bottles was also included, in the form of 2012 Red Bridge Merlot. The Merlot has been a stalwart in the Orofino portfolio since nearly the beginning, and represents the winery’s only non-Similkameen input. The Oak Knoll Vineyard in nearby Kaleden consists solely of five acres of Merlot, devoted exclusively to this finely tuned wine. I remember tasting the 2011 vintage last fall at the winery and being very excited about the freshness exhibited. Opening a bottle of the 2012 revealed a rather intense, ripe and rich wine, to be expected from the warmer conditions in 2012, especially after a generous 20 months in oak. Youthful tannins are present but not discomforting, and the long, juicy finish provides flavours of blackberry, plum, and black currant, with a surprisingly manageable 14.6% alcohol.

A pair of bottles from a brand new Orofino wine followed the Merlot: the 2011 Scout Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is the first release from one of Orofino’s favoured vineyard partners. While a Passion Pit Vineyard Cabernet has existed for a couple of years (since 2009 vintage), the Scout Cabernet now adds to the winery’s big red division. The Scout Vineyard, overlooking the Similkameen River, grows slightly more than four acres of Syrah, Riesling, and Pinot Gris at present. Given the yield of this new wine (only 100 cases) I would expect less than one acre of Cabernet Sauvignon exists as well. Having two bottles gives me a chance to try the wine at some point (say 2016/2017) before determining how long to cellar the final bottle, which the winery suggests could be for as long as several years from now.

The final bottle in the box was particularly unexpected, providing a pleasant surprise in the form of one of Orofino’s custom-label wines. The winery recently partnered with Osoyoos’ Watermark Resort to produce a pair of house wines; the 2012 Watermark Red I received comes from the second year of this project. I cracked open the bottle to seek further insight into this blend of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon: on entry the mouth-filling texture offers sweet fruit, with bright blueberry and cherry character emerging. Coming from such a recent vintage I was surprised at the low levels of tannin, but I’m guessing the intent was to produce an easy-drinking wine ready for more immediate enjoyment. This wine would succeed quaffed alongside summer barbecue or winter comfort foods – after all the Resort remains open all year round! After similarly teaming up with acclaimed Hawksworth Restaurant in 2012, the Orofino team can celebrate another creative and fruitful partnership.