Spring Wine Club Shipments: Tinhorn Creek

The month of May saw quite a few new bottles of wine find their way into my cellar. Among the most exciting new arrivals were the spring releases from two of my favourite all-around wineries: Tinhorn Creek and CedarCreek. As a member of both Tinhorn’s “Crush Club” and CedarCreek’s “Platinum Club” I receive regular shipments of new releases from both wineries. At the beginning of the month Tinhorn’s spring shipment of whites showed up, followed two weeks later by a similar collection from CedarCreek, both boxes full of freshly bottled bright 2011 whites and Rosés, ready for summer enjoyment.

Tinhorn Creek’s Spring Shipment included new 2011 vintages of varietal Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer, plus the Oldfield Series 2Bench White blend, as well as the rare Oldfield Series 2Bench (Cabernet Franc) Rosé. A small but precious bottle of 2010 Oldfield Series Kerner Icewine rounded out the box. Being the smart fan that I am I had also added an additional six bottles of Rosé, knowing it is typically only available in the wine shop and at the on-site Miradoro Restaurant. Despite 2011 producing the largest Rosé production since the wine was added to the portfolio in 2009 it will likely still sell out quickly thanks to plenty of positive buzz and loyal fans.

The varietal whites from Tinhorn are always solid, and for 2011 they continue to show winemaker Sandra Oldfield’s thoughtful choices. The prime example this year is the Pinot Gris, for which one third of the grapes were fermented (in steel barrels) malolactically, to give the wine greater body and a food-friendly texture. Having already consumed my first bottle, and eager for more, I can fully echo Anthony Gismondi’s praise: the lower alcohol (a hallmark of the 2011 vintage) and slightly fuller texture makes an already versatile wine even more so. Plenty of local reviewers have suggested inspired food pairings ranging from spicy crab cakes or creamy mushroom chicken, to citrus-flavoured fish dishes and hearty salads.

The Pinot Gris is not the only new Tinhorn Creek release for which I already need to replenish my stocks, as the 2Bench White didn’t last much longer before being joyfully consumed. I’ve often said that were I to have a “house white” it would be Sandra’s masterful blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, and Muscat. Like the Pinot Gris (and the aforementioned Rosé), the 2Bench is a superb food wine. I brought my bottle to a seafood feast held by some friends during the height of spot prawn season and I’m told it shone; it even enlightened the admittedly absurd vegetarian shrimp I also attempted to share. The particular beauty of the 2Bench White is in the mix of tropical and aromatic characteristics that come from the carefully measured blend. Best of all, the refreshing citrus and melon flavours mean it can hold its own without food should you find the cupboard bare of everything but wine; giving you time for a discussion with the contents of your glass.

While I make room for more Tinhorn whites I fortunately still have a few bottles of Rosé to enjoy as the weather warms. Unlike in previous years when the supply was quite limited there was a good amount of Rosé from the 2011 vintage at Tinhorn Creek. Wise vineyard decisions early in the season saw a block of Cabernet Franc set aside specifically for Rosé once the weather started hinting at a short, cool growing season. Having already enjoyed a few bottles so far, including at the winery itself (more on that to come) I’ve appreciated the dry palate and bright berry nose; it’s a wine that easily lends itself to light, fresh summer fare like salads, thin-crust pizza, and veggie burgers. In addition to discussing Tinhorn Creek’s admirable sustainability measures, writer John Schreiner recently pointed out the Rosé is a refreshing wine “looking for a picnic.” I’ll keep a bottle in reserve for whenever the picnic weather arrives!

BCWAS: Van Westen Wine Dinner

On Monday the BC Wine Appreciation Society held their Annual Dinner, hosted this year by new Yaletown bistro The Flying Pig, with special guests Robert and Tammi Van Westen, from Van Westen Vineyards in Naramata. Although Flying Pig owners John Crook and Erik Heck had long ago sworn off of events like winemaker’s dinners they found themselves making an exception for the chance to partner with Van Westen, to the benefit of the BCWAS! John and Erik devised an ambitious five-course menu with wine pairings that covered the gamut of Van Westen’s finely crafted portfolio of whites and reds, with the goal of ensuring that no one would leave even remotely hungry.

As guests arrived alongside The Flying Pig’s regulars (John and Erik ensured that a few tables remained open for walk-ins), they received a glass of the 2010 Vivacious to sip while admiring the menu and catching up with other members. This crisp Pinot Blanc-Pinot Gris blend is a big seller on the wine list, and everyone clearly enjoyed the ode to summer it conjured up with lots of citrus aromas and grapefruit and tree fruit flavours.

Before the first course was brought out we heard from John, as he shared his philosophy and goals for the restaurant – the focus being fresh, local ingredients from the many great producers here in BC. Robert Van Westen also spoke to us about his winemaking practices and how nicely they dovetail with the straightforward purity of The Flying Pig. With his winery still young and growing, Van Westen plans to max out at only 3,000 cases of wine annually. Robert told us about how he avoids practices that excessively manipulate the wine, following the philosophy of his mentor Bill Eggert (owner of Fairview Cellars) – who considers himself a grape-grower first and foremost. As such, the winery is best considered simply a processing facility to effect the transfer of grapes to bottle.

Without further ado the very efficient wait staff soon brought out our first course, along with Van Westen’s 2010 Vino Grigio (i.e. Pinot Grigio). The wooden plank serving dishes were richly festooned with fresh Burratta cheese, marinated olives, and local artisan-cured Speck, with extra cheese and crispy baguette slices for the vegetarians. The juicy cheese and bright olives paired wonderfully with the clean, tart Vino Grigio, and I heard from my tablemates that it was equally perfect with the fatty, salty Speck. Flavours of Granny Smith apples and a hint of linen led to a refreshing lemony finish on the wine, and it didn’t take long for only a few olive pits to remain as evidence of the delicious opener!

For our next course guests were treated to local BC specialty Honey Mussels, alongside generous baskets of delectable “Pomme Allumettes,” served family style. John explained that these crispy matchstick fries were inspired by those addictive Hickory Sticks so many of us enjoyed in our youth (and perhaps still do!). The mussels were bathed in an atypical corn broth, rich in spicy, savoury flavours that made mouths water. To enjoy with the heaping servings of food was Van Westen’s delightfully golden 2010 Viognier, of which only 150 cases were produced from a vintage that demanded rigorous crop thinning. Fortunately there was enough left for us to enjoy, as the tropical and floral aromas led quite nicely to a rich, almost buttery palate of apricot and lemon.

Before the next course of Geldermans Farms Pork 2 Ways, a round of taster glasses revealed an unexpected treat: Robert had brought barrel samples of his upcoming Pinot Noir collaboration with Tom Di Bello. The intensely dark coloured wine – from the 2011 vintage – came out of 100% French Oak barrels, and is not scheduled for bottling until September, with a Spring 2013 release of only 100 cases to follow. Murmurs of delight were obvious as guests inhaled the ripe, earthy, black cherry aromas, and enjoyed flavours of blackberry and plum, with a long blueberry jam finish. More than a few requests for the wine to be bottled now had to be turned down! I myself am extremely excited to see how it tastes a year from now after such an impressive early showing.

With everyone rapidly filling up with mussels and fries the next course was daunting, especially when we started to see the enormous bone-in pork chops coming around the tables. Even the veteran carnivores in the room seemed intimidated by the portions, which came atop pulled pork gnocchi for extra oomph! Vegetarians were treated to delicious mixed vegetable gnocchi topped with a generous dollop of creamy herbed goat cheese. We watched with bemusement as our table-mates navigated their plates – and reminded them this was only the third of five courses!

To fill our glasses at this point was the brand new release of “Vulture”, Van Westen’s 2009 varietal Cabernet Franc. Previous bottlings of Cabernet Franc from Van Westen came only in magnums of “Vrankenstein” (with partial proceeds to benefit the BC Children’s Hospital), so there was clear excitement to see it in regular bottles at long last. Robert was excited to share with us his successful efforts to produce Vulture without the use of sulphur, a challenging practice in purity. At least a couple hours of decanting was recommended for this unfiltered wine, and the dusty tannins made for a superb food companion. It’s definitely a powerful wine, courtesy of 18 months in barrel, and the flavours of dark berries and currants actually ended up reminding me of oatmeal raisin cookies!

With another hearty course yet to come takeout containers soon started to appear on the tables as guests took their pork home for future enjoyment. Our empty glasses were exchanged for new fills of 2007 “Voluptuous”, Van Westen’s Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend, and gasps began to fill the air at the reveal of the fourth course: Wine-Braised Beef Short Rib and Mashed Potato – accompanied by almost comically large roasted marrow bones. Anyone who had boldly finished their pork rack was about to receive an even greater challenge! On the vegetarian side of the table we received equally generous helpings of wild mushroom risotto to savour as we once again watched our friends take on the massive dish in front of them.

Despite being five years old at this point, the Voluptuous was still fairly tight, but the creamy risotto and the rich bone marrow helped greatly to mellow it out. As the wine opened up in our glasses we experienced notes of forest floor, cranberries, licorice, spices, and minerals. Robert pointed out that Voluptuous was the first wine he made, and will soon be accompanied in his portfolio by a bigger brother called “V”, to be released this fall, with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Malbec to the blend. Taking the time to mature the additional vines and allowing the blend to take form in barrel will no doubt pay off for Van Westen, as the winery moves further into red wine territory.

At this point the restaurant was almost certainly running low on take-out containers, as wise guests made sure to leave room for the delectable-sounding dessert course of Honeycomb Caramelized Blinis and Vanilla-scented Pineapple, with Crème Fraiche Gelato. Fortunately I took the liberty of getting a good portion of my risotto to go, and was able to savour the delicate flavours alongside a near perfect pairing of 2010 “Vice” Viognier icewine. The silky smooth, deeply golden nectar showed off aromas of almond and caramel apple, with cinnamon spice and peach syrup flavours on the toasty, tart finish. Icewine is new to the program at Van Westen, and it certainly appears to have been a very successful start that hopefully continues to appear in subsequent vintages.

The BCWAS members who attended this exceptional dinner at The Flying Pig left fully satisfied by a generous and exceptionally crafted menu with perfectly paired, delicious wines all around. The entire staff at The Flying Pig provided seamless and extremely attentive service that was noticed early on and often. My particular thanks goes to John and Erik for accommodating vegetarian palates without a hiccup. Lastly, thanks to Robert and Tammi Van Westen, who shared great stories and details of their winery that complemented the many wonderful wines and special rarities they brought along. Kudos to the BC Wine Appreciation Society for another exciting and memorable event!

May Wine Club: Challenge Cucumber!

This past weekend saw another gathering of our monthly wine club with friends, and another opportunity to share more of our culinary creativity with each other over delicious wines. With plenty of sunshine and warm weather to brighten our spirits everyone was in a great mood as we shared welcome cocktails from our generous hosts. Enthused by the opportunities provided when taking on the appetizer course my wife and I had brought a pre-appetizer canapé selection as well: Havarti & watermelon-skewers plus cucumber slices topped with bright carrot-ginger dip (courtesy of one of my favourite cookbooks). Little did  we know the cucumber would portend a consistent – and much welcomed – element throughout the remainder of the meal. We were much amused when we realized we’d somehow unconsciously coordinated yet again!

With cocktails and canapés quickly consumed, we leapt into action and began preparing the sit-down appetizer course. After much humming and hawing about what to serve we had recently settled on an exciting recipe from the Spring 2012 issue of Taste Magazine put out by BC Liquor Stores. The Radicchio, Endive, and New Potato Caesar Salad with Ciabatta Garlic Crisps sounded like an ideal pairing for the two freshly bottled Frizzante wines I had acquired for the occasion. Months of patient waiting finally had been rewarded recently when Orofino released their brand new Moscato Frizzante almost simultaneous with 8th Generation’s newest “Integrity” Frizzante.

As everyone crunched their way through crisp radicchio and endive, we started with the drier Orofino wine, and were immediately impressed with the elderflower and orange blossom aromas. The bright acidity and clean finish made for an excellent pairing with the salad, and the wine carries its bubbles for quite some time. With only 300 cases produced by this increasingly popular Similkameen winery, this beautifully bottled wine won’t last long. Thankfully we will soon have an opportunity to buy more during our upcoming visit to Orofino in June!

For a different experience we moved on to the 8th Generation wine, now in its third vintage after beginning with straight Chardonnay Frizzante in 2009. The current 2011 release blends about one third Pinot Gris into the Chardonnay, while subtracting the Sauvignon Blanc component used in 2010. 8th Generation’s take on Frizzante is clearly a very different creation, equally likeable but much sweeter and creamier than the Moscato. Fresh flavours of melon, pear, and tropical hints of pineapple were present, making me glad I had recently acquired a half-case for more enjoyment over the summer months! We continued to enjoy comparing the two different wines while our hosts finished preparing the entree course, and decanting a delicious treat!

It was pointless to try hiding the statuesque magnum of Laughing Stock Portfolio lurking in the background, so into the extra-large decanter it went, with a sample glass poured for each of us straight from the bottle first. This particular 2006 vintage received a silver medal at the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards, along with a glowing 90-point review from Anthony Gismondi. Before sitting down with what sounded like a very complex entree course, we sipped our sample glasses and marvelled at the delightfully smooth textures and round berry flavours. Our host mentioned that one of his goals for our upcoming trip to the Okanagan is to acquire another Portfolio magnum (this one coming from a much-loved 2009 trip together), a wise choice given the enjoyment we were already getting out of this one!

With the Portfolio already flowing, we were soon treated to a beautifully plated hearty plate of Panzanella Salad, Creamed Spinach, and duelling steaks: vegetarians received giant cauliflower versions while the other half of the table dug into juicy Bison Ribeye. With a poached egg on top for one last flourish it was quite a sight, and the Portfolio easily stepped up to match the flavour bonanza in front of us. I’m told the hint of pepper in the wine wonderfully accentuated the Ribeye, while my own experience with the luxurious creamed spinach in particular helped cement support for acquiring another bottle at our next visit to the winery!

With a few leftovers helpfully wrapped up to go, it soon came time for the dessert course, which proved to be another mouth-watering delight, and one that we surprisingly hadn’t yet enjoyed together. When the torch came out it became apparent that someone had finally made Crème Brûlée! The Earl Grey-flavoured super-creamy delicacy was paired with a very refreshing Cucumber Gin Spritzer, made using Victoria Sprits’ fantastic Oaken Gin along with cucumber-steeped simple syrup, lime juice, and sparkling water.

If the Spritzer wasn’t enough we were also treated to a bottle of Mistaken Identity “Charmela”, a very creative blend of organic Chardonnay grapes and estate grown apples from Salt Spring Island. The dessert team regaled us with tales of surprisingly powerful aromas and earthy flavours when the Charmela was sampled at the winery last year, but by now those soil characteristics were substantially subdued, with only tantalizing hints remaining, alongside flavours of sweet almonds and tart apples. Just as the winery suggests, it made for a superb pairing with the Crème Brûlée, finishing the meal in satisfied style.

 

BCWAS: Township 7 Tasting

The dynamic duo of Township 7 Public Relations Manager Lori Pike-Raffan and Winemaker Bradley Cooper were on hand at the Listel Hotel mid-April to show off a wide range of delicious flavours they brought to the BC Wine Appreciation Society. With three white wines, a Rosé, and six reds on the table a huge part of the viniferous family was before us, from Sauvignon Blanc to Cabernet Sauvignon. Brad even brought the literal terroir in the form of two jars of Naramata and Langley soils!

Guests happily sipped Blue Mountain Brut while Lori showed off two raffle wines for the evening: she beamed with pride when acknowledging that Township 7 was selected by the Calgary Stampede to craft the official Stampede Centennial wines. Two lucky BCWAS members would soon be taking home the Centennial Selection 2009 Chardonnay, and the Centennial Selection 2008 Merlot; only 199 cases of each having been made!

Before the sniffing and sipping began in earnest, Brad walked us through the details of Township 7’s approach to grape-growing and winemaking, with details of the winery’s estate and contracted vineyards in the Fraser, Similkameen, and Okanagan valleys. A thorough and impressive PowerPoint presentation provided information and illustrations of the terroir from which Township 7 produces their award-winning wines, with details going back as far as the Cretaceous Period, 150 million years ago!

In addition to describing the various glacial deposits and soil types throughout the vineyards, Brad pointed out the advantages of long days with high light intensity, low rainfall, and large diurnal temperature swings. The cool evenings that come about in the Okanagan maintain sufficient acids and keep the grapes from accumulating excess sugar, all leading to superb flavour development. As he was speaking, guests were invited to pass around the provided jars of soil to appreciate the dramatic difference in composition and density of the silty Naramata soil and the heavy, clay-rich Langley sample.

With no time to lose we soon delved into the many wines to taste, starting with the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, a now sold out vintage showing how this often youthful wine can become fuller and more lush over time. A tiny 2% contribution from Muscat helped bring out flavours of honeydew melon, and the texture showed off reduced acidity and more obvious minerality from the time in bottle.

The 2009 Chardonnay was next, showing very subtle oak on the nose, despite full barrel fermentation, and a full texture courtesy of malolactic fermentation and extended sur-lie contact. In 2009 the Chardonnay came from four different vineyards in Naramata, Oliver, and Cawston, making it as complex as any other blend, despite being a single varietal.

Our third and final white was revealed to be an unfiltered tank sample of the 2011 7 Blanc blend. With about two thirds Gewurztraminer and one third Pinot Gris the young wine was very fruit forward and perfumed on the nose. Slightly off-dry on the palate with bright acidity it will no doubt have a prosperous future in food pairing for Asian-inspired dishes in particular.

A mature Rosé from 2009 came next; with a little rusty colour this “compilation Rosé” is a blend of Pinot Noir co-fermented with Chardonnay, plus small percentages of Muscat, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot from vineyards in the Okanagan and Fraser valleys. It shows a flavour palate that focuses on strawberry, with sufficient body and acid for successful food pairing. Interestingly, Township 7 didn’t make a 2010 Rose, and so the 2011 is awaiting release once the remaining 2009 is sold.

As we finished the first pass through the white wines we were treated to tasting plates from Listel Executive Chef Whittaker, who shared Seared Albacore Tuna, Rare Beef Tenderloin, Wild Mushroom & Eggplant Tartlet, and Tiger Blue cheese with red wine stewed fruits. For vegetarians there was car-grilled veggies and even more spectacular cheeses to enjoy.

Moving on to the reds – each one unfiltered – we began with a mini-vertical of the 2007 and 2008 Merlots. Both wines include single digit percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, with the current release 2008 adding an additional bit of Cabernet Franc for extra backbone and complexity. The 2007 Merlot was a favourite of James Suckling, who felt it was the best Merlot of his Canadian tasting session. I noticed dusty tannins and plenty of blueberry characters, while the 2008 seemed a bit fruitier on the nose and palate. A still-young 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon followed the Merlots, with flavours of chocolate and cherries, and tannins suggesting it will continue to mature for several more years despite 26 months in oak already.

The last three wines comprised a vertical of the Reserve 7 Meritage, from 2006 to 2008. While debates about favourites went back and forth Lori described the amazing accomplishments of quadriplegic artist Robb Dunfield, who mouth-painted the art for the label of the limited release 2006 edition. Brad then pointed out that the upcoming 2009 Meritage will include Petit Verdot and Malbec for the first time.

While we emptied our glasses and considered the best food and wine pairings Lori shared details of all the spectacular events Township 7 holds at both their locations, including the fall grape stomp – captured on video in 2011 by BCWAS member and Shaw TV reporter Kendall Harris. Whether it’s wine, food, art, music, or even live theatre amongst the vines, Township 7 goes all out for their fans!

April Wine Club: Spring is Sprung!

Our wine club dinner last weekend showed how much everyone is looking forward to summer, with several fresh white wines making appearances. There were some brand new wines from the 2011 vintage and others from last year’s 2010 release, still youthful plus benefiting from some additional complexity. As we put bets on whether reds would make any appearance at all, I shared a newly acquired bottle of Red Rooster 2011 Viognier. A brand new release with only 382 cases produced the Red Rooster was part of a split case of Viognier and (very limited) Rosé I ordered last month when the winery offered free shipping and 15% off – it definitely pays to get on those winery mailing lists! Some of us had participated in a BC Viognier blind tasting panel earlier in the week, so it seemed fitting to try a bottle from one of the few wineries we had not yet tasted (this week at least): the verdict easily put Red Rooster among the favourites. With such youth, the wine showed beautiful fresh and clean flavours on a very well balanced palate that followed aromas of vanilla, peach, and citrus. I’m quite pleased to have five more bottles to enjoy!

Seeing as we have enthusiastically taken to comparative and blind tastings, it came as little surprise that the appetizer team had two paper-bagged bottles for us to judge. On our plates were very attractive Carrot & Parsnip Fritters, with creamy lime-cilantro yogurt and a topping of fresh mixed greens with Mirin-peach dressing. Resisting the urge to dig in immediately we sampled the two wines, about which we knew next to nothing save at least one was from BC. The first showed a subtle nose with hints of pear and vanilla, and a palate rich in lime that drew out the yogurt’s flavours. The second bottle had more citrus on the nose, along with vanilla and a hint of green apple. The rounder palate drew out the cumin and spices in the fritters, with flavours that reminded some of us of starfruit and other exotics.

After a few rounds of guessing with not a hint of success, the bottles were finally revealed to great surprise as two BC Sauvignon Blancs from the 2010 vintage: 8th Generation and Cassini Cellars. We were uniformly surprised, as neither wine had the hallmark grapefruit and grassy characteristics expected – clearly erroneously in some cases – from Sauvignon Blanc. The experience certainly provided food for thought among those who too quickly dismiss Sauvignon Blanc as one-dimensional, as these two wineries have shown the impressive versatility of this food-friendly grape.

While discussion continued and the bottles emptied we were treated to the sight of an impressive array of delicious foods as the entree course was laid out by our hosts. An entree “starter” of spot prawn & scallop (or tofu) ceviche in coconut milk was enjoyed alongside tropical Sangria topped with Sumac Ridge Sparkling Gewurztraminer. Along with apricot Brandy, the Gewurztraminer amped up the Sangria with layers of complex flavours. That’s not to say this exciting sparkler can’t do just fine on its own, as the delicate bubbles and crisp fruit make for an excellent palate cleanser.

For the main event we enjoyed homemade fish tacos (with a marinated, grilled tofu alternative) with a bevy of toppings. Not only were fresh avocado, home-pickled carrots and onions, crisp cabbage, and spicy grilled pineapple available, but the tortillas themselves were fully homemade and freshly grilled – my mouth is watering just thinking back to it! A perfect partner for such a dish came in the form of Quails’ Gate’s newly released 2011 Chasselas-Pinot Blanc-Pinot Gris. The nose showed mineral and steel, tree fruits, and a bit of grass, with loads more tree and tropical fruits on the palate, including peach, pear, mango, pineapple, and lime. A real fruit salad in a glass, the fresh, clean flavours were very impressive and showed masterful blending of the three grapes. I look forward to enjoying more of this superb summer sipper.

For dessert we went traditional with a classic Tiramisu, paired with La Frenz’s marvellous Liqueur Muscat, and a bonus bottle of Prospect Winery’s new Tawny Port. Having never made Tiramisu before, my wife and I were excited to try making it from scratch, including homemade ladyfingers. Unfortunately our ladyfingers flattened out too much in the oven, so we dipped them in melted mocha chocolate and served them on the side, which complemented the dish quite nicely in fact. Store-bought ladyfingers ended up saving the dish, providing the necessary volume to balance the creamy mascarpone and whipped eggs. Fortunately the rest of the dish worked out perfectly, with rich flavours and light textures befitting a spring meal.

The two dessert wines were both delicious, especially the Muscat Liqueur, which impressed us immediately with a deep rusty colour from over a decade of solera-style production. The nose reminded me of burnt orange, while other guests suggested apricot, maple syrup, fig, and ripe berries. The acidity helped to cut the creaminess of the Tiramisu, and the flavours actually paired well with both the raspberries and the mint garnish! This is definitely a wine to get every year, given its rarity and luxurious flavour profile. Sadly, with only a half-bottle available, we were soon finished with it; but at least we could move on to a very nice Port-style Tawny from Mission Hill’s Prospect Winery label. Writer John Schreiner recently described the history of this Tawny, pointing out that it comes from barrels approaching twenty years of age. For only $18 per half-bottle this represents excellent value for such a well-aged wine, which showed off rich aromas including mocha and dates, with a hint of barnyard that I enjoyed. Naturally the mocha flavours were a superb pairing for the Tiramisu, which included shaved coffee-infused chocolate throughout, and soon yet another bottle was polished off!

The spring weather can only continue to improve into summer sunshine, so next month’s dinner will likely continue to show off the newly released wines alongside more delicious fresh food. We move up to appetizers next month, and are looking forward to getting the creative juices flowing for a course with so much potential. Keep watching to see if we do it justice!

Painted Rock Syrah Vertical

I recently had the opportunity to enjoy a vertical tasting from one of my favourite BC wineries – Painted Rock. With a small group of new friends we sampled all three vintages of Painted Rock’s highly regarded Syrah, from the first release in 2007 to the recent 2009, along with a mystery Syrah served as a blind comparison. The attendees were all clearly enthusiastic fans of BC wine, and we sipped 8th Generation’s Frizzante Chardonnay and “Confidence” Frizzante Rosé as we discussed our favourites and admired the bottles awaiting us on the table. All four bottles of Syrah had been open – but not decanted – for about three hours by the time we got to actually pouring the wine, giving them some time to open up a little bit in preparation for the big event.

We began with the 2007, from the first vintage at Painted Rock, a release which blew a lot of people away when the winery received TWO extremely rare Lt. Governor’s Awards for Excellence in BC Wine (for their first Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Red Icon blend). In 2010 this Syrah received a bronze medal from the Canadian Wine Awards, and then moved up to silver at the 2011 Awards. Our first impressions were aromas of leather and smoke – a savoury nose was clearly apparent, which led one guest to suggest “maple bacon”. Having spent about three years in bottle by now the tannins have smoothed out substantially, and the texture was very smooth, with a similarly leathery palate that included slight herbaceous characteristics, along with chocolate, coffee, and a hint of bell pepper. Paired with bittersweet chocolate the wine sang!

Moving on to the 2008 there were similar but less intense leather, savoury elements on the nose and palate, with more emphasis on red and black fruit. Some noticed what was described as a fennel/licorice flavour, with hints of stone and slate. A peppery finish rounded out the wine, and more acidity than the 2007 was noticeable on the back palate. The 2008 Syrah was awarded a prominent gold medal at the Canadian Wine Awards last year. Many reviewers have mentioned the risky use of 100% new oak for the 18-month maturation, but the wine appears to have integrated the oak quite well after only a couple of years in the bottle; it quickly became popular among us for walking the fine line between sweet and savoury.

Given the talk about 2009 being one of the hottest years in recent memory there was a lot of curiosity about the next bottle. The trend towards a fruitier, riper wine certainly continued with the 2009 Syrah, as it displayed loads of delicious cherry and black currant notes. The savoury characteristics of the earlier vintages were tamed significantly, as this newest release clearly shows off the fruit-friendly benefits of an intense growing season. Lots of positive reviews have suggested it needs at least a couple more years in bottle to really come into its own; there were certainly some tannins in need of taming. However, it seems likely that the bronze medal from the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards will be followed up by even higher scores in the coming years as it matures.

While we continued to ponder the concepts of vintage variation and the clearly evolving winemaking style at Painted Rock it finally came time to try the “mystery wine”, which we were advised was a BC Syrah from the 2009 vintage. First impressions yielded a chorus of surprised remarks describing the perfumed, floral nose; I also detected hints of spice such as cinnamon or nutmeg. One participant suggested it could even be mistaken for a white wine by the nose alone, if not for the colour of course. On the palate it was clearly an extremely fruit-forward, New World-styled wine, with a full mouthfeel. Although the 2009 Painted Rock Syrah is ripe and fruity, this mystery wine was even more so, and had us guessing with gusto about its origin. Finally our host revealed the true identity, with a trace of irony given that I had already brought it up when discussing characteristics of the Painted Rock: our surprise wine came from Naramata Bench star Laughing Stock. Co-fermented in mostly stainless steel with 8% Viognier this Syrah won a gold medal at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards, alongside Painted Rock’s 2008 release. Upon hearing the winemaking details everything clicked into place – the aromatic nose, the juicy flavour profile, and the texture and finish helped along by the Viognier.

Fortunately there was still wine left in each of the four bottles for additional consideration, and we paid attention to the subtle changes in each one as time passed. At the end of the evening we sipped on La Frenz Tawny Port while toasting our gracious hosts for a spectacular tasting. It wasn’t long before we were discussing the next event, should we be so lucky to amass amongst us sufficient vintages for a similar vertical tasting from another winery: I’m sure everyone is up for the attempt!

Recent Acquisitions: March 2012

In addition to a mixed case of BC’s best from the Playhouse Wine Festival in early March, I’ve also added a few additional exciting BC wines to my collection over the past few weeks. Some of these wines are brand new releases, while a few others were pleasant surprises I never expected to find, or end-of-vintage bottles I couldn’t pass up.

Church & State 2009 Chardonnay: The newer 2010 Chardonnay from Church & State has now supplanted this older vintage, which is no longer listed on the winery’s website. I picked up this bottle from Swirl Yaletown, to complete my small collection of 2009 Chardonnay. The grapes come from two Black Sage vineyards – Gravelbourg, and the winery’s own Coyote Bowl – and were aged in French oak, one third of it new. The 722 cases of this well-pedigreed Chardonnay are most likely nearly gone now, so time will tell if it lives up to the Best of Category award the previous vintage received at the 2010 All Canadian Wine Championships. A respectable silver medal from the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards is nothing to frown at, and certainly helped to prompt my purchase.

Blackwood Lane 2009 Pinot Noir: I’d read a couple of glowing reviews for this wine over the past year, but having not had the chance to visit the Langley winery since then I had given up on acquiring a bottle. Last spring Icon Wines called this wine “the quintessential BC Pinot Noir” (given its strong sense of BC terroir), and John Schreiner called it dramatic, silken, and delicate. To my surprise I recently stumbled upon a small cache in the Steamworks Liquor Store, and quickly snapped up a bottle for the cellar.

Hester Creek 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc: Although I fully intended on acquiring this wine all along, how could I dawdle upon learning it was awarded Best of Show at the recent Taste BC put on by Liberty Wines? Last year’s 2008 vintage was awarded a gold medal at the Canadian Wine Awards, so I have high hopes for the 2009 given the excellent harvest that year. The winery has taken to indicating the specific block from which the grapes were harvested in 2009, an informative practice slowly catching on as BC vineyards mature along with the knowledge of each site’s specific intricacies and strengths.

Poplar Grove 2008 Syrah: Much ado was made about this wine last year when it received the only gold medal awarded to a Canadian wine at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Having not seen this wine in any stores, or even on the winery’s own online store I put in a call only to learn it was already sold out – most having gone to the Poplar Grove Wine Club (frustrating, but fair enough). You could imagine my surprise when I spotted several bottles on the shelf at Kitsilano Wine Cellar while leisurely perusing! I later learned the store shouldn’t have received that case, but I’m certainly glad they did!

Howling Bluff 2009 Summa Quies Sin Cera: Having heard that proprietor Luke Smith has already removed his remaining Bordeaux varieties to make room for more Pinot Noir I thought it wise to get a bottle of one of the last vintages of his Bordeaux blend to see the light of day. The 2009 is a much more approachable wine than the extremely tannic 2008, but in Luke’s opinion a great Bordeaux blend is a rarity in the Okanagan, especially as far north as Naramata – the 2009 is the exception, not the norm. There is a 2010 version in barrel, and 2011 may follow, but from now on Howling Bluff is pretty much Pinot Noir exclusive.

Cassini 2009 Maximus: Another Bordeaux blend from the successful 2009 vintage comes via Cassini Cellars near Osoyoos. I’ve picked up a bottle of this blend each year since the 2007 vintage, which won gold at the 2010 Canadian Wine Awards. The 2008 and 2009 have both received silver from the same competition. Despite not yet being mentioned on the winery’s own website, the 2009 Maximus is in stores and has already been quite well reviewed. John Schreiner suggests this big, ripe, high-alcohol wine could be laid down until at least 2015, and Icon Wines concurs given the youthful, vibrant, and raw characteristics. Time will tell if the $5 increase in price is fully justified for what Daenna Van Mulligen calls a luscious fruit bowl of a wine.

Gray Monk 2009 Odyssey Meritage & 2009 Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon: Late last year this long-lived winery released their very first Meritage, plus a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon under the reserve “Odyssey” tier. Being located north of Kelowna the winery wisely sourced grapes from the hotter southern Okanagan to maximize ripeness in these reds. Both wines received bronze medals at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards, and when John Schreiner previewed the wines in early Fall he was quite impressed. Later consideration by critic Anthony Gismondi was more middling, particularly about the “austere” Meritage; although he felt the Cabernet Sauvignon was “a good effort” that should improve in bottle. When I tried them in person at the Playhouse Wine Festival I found them sweeter than expected, with plenty of tannin. I’m looking forward to seeing how they will age under screwcap.