BCWAS Bus Tour 2015: Naramata Bench

This year’s record-breaking weather meant the recent BC Wine Appreciation Society Bus Tour ended up smack dab in the middle of harvest! Despite finding themselves in the midst of an accelerating schedule all the winery proprietors and winemakers who committed to meeting our tour group were able to follow through. We also had the rare opportunity to view the winemaking process up close and personal as we stepped over hoses and made way for forklifts. While the settings we visited were a bit more hectic than anticipated, sampling fresh, sweet grape must from tanks more than made up for the disruptions!

Our first stop on Saturday morning placed us at Serendipity Winery on the northern Naramata Bench. In her rustic tasting room, Proprietor Judy Kingston poured samples of nearly every wine she produces: “patio pounder” aromatic White Lie 2011 led into the traditional grassy 2014 Sauvignon Blanc and the serious 2012 Viognier, a match made for coconut shrimp. (Judy’s culinary background ensures food pairing opportunities are the foremost focus at Serendipity.) A 2013 Pinot Grigio was suggested as companion for spicy foods, while the cranberry and pomegranate flavours in 2014 Rosé demand turkey and vegetables. Reds on hand included the full-bodied 2012 Pinot Noir, 2010 Devil’s Advocate (70% Merlot and 30% Syrah), the youthful and bright 2010 Serenata Bordeaux blend, and even newly released, delicious 2011 Cabernet Franc and 2011 Syrah.

In the ten-acre vineyard, hand-planted by Judy herself in 2005, her daughter Katie puts a biology degree to good use with creative pest management choices. Distracting voracious cut-worms with vineyard trimmings is one way to reduce unnecessary pesticide exposure, and Katie’s most recent compost project is actually yielding tax credits – contingent on a well-written formal report to government. The winery facilities are being reorganized and well managed by Winemaker Bradley Cooper since he joined the team last year. It’s where he also produces his own line of Pinot Noir under the Black Cloud label, with Judy’s blessing. Behind the enormous wooden door, Brad poured tank samples of 2015 Sauvignon Blanc and revealed Katie’s pet project – the upcoming 2014 Sparkling Chardonnay, still resting en tirage.

With everyone stocked up on Serendipity’s finely crafted wines we trundled on down the road to Hillside Winery & Bistro, where an early lunch awaited us. As we seated ourselves in a private dining area, Bistro Manager Lisa Henderson introduced Winemaker Kathy Malone. The perfect welcome to Hillside came in the form of 2014 Muscat Ottonel, their most popular wine, sourced from estate vines planted in 1984 when Hillside was first established. The complex profile from 30-year-old vines facilitated immediate refreshment from the 32-degree sunshine outside; Kathy was sure to mention the fresh floral aromas best labelled as Baby’s Breath.

Lunch began with a creative Baby Kale Caesar Salad: those who held on to their Muscat would have found an ideal pairing, but the follow-up 2014 Gewürztraminer provided a relatively dry, balanced approach to fruit and floral character. Between courses the intense and earthy 2011 Old Vines Gamay Noir showed off more of Hillside’s original vineyard achievements. Keeping our palates entertained was rich and supple Reserve Pinot Gris 2014 with Seafood Cioppino or bright and spicy 2012 Syrah with Wild Mushroom Pappardelle Pasta. A special treat as we finished came in the form of freshly pressed Muscat juice, hand-harvested from right outside by Kathy herself while we dined – talk about 0-mile eating!

A visit to Hillside’s tasting room after lunch saw me discover the rare Port-style “Soirée”, a nicely balanced solera-style multi-grape blend that became one of my few unplanned impulse purchases. We soon made a quick jaunt up the road to Howling Bluff Estate Winery to experience Luke Smith’s ode to Pinot Noir. With no room inside the tasting room (formerly his eldest child’s bedroom), Luke held court on the terrace and passed around his most recent white wines: 2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and the excellent Sauvignon-Semillon blend. Despite coming directly from lunch we hung on every word of Luke’s inspired food pairings, from Dungeness Crab in Black Bean Sauce to Jalapeño-Serrano Chili Ceviche.

Having sufficiently loosened us up Luke presented an extremely generous and awe-inspiring seven-year vertical of his award-winning Pinot Noir. Not only has Howling Bluff’s “Summa Quies” Pinot Noir brought home a bevy of medals and two Lieutenant Governor’s Awards, but it was the only variety other than Syrah to ever be named Red Wine of the Year from the Canadian Wine Awards. Starting with the first vintage, we inhaled the gorgeous aromas of 2006, Luke’s “sheer, dumb luck” success from two-year-old vines. All the way through to the current 2012 vintage we sniffed and sipped from some relatively youthful bottles, while Luke provided honest criticism of his work, when it could be found. The newest release just brought home a Silver medal from the Decanter Awards, for a wine Luke feels is “getting back to basics” and comparing favourably to 2006.

Joyously burdened with more prudent purchases, we made for Bench 1775 Winery to conclude the first day of touring. General Manager, Viticulturist, and Winemaker Valeria Tait joined us on the well-appointed deck to provide samples of several of her wines, alongside lavish platters of local cheese and charcuterie. We tried several of the table wines from Bench 1775’s extensive portfolio; quenching our thirst under the mid-afternoon sun with 2014 vintages of gooseberry and grapefruit Sauvignon Blanc, crisp “Glow” Malbec Rosé, and the lip-smacking “Chill” white blend. The “Groove” 2013 red blend was also well suited to the warm weather, an easy-drinking combination of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah served cool; followed by fine 2013 Pinot Noir and hearty 2013 Merlot.

After a late afternoon rest period at the hotel, dinner at Summerland’s Local Lounge was hosted by Stag’s Hollow Winery. The five-course meal allowed winery Proprietors Larry Gerelus & Linda Pruegger and Winemaker Dwight Sick to feature some of their most exciting and rare wines. Lobster Bisque & Seared Mini Crab Cake paired nicely with crisp 2014 Riesling – providing fresh, tart flavours to balance the rich and creamy seafood. “Orange Wine” 2013 Viognier Marsanne was served with Seared Scallop, truffled cauliflower puree, and red onion bacon jam. The upcoming 2014 Renaissance Grenache was perfect with House-cured Duck Breast, blueberry salt, and Poplar Grove blue cheese. The ambitious “Tongue and Cheek” beef braised in red wine demi-glace paired very well with 2012 Hawk’s Hollow, a wine club exclusive blend of 45% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. Finally, the winery’s 2012 “Hart” fortified Merlot finished off the meal with a selection of artisan cheeses.

Collectibles: August 2015

The fortuitous arrival of two different wine club shipments provided for a full case of collectibles allotted to the cellar this month. Connecting directly with the wineries helped me acquire several rarities in short supply, combined with selections from the clubs of Painted Rock and Moon Curser. The 2013 reds are coming off the bottling line at Painted Rock; and from Moon Curser’s growing Wine Club I was fortunate to receive a pair of library wines, plus additional newly released reds.

Moon Curser 2013 Tempranillo: Despite its local scarcity Tempranillo has been a facet of Chris Tolley’s portfolio since it was planted in 2004, long preceding more recent varieties such as Touriga Nacional or the Dolcetto he is about to harvest. I adored the 2012 tasted last summer, and have high hopes for this brand new release from another solid vintage, included in my latest Club shipment. It’s always a small lot wine – only 268 cases this year, from the home vineyard on Osoyoos’ East Bench. John Schreiner’s recent 93-point review praised the full body and long, spicy finish. Winery Direct $32

Van Westen 2012 Violeta Malbec: Last Christmas Rob Van Westen dropped by the BC Wine Appreciation Society Holiday Party and raffled off, among other things, a bottle of his first varietal Malbec. I’ve kept the wine in mind since then, awaiting formal release, and finally got my hands on some this month when Rob made a delivery run to Vancouver. Only 92 cases were produced, of a wine Rob describes as showing generous spiced berry notes and “orange-zest-infused chocolate” – a delicious-sounding drop from a top local talent. Winery Direct $30

Siren’s Call 2012 Syrah: Winemaker Mark Simpson recently set up shop in his BC Wine Studio at Hawk’s Vineyard in Okanagan Falls. A major honour was bestowed this summer when one of fourteen Lieutenant Governor’s Awards was presented for Mark’s Syrah, a bold wine sourced from the Similkameen Valley (the new 2013 comes from Osoyoos). A recent opportunity to taste both Syrah (and more) when Mark visited the BCWAS Summer Barbecue provided the opportunity to buy one of the last available bottles. Select Vancouver VQA wine stores may still have a little in stock. Winery Direct $25

Moon Curser 2012 Contraband Syrah: Also found in the newest Club six-pack was the winery’s latest reserve Syrah. This single-vineyard wine from the Osoyoos East Bench is the product of two individual blocks, one of which is used first for Moon Curser’s saignée-style Rosé; the remaining concentrated juice then contributes to the Contraband Syrah’s intensity. It is likely worthy of further aging to better integrate the fruit and oak – the winery suggests 3-7 years, a broad range. A modest 444 cases were produced from 2012, and it recently received a respectable silver medal at the National Wine Awards. Winery Direct $32

Van Westen 2012 Vulture Cabernet Franc: Several years ago Rob Van Westen produced a limited series of Cabernet Franc magnums he called “Vrankenstein” as a fundraising exercise for the BC Children’s Hospital. In 2009 he bottled a special sulphur-free varietal production run to yield 42 cases of well received “Vulture”. The Franc has been resurrected for 2012, albeit without the terrifying (for the winemaker) absence of sulphur, an important preservative. Rob managed to eke out 76 cases this time, with a floral and fruity expression said to posses characteristics as varied as wisteria, clove, plum, milk chocolate, and even pastry crust. Winery Direct $40

River Stone 2012 Cabernet Franc: The most unexpected find of the month, and likely of the summer! Ever since Oliver’s River Stone received a gold medal and critical acclaim for their Cabernet Franc in last year’s National Wine Awards I have sought it out, only to find myriad bottles of (also excellent) 2011 on store shelves. Meanwhile the 2013 has already sold out at the winery, let alone the mere 120 cases of 2012. With it still in the back of my mind, I finally hit pay dirt quite unexpectedly. Several years of additional aging could suffice, without impacting the juicy varietal character emphasized by the Awards’ judges, including Anthony Gismondi in his 89-point review. Viti Wine & Lager $36

Painted Rock 2013 Cabernet Franc: My bi-annual delivery included a real gem this month, in the form of Painted Rock’s first new red wine since being founded. The 2013 vintage proved so superb that a small amount of Cabernet Franc was hung for an additional twenty days, until early November, to magnify complexity and intensity. Only 165 cases were produced, being offered to Wine Club members and selected restaurant clients first, and there is no guarantee it will remain an annual staple. A sample sent to WineAlign was tasted by several critics just recently: the 89-90 point reviews speak of its power, balance, length, and ageability. Proprietor John Skinner isn’t stopping at Cabernet Franc, and recently mused about bottling a varietal Petit Verdot from the 2015 vintage. Winery Direct $52

Van Westen 2012 Vivre la Vie Merlot: The third of this month’s newly released Van Westen reds is varietal Merlot. This rarity has only been made from four vintages, starting  with the superb 2007, and always in small quantities – 113 cases this year. The next most recent vintage (2010) remains in my cellar awaiting maturity, with a predicted availability date of January 2017. The excellent 2012 growing season facilitated an intense and rich wine that Rob suggests evokes Christmas pudding, stewed black cherry, and orange zest – seems like a bottle to pair with the holiday season in 2018. Winery Direct $35

Le Vieux Pin 2012 Équinoxe Syrah: Le Vieux Pin has carved out a very deserving niche as one of BC’s premium producers of Rhone-inspired wines. The stated goal for the top echelon Équinoxe Syrah is to balance the more delicate floral qualities of the “entry-level” Cuvée Violette with the spicy, meaty character of the middle-tier Cuvée Classique. Two vineyards, one off Osoyoos Lake and another north of Oliver, contributed to 334 cases that include 3.5% Viognier, aged for 19 months in one third new French oak. A very age-worthy new release, already garnering significant praise, e.g., WineAlign, Gismondi on Wine, Icon Wines. Winery Direct $90

Painted Rock 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon: The reds at Painted Rock are usually aged 18 months in French oak (with annually decreasing proportions of new oak now down to just 30%), hence bottling takes place in the summer for an autumn release. Wine Club members get early access, and the Cabernet Sauvignon is in particularly high demand each year, ever since that very first Lieutenant Governor’s Award for the inaugural 2007 vintage. A slightly smaller than usual production of just 392 cases from 2013 will lead to even greater rarity – restaurant clients snap up much of the annual yield. Winery Direct $40

LaStella 2012 Maestoso Merlot: The sister winery of Le Vieux Pin has selected Merlot as their champion, with Maestoso at the top of the pyramid. I’ve managed to collect every vintage since the first from 2006, and the addition of 2012 to my six-year vertical has finally put that original well-aged example on the chopping block. The newest release is one of particular pride for the winery, who report their relief at the return to warmer weather in 2012, and the resulting “extremely uniformly ripe and pristine grapes.” If I follow my established aging schedule it won’t see the light of day until 2021, at the upper end of Treve Ring’s suggestion in her 90-point review, but likely well within the wine’s capacity. Winery Direct $100

Painted Rock 2013 Red Icon: Past blends of Red Icon have thrown expectations out the window and discarded traditional components like Cabernet Sauvignon entirely, led with Malbec or Cabernet Franc in the largest proportions, or included Syrah when appropriate. This brand new release is a true Bordeaux style blend, but as usual the varieties come in a non-traditional order: 33% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 21% Petit Verdot, 12% Malbec, and (only) 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Twelve hundred cases last year are down to 985 from 2013, and with plenty of maturity anticipated in the years to come now is the time to stock up for the future. Winery Direct $55

Collectibles: Precious Medals

At the end of July the results of WineAlign’s annual National Wine Awards of Canada were released to the public. Since the unfortunate demise of Wine Access magazine the respected periodical’s many contributors have helped grow WineAlign into a national resource. That growth has included taking the reigns of the former Canadian Wine Awards and producing something even greater in the Nationals. While judged wine competitions can’t fully reflect what it’s like to actually consume wine in the real world, I still find myself intrigued by the results. In particular, the prominent Gold and Platinum (representing the top 1%) medals at the Nationals can provide stimulus to try wineries and wines new to the industry, or to one’s own palate.

Given my focus on collecting BC’s best, I am fortunate to have many of the local big winners from the Nationals in my cellar already. Enjoyment of previous vintages, opportunities to sample during winery visits, and attention to the reviews of select local commentators often gives me a leg up before the awards are announced. In that vein a few of those wines that would ultimate place prominently this year were already on order or in my hands before the results were announced. A few more were on my radar, with the purchasing decision helped along by their success and the positive reviews posted by the competition judges. The following Gold and Platinum medal wines represent a mere sampling of the many great examples recognized from BC, they just happen to be those I acquired around the same time the awards were announced.

Anarchist Mountain 2013 “Wildfire” Pinot Noir: The high altitude Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown by Andrew and Terry Stone outside Osoyoos is finally being made into wine of their own. Fortunately Terry’s brother JAK Meyer has a winery in Okanagan Falls to which they have access, along with JAK’s Winemaker Chris Carson. The brand new Pinot Noir is only the second vintage under the Anarchist name, and just received one of an impressive dozen Gold medals awarded to BC Pinot Noir this year (all others going to wineries much larger in size). Noteworthy is that one dollar from each bottle supports the local volunteer fire department: from 90 cases produced that’s $1,080 for vital lifesaving equipment. Libations Liquor Store $42

Road 13 2013 GSM: Perfect timing to have acquired this new wine from the increasingly Rhone-influenced Golden Mile winery. Expecting it to sell out quickly I placed an order in mid-July; shortly thereafter the GSM was awarded one of two prestigious Platinum medals (of 14 nationwide) for the winery. Only 140 cases were made, but production will hopefully increase in future years as the Rhone focus ramps up. This first vintage saw Winemaker J-M Bouchard take advantage of a local grower’s generous offer of Grenache, declined by other wineries for being not worth what he was asking – clearly their loss in the end! The blend of 81% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 3% Mourvedre was said to encompass “honest, genuine, lovely succulence” in the 92-point score afforded by judges. Winery Direct $35

C. C. Jentsch 2013 Syrah: Chris & Betty Jentsch converted from cherries to grapes at the beginning of the century, and launched their own winery starting with the 2012 vintage. That initial 2012 Syrah – with little remaining at the winery – was awarded Gold at the Nationals this year. The new vintage being released received a coveted Platinum and the nod as Canada’s best varietal Syrah. While 2012 included some Viognier, hail damage precluded that practice in 2013, and Winemaker Amber Pratt blended 1,358 cases of straight Syrah from Golden Mile and Black Sage Bench fruit. High production numbers should give fans a good chance at finding some from Jentsch’s admirably broad distribution network. Swirl VQA Store $38

Road 13 2013 Syrah Malbec: This is the third vintage (393 cases) for this delicious and complex blend (83% Syrah, 12% Malbec, 4% Viognier, and 1% Mourvedre). Superb fruit and deft winemaking has helped the winery achieve an unprecedented “hat trick” – with an annual Platinum medal from the Nationals for each iteration! It goes without saying that I’m pleased to have collected all three vintages, having included the newest release in my recent order from the winery. A July event at Legacy Liquor Store provided a tasting opportunity hosted by Winemaker J-M and winery General Manager Joe Luckhurst:  ripe blue, floral fruit dominated the rich, lightly peppered palate, with relatively low tannins and fresh acidity. Very drinkable at present, with good aging potential as well. Winery Direct $32

Daydreamer 2013 “Marcus Ansems” Shiraz: Australian Marcus Ansems began marketing wines from his Naramata Bench winery last year, including this reserve tier branded with his signature and family crest. The first vintage of single vineyard Golden Mile Bench Shiraz (only 180 cases) was a finalist in the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival’s Best of Varietal Awards. It has been described in glowing terms by the WineAlign judges as showing northern Rhone savoury and spicy elements backing up a solid core of fruit. A Gold medal for the Shiraz was paired with another Gold for “Amelia”, a blend of Syrah and Viognier, helping to place Daydreamer among the Nationals’ Top 10 Best Performing Small Wineries. Libations Liquor Store $46

Road 13 2013 Syrah Mourvedre: With a nation-leading two Platinum medals, Road 13 had to settle for Gold on the Syrah Mourvedre. Another Gold for their Sparkling Chenin, plus ten Bronze, put them in solid third place nationally. This blend of 85% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, and 3% Grenache is harder to come by than the Syrah Malbec, with only 155 cases produced, and retained for sale solely at the winery. Those at the recent Legacy tasting lucked out with a sample – earthier and toastier but slightly more elegant than the blockbuster Malbec blend. Calling it “heart attack wine” Joe Luckhurst recommended a no-holds-barred food pairing of “anything that will kill you.” Winery Direct $35

LaStella 2013 Fortissimo: In a spring tasting in London, Jancis Robinson & Richard Hemming tasted 150 Canadian wines, ascribing some of their highest accolades to this Super Tuscan-inspired red blend (their highest score of 17.5/20 went to LaStella’s 2011 Maestoso Merlot). The newly released 2013 (1,202 cases) continued the tradition of excellence started in 2007 by taking home one of BC’s seven Platinum medals at the Nationals: “classy with a lot of character” in the words of judge Remy Charest. This vintage contains the highest percentage of Sangiovese ever (16%) alongside 49% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. The winery suggests it is pleasantly approachable now despite an 8-15 year life ahead. I have yet to open even my 2008, so there is no rush on my part! Swirl VQA Store $38

Collectibles: July 2015

After spending the first half of the month abroad enjoying foreign wine, I had to make up time upon my return and find the latest new releases. The full range of cellar-worthy reds found their way home with me this month, from Naramata Bench Pinot Noir to intimidating bottles of big blends from the southern Okanagan. Although many represented wines I have collected in past vintages, I was just as pleased to add some new wineries based on the positive buzz they are generating.

Tightrope 2013 Pinot Noir: New Zealand-trained winemaker-viticulturist couple Lyndsay & Graham O’Rourke gathered accolades at Ruby Blues and Mission Hill respectively before  focusing exclusively on their own winery recently. This new release, having spent 10 months in French oak, is only the second vintage from the O’Rourke’s Naramata Bench vineyard planted in 2007-2008. The inaugural 2012 was awarded a Gold medal at the 2014 National Wine Awards. John Schreiner’s recent 93-point review described the 2013 as a rich, seductively silky, “outstanding wine.” Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $40

Blasted Church 2012 “Cross To Bear” Syrah/Malbec: Previous Winemaker Richard Kanazawa produced the first Cross To Bear from the 2008 vintage, a 50/50 blend of the two rich red varieties. In 2012 new Winemaker Mark Wendenburg repeated the endeavour, this time using 72% Syrah, 22% Malbec, and 3% Viognier. The two reds were aged separately for 20 months before blending and bottling, with the Syrah’s co-fermented Viogner adding the classic floral notes. Like the original (a 93-point “big and demonstrative red”), fewer than one hundred cases were made, and will rapidly sell out in the winery’s busy Skaha Bench tasting room. Winery Direct $36

Nichol 2012 Syrah: Snagging a bottle from the oldest Syrah vines in Canada is an annual necessity, particularly from a vintage the winery calls “one of the most open and accessible in years.” Nichol’s 17 rows of own-rooted Syrah in Naramata Village celebrate their 25th birthday this year, providing the winery with not only major cachet but also consistent, quality fruit in the realm of 400+ cases each year. The dark fruit and herbs & spice of the 2012 is suggested as capable of accommodating several years in the cellar, until 2022. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $38

Blasted Church 2012 “Holy Moly” Petit Verdot: I opened a vertical of this rare varietal Petit Verdot earlier this year, tasting 2008 to 2011, a set of four challenging vintages for this big red. The chocolaty aromas and stewed blue and black fruit yielded plenty of discussion, with the well-balanced, bright 2010 winning the night despite the fresh fruit and floral aromas from the young 2011. Blasted Church’s devotion to this varietal yielded particularly big rewards this year when the 2012 was awarded a prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award after taking home a Gold medal at the All Canadian Wine Championships. No surprise that the 191 cases have begun to move even faster since the Award publicity. Winery Direct $36

Lock & Worth 2013 “Square One” Cabernet Franc: An outpost in the southern Naramata Bench lets Nichol Vineyard owner Ross Hackworth (and Sales Director Matthew Sherlock) capture visitors who don’t make it further north to Nichol’s home-base. The former Poplar Grove property also allows Ross to work with varieties that would otherwise clutter the tight and focused Nichol portfolio. The sole area of overlap is in Cabernet Franc, from which nearly twenty-year-old vines that came with the property yielded 172 cases of “big, bouncy fruit” for their third vintage. I’m looking forward to opening this “driven, dense, and juicy” wine a little closer to the suggested best before date in the 2020s. Firefly Fine Wines & Ales $33

Blasted Church 2011 “Nothing Sacred” Meritage: I have managed to collect each vintage of the winery’s signature red blend since it was first made in 2007. As part of the reserve-tier “Revered Series” It is always a small production wine of approximately 200 cases, although the components of the blend vary substantial with each vintage. Because of the cool conditions in 2011 the winery harvested a combination of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec as late as mid-November. As a result of “extreme dehydration of the grapes, which concentrated the flavours, Brix levels reached 25 plus.” Winery Direct $40

Hester Creek 2012 The Judge: Having finally acquired my sixth vintage for this vertical collection I can admire the full crate of half a dozen stately bottles, encompassing every vintage produced of this new Golden Mile Bench icon. Thanks to pre- and post-blend aging Hester Creek was able to bottle and release the wine just in time to proudly brand it with BC’s first official sub-appellation. The combination of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot comes from some of the Okanagan’s oldest vines; from them Winemaker Rob Summers produces an age-worthy wine I can look forward to opening when I need to make room for the 2019! Swirl VQA Store $50

Collectibles: June 2015

Through a happy coincidence the majority of my cellar acquisitions this month consisted of Pinot Noir. Some came in recent winery club shipments while others were courtesy of a group order following the BC Wine Appreciation Society’s 10th Anniversary Gala festival tasting. These traditionally lighter-bodied wines seemed thematically appropriate given the warm summer weather.

Tantalus 2012 Old Vines Riesling: Along with a couple bottles of the rare and delicious Brut version of this legendary Riesling I also snagged the table wine following the BCWAS Gala. Described as focused and pure by the winery it certainly focuses one’s palate, with a relatively dry 6.3 grams of sugar and racy 10.8 grams of acidity. Stats like those (and 35-year-old vines) ensure it will last nearly forever in the cellar. Winery Direct $35

50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir: Each year that goes by the young vines north of Kelowna provide a little more complexity (and acreage) for Winemaker Grant Stanley. The sixty-one acre estate is already yielding 2,145 cases of Pinot Noir, and production will likely continue to increase as the vines mature. A recent opportunity to taste this wine (a blend of six clones) prompted an immediate purchase, given the impressive balance and fresh, clean palate. Swirl VQA Store $35

Meyer 2013 Reimer Pinot Noir: Along with a couple bottles of the new 2014 Rosé (already sold out), my most recent Wine Club shipment from Meyer included new vintages of the winery’s two single vineyard Pinot Noir. I had the opportunity to taste both at a recent winery dinner hosted by the BC Wine Appreciation Society. The Reimer Family Vineyard in Kelowna yielded only 180 cases this vintage, so few likely remain at the winery. Winery Direct $40

La Frenz 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir: Owner/Winemaker Jeff Martin was present in person at the BCWAS Gala; I made sure to add a few bottles of his to the group order afterwards to take advantage of the opportunity. Along with some consistently superb fortified dessert wines I bought this well respected Pinot Noir, a reserve selection from the winery’s Naramata Bench “Desperation Hill” vineyard. While an excellent ‘regular’ version of the wine sells for $23, this one is simply “more of everything” as John Schreiner put it in his 92-point review. Winery Direct $35

Meyer 2013 McLean Creek Road Pinot Noir: In contrast to the fruit forward Reimer wine, the Okanagan Falls home vineyard has produced a darker, earthier, more spiced iteration of Pinot Noir. The wine was recently named Best Pinot Noir at the new Northern Lands Wine Competition in Edmonton. A larger production run of 500 cases should yield higher availability than the Reimer, but given Meyer’s growing popularity at home and in several countries abroad, even those bottles won’t be around for much longer. Winery Direct $40

Laughing Stock 2013 Pinot Noir: It’s been a few years since Winemaker David Enns produced a Pinot Noir (his sole vintages being 2004, 2006, and 2008). In the meantime the Enns’ have been developing their Osoyoos vineyard and crafting one of the country’s finest Syrah. The time finally came for a return to Pinot Noir, sourced from a small Naramata Bench vineyard. Only 124 cases were produced, and I was lucky enough to receive two bottles in my Preferred Share Wine Club shipment. Opening one revealed an intense, bold take on the variety, with 14.6% alcohol no less! Holding the second bottle for 3-4 years should be no problem. Winery Direct $32

Orofino 2012 Passion Pit Cabernet Sauvignon: My summer Collector’s Club case contained a number of juicy gems, including Scout Vineyard Riesling and Syrah, but the Cabernet was especially desirable. The whole winery team was present at the BCWAS Gala, pouring this one among several others, to great acclaim. With the wine offering exemplary intensity and richness, Orofino provides more evidence that the warm Similkameen Valley is the place to go for ripe Cabernet in BC. John Schreiner’s 92-point review sums it up nicely: “A tour de force.” Winery Direct $29

BCWAS Black Hills Vertical Tasting

Another momentous tenth anniversary event for the BC Wine Appreciation Society saw a sold-out crowd relish a ten-year vertical of Black Hills Winery’s iconic Nota Bene red blend this week. Winery President Glenn Fawcett visited Vancouver to lead the tasting and share in the enjoyment – to the extreme envy of his colleagues back in Oliver! The Black Hills wine library is reportedly quite small, and such extensive vertical tastings are extremely rare, so Glenn was just as excited as the attending aficionados. He even managed to dig up and generously contribute two bottles each of the rare 2004 and 2005 vintages to ensure the vertical’s ten-year goal was met.

While we sipped the winery’s charming Sauvignon-Semillon blend “Alibi”, Glenn provided a quick history. The creamy palate and well balanced lemon curd flavours in Alibi provided a nice backdrop for an introduction to Nota Bene. Black Hills’ original Black Sage Bench vineyard (an abandoned 34-acre property) was planted in 1996 with a focus on Bordeaux reds: 45% Cabernet Sauvignon (four clones), 40% Merlot (four clones), and 15% Cabernet Franc (two clones). From these vines the first Nota Bene vintage of 1,600 cases was made in 1999, and by 2003 a cult following had grown thanks to positive media coverage and fan visits to the original Quonset hut winery.

Glenn helped lead a group of investors in a friendly takeover in 2007 when founders Bob & Senka Tennant “retired” to the Naramata Bench. The Tennants now focus exclusively on Galician and Rhone whites at their small winery Terravista, having planted Canada’s first Albarino. Since the transition varietal Syrah and Viognier have been added to the Black Hills portfolio, while Nota Bene production has been capped at 3,300 cases annually and a second-label line has been devised. The Cellar Hand brand allows Winemaker Graham Pierce to select only the best barrels for Nota Bene, yet provides for a superb value entry-level red.

The talented pouring crew had managed to extract nearly 70 meaningful samples from the pairs of 2004 and 2005 bottles, and that’s where the tasting began. (The wines had all been decanted the previous day and then returned to bottle for pouring.) By 2004 the vines were in their ninth leaf, yielding sufficient fruit for 2,800 cases, originally suggested for consumption by 2009. Despite their age, both of those early vintages were still going strong, with violet and baking spices leading into a smooth, well balanced chocolaty palate in 2004. The more savoury 2005 showed off leather and dried fruits, with an elegant, spicy profile.

Working through the the next several vintages there emerged bright, fresh fruit character as the wines became more youthful. Even relatively old 2006 had plenty of life ahead of it with noticeable tannins still present amongst the vibrant flavours. I noted a personal favourite in the 2007, with a rich, ripe nose and dark, silky palate (also the highest alcohol at 14.7%). This was the same vintage Graham Pierce began his residency following the transfer of ownership, serving as co-winemaker that year alongside Senka. By 2008 Graham was in charge: this vintage was really showing off youthful, fruit forward aromas, followed by a creamy palate of chocolate with hints of black licorice.

In 2010 the blend included the highest proportion ever of Cabernet Sauvignon (57%); the subtle nose of that vintage yielded tobacco and sweet red fruits, with a lighter body and plenty of acidity to age. This was the same year the winery made the decision to cap production and commence rigorous barrel selections going forward, creating and benefiting the Cellar Hand label. A colour transition was apparent by 2011, in which the violet spectrum dominated. Despite the cool season there were no green notes evident in the nose of plums, nor in the spiced milk chocolate flavours. The exciting development that year was acquisition of a neighbouring 15-acre vineyard, originally planted in  the same year as the estate vineyard, with virtually the same clones and rootstock.

Although the grape ratios in Nota Bene have always followed the vineyard proportions that slightly favour Cabernet Sauvignon, 2012 was one of two exceptions, with Merlot in the lead at 57% (1999 led with 64% Merlot). Despite its apparent youth, I found another favourite in this fresh and clean wine, possessing ripe tannins and all the classic (by now) Nota Bene notes of violets, cassis, and chocolate. There was a return to traditional form in 2013, when the lowest alcohol yet witnessed (13.7%) was also attained. This latest release, still available in select stores although sold out at the winery, was not nearly as chewy as expected, with notes of fresh berries and red licorice coming together nicely.

At the same time as this fall’s harvest the 2014 Nota Bene will also be bottled in preparation for release next spring. This year the winery added small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot to the vineyards, so future years will enjoy even greater complexity (and yet more challenging blending decisions). Glenn closed the tasting by requesting favourites from the assembled guests: the secret ballot showed 2006 in the lead, followed by 2008, 2009, and a 2010/2012 tie. Clearly those fans awaiting the 2014 release can look forward to several years of maturation in their cellars before the wine reaches its peak. Many thanks to Black Hills for their generosity and mutual excitement for this exciting event: best of luck in your 17th vintage!

Le Vieux Pin Foraged Dinner

Accomplished Oliver winery Le Vieux Pin has begun tenth anniversary celebrations this year. Since their first vintage in 2005, Le Vieux Pin has strived to produce wines that “capture the essence of French winemaking tradition, but with the fruit and character of the New World.” Initial forays (and success) with Pinot Noir later evolved into a Rhone-inspired focus that emphasizes Viognier and Syrah. All three varieties were present at a recent innovative pop-up dinner to mark a decade of accomplishments.

The winery partnered with Chef Robin Kort of Swallow Tail Culinary Adventures to present a foraged dinner prepared by talented Chef Jefferson Alvarez – I was particularly lucky to attend as a guest of the winery. Upon arrival in the “secret” Chinatown location patrons were greeted like old friends by winery GM Rasoul Salehi (and no doubt many were). Rasoul had personally assisted with foraging the North Shore and beyond for ingredients in the weeks leading up to the dinner. As we sat down to fresh-baked bread with goat butter and duck pate, he was on hand to pour a glass of Le Vieux Pin’s spectacular Pinot Noir Rosé, “Vaïla”.

Having recently returned from a weekend visit to the Okanagan that included a stop at Le Vieux Pin I was excited to enjoy Vaïla yet again, despite the presence of several new bottles in my own cellar. The Rosé has been a favourite of mine for years, and the clean, crisp, and dry 2014 vintage is an ideal expression of the style. We sipped the supremely refreshing wine – awash with strawberry-rhubarb and ripe peaches – as an equally mouth-watering Wild Salmonberry Gazpacho was served, topped with Pine-infused Farmhouse Cheese. The pink-orange-coloured gazpacho proved to be an excellent pairing and particularly delicious in its own right.

“Let me tell you a story about sturgeon” introduced the next course, as described in the creative menu. As Rasoul deftly poured 2013 “Ava” Viognier Roussanne Marsanne my wife and I considered the provenance of “sturgeon marrow”. Some quick research revealed the marrow is a delicacy of generations past, taken from the spinal cord of European sturgeon fish. Admittedly the texturally unique marrow was not on my personal highlights list, but the Ava provided for plenty of admiration (as it has for me since the wine’s inception). From 2013 Winemaker Severine Pinte produced a blend of 50% Viognier, 41% Roussanne, and 9% Marsanne, yielding perfumed aromas of apricot, candied pineapple, and baked vanilla.

A follow-up to the sturgeon was Seared Cat Tail, served with celeriac purée and a very flavourful scallop chip. The cat tail and rich purée were favourites, with the celeriac serving to augment the sweet floral character from the Viognier. Overall, the Ava’s dry, long-lived palate hints at serious complexity to come, with apricot pit and toasted almond notes that intensified the earthy flavours in one last spoonful of gazpacho as well.

Le Vieux Pin’s entry-level Syrah, the outstanding-value $29 Cuvée Violette, was present to provide an introduction to the winery’s extensive focus on the grape. Above the Violette there is also the Cuvée Classique, and the exceptional and powerful Equinoxe Syrah, neither of which should be missed. The 2013 Violette’s fragrant nose, with hints of spicy toast, proved a lovely match for Fire Morels with fiddle heads, ramps, and yolk sauce. The smoky, meaty character of the delicious mushrooms revealed the wine’s spicy notes hidden within a palate of mixed dark berries and chocolate. Although it could be cellared for the short term, the Violette is drinking quite well at present, with fresh acidity and delicate tannins that make it superb on its own or with a variety of foods.

Refills of Syrah were generously provided, at the expense of the winery team’s own dinners! Fraser Valley Duck Breast provided for another lovely pairing, smoked with Alder wood and served with huckleberry jus. As the meal wound down we surveyed a final creative course of “Cheese Honeycomb”, another new gustatory experience I could not have imagined. The dish consisted of a honeycomb-like lattice formed from what seemed to be flash-frozen cheese, light and ethereal, to satisfy and refresh one’s palate. It capped a memorable meal and treasured opportunity to celebrate a wonderful winery with many further years of success to come. My thanks to Le Vieux Pin and to Chefs Alvarez and Kort for a delightful experience!