Collectibles: February 2016

With the holiday shopping (and drinking) season still hanging over our heads few new wine releases are usually forthcoming in the first couple months of the year. I myself have introduced only a handful of new bottles into my cellar since December, hence no January Collectibles entry. A couple choice selections from a trip to Osoyoos over New Year’s with the BC Wine Appreciation Society are included this month, along with some new wines from the same neighbourhood thanks to a recent Wine Club shipment from Moon Curser.

Van Westen 2014 “VD” Pinot Noir: Robert Van Westen and his Pinot Noir partner Tom DiBello maintain a good sense of humour, evident not only by the cheeky name of their collaboration, but in their decision to release it annually on Valentine’s Day. This year marks the fourth vintage for the small lot specialty very popular amongst those in the know on Rob’s mailing list. The Naramata vineyard yields a rather intense wine due to additional hang time necessitated by the north-facing tilt: Rob mentions baking spice, savoury meatiness, and dark chocolate characteristics to accompany the fruit flavours. A relatively bountiful 135 cases represents the largest production yet, and a welcome increase from last year’s miniscule two barrels (51 cases). Winery Direct $40

SpierHead 2014 Pinot Noir Cuvée: This young Kelowna winery has gotten into Pinot Noir in a big way, with four different new releases making their way to market. Always savvy marketers, SpierHead sent review samples broadly to the local community, ensuring strong publicity for wines they had every reason about which to be confident. The flagship Cuvée represents the best barrels, blended to produce 274 cases from five clones across the winery’s vineyards, and then aged for ten months in French oak. It has already garnered praise for being “rich in complexity and texture,” in addition to “concentrated and seductive,” with much potential to “relax and grow in the bottle over the next two to three years.”  Sutton Place Wine Merchant $41

Moon Curser 2013 Petit Verdot: This adventurous Osoyoos winery has been producing varietal Petit Verdot for a few years, one of only a small handful of local ventures doing so. It’s always a small lot release, this time only 246 cases from the Osoyoos East Bench, and part of the reserve “Contraband Series”. Interestingly, only one third of the wine was exposed to any expressive oak (new French in this case), with the remainder fermented in steel and then aged in neutral barrels for a year. The early harvest of mature grapes (24.5 Brix by October 16th) and restraint in the cellar should yield fruit forward characteristics, with the winery suggesting it is more “supple and generous” than previous vintages. Winery Direct $32

Cassini 2011 The Godfather: After a few years in operation and growing success, Proprietor Adrian Cassini introduced an icon red blend in the form of “The Godfather”. The new 2011 is only the second vintage, reflecting the highly respectable increased emphasis on bottle aging Adrian has put in place recently. In the case of The Godfather, time in bottle will most certainly have helped settle it after 24 months in 100% new French oak! The wine is a blend of the best barrels and varieties from the cellar, and doesn’t follow a predictable formula, this year bringing together Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) and Cabernet Franc (14%) to yield a mere 150 cases. Seeing as The Godfather is rarely seen outside the winery tasting room, I took advantage of the New Year’s trip to pick up this rarity. Winery Direct $70

Moon Curser 2013 Border Vines: Another brand new release included in my latest club shipment, the Border Vines is Moon Curser’s prevalent (1,710 cases) red blend. In past years the inclusion of Carménère has rounded out the six-grape blend, complementing the more traditional Cabernets, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot – putting it a step above others. However, it seems Cabernet Franc didn’t fit the bill for 2013, as it is notably absent this year, making for 32% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 18% Petit Verdot, and 4% Carménère. It’s certainly surprising to see so much Petit Verdot, especially from a winery that also bottles a straight varietal of the grape; Chris Tolley always keeps things interesting! I added the new vintage to my rotating vertical of this little gem, pushing the 2009 to the top of the queue for upcoming consumption; fortunately it should be well preserved under screwcap. Winery Direct $27

Nk’Mip 2013 Mer’r’iym Meritage: While the 2012 vintage of Nk’Mip’s relatively new icon red blend is still listed online (and sold out to boot), the 2013 was found in generous quantities at the Osoyoos tasting room during my visit over New Year’s. The big bold red from some of the Okanagan’s southernmost vineyards is built to age elegantly, and now that I have the 2013 I can finally open my inaugural 2008 to make room in the rotating vertical I keep. Surprisingly, Nk’Mip elected on a blend dominated by three quarters Merlot, despite the beneficial vintage conditions that would imply Cabernet Sauvignon, in this case bringing up the rear at only 12%, with 7% Malbec, and 5% Cabernet Franc to balance the profile. Regardless, it should age just fine (given suggestions regarding past vintages) as I await the 2018 vintage release that bumps this one into consumption status. Winery Direct $50

Osoyoos Larose 2012 Le Grand Vin: Despite just picking up the 2011 vintage in December, the new 2012 has already been spotted on store shelves. As John Schreiner pointed out at the end of last year, reduced production quantities from 2010 and 2011 meant the 2012 was released early despite the potential benefits of bottle aging. This newest release comes just as news has emerged that new Winemaker Mathieu Mercier is himself being replaced by Jean-Marc Enixon, in a friendly staff rotation by estate owner Groupe Taillan. Mathieu would have aged and blended the 2012 after Pascal Madevon departed in early 2013. He settled on a final configuration of 50% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec that charmed Schreiner into a 94-point score (and prompted Anthony Gismondi to declare it “one of the best young Osoyoos Larose we have tasted”). Swirl VQA Store $45

February Wine Club: Not That Colbert

My favourite aspect of our monthly wine club is the fact that it encourages people to experiment in the kitchen to find the best food pairings. This month one of our regular couples was forced to cancel on short notice, but some highly enthusiastic pinch hitters joined us in their absence. Maybe it was the presence of new members to impress, or maybe inspiration was in particular abundance this month, but everyone brought their A-game! There were plenty of new gourmet dishes and exciting wines to share.

As we awaited the arrival of all eight diners we noshed on warm hors d’oeuvres from the oven, paired with a wine duo sure to please any palate. The first course chefs had brought us Miso-glazed Baked Tofu with Sesame Seeds, and Fried Polenta Rounds with Gruyere & Wild Mushrooms. We had the joy of first sipping from a wine I have foolishly not enjoyed in some time – Hester Creek’s unique varietal Trebbiano. The forty-year-old vines on the Golden Mile Bench produced 1,000 cases in 2014 of a wine that stands alone in Canada. The lip-smacking refreshment of last spring’s release was still very much a joy to drink at the same time the 2015 is likely being bottled. The perfumed nose of dried flowers and tropical fruits opened up into a palate of subtle fresh stone fruit and candied pineapple. I was reminded that keeping a few bottles on hand as a summer staple this year will be wise.

While the crisp Trebbiano helped cut through the rich polenta rounds it was Haywire’s 2012 Canyonview Pinot Noir that was expected to coordinate best with the mushrooms and cheese. This follow-up to the Lt. Governor’s Award-winning 2011 vintage comes from Summerland grapes that spent time in used oak barrels and concrete eggs. It yielded generous varietal character on the earthy nose, and the pleasingly smooth palate presented cranberry and cherry flavours that reminded some guests of tasty fruit gummies. The slightly smoky character actually worked well with the baked tofu, which unexpectedly encouraged the wine to express darker tropical fruit flavours.

With everyone gathered around the table, our appetizer course was presented, courtesy of one particularly intrepid guest who carried a full crock pot across town in a taxi! The devoted chef had brought us an incredibly flavourful eggplant soup modelled after the “Aubergine Dream” served at a friend’s Souppe Shoppe in Toronto. Roasted eggplant and mushrooms were topped with double-smoked bacon bits and mushroom chips, paired with new Synchromesh 2014 Cabernet Franc. Okanagan Falls Winemaker Alan Dickinson worked with the Cachola family to nurture a small vineyard outside Oliver, from which this bright and punchy wine came to us. The savoury nose of herbs and leather worked very well alongside the soup, and the palate proved surprisingly smooth for such a young wine, with a fruit-forward influence and tart cherry flavours.

For the entree course I was inspired yet again by BC Liquor Stores’ TASTE Magazine, having recalled a creative take on traditional lasagna spotted in last Fall’s issue. The Beet & Cheddar Lasagna turned out very well, with layers of beets, chard, whole wheat pasta, and a tangy aged cheddar béchamel sauce topped with a crispy pistachio crumble. With such a hearty, earthy dish on offer I turned to a big, aged red with expected intensity to match. The CedarCreek 2006 Platinum Meritage “Colbert Edition” was a unique small lot (144 cases) produced when the winery acquired four barrels of rare Sylvain French oak from a 350-year-old tree. Supposedly the trees in the forest of Bertrange were planted under the supervision of Louis the Fourteenth’s Finance Minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert. The wine is not an homage to talented comedian and television host Stephen Colbert (who is in fact of Irish ancestry).

Decanted at the beginning of the meal, the Meritage was ready to reveal the results of nine years aging on the blend of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (31%), Malbec (18%), Cabernet Franc (9%) and Petit Verdot (2%) – which spent 21 months in those Colbert barrels. We smelled toasted vanilla, milk chocolate, and the meaty notes of “really good steak,” plus a touch of residual volatile acidity. The palate was velvety smooth with a lively tart finish, and showing intense flavours of blueberry compote along with some savoury olives and a hint of the aforementioned steak’s raw bloodiness. Not including the contents of some vertical collections, the Colbert Meritage was one of the oldest BC wines in my collection, and it was a joy to share it with good friends over great food.

Full of beets we settled back to see what the dessert team had brought us, hiding beneath a tea towel before the final reveal. Individual mason jar cheesecakes yielded applause, particularly when the details were presented: the savoury Blue Cheese Cheesecakes were topped with Blueberry Port Compote and Thyme Honey Graham Cracker Crumble. The chefs were apparently feeling as nostalgic as I was, given the 2005 Hillside Mosaic they were willing to open. In addition, their recent day-trip to Abbotsford had included a visit to growing new winery Singletree, from where a bottle of 2013 Fraser Valley Siegerrebe was obtained. The Siegerrebe’s sweetly scented nose of honey and lychee fruit was a superb pairing for the cheesecake, while the Mosaic offered darker aged character. Suggestions of tomatoes and olives prompted “pizza” as the aromatic descriptor of choice, while “funky” maple-caramelized vegetables swirled about the spicy palate.

Satisfaction and mutual compliments were widespread as we concluded the evening; it was a particularly innovative meal with some rare wines and inspired pairings as well. We enjoyed reds from an expansive range of ten vintages, let alone the fresh and exciting whites, giving us all many wonderful memories and even further inspiration for future gatherings.

January Wine Club: Happily Healthy

It actually isn’t too uncommon for the members of our wine club to seemingly unconsciously coordinate. Despite the very nature of the club being one of surprise, our food and wine choices synchronize more often than expected. I suppose after several years of monthly dinners we’ve clearly developed corresponding tastes and styles. This month’s gathering marked another episode in harmony when the entire meal – with no prior organization – was discovered to be a flavourful, nearly vegan feast – embarrassingly nutritious but equally delicious.

We rapidly got settled upon arriving by starting with ramekins of warm Vegetable Barley Soup as we admired the chefs’ tottering toddler – mere days into the world of walking. The rich and remarkably creamy soup had spent hours slow-cooking to warm our spirits, an easy feat when the exciting wine pairings were revealed. From Stoneboat Vineyards we opened the newest vintage of one of south Okanagan’s finest Pinot Noir. The 2012 expressed spiced red berries and nuts on the nose, with a generous, smooth palate of fruit flavours, plus what one guest suggested was caramelized beets. The wine’s clean finish provided superb refreshment alongside the thick soup.

A second introductory wine came from a personal darling of mine: Le Vieux Pin is quickly mastering red and white Rhone varieties at their Oliver winery. The attractive Cuvée Violette Syrah serves as an introduction to Winemaker Severine Pinte’s broad exploration of the grape’s potential in BC. The 2013 we enjoyed is sold out at the winery, with a new vintage to come this spring, but fortunately our friends found at least one bottle locally. A complex bouquet with cedar, vanilla, and forest aromas immediately impressed, while the mild tannins made for easy youthful enjoyment. However, we were sure to notice sufficient body and acidity to last – should one keep their hands off it after tasting the mouth-watering milk chocolate cherry flavours. Like the Pinot Noir, that bright, fresh character made a good foil for the viscous soup.

Following last month’s soft pretzel hors d’oeuvres my wife and I were assigned sit-down appetizer duty for this installment. I turned once again to BC Liquor Stores’ TASTE Magazine and found an appealing Mixed Grain & Squash Salad that piqued my palate and triggered an inspired search of the cellar. I couldn’t help but present a pair of gems from Stag’s Hollow, particularly once I found a 2007 Renaissance Merlot calling out for consumption. With the salad and decorative kale chips artfully presented we first served the coordinating 2013 Viognier Marsanne, already double decanted back into bottle. This adventurous orange wine is an extreme rarity, with only 35 cases produced after a year in used Acacia wood. We gushed over the intense apricot character and mushroom hints, while the mild tannin paired perfectly with the (optional) blue cheese sprinkled atop the salad.

Following some time in the decanter the Renaissance Merlot was also heartily enjoyed, presenting an intoxicating nose of aged blueberries upon first impression. A bit of leather on the relatively austere palate gave way to a very smooth texture that celebrated several years in bottle. That mature character brought out the smokiness in the kale chips, providing another delightful food pairing for the dish. Back in 2010 Anthony Gismondi suggested 2-4 more years in bottle would help the Merlot really shine, but more than five years later it’s still going strong and provided another impressive introduction to the evening.

By the time our hosts served the entrée course our inadvertent motif had become obvious: Squash, Apple, & Fennel Galette included a vegan crust made with coconut oil, accessorized by fresh Spinach Salad with avocado, citrus, and fried tofu. The wine pairings included a duo of creative red blends that favoured lighter red varieties. The JoieFarm 2013 PTG provided a blend of 55% Gamay and 45% Pinot Noir from four Naramata and Summerland vineyards. Smooth and fruit forward on the palate we detected in it underlying notes of earthy, meaty character with bacon hints that complemented the crispy, savoury tofu. From Creston’s Baillie-Grohman we also enjoyed the 2014 Récolte Rouge, a somewhat mysterious blend of most likely Pinot Noir with Merlot and Cabernet Franc backing. More smoked meat plus sweet jerk flavours emerged alongside the Galette, and the nice soft texture made it easily quaffable.

Dessert provided a few guilty pleasures in which to indulge after such a responsible meal, but yielded another surprise in the form of a delicious Cashew “Cheese” Ball! Some Smoked Boerenkaas Gouda was also on hand plus dark chocolate and tangy fruit, but the wonderfully umami-rich Cheese Ball stole the show. Of course it couldn’t do so without Elephant Island’s exciting Stellaport, made from ripe Stella Cherries and aged for more than a decade in a solera system, before this particular bottle was released in 2013. Surprisingly drier than expected the Stellaport oozed smoked cherries & chocolate, toffee, and over time an appealing savoury barbecue aroma. Nary a drop remained by evening’s end, leaving us to bid adieu relishing the rich, long-lasting flavours as we pondered new culinary memories.

Collectibles: December 2015

The end of the calendar year is usually fairly slow in terms of wine releases, as those in the industry take well-deserved vacations, or at least bide their time awaiting the icewine harvest. That being said, I was quite happy to take delivery this month of my biannual wine club shipment from Painted Rock, and spend some time picking up a handful of other singular sips. Some bottles were expressly intended to continue growing vertical collections, while others represented lucky acquisitions of hard-to-come-by rarities. In amongst the joy of gift shopping for family and friends a few treats for my future self didn’t seem over the top.

Painted Rock 2013 Syrah: Ever since the first vintage in 2007 this has been one of my favourite BC Syrah. Proprietor John Skinner likes to recount his hesitation in planting the variety until he was strongly encouraged by legendary wine writer John Schreiner. The grape sings from Skinner’s sun-soaked Skaha Bench vineyard, and the latest release of 1,622 cases should easily continue the tradition of excellence. A steady decline in the use of new oak at Painted Rock has left only 30% in such barrels (for 18 months), 80% of them French. Early reviews have praised the perfumed aroma and white peppered, dark berry flavours: Anthony Gismondi recently remarked on the beneficial aromatics of “mid-valley” Syrah such as this one in his 90-point review. Winery Direct $40

Cassini 2012 Cabernet Franc: Receiving a Lieutenant Governor’s Award in June for this dynamic Cabernet Franc must have tempted Adrian Cassini with immediate sales potential, yet it only recently came on the market. Of course, a mere 222 cases have disappeared out the door with rapidity, but a select number of retail locations received small allotments. Technically the wine contains 5% Merlot as well, aged alongside the Franc for two full years in new oak (80% French). My own recent tasting experiences agree with the many exuberant reviews, including that from Lt. Governor’s Award Judge John Schreiner, who remarked on the exquisite aroma. Icon Wines’ Liam Carrier found it to be “truly gorgeous” upon tasting in late October; well worthy of 92+ points plus a long and prosperous life in the cellar. Swirl VQA Store $35

Painted Rock 2013 Merlot: Painted Rock only produces 5,000 cases of wine per year, with the varietal Merlot serving alongside Syrah as the winery’s workhorse – combined they comprise nearly two thirds of production. From the 2013 vintage a full 1,746 cases of Merlot are soon to be released, after the same oak aging regime as the Syrah (18 months, 30% new, 80% French). Past experience has shown the Merlot to be a dark horse, taking some time to mature before showing off highly memorable character – this one in particular is a superb cellar candidate. John Schreiner suggested “five or more years” until it will blossom, with enough confidence in the brooding, concentrated texture for 92 points at present. Winery Direct $40

Stag’s Hollow 2013 Cachet No. 04: After a two year hiatus the top-tier Cachet series is joined by a fourth wine with the recent, long-awaited release of No. 04, a creative blend of 57% Petit Verdot, 37% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Exclusively winery direct at present, the price somewhat reflects desire to slowly meter out limited stock – just 117 cases were produced. That’s not to say this continuation of the series isn’t worth every penny, comparable in the eyes of Winemaker Dwight Sick to other local icon reds in the same price range. The predecessor 2010 Cachet No. 03 brought the winery a Lieutenant Governor’s Award in 2013, and No. 04 received a Gold medal at this summer’s National Wine Awards. Bottles are still hand-numbered, with mine coming in at #1339 of 1405; let’s hope Dwight kept #1 for himself! Winery Direct $69

Van Westen 2012 V: Adding the newest bottle of Rob Van Westen’s Bordeaux blend gives me a four-year vertical since the first vintage in 2009. I may open that aged example late next year when the 2013 is released, but there is no hurry as Rob’s wines are notoriously long-lived (he was mentored by Bill Eggert after all). Unlike Rob’s long-running two thirds Merlot and one third Cabernet Franc blend “Voluptuous”, the V contains five Bordeaux varieties, in this case 45% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 17% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot. The small production model is maintained however, and only 346 cases were produced, despite the solid growing season. The high quality harvest that year has left the wine with heady aromas and density of flavour, sufficient for a Silver medal at the National Wine Awards. Winery Direct $35

Sandhill 2012 Small Lots One: The Small Lots series provides a playground for Winemaker Howard Soon to drill down even further into Sandhill’s single vineyard philosophy. The “One” typically comes from the 7-acre Black Sage Bench Phantom Creek Vineyard, from which Howard obtained twenty (new American oak) barrels of an eclectic blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon (three clones), 11% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot, 9% Syrah, 3.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Merlot. The wine was originally released in February, but took longer to show up on store shelves outside the Kelowna tasting room; that being said it’s now sold out there while retail stock remains available. The “One” represents another rotating vertical collection for which I now have 2009-2012 awaiting future consumption. With four years to go until the 2016 bumps this vintage from the cellar I can provide it with sufficient time to “settle down” as Anthony Gismondi suggests. Swirl VQA Store $40

Osoyoos Larose 2011 Le Grand Vin: The newest icon red from the equally iconic Osoyoos Larose brand is the second last vintage in which original, long-serving Winemaker Pascal Madevon had a hand. After his departure (for Culmina) in January of 2013 new Winemaker Mathieu Mercer would have completed blending trials that summer to yield the final combination of 48% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The winery indicates that Cabernet Sauvignon is more dominant than in previous vintages, a surprising choice given the notoriously cool vintage conditions in 2011. The typically heavy tannins of Le Grand Vin will require time, and aging until 2021-2023 is suggested by the winery. With pleasing harmony, 2021 is precisely when I hope to add the 2017 vintage to my cellar, necessitating consumption of the 2011. Swirl VQA Store $50

December Wine Club: Return to Form

After a several-month intermission and a busy summer season of travel our wine club finally reconvened this month in what is hoped to be a more permanent fashion. Our hosts were pleased to finally accommodate us in their snug new home, with some inspired furniture reconfiguration to provide seating for seven. The upcoming holiday season and falling temperatures had inspired some cozy winter comfort foods with a pleasant burst of bright white wines to keep the mood upbeat as the longest day of the year approaches.

Having been assigned hors d’oeuvres duty my wife and I needed to bring something ready to go immediately, to assuage any hunger pangs and provide a solid base for the wines to come. Always striving for something new we elected on soft pretzels, having never before made them, and excited to do so when I came across a delicious recipe in BC Liquor Stores’ Taste Magazine. It was the Roasted Jalapeno & Beet Dip that caught my eye, and I was soon scouring my CellarTracker database for the appropriate wine pairings.

With our Smoked Salt Pretzel Sticks and Beet Dip we shared a pair of big name wines; starting with Mission Hill’s 2009 Martin’s Lane Riesling, the inaugural vintage of this limited edition series in honour of Proprietor Anthony Von Mandl’s father Martin. A few years in bottle provided us with potent petrol aromas that gave way to generous pineapple and citrus. The tropical flavours continued on the palate, where relatively low acidity and a viscous texture emphasized the wine’s Germanic roots, courtesy of consulting winemaker Fritz Hasselbach. With the spicy Jalapeno Dip plus salty blue cheese crumbled over top the off-dry Riesling made for an excellent introduction to the evening.

Another cellar selection came out to kick start the meal in the form of Osoyoos Larose 2007 Le Grand Vin, a Christmas gift from four years ago ready for its day in the sun. With the understanding some decanting would likely be necessary we deconstructed the savoury first impression. The nose provided hints of olives and dates, with some guests discerning almonds and Brandy cherries as well. The palate was certainly shedding some of the legendary Grand Vin tannins, but noticeable dusty indications remained as we tasted restrained red currants. Revisiting the bottle later in the meal showed how much it had opened up and softened, releasing more elegant textures and fruit flavour. Ultimately a touch dry to fully synchronize with the Pretzels & Dip, but the earthiness from the beets colluded nicely regardless.

Seated at the table we soon tucked in to the appetizer course. The Caramelized Onion Tart was charmingly presented with a garnish of fresh microgreens atop the rich Emmental-infused base. Our most curious wine of the evening was on hand as we were presented with a 2014 Pinot Noir from the previously unknown Black Star Vineyards. The wine showed off classic aromas of raspberry, cherry, and earthy mushrooms wafting from the glass, with similarly predictable pale ruby colouring. The smooth texture was a surprise given the recent vintage, with a pleasing flavour profile reminiscent of raspberry lemonade with hints of cloves.

Descriptors aside, we spent more time discussing the wine’s provenance than anything! None at the table had ever heard of the winery/vineyard, and the label indicated only a Lake Country origin from north of Kelowna – no contact information, virtual or otherwise, was provided. Extensive web searching that evening and later turned up no clues either, until assistance from the BC Wine Institute finally revealed the work of Ex Nihilo. The charismatic winery – visited in person last fall – recently created the Black Star label as an exclusive for western Canada Liquor Depot stores. Many restaurants and resorts are sourcing their own custom-branded wines, and it now seems the retail industry is jumping aboard as well; wine shopping could soon become an even more complicated affair!

Dining at the home of creative vegetarians ensured we would receive a delicious main course to satisfy any palate. A pair of beautiful white wines were partnered with homemade Seitan Cutlets over mashed potatoes and crisp green beans, topped with savoury Olive & Caper Picada. From Blasted Church, the newest 2014 Mixed Blessings provided aromatic intensity from 90% Viognier, 7% Ehrenfelser, and 3% Pinot Gris. There were suggestions of fresh laundry from the clean, citrus and orchard fruit nose, while the creamy palate provided additional fruit flavours accented by vanilla and even some intriguing hints of licorice.

Should the very enjoyable Viognier have not sufficed, a second bottle of intense 2014 Riesling was on hand from Kelowna’s quintessential Tantalus. Working with the tangy picada the Riesling provided substantial refreshment, wafting mouth-watering key lime pie aromas. The apple and lime palate was luscious thanks to 12 g/L of residual sugar, deftly balanced by a bracing 10 g/L of acidity. (The sought-after Old Vines version sweeps you off your feet with only half the sugar.) A mention of “limeade concentrate” was put forth as we savoured the tart finish and discussed the obvious differences from the earlier, aged Mission Hill example.

Dessert came courtesy of a late-arriving member, coming straight from an earlier engagement with an easily acceptable penance of Chocolate Bundt Cake from the acclaimed Uprising Bakery. Homemade Strawberry-Honey compote provided a touch of colour and juicy fruit, and La Frenz’s sumptuous Liqueur Muscat pulled it all together. Sipping the Muscat – from a multi-year, neutral barrel solera – encouraged a bevy of beautiful captions such as tropical toffee and orange Amaretto. This wasn’t the first bottle we have enjoyed together, and will most certainly not be the last either, as it effortlessly concludes many a wonderful evening.

Laughing Stock Syrah Vertical

Naramata Bench winery Laughing Stock is best known for their iconic red blend “Portfiolio”. Since founding the winery in 2001 owners David & Cynthia Enns have produced thousands of cases of their flagship wine, and recently celebrated the tenth vintage upon release of the 2012. However, despite the seeming focus on Bordeaux-styled reds (including the well respected second wine “Blind Trust”) the winery has wisely diversified their holdings. The Enns have in fact spent the last several years crafting one of Canada’s best Syrah since acquiring an Osoyoos vineyard in 2007.

As a member of Laughing Stock’s Preferred Share Wine Club I have been privileged to receive each vintage of Syrah since the first release of 302 cases in 2008. Latter vintages have grown in size to the several hundred cases now produced annually, but still pale in comparison to the 2,000+ cases of Portfolio snapped up each year. Despite the worthy praise for Portfolio, the Syrah has received at least as many accolades, with annual admiration that has included national Platinum and Gold medals, plus a prestigious Lieutenant Governor’s Award for Excellence in BC Wines. Having amassed six vintages from 2008 to 2013 I recently decided to share a vertical tasting of this spectacular Syrah with a small group of family and friends.

The Perfect Hedge Vineyard on the East Bench of Osoyoos Lake was planted in 2005, including nearly three acres of Syrah alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Viognier, and Malbec. By 2008 the vineyard was ready to yield a blend of 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier, released to a growing fan base in the summer of 2010. For the first release the winery went with Stelvin-sealed bottles, which has benefited the wine by this point, as we found it lively and retaining generous fruit beyond some mature savoury olive aromas. Purple fruit flavours on the finish suggested there is still life ahead for those bottles that remain securely sealed and stashed away in the cellars of collectors.

The early years of production served to establish Winemaker David Enns’ preferred technique, with whole cluster/berry Syrah complemented by crushed Viognier (4-8%) to circulate within the steel tanks and oak puncheons used for fermentation. Fourteen to 16 months of aging have become the norm, with 40% new oak most common. In the second year of production the hot and short growing season of 2009 pumped up the alcohol to 14.8%, contributing to the plummy, Porty nose we encountered. Smooth and mature under cork the wine was in fact so rich as to be considered best for after-dinner purposes, with low acidity and sweet, chocolate-cherry flavours serving to raise eyebrows around the table. Even at a young age this wine launched the series of notable medals collected thus far, receiving Gold at the 2011 Canadian Wine Awards.

Another CWA Gold medal arrived the following year, awarded to the 2010 vintage; which also received the Lieutenant Governor’s Award that summer. The relatively cool growing season was overcome with deft viticulture and a late harvest during a timely October heat wave. Despite the necessary fruit thinning production increased to 620 cases, although 18 months of aging was felt necessary, the longest of all six vintages. After three-plus years in bottle we discovered a mouth-watering wine at its peak, with aromas of savoury leather and peppered meat, and a smooth, juicy blackberry palate – an easy favourite of the tasting.

If 2010 was thought to be cool then 2011 was an even ruder surprise – late from beginning to end. While 2010 was harvested October 7th the 2011 vintage of Syrah was harvested at month’s end. Still, 760 cases came of it (despite one block being bled for the winery’s occasional Rosé), and a traditional “cool climate red” was the eventual result. On the nose the expected leather notes were paired with blueberry and sweet oak. While not as silky in texture as some of the other wines in the vertical, the refreshing acidity and cool flavours lent a certain elegance along with age-worthy optimism. The wine continued its golden streak with a medal at the 2013 National Wine Awards, and then went on to receive an esteemed Decanter Regional Trophy.

The 2012 growing season launched what has become a four-year trend of warm, high-quality vintages. Although a large yield must have been tempting, only 643 cases were eventually produced, keeping the focus on quality over quantity. The careful crop management, flawless summer, and maturing vineyard combined to yield one of the fourteen Platinum medals awarded at the 2014 Nationals (including three for BC Syrah). We were struck by the intensity present upon tasting, with dark, luxurious flavours of cherries and licorice under the smoky, spicy nose. The serious character was deemed well worthy of further aging, with the expectation it will continue to improve over time.

Given the requisite 14+ months of aging, plus time to recover from bottling, Laughing Stock typically release their Syrah mid-year, putting us in the middle of the schedule at present. Stocks of the most recent 2013 may thus start to run low soon, despite a relatively bountiful 820 cases released earlier this year. A Gold medal (and great company) at the 2015 Nationals in late summer was practically expected at this point, and obviously well deserved. Sampled first, alongside a spread of flavourful food, it oozed charisma with bountiful aromas of fresh black cherry, licorice, pepper, and bacon. The lip-smacking palate was beautiful paired with dark chocolate, and a popular crowd favourite even by the end of the tasting.

I would be remiss not to mention the ripe and luscious whites we also enjoyed both before and after. Laughing Stock’s Osoyoos vineyard yields generous Viognier as well, with the 2014 providing flavours that span the spectrum of citrus, orchard, and tropical fruit in this ideal Syrah companion. To mark the special occasion I even cracked open the winery’s rare (162 cases) 2014 Amphora Viognier Roussanne, an experimental “hands-off” wine made in tribute to ancient methods. The project saw whole berry Osoyoos Viognier and Black Sage Bench Roussanne naturally fermented together over two and a half months in a pair of Italian clay amphora. The result is intriguing and striking, with rich aromas of apple sauce and peach pie atop a salted caramel palate plus a touch of thought-provoking light oxidation and even mild tannin.

Reflecting on the entire flight of Syrah it was apparent that all had strengths, with near universal satisfaction. It was challenging to rank order all six vintages, but in the end some rose to the top a bit more readily, providing greater enjoyment at present:

First Place – 2010: perfectly aged and balanced, seemingly at peak, but no rapid decline expected. Second Place – 2013: fresh and expressive, complex character with great future potential as well. Third Place – 2008: pleasing maturity with ripe fruit, lively given age thanks to Stelvin cap. Fourth Place – 2011: elegant and refreshing, will age for some time as a result of cool vintage acidity. Fifth Place – 2012: luxurious intensity, brooding seriousness, but needs time for excellence to emerge. Sixth Place – 2009: mature, very rich from a hot vintage, but almost too much so, sweet and hot.

My own stocks are now reduced to those vintages from 2011 onward, but that should serve to provide some delicious future opportunities given what was learned. With what should be sublime 2014 and 2015 vintages still in barrel at Laughing Stock, I look forward to much more enjoyment of what has fast become a benchmark Canadian Syrah.

Collectibles: November 2015

Given my participation in a great many local wine clubs hardly a month goes by without the arrival of some exciting new bottles. This month saw my second shipment received since joining Poplar Grove’s club, along with Moon Curser’s final package of the year, and my highly anticipated annual case from Blue Mountain. In fact, with the addition of a couple small orders from Burrowing Owl and Stag’s Hollow every bottle in this month’s collectibles list was acquired directly from the wineries in question. Increasingly, the finest and most interesting wines seem to be available solely through direct sales, necessitating keen attention to release dates and details.

Blue Mountain 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir: One of the most famous and legendary Pinot Noir in BC, and consistently amongst the very best. My recent case of wines from the Blue Mountain Priority Group contained this delightful blend of five French clones, from an ideal vintage. The Priority Group program assembles one’s favoured wines over the course of the year and ships when the case is ready: unfortunately the popular Reserve Pinot is long since sold out at the winery, as happens every year. When released in August it had spent two years maturing in bottle following ten months in French oak barrels after fermentation with fully native yeast. Winery Direct $40

Stag’s Hollow 2014 Renaissance Grenache: Only six months ago I was fortunate enough to obtain the 2013 Grenache from my local VQA store. It can actually still be found on the shelf there, but the newest release will likely remain winery exclusive. Winemaker Dwight Sick considers the 2014 to be his best Grenache yet, deserving of the exclusive “Renaissance” reserve-tier label. Careful selection and painstaking techniques have yielded a mere 65 cases however, so it will be short-lived. Released on International Grenache Day (the third Friday in September), it then received enthusiastic praise from John Schreiner, having “totally seduced him” into a rare 94-point score. Winery Direct $40

Poplar Grove 2011 Malbec: Consumer appreciation for Malbec is pushing more BC wineries to release single varietal wines from grapes previously blended into Meritage. As more winemakers are learning the intricacies and expression of Malbec on its own it can only lead to higher quality local examples. Poplar Grove first produced a 2009 Malbec and has now released a small lot (250 cases) from the 2011 vintage, exclusively to members of their Wine Club (at present). It should be interesting to see what the cool 2011 season has offered Poplar Grove, who socked it away for 21 months in French oak and then another 18 months in bottle. A drab of 6% Merlot was added to flesh out the wine, said to yield a long finish of cherries, mulberry, and prune after the nose of violets, caramel, and blueberry. Winery Direct $35

Moon Curser 2013 Contraband Series Malbec: A new release included in my latest Wine Club shipment, from a limited production of 290 cases. The 2013 Malbec has been elevated to the winery’s Contraband Series to reflect the single-vineyard nature of the wine, harvested from a single block in the Osoyoos East Bench estate vineyards (and aged in French oak, 25% new). From the warm and generous 2013 vintage I’m expecting a full-bodied, ripe and plush example, reflecting Winemaker Chris Tolley’s growing experience with the variety – past vintages have received solid accolades and competition success. Winery Direct $32

Poplar Grove 2012 Munson Mountain Cabernet Franc: Poplar Grove goes to great lengths in offering value for Wine Club members, with at least several exclusive wines produced each year. The home vineyard on Munson Mountain outside Penticton yields high quality Cabernet Franc that has ended up in a small lot, single-vineyard bottling since 2010 (after being planted in 2008). The winery is very pleased with the results from 2012’s “fantastic growing season” and this Cabernet Franc should help provide the proof, with mouth-watering “hearty flavours of black cherry and cassis married with hints of almond and strawberry jam.” It was harvested very last, in early November, and given 21 months in French oak, plus additional bottle time before release. Winery Direct $40

Burrowing Owl 2013 Athene: Seeing as I picked up the 2012 Athene at retail in April the 2013 may have been released a little early given growing demand, helped along by three fewer months in oak (18 versus 21 for the 2012 vintage). The blend remains virtually identical at 52% Syrah and 48% Cabernet Sauvignon co-fermented and aged, with American oak avoided entirely this time in place of 90% French and 10% Hungarian. The winery speaks of near-perfect conditions in 2013, yielding all the best flavour profiles of each grape: blackberry, sage, cinnamon, pepper, cassis, black cherry, and more! The well balanced acidity and full bodied ripe tannins should provide for a long and healthy life. Winery Direct $38

Poplar Grove 2011 The Legacy: The third red included in this fall’s Wine Club packages, The Legacy is Poplar Grove’s icon red blend, with varying proportions of the Bordeaux varieties each year. For 2011 it includes 43% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Franc, 13% Malbec, and a mere 3% Cabernet Sauvignon – a substantial drop from the 23% found in 2010, which also had twice as much Malbec and half as much Cabernet Franc. The 2010 was just released earlier this year, but the winery is moving to a four-year release schedule for the Legacy, instead of the previous cumbersome five-year delay: further details from Winemaker Stefan Arnason accompany John Schreiner’s enthusiastic 94-point review. Both vintages yielded small production quantities and will sell quickly leading up to the highly anticipated 2012: 350 cases of 2010 and 550 of 2011. Winery Direct $50

Burrowing Owl 2012 Meritage: One of my favourite things about Burrowing Owl (after the delicious wines) is their willingness to ship as few as two bottles. You have to pay the same $20 shipping rate for 2, 4, 6, or 12 bottles, but it provides flexibility given staggered release dates. With the Athene I also obtained the brand new Meritage, a wine I have been eagerly awaiting in order to continue an established vertical collection; adding the 2012 allows me to finally open the 2006, which likely recently peaked. The 2012 continues using successful proportions that favour Cabernet Franc (43%) and Merlot (28%), yielding a ripe, fruit forward profile that has increasingly impressed critics such as Anthony Gismondi. Into the cellar it goes until bumped out by the 2018 vintage released in six years! Winery Direct $45